Sunken lift?

[nvbigblue]

Greetings all!

Since I have plenty of free time over here to plan out my shop, one of the things I've been thinking about is a lift. I was planning on a two-post, probably in the 10K lbs range. While planning the layout in the shop for it, I came to the conclusion that I do not want to have to bother with bolting / unbolting the thing to the floor to keep it out of the way. But I don't want to be tripping over the lift arms when it's not being used. So I had the thought of sinking the lift in the floor. I've attached a simple drawing to better show what I mean.



I know I'd lose in lift the same amount as the lowering. I would frame/box in the 'storage area' so I could drop removable cover plates in place when the lift wasn't being used. Then I'd only have to worry about running into one of the lift posts.
I know the lift arms could probably be removed and I'd get just about the same effect, but again, I don't want to have to mess with removing them, storing them, reinstalling them, etc. I want the thing to be out of the way, but ready at the drop of a hat. hehe...
I did a pretty good search for something like this on the board, but the closest I got was a recessed table lift (also a great idea).
Other than the extra work for the concrete and slight loss of lift, anyone see an issue with this or has done this already?

NV

 

[aka Larry]

I don't want to be tripping over the lift arms when it's not being used.

How tall are you? If I raise my lift arms all the way I can walk under them.

To answer your question though, I don't see any real issue with your proposal.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I see it as a good way to break an ankle while using the lift.

 

[c39er]

I sunk my inground and am glad I did. I know how to not break my ankles.

 

[NHBandit]

So you'll have to also sink the posts the same amount because they aren't designed to work that way. And everytime you want to use it you'll have to raise the arms up however far you sunk them prior to swinging them under the car. I can tell you don't have alot of experience with 2 post lifts because with no weight on the arms it's not easy to simply raise them an exact amount. You let go of the button but they keep moving up a little under hydraulic pressure when there's no car on them. Therefore I can picture you bumping the "up" button repeatedly using quick bursts until the arms just clear the floor, then bending over to position them under the car.... Wait... oh ****... went too far.. got to lower them just a touch because they won't quite go under the car... more dicking around.... And then there's the procedure for putting it down when your done. Lower the car until the arms come away from the frame... bend over and position the arms perfectly in line with the recesses in the floor... lower the rest of the way. Instead of just kicking them out from under the car with your foot and calling it a day.. Yeah it sounds like it would be great fun to watch.... LoL Hope you're not offended by my blunt, to the point, style of answering. You asked for opinions. There's mine.

 

[aka Larry]

I sunk my inground and am glad I did. I know how to not break my ankles.

Pics?

 

[rsanter]

Potentially I like the idea if you are not going to use the lift much.

But the idea of raising them over head when not in use sounds easier

Bob

 

[NHBandit]

But the idea of raising them over head when not in use sounds easier

Bob

This is what I do and normally my 67 Camaro is on it and out of harms way. Lift it all the way and then lower it onto the mechanical locks so there's no strain on the hydraulics.

 

[Aahz]

There's a couple of issues with lowering the lift the way you suggest, but much of it depends on exactly what kind of lift you are going to get.

If you get a 2 post that doesn't have an overhead cross beam, that means the cables and hoses will be on the floor. You will need to extend your "trenching" between the columns to account for them, otherwise they won't fit the lift properly (not to mention being a major tripping hazard.

If you get an asymmetric lift, the arms don't typically swing the way you have them shown. They both (front and back arms) swing towards the rear of the vehicle. Your floor trench will be at least a foot wide to accommodate them, in addition to the hole you have dug for the column.

The arms on either a symmetric or asymmetric car lift have locking pins to keep the arms in position. In normal operation, the pin disengages the arm restraints when the carriage is in the fully lowered position. If you recess the base of the column below normal floor level, the pins will not automatically disengage, thus requiring you to manually disengage each arm.

The last point is that holes and pockets in floors collect dirt, dust, water and debris. That is not a good situation for any lift.

 

[c39er]

Pics?

The pics requested....I sunk these arms because I drive cars from the other side of the garage right over the arms to get the cars out this end bay door.

 

[CarCrafter]

The arms on either a symmetric or asymmetric car lift have locking pins to keep the arms in position. In normal operation, the pin disengages the arm restraints when the carriage is in the fully lowered position. If you recess the base of the column below normal floor level, the pins will not automatically disengage, thus requiring you to manually disengage each arm.

The last point is that holes and pockets in floors collect dirt, dust, water and debris. That is not a good situation for any lift.

I was going to respond with this, but Frank saved me the trouble.

 

[Aahz]

C39er...Interesting installation...is that an old Western Lift? The flip ups look like a Western, but I don't see many of those in my part of the country, so I'm not sure.

Your set-up is ideal for making sure low profile vehicles don't get hung up driving over the lift, but I would think the arm pockets in the floor make working around that lift a bit dicey. Maybe throwing a sheet of plywood over when you're working? Curious how you deal with that...

