About a year ago I had a battery back-up ejector pump added the existing ejector in my basement sump pit. The system has been working perfectly for the last year. Then, for no apparent reason, I have had two instances in the same week where both pumps failed to run resulting in some minor flooding. the float switches on both pumps are working correctly. ( tested by unplugging ea and testing independently). Anyone have any ideas whats going on? The plumber suggested that I should replace the original pump (which is the primary). I feel like he has no idea whats going on and is grasping at straws.
Sump pumps failing
- Thread starter tbradfish
- Start date
ratdoggy
Well-known member
What kind of float switch? is it a tether type?
couch67
Well-known member
you mention that each pump is working when you checked out the float switch. When you tested this, you can see that each pump is actually pumping water out of the pit?
How are they plumbed? normally they are joined together to a common outlet pipe. Some pumps have built in check valves but some dont, so its common to have a check valve just above the outlet of each pump. A small (1/8") hole is normally drilled in the piping between each pump and inline check valves, this depressurizes that part of the line after the pumping is done, preventing the pump from 'locking' when it starts up again.
Where does the water eject to? surface or underground? I've seen some underground setups freeze, causing pumps to fail once there's nowhere for the water to go.
along the lines of Ratdoggy's question, the tether types of floats can sometimes get stuck in the plumbing / wiring or side of the pit, preventing it from triggering. Make sure there's nothing around the floats that could interfere with its operation.
couch
How are they plumbed? normally they are joined together to a common outlet pipe. Some pumps have built in check valves but some dont, so its common to have a check valve just above the outlet of each pump. A small (1/8") hole is normally drilled in the piping between each pump and inline check valves, this depressurizes that part of the line after the pumping is done, preventing the pump from 'locking' when it starts up again.
Where does the water eject to? surface or underground? I've seen some underground setups freeze, causing pumps to fail once there's nowhere for the water to go.
along the lines of Ratdoggy's question, the tether types of floats can sometimes get stuck in the plumbing / wiring or side of the pit, preventing it from triggering. Make sure there's nothing around the floats that could interfere with its operation.
couch
thanks for your reply.
to answer the questions:
1. Yes both were actually pumping water separately
2. Each pump has its own check valve and weep hole. the two outlets come together before joining the main sewer line (septic). It's been quite warm - no chance of freezing
I know that the first time it flooded, I unplugged/re-plugged one of the pumps and it started working....perhaps suggesting that is was vapor locked. But it seems really unlikely to me that both pumps didn't work. Even if one was locked, the other should have kicked in
to answer the questions:
1. Yes both were actually pumping water separately
2. Each pump has its own check valve and weep hole. the two outlets come together before joining the main sewer line (septic). It's been quite warm - no chance of freezing
I know that the first time it flooded, I unplugged/re-plugged one of the pumps and it started working....perhaps suggesting that is was vapor locked. But it seems really unlikely to me that both pumps didn't work. Even if one was locked, the other should have kicked in
Reg1952
Well-known member
I have 2 pumps in my pit plus a battery back up. Pumps are set at different float levels if one fails second one will starts. If it fails battery back up kicks in. Has saved my **** twice.
couch67
Well-known member
when you say you unplugged the pump and plugged back in, and it started working, is that all you did? Ie the pit was full of water and simply unplug/plugging the pump in it started? If this is the case I'd confirm the electrical connections at your wall plug - maybe you have a loose connection.
Doesnt explain why the battery powered pump also didnt work (maybe battery was dead from the same issue??), but I'd still check the connections.
Doesnt explain why the battery powered pump also didnt work (maybe battery was dead from the same issue??), but I'd still check the connections.
larry4406
Well-known member
Sorry but minor terminology correction needed:
Sump pump = ground water
Ejector pit/pump =septic due to hung sewer condition.
Can't help you with why both ejector pumps failed you and you apparently got sewage in the basement. Wish you the best and hope the spillage was minimal.
Sump pump = ground water
Ejector pit/pump =septic due to hung sewer condition.
Can't help you with why both ejector pumps failed you and you apparently got sewage in the basement. Wish you the best and hope the spillage was minimal.
redmondjp
Well-known member
I would suspect sticky floats, such as from debris caught between the float and the pump.
ford33
Well-known member
It is time to replace the floats. I change my every two years. They seem to be built poorly. Even the high dollar float switches fail more often than I would like.
You should also run the pumps every 2 or 3 months just to make sure they will work.
A long time ago I had two floats fail at the same time. Both pumps did not run and my basement well overflowed about 1 inch of water. It was enough to make a major mess of carpet and boxes and furniture. What are the odds that both primary and backup pumps floats fail? That's why I change them every two years and test the pumps every 3 months.
Good luck.
You should also run the pumps every 2 or 3 months just to make sure they will work.
A long time ago I had two floats fail at the same time. Both pumps did not run and my basement well overflowed about 1 inch of water. It was enough to make a major mess of carpet and boxes and furniture. What are the odds that both primary and backup pumps floats fail? That's why I change them every two years and test the pumps every 3 months.
Good luck.
n20junkie
Well-known member
I prefer the water powered backup. The battery ones just don't last long enough in a wet day primary pump fails situation. The water ones have the benefit as well of being a bit louder so you know that it's running.
redmondjp
Well-known member
I have seen that on a Hydramatic sump pump that I installed for a friend. The OEM built-in float switch contacts lasted about 12 years, and then the replacement ones that he bought (also OEM) on Amazon only lasted 3 years. I told him to go into his Amazon history and order two this time!
Todd.Brock
Well-known member
I had a Zoeller pump that would not pump periodically. The float would stick. I had a battery back up and it would be going crazy beeping and what not. I looked around and thought WTH.. we didn't lose power... i tapped on the main pump and it kicked on and pumped away. it happened 3x when we finished our basement. I finally just replaced the main pump with another Zoeller. It was 115 bucks vs a flooded basement. We used to get so much water that sometimes the back up came in b/c the main pump couldn't keep up.
pstnbly
Well-known member
If the float switches are wired to a pump relay it takes the high current of motor start off the float switch resulting in longer life for the switch. Any pump over about 5 amps should be on a relay.
I replaced my mechanical float switch with an electronic probe switch. No moving parts (wire probe tip senses water level) and it has a timer you can set to keep the pump from short-cycling (rapid start/stop cycles). Among other things, short-cycling also kills pumps. Here's one similar to mine:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000H5RXZI/?tag=atomicindus08-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000H5RXZI/?tag=atomicindus08-20