Suggestions before walls are finished

[wmonroe]

I am getting ready to wire, plumb, insulate, etc in my garage. What suggestions do you guys have that I might be forgetting before I close my walls in? I am going to run some piping for air from the compressor.
What else? You guys always have great ideas.

Will

 

[5wndwcpe]

Outlets on the exterior walls
Seperate line for outlets in the soffits ( lights)
Conduit in the walls for low voltage stuff (CAT 5, speaker wire,cable)

 

[Alcohol]

Don't forget phone and cable tv wires...

 

[Skinny_Blinky]

Don't forget phone and cable tv wires...

Two or three of each. I promise that you'll want an extra cable to junction off of somewhere down the road. I did not get enough cabling in the garage with single lines.

 

[Skinny_Blinky]

Conduit in the walls for low voltage stuff (CAT 5, speaker wire,cable)

That too...

 

[rodnok1]

Put a water faucet by the overhead doors. Hopefully you have lots of outlets planned in walls and ceiling.

 

[wmonroe]

All sound like great ideas. I think i'll get some 1/2" black (outdoor) water line for the conduit. It comes in 100' rolls and is pretty cheap.
Keep the ideas coming.

Will

 

[5wndwcpe]

Put a water faucet by the overhead doors. Hopefully you have lots of outlets planned in walls and ceiling.

Run hot and cold to the faucet while you're at it.

 

[wmonroe]

Definately planning on lots of receptacles, 2 gang box every 4'. The water faucet (hot and cold) by the overhead doors is a good idea. I haven't drawn a final plumbing plan yet, but that will be in it.
Will

 

[daddylama]

All sound like great ideas. I think i'll get some 1/2" black (outdoor) water line for the conduit. It comes in 100' rolls and is pretty cheap.
Keep the ideas coming.

Will

i used the black poly for conduit in an auxiliary building, just for low-voltage stuff... got slammed by an inspector during a surprise inspection, for it. had to pull it ALL out, and re-expose the recently covered walls to show them that there was none there. held up the project for about 2 weeks. clients were luckily very cool with the whole thing, though.

if you're in an area that has ******** inspectors, or something along those lines... might wanna look into the legality of using it inside walls.
this was in los angeles... where things can get a bit strict from time to time.

now, in portland.... i'm using the stuff in my house for low-voltage. nobody cares here, plus $19 for 100' makes me happy.

 

[wmonroe]

The inspectors here are ok with it as long as it is used for low voltage. The other thing I have going for me is that I will have my final inspection this week before I start the finish work inside. I had a hard time getting a building permit (garage had to go in front yard) but once I had the permit and met the local inspector I realized inspections weren't going to be a big deal. He is how inspectors should be, he makes sure everything is built properly but isn't **** about "stupid stuff".
Will

 

[daddylama]

i've had an inspector say "look son, don't piss me off because it doesn't have to go well for you"... when i asked why we couldn't pour 8' deep footings in a single pour (really, i was just curious)

and the opposite end of the spectrum with one inspector i got quite a few times... "hey, this is a cool house! looks good, take care!" as he was in and out in 5 minutes, signed off and everything.

so far the inspectors here are cool, but i don't have a lot of experience with permitting things in this town, yet.

 

[drmarkr]

Extra #6 for 220 to a couple of spots where you might weld? Can always blank it for later.

Plumb a wall mounted urinal in a corner. You can add some side panels and you won't have to go in the house or out to the yard to take a leak!

Lots of stubs for compressed air. Even a couple from the ceiling where you'll want pull down lines (I forgot these on my build).

Extra backers anywhere you think you might want wall cabinets....it's nice to have some good support beyond the studs themselves. I used some 2x6 cutoffs that were laying around for this.

Three way switches for lighting so you can get the lights coming/going.

After you get everything installed, take a sheitload of digital pics before you go up with the rock.

I pulled my speaker wire up high where I wound up mounting the things, and back to the bench area where the stereo lives.

Good luck and post up some pics of your progress.

MR

 

[oldgoat]

The pictures are a good idea. Took pictures of my wiring and the like, but then they got deleted before I got around to puting them on the computer.

 

[PAToyota]

Lots of stubs for compressed air. Even a couple from the ceiling where you'll want pull down lines (I forgot these on my build).

It has been discussed in the air piping thread, but I wouldn't put airlines in the walls.

 

[boiler7904]

If you take 5wndwcpe's advice on the christmas lights - put those receptacles on a switch or timer device.

A couple of conduit stubs from the top of the power panel to the attic or other accessible space to make running extra circuits later easier.