 

[senor fozz]

I see it as a good way to break an ankle while using the lift.

not if he puts the cover plates over holes while he works

 

[senor fozz]

There's a couple of issues with lowering the lift the way you suggest, but much of it depends on exactly what kind of lift you are going to get.

If you get a 2 post that doesn't have an overhead cross beam, that means the cables and hoses will be on the floor. You will need to extend your "trenching" between the columns to account for them, otherwise they won't fit the lift properly (not to mention being a major tripping hazard.

If you get an asymmetric lift, the arms don't typically swing the way you have them shown. They both (front and back arms) swing towards the rear of the vehicle. Your floor trench will be at least a foot wide to accommodate them, in addition to the hole you have dug for the column.

The arms on either a symmetric or asymmetric car lift have locking pins to keep the arms in position. In normal operation, the pin disengages the arm restraints when the carriage is in the fully lowered position. If you recess the base of the column below normal floor level, the pins will not automatically disengage, thus requiring you to manually disengage each arm.

The last point is that holes and pockets in floors collect dirt, dust, water and debris. That is not a good situation for any lift.

if that is an issue he can just take out the pins or have blocks that take up the space. Or use a lift that has the arm locks on the side.

 

[Shadowdog500]

Must be a pain using a Trans jack under that lift.

I've had my two post lift a few years now and never had a problem tripping over the arms. I think you are coming up with a solution for a problem that don't really exist. You may not like the recessed arms when you roll your tool cart or trans jack into the holes.

Chris

 

[c39er]

I have 3 lifts. The single post is used for brake work only. I don't use a cart or ****** jack under this single post. This sunken lift I installed in 1990. Have not tripped or fallen either. I think it works good for me.

 

[nvbigblue]

Thanks for all the input guys! And no, I don't get offended with blunt answers.

The way I envision this is that when I want to use the lift, I pull the cover plates, raise the lift arms, replace the cover plates and lower the lift arms down until they rest on the cover plates. The arm release pins should hit the cover plates and release the arms. Then I pull the car/truck in, swing arms under and adjust and raise like normal. After lowering, swing arms out from under, remove vehicle, align arms with cover plates, raise arms, remove cover plates, lower to stored position and replace cover plates.

Answers to comments:
Leave arms raised - I prefer things down.... just me.
Dirt/etc in storage areas - probably, but I have a shop vac.
Broken ankles - cover plates installed when using/not using lift.
Asymmetrical lift - nope
No overhead bar - ya, would have to trench across, but I think I prefer lifts that have a bar across the top.
Hydraulic creep - not an issue in use.

Yes, this could be a solution to a problem that doesn't exist , but some of this has to do with how my mezzanine is going to be placed, and the location of the support columns and stairs. Exposed lift arms could present an issue. But who knows.... the building is at least a year away from going up, so I may end up changing the entire layout....again.

Thanks!

NV

 

[NHBandit]

Thanks for all the input guys! And no, I don't get offended with blunt answers.

The way I envision this is that when I want to use the lift, I pull the cover plates, raise the lift arms, replace the cover plates and lower the lift arms down until they rest on the cover plates. The arm release pins should hit the cover plates and release the arms. Then I pull the car/truck in, swing arms under and adjust and raise like normal. After lowering, swing arms out from under, remove vehicle, align arms with cover plates, raise arms, remove cover plates, lower to stored position and replace cover plates.

Answers to comments:
Leave arms raised - I prefer things down.... just me.
Dirt/etc in storage areas - probably, but I have a shop vac.
Broken ankles - cover plates installed when using/not using lift.
Asymmetrical lift - nope
No overhead bar - ya, would have to trench across, but I think I prefer lifts that have a bar across the top.
Hydraulic creep - not an issue in use.

Yes, this could be a solution to a problem that doesn't exist , but some of this has to do with how my mezzanine is going to be placed, and the location of the support columns and stairs. Exposed lift arms could present an issue. But who knows.... the building is at least a year away from going up, so I may end up changing the entire layout....again.

Thanks!

NV

When I knew I was going to be able to build my dream garage I signed up on here. Spent many months looking at what others have done, drawing things out, erasing, asking questions, etc. So when the time finally came to actually do it I knew what I wanted and how to get there. It's all good.

 

[ScaldedDog]

Nvbigblue, what about a two column in-ground lift? I suppose you could even sink it the way you are describing, though no one would support the lift warranty that sort of install. It'd be slick, though, as you'd get rid of the posts, too.

Mark

 

[Cyberbear]

Because I won't be using my single post in-ground lift very often, I welded up a 4" channel iron frame put in place before the floor was poured. Inside the frame are hinged diamond plate covers that open with the lift and lay back down when in use and after, leaving a flush non-slip surface to walk over. I drop in a round plate to cover the post hole when not in use. When the lift is retracted you only see the double hinged galvanized diamond plate covers in the floor. I also provided for a liquid drain in the space below the lift to receive any spills or leaks. So far no problems.