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Bmast

Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2006
Messages
6
Location
Maplewood, NJ
Hey folks, this is my first post, though I've been following for some time now. A bit about my space, it's a 17x17 detached garage that I plan on using for a multi-purpose space, some wood, some metal maybe, general house maintenance and repair, along with art and creative projects. So to begin with, I'd like to get the floor in some kind of working order. The house is about 100 years old, as is the garage. I don't know much about the history of the garage itself, but the floor is in less than stellar shape. So I'm looking for the most cost effective way to get this into working order. Please take a look and I welcome any and all suggestions.
 

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DCarr2

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Dec 12, 2015
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Location
Akron NY
ya know, some may disagree, but a thought none the less.... after all 150+ views and no bites?

I know what thats like :(

you could try 1" foam, and put 4" of new concrete over it... Maybe talk to a few concrete guys (no one from craigslist)

They may have some solutions vs tearing it out (a popular suggestion around here)
 

75gmck25

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Joined
Jul 21, 2014
Messages
1,318
Location
Alexandria, VA
I have a similar need and have gotten a few responses to questions I've asked. Many companies want to jackhammer it out and do a new pour, but board members have suggested it is feasible to pour a 2-4" layer of new concrete over it and bond it to the old concrete, if everything is cleaned up well first. Since I want to raise the floor height a little anyway, that may be the solution I use.

In your case,would the foam be used for insulation value, or moisture control when you add new concrete on top, or for some other reason? Foam is very common under new concrete, but hadn't considered adding it between the two layers.

I also responded to a different post that was asking about wood floors, since that would be a nice working surface in the garage. The idea I'm considering is to just add a layer of self-leveling concrete over the old floor to get it nice and level, and then install a wood floor made of reclaimed wood. I think I would need moisture barrier and then furring strips under the wooden floor, but I'm not sure what else is needed to make it work.

My 1940 garage is so small (10'x19" inside) that it will be more of a workshop for tools and small projects, and I won't have a car in it very often. It sounds like you also have limited space.

Bruce
 
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Bmast

Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2006
Messages
6
Location
Maplewood, NJ
Not sure what you mean by the 150 views and no bites? I'm new to message boards. Should I be doing something differently?
 
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Bmast

Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2006
Messages
6
Location
Maplewood, NJ
Do you have pictures of your floor? I got a quote, and it was to tear up and re-pour. I might search out an easier (and more inexpensive) option
 

Dpmulvan

Active member
Joined
Aug 1, 2016
Messages
28
Putting new concrete over old is a bad idea and a waste of time and money. Do you have any moisture problems?? Have you done a moisture test? What's your budget? Are you going to do this yourself? It's hard to tell the overall condition of the whole space with those pics. 17 by 17 is a pretty small area and fresh concrete wouldn't be a lot of money especially if you rent some equipment and do the demo yourself. To repair you would have to grind the floor, chase and fill cracks, patch deep areas then resurface with Ardex cd or something similiar. That's a lot of work and money for a patched up 100 year old slab. I would rent a jack hammer and start from scratch then you'll have a nice level, clean, smooth surface. Just my two cents
 
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CombatNinja

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Aug 24, 2013
Messages
1,456
Two options:

1.Live with it as is and embrace the "vintage".

2.Tear it out and repour.

Any attempts to salvage that or bond concrete to the top will be either ineffective to too expensive to bother.
 

Cave Creek Ray

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Joined
Mar 8, 2015
Messages
383
Location
North Central Arizona
Dittos on the "over-pour" idea. Dumb. Very dumb.

Any movement on the old floor puts the new floor at risk. Concrete is super strong in compression and very weak in bending loads, like heaving. It looks like your footings have moved a little too in a century. Hopefully, they are all done moving!

Your current floor looks like moose-poop. Sorry, that's what a buyer would say if you listed your house. Busting out your floor and doing it right is a labor of love for a garage lover. And, it increases your property values. Make a day out of it. Its not a huge garage.

1. Buy a case of beer. Too much beer causes injuries and dehydrates workers. Buy a couple cases of water too.
2. Have your significant other run for pizza/hoagies/Chinese/BBQ/Col Sanders/etc.
3. The week before, rent a dumpster capable of concrete transport. Ask the company and see if they have a special dumpster for this purpose. Locally, its $299 here in Phoenix. Figure out how you can get the dumpster as close as possible to the garage.
4. Rent a jackhammer. Take small nibbles, no more than 4" into the concrete edge. Use the point tool on the hammer and make sure they give you sharp ones. If you can sharpen along the way once or twice, it will make the job that much easier.
5. As the hammers break it out, have a guy (you!) haul it to a dumpster to be hauled away.

