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Suggestions for Lights 18'x20' Two Car

Joined
Nov 23, 2013
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Looking for suggestions on how to arrange T8 fixtures and how many. Most of my work will be around the bike repair stand, but would also work on the vehicles.

The drawing shows the garage doors in the up position. I think my best bet for this section is to put a T8 fixture between the garage doors and one on each side along the wall.

Just so it's clear, the 20' 8" dimension is the entire depth of the garage and the 8' 4" dimension is the depth of the garage that the open garage doors cover.

Other info:
Will paint walls high gloss white. Floor might be Racedeck, maybe high gloss. Ceilings are low, 9' 4". Drawing is not proportional/to scale.
 

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2ManyProjects

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Looking for suggestions on how to arrange T8 fixtures and how many.

Fundamentally the same question has been asked -- and answered -- at least a dozen times within the last month or so. You would do well to review the prior art.

Most of my work will be around the bike repair stand, but would also work on the vehicles.

So, if necessary (which it probably won't be, if you do everything else right), add one extra twin-tube fixture directly over the bike stand. Otherwise, the standard approach will work just fine:

The drawing shows the garage doors in the up position. I think my best bet for this section is to put a T8 fixture between the garage doors and one on each side along the wall.

Make that a ROW of T8 fixtures on each side, and a third row between the parking bays. Figure at least three (twin-tube) fixtures per row, with gaps of about a foot between each fixture; but you have room for four (butted tight end-to-end) if you want it extra-bright. Either way, start these runs about a foot inside the front wall. Then add a fourth row (of, again three or four fixtures; I'd use four) running crossways across the rear of the garage. Place this row approximately halfway between where the others end and the back wall; but in no case less than about two feet off that back wall.

Just so it's clear, the 20' 8" dimension is the entire depth of the garage and the 8' 4" dimension is the depth of the garage that the open garage doors cover.

I got that. But how much space are you counting on between the bumpers of those parked cars, and your workbench, toolchest, etc.? It doesn't look like much.

Other info:
Will paint walls high gloss white. Floor might be Racedeck, maybe high gloss. Ceilings are low, 9' 4".

Which means you'll want to use either open-tube or (preferably) "wrap" fixtures, mounted directly to the ceiling.

Drawing is not proportional/to scale.

Kind'a got that, too. ;)

 
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OP
T
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I have seen the other threads similar to mine since I lurked here a while to learn before posting. Every garage is different and I just want to do it righ the first time.

The work bench is so far the deepest item on the back wall at 23". Enough room to walk but for most work I will just move the cars and have the garage doors open anyway.

I like the 3 rows with a singlecross row at the back plan. Thanks.
 

ForceFed70

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You haven't listed your location, but you may have to consider outside temps when selecting fluorescents..


Unless he's way up north that won't be a problem with a modern T8 ballast/fixture. I'm in Canada and my T8 fixtures have always lit almost instantly but can take 5 seconds or so to reach full intensity when temps are very low. By full intensity I mean they light instantly at approx. 75% output then take approx 5 seconds to hit 100%.
 

Jagmandave

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My garage layout is very similar and I recently added three new fixtures, each next to and parallel to the garage door tracks, it really made that end of the garage brighter and helps when working on the back end of the car.....I drive a MINI so there's room to work on it in a small garage tho.

I don't think one light over the bike stand is enough, you'll be working in shadows some of the time, I prefer one to either side of it.....

Fixtures are not that expensive, good ones run $20 at Home Depot, my attitude is you can't have too much lighting, but you can easily have not enough and you can always turn some off if you don't need them.
 
OP
T
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I'm getting ready to buy the fixtures and bulbs... since I made the original post, I've hung 3 kayaks on the ceiling, above the 2 garage doors. This, plus the garage door brackets limit what I can put in the first half.

Here's what I've come up with:
  • 4x 8 foot (running perpendicular at the back half)
  • 9x 4 foot

The first half above the garage doors is basically my only option there, which is fine since I will only have to work back there maybe 15% of the time (should I bother putting theses on their own switch?).

How does the front half look? Too much light, not enough? Should I leave the 3x 4 footers out and just start with the 4x 8 foot fixtures to see what that gets me?
 

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OP
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I did the lumens/sq foot calculation... I think I'll start with this plan but remove the 2 8 foot fixtures at the back for now. This puts me between 150-200 lumens per foot with 28 bulbs. 34 bulbs puts me well over 200 lumens/foot.

Edit. Just realized I can just do continuous 8 foot runs. So to start I will do 3 rows of two 8 foots in tandem. I can add some 4 foots perpendicular later if needed.
 
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2ManyProjects

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I'm getting ready to buy the fixtures and bulbs... since I made the original post, I've hung 3 kayaks on the ceiling, above the 2 garage doors. This, plus the garage door brackets limit what I can put in the first half.

Here's what I've come up with:
  • 4x 8 foot (running perpendicular at the back half)
  • 9x 4 foot

If you stick with four-foot (twin tube) fixtures throughout, you will gain significant flexibility in terms of both placement AND (especially) switching. For a space as small as yours, you won't "save" enough installation cost/complexity by using eight-foot tandems to make it worth sacrificing that flexibility, IMCO. You can always **** two four-foot fixtures together to effectively form an eight-foot tandem, if/when appropriate.

The first half above the garage doors is basically my only option there, which is fine since I will only have to work back there maybe 15% of the time (should I bother putting theses on their own switch?).

Surely there must be SOME way to move the "outer" fixtures closer to the walls, so that they will not be completely blocked (hence, useless) by the (open) doors?

