Sump Pumps

[cnc-me]

Need some recommendations on a sump pump, with a float switch that actually works for more than a few months.
I don't like the switches that are external to the pump, as the crock is small and they often hang up.

As long as I'm here I will recommend Teal sewage pumps, they are super,
going strong after 30+ years. I'm not sure you can get them anymore though.
Maybe under a different brand name?


-Thanks

 

[On-Wheel]

The sump pump that starts with a Z have been 10 year runners for me.On my 3rd pump in 20 years.

 

[mishkaya]

I also have four Z pumps (1 sewage, 3 sump) and have been pleased with them. I have all non float models however, and have been using electronic float switches from hydrocheck. I very much like their timed units, setup once and forget about them. They have worked flawlessly for the three or four years I have had them now. I did have a failure with one of their auto sensing switches, and they sent me the timed unit which I have been running since. Takes up no space in the sump well, and they have an audible alarm in case of failure.

 

[Dagny]

Zoeller were great pumps. sold by plumbers now in big box stores, probably turn to ****.

 

[Firebrick43]

The best sumps are zoeller. Their attached float switches are still their failure point. While the parts are not hard to replace, what’s the cost of a failure due to flooding.

Your against separate switches, but what style have you had experience with? I am guessing only the swing floats with the sliding switch inside? They can be hard to set up in small sumps. They do make vertical floats that will fit in an area only 3 or 4” in diameter.

Also if the sump is really small I would highly suggest a larger sump. With an sds drill they are not that hard to replace. Most sumps are to small. A small sump short cycle the pump not only shortening its and the float mechanisms life but also fill so fast in a deluge it can overwhelm a pump

 

[SJay3660]

I use a pedestal sump - it allows me set how deep the water gets in my crock. Increased time between when it switches on and now it runs much longer but fewer times per hour.

I Put a water alarm on it and it will email me when water gets to high. I also have a camera pointed at it so I can check on from my phone at any time.

It's from Menards

 

[nadogail]

I have found that the mercury switches work quite well, I have used them to replace mechanical switches when the fail.

Dayton Pumps, from Grainger, have seemed to be satisfactory.

 

[cnc-me]

Zoeller were great pumps. sold by plumbers now in big box stores, probably turn to ****.

I actually had a Zoeller sewage pump that was bought new, to be used as a
pump for a truck well. This was a little overkill, or so I thought, had nothing but problems with the Zoeller. Damn thing lost all of it's oil in three months, and float
switch didn't work right either. I fixed it and it ran for 6 more months and I think the motor went this last time. What a POS, should have known, when I took it out of the box, the whole bottom of the pump was plastic, cast iron, my ***.
The top part is cast iron though, just replaced it with a cheap sump pump that lasted for years, but the float switch never worked right either.

 

[cnc-me]

The sump pump that starts with a Z have been 10 year runners for me.On my 3rd pump in 20 years.

Glad to hear someone had good luck with them. Just not me.....see my other post.

 

[cnc-me]

I also have four Z pumps (1 sewage, 3 sump) and have been pleased with them. I have all non float models however, and have been using electronic float switches from hydrocheck. I very much like their timed units, setup once and forget about them. They have worked flawlessly for the three or four years I have had them now. I did have a failure with one of their auto sensing switches, and they sent me the timed unit which I have been running since. Takes up no space in the sump well, and they have an audible alarm in case of failure.

Thanks, will be checking out the float switches from hydrocheck.
Still need a good pump though, no Z's for me, I'm done with them.

 

[Sawlog]

The z 63 has a improved switch and longer warranty now.

 

[pcmeiners]

Had a large Little Giant with an internal side mounted pressure activated switch...pump was great the switch design sucked as condensation would make it non functional in a couple months, switch replaced several times. I like float switches.

 

[Showkey]

Mercury switches can be hard to find..........hazardous waste folks caused that.

Typical wording:
Environmental friendly (Mercury Free) - suitable for use in septic, sump, and potable water

Tether style Float switch with the ball bearing are no comparison to mercury.

Float style where the switch is not under water are often a good choice. Takes away one failure mode switch corrosion from leaky housing.

Small crock tethered float switch are susceptible to hang ups In the on and off position.
Back in the day they tried water sensor switches ( no moving parts) ......they were an epic fail.