For $500-$575, you have the whole floor removed. Gone. Vaporized.

If you can still move (or the next week) measure you floor depth and make sure you have 4" minimum for the new slab. Export dirt if need be. Consider 6" turn downs a foot out around the footings to ensure any footing movement doesn't affect floor. Plan on running elevated 3/8" rebar across floor in at least 24" sections with a good rebar loop around the entire footer, about 6" inside the footer. This is a great time to run any power you may want in the middle of the floor.

Find a couple guys who know how to work concrete and hire them for the day on a weekend. Lots of guys do side work. You MUST see their work before ordering mud! Plenty of guys have been burned on this forum hiring one guy who lets the load get hot before its worked. Get two guys minimum and be their laborer. Wet the hell out of the pour site the night before to keep the ground cool and with the cover of the building, you should have a great Fall pour. Consider cutting the expansion joints instead of working them in while wet. This works better with epoxy coatings.

Doing a lot of the labor and set-up yourself, you should be able to get this done for around $2000-$2500 -or less. Hey, the results will transform your garage.

Ray
 
Last edited:

Bronson

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 2, 2011
Messages
12,674
Location
Texas panhandle
Dittos on the "over-pour" idea. Dumb. Very dumb.

Any movement on the old floor puts the new floor at risk. Concrete is super strong in compression and very weak in bending loads, like heaving. It looks like your footings have moved a little too in a century. Hopefully, they are all done moving!

Your current floor looks like moose-poop. Sorry, that's what a buyer would say if you listed your house. Busting out your floor and doing it right is a labor of love for a garage lover. And, it increases your property values. Make a day out of it. Its not a huge garage.

1. Buy a case of beer. Too much beer causes injuries and dehydrates workers. Buy a couple cases of water too.
2. Have your significant other run for pizza/hoagies/Chinese/BBQ/Col Sanders/etc.
3. The week before, rent a dumpster capable of concrete transport. Ask the company and see if they have a special dumpster for this purpose. Locally, its $299 here in Phoenix. Figure out how you can get the dumpster as close as possible to the garage.
4. Rent a jackhammer. Take small nibbles, no more than 4" into the concrete edge. Use the point tool on the hammer and make sure they give you sharp ones. If you can sharpen along the way once or twice, it will make the job that much easier.
5. As the hammers break it out, have a guy (you!) haul it to a dumpster to be hauled away.

For $500-$575, you have the whole floor removed. Gone. Vaporized.

If you can still move (or the next week) measure you floor depth and make sure you have 4" minimum for the new slab. Export dirt if need be. Consider 6" turn downs a foot out around the footings to ensure any footing movement doesn't affect floor. Plan on running elevated 3/8" rebar across floor in at least 24" sections with a good rebar loop around the entire footer, about 6" inside the footer. This is a great time to run any power you may want in the middle of the floor.

Find a couple guys who know how to work concrete and hire them for the day on a weekend. Lots of guys do side work. You MUST see their work before ordering mud! Plenty of guys have been burned on this forum hiring one guy who lets the load get hot before its worked. Get two guys minimum and be their laborer. Wet the hell out of the pour site the night before to keep the ground cool and with the cover of the building, you should have a great Fall pour. Consider cutting the expansion joints instead of working them in while wet. This works better with epoxy coatings.

Doing a lot of the labor and set-up yourself, you should be able to get this done for around $2000-$2500 -or less. Hey, the results will transform your garage.

Ray


this.:thumbup:
 

chrispyny

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 7, 2013
Messages
467
Location
albany, ny
I agree. Tear it out economically the way others said. Save $ in that department.
Then spend what you have left to pour it right.

Good luck. Please follow up and let us know what happens.
 
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Bmast

Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2006
Messages
6
Location
Maplewood, NJ
Thanks for the help! Some great advice for sure. I've gotten a couple of quotes and it looks like I can get it done for about $3500 (ballpark). If it would cost me $2500 to do on my own I may just opt for getting it done, rather than taking this on myself.

Good to know that it's not worth patching, top-coating, or anything like that. I would've hated to go through the trouble only to find it'd need to be redone.

I may have to live with the "vintage" floor for the winter though.
 
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