Suggestions on garage situation

[dtbingle]

I'm having trouble deciding on what upgrades would be worthwhile to do to my garage. It's a 20' wide by 21' deep with the front wall @ 8 ft and rear @ 6 ft.
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Here's the current garage floor plan in relation to the house
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Can't expand wider towards street due to setbacks and a variance is very unlikely. Don't want to expand towards rear of house either as it would block two big windows in the kitchen and would be perpendicular to the garage door. I think the only reasonable expansion option is making it 6-8' deeper for a 20' x 27-29' deep.
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Concrete has some cracking, but fairly level. Most of the "stains" were from humidity and temperature changes. The red arrow indicates the worst spot.
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The one spot in garage where concrete is not level and has worst cracking. About an 1/8th" off level.
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Summary:
1) Current garage is 20' wide by 21' deep. Only reasonable expansion option is extending the depth from 21' to around 27-29'. Would this extra depth really make a difference and be worth the cost?
****Considering concrete is already cracked, it seems like to make the garage deeper would require a full tear down, bust up existing concrete, pour new foundation to include current and expansion area, then rebuild garage. I would expect this to be pretty expensive just to get an extra 6-8' of depth.
2) The 8 ft front wall and 6 ft rear wall make it feel really small inside.
Would it be worth it to change to 8 ft or 10 ft on both ends?
****Again, the only reasonable fix for this appears to be a tear down and rebuild
3) Concrete isn't great, but it could be worse. Thoughts on a skim coat to fix the cracking and 1/8" unlevel area before doing a sealcoat/epoxy?

 

[6768rogues]

If I liked the house and planned to stay there, I would rip the roof and the back wall down, and build them over. The walls can be taller with new trusses for a roof, possibly scissor trusses or attic storage trusses. An expensive solution, but worth it if you plan to stay. I would also jackhammer the floor and start over doing the whole floor as new.

 

[BuffettFan]

If I liked the house and planned to stay there, I would rip the roof and the back wall down, and build them over. The walls can be taller with new trusses for a roof, possibly scissor trusses or attic storage trusses. An expensive solution, but worth it if you plan to stay. I would also jackhammer the floor and start over doing the whole floor as new.

Yup.
If you plan to stay, I agree this is the way to go.

 

[ddawg16]

Another vote for tear down, build new.

Except I'd do 2-story as well while building out like you want.

While you are at it...pour a big pad in front the the kitchen....put an awning or 2nd story deck out there....(over the kitchen windows). Then...put in a big door on that wall...say sliding or barn door type? On nice days, open it up and move stuff out there to work on with protection from above.

 

[Rorin67]

If you don't want to spend big $$$:

1 - Then just expand off that 6' wall and treat the new extra square footage as storage-only. That way you free up the rest of the garage from all of your stuff and it will feel bigger having all of your stuff out of the way. That 6' wall is really limiting. Who's bright idea was that one?

2 - Also, that floor is rough. I'd forget about any epoxy floor unless you are going to demo the concrete and do over. Instead, think interlocking tiles (e.g. RaceDeck) that will easily cover it all up so you won't even notice it's rough condition.

 

[Hot Rod Grampa]

I believe your budget will dictate direction. If your garage has footings and frost walls those extra few feet can become real expensive. If you believe it is worth it, consider involving a professional. You may be an excellent craftsman in all the trades but you will be pulling permits. Structural work requires plans and stamps. It may be money well spent in the long run. Just thinking out loud.

 

[dtbingle]

Since concrete is cracked in a few places, but pretty close to level, what are the downsides to just grinding it down, using a thin leveling mix layer, and sealing? Only thing I can think of is strength for a 2-post lift install, but if a lift ever happens, it'd be a 4-post. Main reason to seal would be keeping dust down from deteriorating concrete, not appearance or lift install.

While you are at it...pour a big pad in front the the kitchen....put an awning or 2nd story deck out there....(over the kitchen windows). Then...put in a big door on that wall...say sliding or barn door type? On nice days, open it up and move stuff out there to work on with protection from above.

This is a great idea, thanks! I was actually thinking of pouring a pad on the side area next to the kitchen like you said to replace the current pea pebble mix, but never thought of the awning part. This would be awesome for extra work area.

If you don't want to spend big $$$:

1 - Then just expand off that 6' wall and treat the new extra square footage as storage-only. That way you free up the rest of the garage from all of your stuff and it will feel bigger having all of your stuff out of the way. That 6' wall is really limiting. Who's bright idea was that one?

Wish I knew so he/she could be hunted down.... Weird thing is, most of the houses in this neighborhood also have garage designs like this. Trying to hang some lights and it's becoming very awkward to do because of it.

I believe your budget will dictate direction. If your garage has footings and frost walls those extra few feet can become real expensive. If you believe it is worth it, consider involving a professional. You may be an excellent craftsman in all the trades but you will be pulling permits. Structural work requires plans and stamps. It may be money well spent in the long run. Just thinking out loud.

This is my main concern with frost line for footings @ 42" deep. A simple expansion for a few feet would skyrocket cost if a matching footing has to be legally designed, stamped, and poured. Has anyone actually tried doing a cheap bumpout like this? Seems like it would be enough for some tool storage to keep main area completely free and not cost $$$$ for full footing and concrete pour.

 

[matt_i]

Keep in mind you don't have to pay megabucks for a concrete pour.

Rent mini excavator, rent laser level, dig. Form footing with 2x10s, rebar, pour. Buy ICF block kit and form the walls. Set rebar in forms. Pour walls, installing J-bolts at the end. Refill trenches, rent jumping jack. Fill center with crushed stone and compact to level, set reinforcing steel, pour & finish new floor.

None of the above is very technical other than finishing the actual floor, and you can hire people to do that step. The rest is just planning and work. You pay for materials + 1 day of labor.

 

[Falcon67]

I'd go straight back the 6' 8" x 20 on the slab, remove the roof from the current ridge line back, set walls at 8', gable the roof front to rear starting at the current ridge line, up above that if necessary as required.

 

[dtbingle]

Keep in mind you don't have to pay megabucks for a concrete pour.

Rent mini excavator, rent laser level, dig. Form footing with 2x10s, rebar, pour. Buy ICF block kit and form the walls. Set rebar in forms. Pour walls, installing J-bolts at the end. Refill trenches, rent jumping jack. Fill center with crushed stone and compact to level, set reinforcing steel, pour & finish new floor.

None of the above is very technical other than finishing the actual floor, and you can hire people to do that step. The rest is just planning and work. You pay for materials + 1 day of labor.

Step-by-step is sounds very reasonable to do, but I'm mainly concerned with what permits are needed and what official stamps are required for them. Guess it's time to do permit research and call up the city!

 

[buddyboy]

build a 8x12 shed. use that for storage instead of your garage.

then finish off the inside of your existing garage with electrical/lights, insulation and drywall.

paint it a light color to brighten it up.

paint or epoxy your floor.

that should keep you busy for a good 6 to 9 months.

sometimes "go big or go home" is not the correct choice