Sunken Garage floor repair ideas?

[myridge]

my 20x22 attached garage floor has cracked 1/4 to 1/2" crack right in the middle and sank slanting backwards to the back left corner towards the house.

Its been like this for a very long time 10+ years, the home was built in 1973 and previously had a water drainage problem between the garage and the house and apparently was ignored for a long time. I bought the home 7 years ago and we have fixed the water issue and redirected the water away from the home.

I just alway ignored the sloped garage floor. It drops 3-6" into the back corner about a 1/3 of the floor.

Its solid and the settling has stopped years ago. My question is can I just use a diamond grinder and rough up the sunken portion and pour new concrete over that half and blend it back into the floor? I don't have the budget to break out the old floor and replace the entire thing. 2/3 of its fine just the back corner that I use for my bench and work area thats why its so annoying. Every time I drop a socket it rolls under my bench.

What can i do to fix this Cheaply on a budget?

 

[Orangestang]

I think if you pour over the old it will just chip up over time especially near the edges. Thats just a temp fix and you will be aggravated with it.If this was in my garage I would rent a wet saw from Home Depot cut out whats bad and bust it out. Then compact it and pour new concrete. I'm cheap too therefore I do all my own work.

 

[EdT]

There are companies that pump hydraulic grout under sunken floors, walkways etc. This basically lifts the floor back to where it's supposed to be and requires no demo or repouring. I have no idea of the cost, but it's probably the easiest/best solution.

 

[djjsr]

Google "mudjacking"

 

[samtilefloorcleaning]

cool, never heard of "mudjacking"

 

[z28snksknr]

my 20x22 attached garage floor has cracked 1/4 to 1/2" crack right in the middle and sank slanting backwards to the back left corner towards the house.

Its been like this for a very long time 10+ years, the home was built in 1973 and previously had a water drainage problem between the garage and the house and apparently was ignored for a long time. I bought the home 7 years ago and we have fixed the water issue and redirected the water away from the home.

I just alway ignored the sloped garage floor. It drops 3-6" into the back corner about a 1/3 of the floor.

Its solid and the settling has stopped years ago. My question is can I just use a diamond grinder and rough up the sunken portion and pour new concrete over that half and blend it back into the floor? I don't have the budget to break out the old floor and replace the entire thing. 2/3 of its fine just the back corner that I use for my bench and work area thats why its so annoying. Every time I drop a socket it rolls under my bench.

What can i do to fix this Cheaply on a budget?

I honestly had to look and make sure this wasn't my thread on my garage because what you describe is identical to my place. From my research and hearing what others paid for mudjacking, it's not cheap, but it is cheaper than new concrete.

My plan is to bust out the low corner only (maybe a 3'x3' area), dig under the slab, and use a bunch of car jacks sitting on plywood to jack the slab back to where it belongs (or slightly higher initially). Then backfill under the void with a loose concrete mix and see if that holds it up. I may drill a few holes in the slab and pour throug hthe holes to make sure I fill all the void space underneath. It's going to be a few years before I try that, but it's cheap.

 

[036.6turbo]

From my research and hearing what others paid for mudjacking, it's not cheap, but it is cheaper than new concrete.

My local company (TripToe Concrete Leveling) did my entire driveway for $375.00. That was a few years back, but I did not have an issue with the price. It was less than %10 of the tear out, and replace estimate.

I am in Michigan, and am sure the prices vary, from region to region. But I would at least get an estimate, what can it hurt?

 

[Edger]

Hi,
You may be able to find an acrylic polymer to add to cement instead of water which will allow you to fill the area and feather it back while retaining strength. Normal concrete made with water is not stable and will crumble if it is less than two inches thick which is probably fine for the area deeper than two inches. Perhaps you could measure that and put a form across that section, fill it with concrete and then remove the form and fill the rest with acrylic modified concrete. I am sure that would be the cheapest way other than putting in a plywood floor over it.

 

[ozyborn]

If you want to pay, then mudjacking looks the way to go. I, however, hate to pay. So I would cut it out. Lay a new base and tamp it down and our a new section.

Another option nobody has said yet. Put a wooden floor in that area. Easier on the feet than concrete.

 

[pauls340]

The water has caused a big void under your slab, if you don't fill that void it will continue to sink. You could drill two holes in your slab (one to allow the air to escape) and pour a cementitious grout down the other hole. The problem is that void could be the size of your car and it would then cost about $1,000,000 in grout to fill it...not really, but about. I like the wooden floor repair idea. Concrete does not sick to concrete. The best repair product I have ever seen is Mg-Krete but a $50 bag only does 5 sq ft an inch thick.