How does the front half look? Too much light, not enough? Should I leave the 3x 4 footers out and just start with the 4x 8 foot fixtures to see what that gets me?

Which "half" are you calling the "front"? By my usual dictionary, that would be the area nearest the overhead doors, which we just discussed. But I'm gathering from context that you REALLY mean the "back" half of the garage. In which case...

I would make the three free-standing 4-foot fixtures in the middle of the space (i.e., adjacent to your "20' 8"" notation) part (a continuation, really) of the aforementioned runs on each side of the overhead doors. This will probably in effect move them somewhat closer to those "overhead door" end of the garage; but that's OK.

The two "crossways" runs are more-or-less OK, except that I'd make them up from all four-foot fixtures, mostly for switching flexibility. The rear-most one should be kept approximately 2-3 feet off the wall, so as to do an adequate job of lighting up the cabinets, shelving, etc., ON that wall. In turn, I might move the the other crossways run a bit closer to the overhead doors than you are currently showing.

The three "fore/aft" fixtures BETWEEN those two crossways runs are probably not needed.

I did the lumens/sq foot calculation...

And you were shocked by how high it came out, right? That's one of the reasons you want to use four-foot fixtures, exclusively, so you can better manage how much light (and how much electricity) you're using at any given moment.

This is also a very pertinent object lessone for ANYONE with a relatively low garage ceiling: By the time you get the lights laid out to provide passably even coverage, you're inevitably going to have WAY more than "enough" light, en toto.

I think I'll start with this plan but remove the 2 8 foot fixtures at the back for now.

That would be a mistake.

As mentioned above, you NEED that crossways run in order to light up the cabinets, shelving, etc., ON that wall.

This puts me between 150-200 lumens per foot with 28 bulbs. 34 bulbs puts me well over 200 lumens/foot.

I may be misunderstanding your diagram; but I think your tube count is "off".

Assuming each of the three "fore/aft" runs adjacent to the overhead doors are comprised of six tubes (i.e. three four-foot fixtures, spaced fairly closely end-to-end, but NOT butted tight together), that's 18 tubes total.

Each of the two "crossways" runs would presumably comprise 8 tubes (i.e., four four-foot fixtures, which WOULD be butted tight to each other, end-to-end); so that's another 16 tubes, bringing the total (so far) to 34.

IF you keep the three free-standing "fore/aft" fixtures near the rear of the space (which, as mentioned, I really don't think you need, but...), that's another six tubes, for a grand total of 40.

Edit. Just realized I can just do continuous 8 foot runs. So to start I will do 3 rows of two 8 foots in tandem. I can add some 4 foots perpendicular later if needed.

I'm really not sure what you're driving at here. But no matter how I try to parse that paragraph, it comes out as "undesirable", compared to what I described above.

 

rocco

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3 rows of 2 x 8ft fixtures in tandem with some lights for the bench along the backside.

like this:
 

Cannonball

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Alberta, Canada Eh!
Hi Rocco.
What program is that to do the light calc?
Have a similar size just 24' deep so would add an extra 4' bank.
Will the program allow me to put 3 or 4 halogen lights down the centre and show the coverage?
The ceiling is 4/12 vaulted inside so will the program take that into account?
Thanks and sorry for the hijack.
 

rocco

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Hi Rocco.
What program is that to do the light calc?
Have a similar size just 24' deep so would add an extra 4' bank.
Will the program allow me to put 3 or 4 halogen lights down the centre and show the coverage?
The ceiling is 4/12 vaulted inside so will the program take that into account?
Thanks and sorry for the hijack.

yes it will, but I'm using the full blown professional program.
The layout I just did gives around 25% more light than the IES calls for so a few additional halogen lights won't add much light, if you're using them as night lights or walkthrough lights they will do just fine. Look at using LED lamps or actual LED downlights instead, no lamp changes.
 

2ManyProjects

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3 rows of 2 x 8ft fixtures in tandem with some lights for the bench along the backside.

like this:
{image deleted}

Sweet! This is exactly what I'm doing and what I already purchased the other day. Thanks.

That's too bad. You have the right basic layout (subject to some minor "tweaking") here; but you bought the wrong fixtures.

As repeatedly noted above, using 8-foot fixtures severely limits your switching flexibility; which means, in practice, you'll wind up running more lights than you really need much of the time, just in order to get the ones you DO need to light up.

The primary "tweak" alluded to above is to move that crossways run at the rear a bit further from the wall, so it can do a decent job of lighting up the stuff ON that wall.

 

rocco

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Moncton N.B
That's too bad. You have the right basic layout (subject to some minor "tweaking") here; but you bought the wrong fixtures.

As repeatedly noted above, using 8-foot fixtures severely limits your switching flexibility; which means, in practice, you'll wind up running more lights than you really need much of the time, just in order to get the ones you DO need to light up.

The primary "tweak" alluded to above is to move that crossways run at the rear a bit further from the wall, so it can do a decent job of lighting up the stuff ON that wall.


how's that, you can run a multi ballast 8ft fixture and incur less cost on purchase and install.
 
OP
T
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I think I decided I don't need any switching. The garage is pretty small. Yes, if I have the garage doors up, 2 of the 8 foot lamps will be mostly blocked. But, if I'm working in there I will probably have one door open for ventilation. So only 1 8 foot lamp blocked, not worth switching that.

Anyways, thanks for all the suggestions here. I think I have a solid plan that will work for me. I'll throw up some pictures when the lighting is up. Big plans for the rest of the garage over the next few weeks. When that's done maybe I'll share the complete build.
 
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