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Suggestions for adjustable feet ... 8' bar

jproaster

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Aug 26, 2018
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170
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SE Tennessee
Welding some 1.5" square tubing (OD) as the frame for a 8' wood top bar...tall seating with coffee, etc. The legs at each end of the bar (1/end) come down centered on a 10" horizontal tube that I figure I'll insert an adjustable foot about 1" from each end.

Can I tap the 1/8" steel tubing?

Thanks.

John
 
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jproaster

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Aug 26, 2018
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170
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SE Tennessee
I have not chosen any hardware yet.
Still being quite the noob in fab work, I thought I'd get other's thoughts.

John
 
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Kenstone1

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Oct 2, 2015
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I use T-Nuts
Cut the barbs off, drill a hole big enough to put the threaded part up-into the leg.
Push the T-nut into that hole and tack weld the flange where you cut off the barbs...done.
 

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dogdog

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Nov 15, 2011
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12,711
dependents on the load... That bung nut would be the best. just keep in mind buy it for the bolts you use... if you decide on the caster some of them are metric nuts.

I just cut a 1/4" thick square and drill center and drill and tap the hole with the thread the same as the stem I will be using.. M10 M12 or 3/8 1/2 what nots... and weld the nut on the other side (the side that will be inside the hollow square tube. also for more strength..

then weld it to the bottom of the square tube...
 

MoonRise

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Nov 5, 2010
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Location
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Just tapping some 1/8" wall steel will not really give you enough threads (number of threads in the material) for an 'appropriate' size (diameter) of threaded item for this situation IMNSHO.

You usually want at LEAST three full threads in something, five threads is a better minimum to aim for. Which usually works out to be about the diameter of the thread that you are using.

ex: 1/2-13 threads You want five full threads, that means you need a thickness of (5 threads) / (13 threads/inch ) = .385 inch thick material needed. Close to the 1/2 inch thread diameter.

3/8-16 threads : (5 threads) / (16 threads/inch) = .3125 inch thick material needed. Again, pretty close to the 3/8 inch thread diameter (just 1/16 less :lol: )

Same with metric threads, just different math (because of the way the threads are called out).

M10 x 1.5 : (5 threads) x (1.5 mm / thread) = 7.5 mm material thickness needed. Again close to the original 10mm thread diameter.

You have an 8 ft long bar/countertop. Figure that sometime SOMEONE is going to get up on that counter, could be more than one person. Could be you standing up on it to change a light bulb or swat a fly, could be several folks being rowdy, could be the bar from Coyote Ugly. :lol_hitti

So figure that the counter/bar has to be able to support several hundred pounds SAFELY. 8 ft long top could rather easily fit 4 adults on it, let's do a SWAG of 4 people x 250 lb/person = 1000 lbs up on top of the bar. Plus the weight of the bar itself.

Use enough strength in your feet and attachment method to safely and easily support that load. It doesn't have to fly or race, so make it PlentyStrong.

You can weld a nut to your frame to get the threads, you can weld a plate of the appropriate thickness to the frame and drill and tap threads into that, you can (maybe) put a rivnut in, you can weld a threaded bung in, etc, more than one way to Git'r Done. :D

Make it PlentyStrong though.

Restaurant or other 'commercial' type of space, I'd probably go for MINIMUM 1/2" or M12 threads for a threaded adjustable foot pad (thread with a foot pad on the end). Heck, IIRC my washing machines or clothes dryer usually have about 1/2" diameter adjustable threaded feet on them for leveling. You want at least that strong or better IMNSHO.

:beer:
 

dogdog

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Joined
Nov 15, 2011
Messages
12,711
dependents on the load... That bung nut would be the best. just keep in mind buy it for the bolts you use... if you decide on the caster some of them are metric nuts.

I just cut a 1/4" thick square and drill center and drill and tap the hole with the thread the same as the stem I will be using.. M10 M12 or 3/8 1/2 what nots... and weld the nut on the other side (the side that will be inside the hollow square tube. also for more strength..

then weld it to the bottom of the square tube...

I usually add a welded nut on the other end. since I don't have a lathe to cut a shoulder off a nut or coupling (the longer nut).
 
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