Suggestions needed on best size garage within town limits.

[wrxr7]

Hi everyone. First post here.

The time has come to tear down my current one car garage and build a new detached garage. I would like to ask for suggestions for the best size garage that is within my town's restrictions.

I'm only doing this once, so I would like to build the biggest garage I can. I would like to plan on a lift as well, both for working on my vehicles as well as for an extra parking spot.

I live in a suburban neighborhood that has the following restrictions on garages:

- no larger than 860 sq ft
- no higher than 15'
- no one side can be longer than 40'

I will have no problems with being too close to property lines, and would like to avoid variances if I can help it.

Given these restrictions, what size garage would you suggest? I was thinking 24'x36', which would be 864 sq ft (not sure how to deal with the extra 4'), but would wider be better? I'd like to get as close to 860 sq ft as possible.

Also, realizing that I have a choice in truss designs, would the 15' height limit prevent me from having a lift?

Thanks!

 

[Cyberbear]

From your description, I believe you've answered all your own questions. Since you know your local limitations, simply go as large as you can afford and then you'll know you've done all you can. Find a lift that gives you what you require to work on your cars.
Also, look into having a garage but with a carport on the side, or a storage building, workshop, etc. Sometimes what you call it on the plans can make a difference. Often it's about what it's used for will determine what you may have.

 

[readhead]

Adjust the dimensions to get the maximum square footage. Don't use trusses. Use a structural ridge and rafters. A lot of buildings were built before trusses were invented.

 

[DonPowers]

Adjust the dimensions to get the maximum square footage. Don't use trusses. Use a structural ridge and rafters. A lot of buildings were built before trusses were invented.

Wouldn't you still need collar ties to keep the walls from spreading?

You might be able to get more height with a scissor truss.

 

[DonPowers]

Just looked at your location, you must get lots of lake effect snow. Do your local restrictions allow metal roofs? If so you could go with higher walls and less pitch and still be able to shed snow.

 

[Keel]

ok that's the rules for a garage, do they have a set of rules for a barn.. ?
one word (garage or barn) and a type of door, can make a big difference in sizing..
just a thought, at beating them at their own game

 

[wrxr7]

Just looked at your location, you must get lots of lake effect snow. Do your local restrictions allow metal roofs? If so you could go with higher walls and less pitch and still be able to shed snow.

Living just to the north of Buffalo, we definitely get our share of snow. Not as much as they get to the south of the city (7 feet in one storm in November of last year!), but more than enough. Being that we will probably be needing a roof on our house in the next year or so, I would definitely be interested in looking into a metal roof. A quick look at the codes does not show any restrictions to metal roofs.

ok that's the rules for a garage, do they have a set of rules for a barn.. ?
one word (garage or barn) and a type of door, can make a big difference in sizing..
just a thought, at beating them at their own game

Good thought, but unfortunately a barn would look very, very out of place in my neighborhood.


Would it be wise to have odd dimensions just to get closer to the 860 sq ft limit? Would using odd dimensions incur a significant increase in building cost?

Thank you for all of the responses so far.

 

[slow]

cut a 2 by 2 section out of one of the corners but keep the roof overhang with your 24 by 36 plan. . Use this in the back corner and mount an air compressor out there. That is what I would do, and then enclose the air compressor at a later date with either walls or 2 "door" panels on hinges so it looks like the rest of the building. As a side benefit there is less noise in the shop when running the compressor.

 

[Lassen Forge]

Just make sure you don't go under your local building department's roof snow load requirements - out here people generally overbuild, as when you hear your rafters popping with 3 feet of snow on your roof it gets a little spooky. Our snow load requirements are tied to elevation and location.

Remember you're going to pay a premium for odd dimensions, but IMO you'll always get the benefit out of more usable space, so to me, if you have the $$ to go custom, go for it.

I was thinking 40' wide x 21.5' deep, but... you'll have to to what your projected inside layouut of the shop is, where the doors are, workshop is, etc. to see if you can use that space. If it's 15' WALL height you have a lot of space to work with, but if it
s 15' PEAK height that changes a lot... even saying this, tho, making use of "dormers" over your car bays you might still get in enough height for a lift and not jeopardize your snow loading (and get better use out of that 15' peak height).

Lots of options!!!

 

[readhead]

A structural ridge does not require rafter ties or collar ties.

 

[Kevin54]

I would build it 28' x 30' and not worry about the few extra feet you'll be missing unless you build a small closet outside (5'x4') for an air compressor closet, or just leave things at 840 sq. ft.

28' deep will give you adequate depth, and 30 wide would give you almost a three car garage. If you go less than 28' deep, then you get tight in the front and rear of a car or truck.

 

[boiler7904]

Clarify with your town what they mean by building height. Some locations go by ridge height for gable roofs. Others go by the average of the ridge height and the bottom of the eave. You'll also want to know what they use as a reference point - is it finished grade, top of slab, or something else?

As far as footprint, what do you plan to store inside or do with the space? Does the long side need to face the street or can it be the short side?