Septic lift station pumps........been told by many if you an old one and it’s working DON’T CHANGE IT until it stops. They don’t make like they use to. Mine is 23 years old and counting. Cast iron likely a ZOELLER, never pulled it to check.

Regular sump crock no substitute to a water alarm. Various models and types.......

Two sump crocks in my basement ( one ground water, One floor drain furnace, dehumidifier and water softener) , swapped both pumps at time of purchased. Same piping, same pump, same layout, extra new pump sitting in the box. Water alarm present.

 

[gagecalman]

I've had excellent results using a HydroCheck HC6000 "Hi-Lo Sump Pump Controller" with a manual pump. No floats to hang up and no mechanical switches to go bad. There are two sensors so you can set the on/off height where it works best for your situation and to reduce short cycling.

I've installed a few Liberty Model 230 pumps (manual, no switch) that are powder coated aluminum without any issues.

 

[kbs2244]

Currently a Z
But it has a pedestal setting by if it needs replacement
I like the motor out of the water and the easy to adjust vertical float switch

 

[matt_i]

I got the Z. Its working great. I was really impressed with the float switch lol. Time will tell. Around 1.5 years from new.

 

[cnc-me]

I've had excellent results using a HydroCheck HC6000 "Hi-Lo Sump Pump Controller" with a manual pump. No floats to hang up and no mechanical switches to go bad. There are two sensors so you can set the on/off height where it works best for your situation and to reduce short cycling.

I've installed a few Liberty Model 230 pumps (manual, no switch) that are powder coated aluminum without any issues.

Thanks, I'm looking at the Liberty 257.

 

[Showkey]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Liberty VMF:
I would be very concerned with the statement:
Vertical Magnetic Float (VMF) model is not recommended for effluent applications due to their short On/Off cycle. Short cycle is counter productive in any application, including conventional sump crock. Small crock short cycle is going to be even more of an issue.

 

[dcg9381]

The best sumps are zoeller. Their attached float switches are still their failure point. While the parts are not hard to replace, what’s the cost of a failure due to flooding.

In a neighboring community, almost all the homes are on "grinders" - which are sump pumps to some degree. Just like septic, they're required to have a separate "alarm" if the pump fails. This has seemed to work well.

 

[csp]

Zoeller were great pumps. sold by plumbers now in big box stores, probably turn to ****.

If they're anything like other products sold at both the big box and plumbing supply house, the one at the supply house is a better quality.

I can think of names like Delta faucets, Rheem water heaters, etc that are definitely not the same from both sources.

 

[kschauwe]

Get a N53 manual Z pump (no switch) and one of these
https://www.sumppumpsdirect.com/HydroCheck-HC6000/p12358.html

 

[gagecalman]

Thanks, I'm looking at the Liberty 257.

That pump has a switch. Go with the HydroCheck HC6000 and a pump without a switch.

 

[Showkey]

Read ALL the reviews on the HydroCheck HC6000............

While many ( most) are good.........Far from perfect, similar to sensor type switches from 10-15 years back. Debris, short cycle as soon as the probes are out of the water.

 

[redmondjp]

In a neighboring community, almost all the homes are on "grinders" - which are sump pumps to some degree. Just like septic, they're required to have a separate "alarm" if the pump fails. This has seemed to work well.

This is a great idea, but you have to go one step further - the separate high-level alarm power source needs to be from a separate circuit that the sump pump is on. If the circuit breaker or GFCI trips on the pump circuit, you still need power (moreseo than ever) for that alarm circuit.

The alarm circuit takes very little power so can be tapped onto another existing circuit in the house that you will notice if it isn't on (such as an interior lighting circuit).

And then another thing - you have to put the high-level indication device somewhere that the residents will readily be able to notice it. If it's on the back wall of the mud room behind a coat hook and has no audible feature, it might as well not be there. At one friend's house, I installed a red pilot light in a box high up on the wall right inside the garage door where they normally look when they are looking into the garage. It has already alerted them of one problem with their crawl space drainage sump.

