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Suggestions for Concrete Pour

AudiS4

Member
Joined
Jan 24, 2010
Messages
9
I wanted to hear people's opinion on the best way to do a concrete pour for my garage.

Background-I just recently purchased a home and with it was a detached 2 car garage. Unfortunately there is only crushed stone inside. The last homeowner just used concrete for the post's on the inside.

Dimensions-
Garage
24X22
2X6 Running along the bottom of the garage into the ground.

I have heard Alaskan/Floating Slab would be the best for this scenario

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BoostedOne

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 4, 2010
Messages
117
Location
Osteen, Fl
Wow, lookin at the framing I guess yall dont get much wind up there?

They really put the wood framing right on the grade? Wow. I would think the wood rot from moisture would be a real issue with that??? I was always told you dont want your wood within 6" of the grade, and even thats no garuntee especially without gutters.
 

mobetta

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Joined
Feb 10, 2010
Messages
370
Location
twin cities, mn
that is a pressure treated grade board and the building is post frame, just what I'd expect to see, so dont let boostedone get you worried.

I'd pour a 4" slab, make sure you are above the surrounding grade by an inch or 2. it looks like you'll need to remove a bit of that fill.

if you havent done much flat work, and you want a nice smooth finish I would hire out the actual placing of the concrete, but I bet you could do most of the grunt work- grading and fill removal.
 

rburke65

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Nov 10, 2007
Messages
12,349
Location
Canfield, Ohio
When you said..."I have heard Alaskan/Floating Slab would be the best for this scenario"...By this are we to assume that you are in Alaska? As always, a location is helpful! Thanks.
 
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rburke65

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Joined
Nov 10, 2007
Messages
12,349
Location
Canfield, Ohio
Well, like mobetta said, take your exterior grade into consideration....don't want to be lower than the outside and have a garage full of water. Place Visqueen or other type product of plastis sheeting under the concrete for a vapor barrier. Wire mesh or rebar in the concrete as per local codes or desires. Any other questions....this is a good place to ask.
 

BoostedOne

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 4, 2010
Messages
117
Location
Osteen, Fl
that is a pressure treated grade board and the building is post frame, just what I'd expect to see, so dont let boostedone get you worried.

I guess.. On the framing I said "I guess yall dont get much wind".. If not great.. If he did, he would end up with a handful of post sticking out of the ground after a good wind event. Those walls have little to no strength against wind.

PT or not, it still rots sitting in the dirt. PT just takes longer. My house has two decks that the previous owner made out of PT studs, and after 5 years alot of them are tore up. Most people who expose wood to water expect it to rot, and they use PT because it just takes longer before you have to replace it..

If it was my shop, I would take the time to excavate down a little deeper, and attach the form boards to the outside of the poles and keep the wood out of the dirt.
 
OP
A

AudiS4

Member
Joined
Jan 24, 2010
Messages
9
there is no frost wall should I expect a lot of cracking if i was to just pour a 4" slab?
 
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