Consider using a media distribution cabinet if you plan on running phone / tv / internet / speakers. The production home builder that did my house uses this small Leviton Structured Media Center as a standard item in the homes they build. This cabinet accepts a various blocks for media distribution. Makes for running additional lines a lot easier. If I had my choice, I'd go with a series 280 since it twice the size. The Home Depot store around the corner from me carries individual components as well as starter kits that you can add on to.

Wood blocking / backing for cabinets, shelves, and anything else that gets mounted to the walls or ceiling.

Caulk the joint between the bottom plate and the slab or stem wall. You'd be amazed at how much air you can get moving through that joint - especially important if you're heating the space.

I'd also take photos or a narrated video of every wall before it gets closed up so you have a good idea of where things are when you go to add things later.

 

[wmonroe]

PaToyota- I did a search and read a few of the threads about running the air lines in the walls. The biggest issue I see is the risk of them being punctured. If I run everything in black iron pipe does that solve the issue or am I still better off leaving them exposed?

I'm starting to get excited about getting this all done and enjoying it (actuall already enjoying it).

Will

 

[wmonroe]

The wooden block for where I am going to build wall cabinets is a great idea. I also am going to run some extra conduit out of the panel for future wiring. No need for the urinal as one corner is going to have a small bathroom. I was think about mounting a shower head close to my floor drains -just in case. I would put it pretty high so that it wouldnt get ripped off. Not sure on that one yet but you never know when I might need to hide out for a couple days from the wife. I still have to decide where I am putting the air compressor and where the welder will go. I have pics of all the progress so far but need to get them organized. Before I cover the walls though I will get ALOT of pics as they may be invaluable down the road. Thanks for all the great suggestions and keep them coming.

Will

 

[PAToyota]

Others may feel differently, but I'm more for keeping high pressure lines exposed - unless you are going to use PVC (God forbid!) in which case you'd want them shielded with something...

 

[boiler7904]

I'm with PA on leaving air lines exposed. Lines under pressure always seem to have a problem once they get buried in the wall. In commercial construction projects, we typically leave them exposed and paint them. Makes for easy repairs and additions to the system later on.

 

[wmonroe]

I'll leave the air lines exposed since I don't want to have to get into the walls if (when) I have a leak. Still going to do them in black iron though, I like the extra strength, durability (safety) it provides.
Will

 

[timgr]

Regarding the shower, chemistry labs always have a shower and eye-wash station near a floor drain - something like that could come in useful, depending on what you plan to do in your garage. Might not be the most practical for showering though, and constant use would damage the building, I'd think.

A 36x36 one-piece stall shower is inexpensive, probably cheaper than the emergency shower, and easy to install. Plus then you could claim an additional full bath, if you ever sell the house. If I had a bath in the garage, I'd add a little office too, with room for a cot, bookshelves, and a desk.

 

[5wndwcpe]

It has been discussed in the air piping thread, but I wouldn't put airlines in the walls.

I wholeheartedly agree. Besides the obvious trouble in locating a leak, if you decided at a later date to "rearrange" the garage or determine that you need additional feeds, it'll be hell trying to cut and rethread the blackpipe within the wall cavity.

 

[Aceman]

I wholeheartedly agree. Besides the obvious trouble in locating a leak, if you decided at a later date to "rearrange" the garage or determine that you need additional feeds, it'll be hell trying to cut and rethread the blackpipe within the wall cavity.

Not to mention having to cut and thread a zillion 30" long pipe stubs to fit in the stud bays. It uses a ton of couplings and all the extra threading required......your bound to have an air leak. Seems like a very good reason to run threaded pipe exposed.

 

[wmonroe]

I have my lighting pretty much figured out, and where receptacles are going to go. The things that are giving me problems now are compressor and welder. I don't have either right now nor are they in the budget yet but I want to wire for them. The welder will be either a stick or a mig. Would #6-2 work?
For the compressor I want to eventually get a 60 gal about 7 hp. Would #8-2 be adequate or do I need to go to #6?
Thanks
Will

 

[rodnok1]

You can't figure wire size without amps/length of run/110/220. If you know where you want the outlets put in conduit/boxes and leave them empty.

 

[wmonroe]

The run to the welder will only be about 6-8'. The run to the compressor will be a little longer at about 45-50'.
Will

 

[PAToyota]

Franz just posted a voltage drop calculator the other day. Plug in all the numbers and then increase the wire size until you have the required voltage at the end of the circuit. Cross check that with the NEC to make sure they don't require larger and you are good to go.

 

[wmonroe]

PAToyota-Thanks. I looked up the thread and I think it answered my questions.
Will