 

[bamawildcat]

I've been running the same Zoeller for over a decade. When the switch failed, stuck in the on position, I added a floatless switch. Zoeller is selling them for $125, but you can get them from their OEM, LevelGuard, for $100. Nothing to externally go up and down in the muck!

https://www.zoellerpumps.com/en-us/products/alarms/switches/floatless

https://www.amazon.com/LevelGuard-Z24801A1Z-Solid-State-Switch/dp/B0083WB4GQ

 

[NUTTSGT]

I'd have to actually look at our sump pump to see what it is. I bought it at HD, pretty sure, about 18 years ago and never a hiccup out of it.

However, it hangs off the bottom of the pit and doesn't rest on the floor. Maybe this allows it not to **** up as much debris or sediment and prolong it's survivability.

 

[Showkey]

I've been running the same Zoeller for over a decade. When the switch failed, stuck in the on position, I added a floatless switch. Zoeller is selling them for $125, but you can get them from their OEM, LevelGuard, for $100. Nothing to externally go up and down in the muck!

https://www.zoellerpumps.com/en-us/products/alarms/switches/floatless

https://www.amazon.com/LevelGuard-Z24801A1Z-Solid-State-Switch/dp/B0083WB4GQ

Just to say it again........these ^^^^^are NOT new and NOT with out problems.

If you have sump pump that must run ........and.........if stops for any reason will cause damage ( or mess) . At the bare minimum have a backup ready and water alarm on any pump/switch system.

 

[bamawildcat]

Just to say it again........these ^^^^^are NOT new and NOT with out problems.

If you have sump pump that must run ........and.........if stops for any reason will cause damage ( or mess) . At the bare minimum have a backup ready and water alarm on any pump/switch system.

These aren't Vertical Magnetic Float (VMF) like you referred to. These are Field Effect Transition (FET) based switches. While I agree these didn't get released this year, the tech is only 10 years old.

 

[alba2190]

I have had the Wayne 1HP pump for years and it NEVER had an issue. It ran about twice a minute, year round.

 

[LOW1]

My theory with sump pumps is that you get what you pay for. All brands have a budget line, which I would avoid. Buy the top end line in the size that you need. Will likely be a minimum of $200.00 or $300.00. Don't be afraid to go to the local plumbing supply store which has the most plumber's vans parked outside and ask what brand they sell the most of.

 

[johnnyradiant]

I have had the Wayne 1HP pump for years and it NEVER had an issue. It ran about twice a minute, year round.

On - off - on - off all in a minute, 24/7 365? That seems like an amazing short cycle I bet the circuit breaker is a little warm too.

 

[johnehr]

My theory with sump pumps is that you get what you pay for. All brands have a budget line, which I would avoid. Buy the top end line in the size that you need. Will likely be a minimum of $200.00 or $300.00. Don't be afraid to go to the local plumbing supply store which has the most plumber's vans parked outside and ask what brand they sell the most of.

I took the expensive and risky path to eventually adopt this theory too. My septic outlet is about 6’ above the floor in my finished basement, so there is a sewage sump and pump for everything that originates down there. Failed pump means potential backup into finished space, so high-stakes. I went through 4 or 5 submersible pumps of various brands and with various switch technologies, none of them lasted. Finally installed a Tramco pedestal-style sewage pump on that sump last year. The motor and switch live outside of the sump, and this thing is built like a brick sh!t house. I think that it should easily outlast our stay in this house and probably the next few owners too, but we paid for it.

I searched the universe for an alternative pedestal style sewage pump, but I don’t believe an alternative to the Tramco exists.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Wheelingit]

I have installed hundreds of Zoeller sump pumps over the years. I can only recall two of them that went bad in less than ten years. I use the Zoeller M53D. I buy them all from a plumbing supply store, not big box.

 

[bigmike989]

I'd vote for Liberty 257 or similar. Nothing electrical below the water line. Mag switch keeps the electrical totally sealed. Super quiet.

 

[motoretro]

I have run "Champion" pumps for several years. I've tried Z pumps and had problems twice with switches. I can change the switch out on a Champion in less than (2) minutes with pump in place. I live in a high water table area, pumps run hard and often here. This past May, we had a 500 year flood, the Champion ran hard, cycling every 45 seconds although it kept running. I keep a spare pump on the bench along with a couple switches. The switches are a magnetic style, you can pull them off the pump with a single bolt, pull a plastic pin, pull apart and scrub with hot soapy water and reassemble.