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Sump Pump Check Valve

D45

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Mar 21, 2014
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NW INDIANA
I have a Zoeller Clear Quiet Check Valve on my sump pump discharge line

I installed it about 5 years ago and recently it became pretty loud , with a loud "clunk" after the pump stops

Do these valves go bad after time?

If so, they are inexpensive enough that I will replace it

What's the latest and greatest, best quiet valve?
 
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Motown

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May 11, 2011
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SE Michigan
Maybe soak it in some white vinegar and water for a bit. Maybe mineral build up is causing the problem.
 

engineer2

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Dec 13, 2009
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Chicago burbs
The problem is water hammer. The pump shuts off, the water column hits the check valve, and BAM.
You need to build an air chamber above the check valve. Easy enough with PVC pipe.
Watch out, there is a lot of bad information on the internet.

check_valve_diagram.jpg
 
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nadogail

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Jan 23, 2009
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Location
Coronado, CA
Water Hammer is powerful and destructive over time. I have had good results in eliminating it by the simple expedient of adding air chambers to absorb the hydro shock.

Engineer 2 has posted a very good solution.
 

Ohio Auto

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Dec 25, 2010
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Ohio
I did not know this ... my valve has always clunked ... do you leave the air chamber uncapped and approx length please?
 

C-Mac

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Dec 12, 2013
Messages
22
The air chamber needs to be sealed. I've used female pipe threaded cleanouts for this purpose. My setup is in a 4' deep sump, and goes from the check valve to the bottom of the lid (approx. 24")
 
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D45

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Mar 21, 2014
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NW INDIANA
My setup was very quiet for many years, with no air chamber

I think the valve is worn out?

Or maybe the spring is worn
 

kbs2244

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Nov 11, 2006
Messages
14,065
I solved the problem by removing the check valve
it also lets the pump spool up to speed without a start up load
the six feet of 1.5 inch pipe does not hold enough water to worry about
(I found out that my on time plumbing contractor boss did this at his house)
 

tdkkart

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Jun 17, 2006
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Location
Eastern Iowa
When I lived in a house that had an "active" sump pump, I used the check valve to know when the pump ran. Couldn't hear the pump, but could hear the check valve.
 
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D45

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My pump line runs about 9 feet up and 16 feet long inside the house, then about 90 feet out (buried)........ so the check valve is likely needed
 

dcg9381

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Jun 20, 2018
Messages
11,638
Location
Austin, TX
I don't have a sump pump, but I do use a pump that is mounted below the water level in the tank. I use the following anti-backflow valve - it's perfectly quiet and you can see it operate. Dunno if they make them in smaller version.

1645476710633.png
 
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D45

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NW INDIANA
Here's what I currently have installed

Maybe it's discontinued, for a reason


Camis CCOOSL15
 

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joes169

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Sep 19, 2011
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663
Location
WI
I solved the problem by removing the check valve
it also lets the pump spool up to speed without a start up load
You can do the same by drilling a small hole in the very bottom of the discharge pipe, drilled on a downward angle, to allow the first bit of pipe to drain back every time.
 

Jtrudel90

Active member
Joined
Jan 7, 2012
Messages
41
The check valve above is actually manufactured by A.Y McDonald and is current. Shouldn’t be hard to locate. There are a few different configurations
 
Last edited:
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D45

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You can do the same by drilling a small hole in the very bottom of the discharge pipe, drilled on a downward angle, to allow the first bit of pipe to drain back every time.

Yes, when I installed a new pump a few years ago this was in the installation manual
 

Bretny

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Jul 31, 2017
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Location
Dutchess county NY
I solved the problem by removing the check valve
it also lets the pump spool up to speed without a start up load
the six feet of 1.5 inch pipe does not hold enough water to worry about
(I found out that my on time plumbing contractor boss did this at his house)
That's all true..bit you get to re pump that 6ft of water every time the pump starts too.
 

gba2331

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Sep 22, 2021
Messages
760
That's all true..bit you get to re pump that 6ft of water every time the pump starts too.
This would also make your pump turn on more often because your repumping the same water every time.
 

DGersic

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Mar 12, 2017
Messages
6,280
Location
DeKalb, IL
The problem is water hammer. The pump shuts off, the water column hits the check valve, and BAM.
You need to build an air chamber above the check valve. Easy enough with PVC pipe.
Watch put, there is a lot of bad information on the internet.

check_valve_diagram.jpg

That’s interesting. I don’t have an air chamber, but I only have about 8’ of lift to get from the basement to outside the house. No problems, but maybe next time I replace the pump I should add an air chamber to it.
 

gizardlizard

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Joined
Aug 29, 2019
Messages
725
Location
Madison, WI
I live in a very low area and in the spring, my
Sump pump runs about a 20 minute on cycle and a 4 minute off cycle. I have a battery backup pump as well, along with a high water alarm. I replace both Zoeller pumps and check valves every 5 years. I’ve never gotten more than 6 years of life out of one.
 

larry4406

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Jan 27, 2006
Messages
19,069
Location
Northern Virginia
My pump line runs about 9 feet up and 16 feet long inside the house, then about 90 feet out (buried)........ so the check valve is likely needed
At the day job, once the sump line gets up into the floor system, it is then run with a slight downhill pitch (1/4" per foot) to the band board where it exits the home. Piping is strapped/ anchored well.

Once outside, there is an elbow pointing downward where it is aimed concentric to a 3" pipe but they are not connected and there is a minimum of 1" separation. The 3" pipe goes into the earth and is run at 1/4" per foot to daylight somewhere (minimum 10' away from foundation) and flows via gravity.

We do the weep hole drilling of the pipe inside the sump crock. We do not do the air chamber technique nor do we use the "Quiet Check Valve" on the sump pump discharge.

We have found the above to be more than adequate and eliminating the hammer noise from sump pump operation.

On sanitary ejector pumps, we do use the Quite Check Valve along with the drilled weep hole.
 

mike93lx

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Dec 9, 2013
Messages
37,408
Location
Richmond, VA
At the day job, once the sump line gets up into the floor system, it is then run with a slight downhill pitch (1/4" per foot) to the band board where it exits the home. Piping is strapped/ anchored well.

Once outside, there is an elbow pointing downward where it is aimed concentric to a 3" pipe but they are not connected and there is a minimum of 1" separation. The 3" pipe goes into the earth and is run at 1/4" per foot to daylight somewhere (minimum 10' away from foundation) and flows via gravity.

We do the weep hole drilling of the pipe inside the sump crock. We do not do the air chamber technique nor do we use the "Quiet Check Valve" on the sump pump discharge.

We have found the above to be more than adequate and eliminating the hammer noise from sump pump operation.

On sanitary ejector pumps, we do use the Quite Check Valve along with the drilled weep hole.
Is this mostly crawl space sumps or do you do many basements?
 
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