You are going to cost me more money. I think I will need some of these things after my rebuild is done. Do you have some links to see the items you are thinking of using?
Can you explain the Transmission cooler?
It's meant as a cooler to densify and cool down the air before going into the receiver (tank). That way there will be more 'energy' in the air, prolonging use (note, not volume, you cannot change how much air there is in the tank physically). Most importantly it condenses water (through the lowering of temperature), which is the bane of any air system. You're going to have to place it in between your stages on the Saylor-Beall, right after the first stage (low compression) as an intercooler, and possible one after the high compression stage as an aftercooler.
Rest assured! Your SB does have an intercooler however, it's that finned chamber inbetween the bank of cylinders. So you'd only need the aftercooler.
As for the other stuff, I'm going by stuff I've read here, and on the Internet, but fear not, here we go!
The ARO-Flo has several different lines, I purposely picked the top-tiered ones because this is GJ
. I was going to go with the biggest piping I could find and afford. This turned out to be a battle between 1/2" and 3/4", the reducer on my tank is stuck, and unless I can get it out, I'll be limited to 1/2" (I could always enlarge and retap).
-Primary regulator/filter (3000 series, 3/4" port, 236 SCFM 10-175 PSI, 250 max PSI, automatic drain with a metal bowl and sight glass, no gauge, 5 micron filter):
http://shop.ingersollrandproducts.c...r-piggyback-pgybk-3000srs-npt-p39454-314.aspx
*Same as above, but with a manual drain:
http://shop.ingersollrandproducts.c...r-piggyback-pgybk-3000srs-npt-p39454-310.aspx
-Primary regulator/filter (2000 series, 3/4" port, 173 SCFM 10-175 PSI, 250 max PSI, automatic drain with a metal bowl and sight glass, no gauge, 5 micron filter):
http://shop.ingersollrandproducts.c...r-piggyback-pgybk-2000srs-npt-p39354-314.aspx
Here's where I run into trouble, the 3000 series piggyback filter/regulator units do not have a 0.3 micron filter option, only a 40 and a 5 micron. But since I want everything to match, I'd need to get the regulator and the filter separately, or get the combo filter/regulator/lubricator and replace the filter with the 0.3 micron one. Or I could just downgrade to the 2000 series which has a lower SCFM rating, but has a 0.3 micron option.
-0.3 micron coalescing filter (3000 series, 3/4" port, 288 SCFM, 250 PSI, manual drain with a metal bowl and sight glass, 0.3 micron coalescing filter, mechanical service indicator):
http://shop.ingersollrandproducts.com/aro-filter-fltr-3000srs-npt-f35452-320.aspx
-0.3 micron coalescing filter (2000 series, 3/4" port, 216 SCFM, 250 PSI, automatic drain with a metal bowl and sight glass, 0.3 micron coalescing filter, mechanical service indicator):
http://shop.ingersollrandproducts.com/aro-filter-fltr-2000srs-npt-f35352-311.aspx
*Note, you can hook these up to the primary regulator as well if you forgo the piggyback filter/regulator. These filters have the option of a 0.3, 5 or a 40 micron filter, you just change them out.
-Secondary regulator/filter (2000 series, 1/2" port, 172 SCFM 0-140 PSI, 250 max PSI, automatic drain with a metal bowl and sight glass, 0.3 micron coalescing filter):
http://shop.ingersollrandproducts.c...r-piggyback-pgybk-2000srs-npt-p39343-114.aspx
Confuzzled yet? And that's only for the IR closeout stuff (meaning I couldn't find every configuration needed, hence some compromise). None of the piggybacks I chose had a pressure gauge, I'm planning to buy a wide-faced gauge with a 1/8" NPT port for the two regulators. In addition, ARO-Flo does not make a coalescing filter with an element bigger than 0.3 micron, which if placed between my aftercooler and the tank will kill air flow (especially important when you have small pumps, since the pump will come on during prolonged use). Then again, I took a look at the 3/4" pressure drop tests and found out my concerns were not really concerns at all because at 120-ish PSI into the filter, the pressure drop is around 0.2 PSI.
So yes, just go for the ARO filters. You'll still need to stick a filter after the air comes out of the tank to protect the air lines and tools from tank particles. Another option is to build a large water separator and plumb it before the tank. Something like columns of copper pipes connected by a drain at the bottom will do (
http://i1153.photobucket.com/albums/p512/jansentim/venturi_zps5fe3e9fb.jpg). You could also replace the coalescing filter with a more conventional water separator, which provides higher flow (not as restrictive).
In order to get dryer air, coalescing filters won't touch desiccant dryers, so if you're painting, it's best to install one downstream.
DIY aftercoolers have been done before on this board (do a search), this is a fairly successful one:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2845072&postcount=32
Hope that helps! No clue if I'm 100% right or not!
