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Supercoat Install

slonova

Member
Joined
Aug 27, 2007
Messages
13
Location
Las Cruces, NM
welp, here documents the "Supercoating" of my 485sq ft garage. I ordered 2 Supercoat Super Kits in Cobalt Blue from SamsClub.com.

Both kits came complete and within a week. The kits include a "Part A", "Part B" color choice (cobalt blue in my case) that mixes into "Part A", "Acrylic Glaze Coat", deco-chips, non-slip additive, degreaser floor cleaner, and 2 mixing sticks.

According to the instructions, each kit will cover approximately 250sq ft. They recommend two coats for the darker colors (blue and red). I wing it with 2 kits after reading somewhere (I can't remember where) that 1 kit covered near 400sq ft for them.

COST OF 2 KITS: approx $160 shipped

On to the install..

FLOOR PREP

Lucky me, my garage floor is basically virgin as far as coatings. The house is near new, lived in by a 90yr old man for about 6 months. No sealer on the floor as far as I could tell.

There was a lot of paint splatter all over the floor, though. There was also what appeared to be remnants of a larger paint spill that was haphazardly cleaned up.

The floor was covered in a coat of good ole New Mexico sand, so I swept it out then hit it with a 1500psi electric pressure washer I picked up from Home Depot for $50 on clearance. I spent a lot of time on the floor with this pressure washer, which worked flawlessly, btw. (phew; there were some worries about buying this cheap *** pressure washer :) )

After pressure washing thoroughly, removing a majority of the paint splatter, I broke out the hand (random orbital) sander with 60 grit to tackle the paint spill that the washer wouldn't bring all the way up. After I sanded up the spill, since I had the sander out I figured what the hell and went ahead and scuffed the whole floor with the 60 grit.

All scuffed up, I brought out the air compressor and used the air to push out the sanding dust and any remaining New Mexico dust. After this I used the degreaser included with the "Super Kit" and applied it according to the instructions. I then pressure washed again, mainly to ensure the floor was rinsed thoroughly.

I let it dry overnight and got ready to apply the first coat of paint the next morning

floor001.jpg


floor002.jpg


floor003.jpg
 
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Steve in Mi

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Mar 13, 2007
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1,042
Location
Mid Michigan
Do you think leaving it overnight is long enough for a wet cement floor to dry? Here in Michigan I think I'd give it a week with a dehumidifier running to dry it out. And that's with poly under the floor - no poly, maybe it would never get dry enough to coat it.
 

bmwpower

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Apr 24, 2005
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NJ
FINALLY. Someone using SuperCoat. That was my first choice some years ago, but went with SW instead. Would really like to see how it goes down.

Yea, I night is not going to be enough to dry the floor. I would wait at least a week. I waited 2 weeks for mine, but I was doing it in December.
 
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slonova

Member
Joined
Aug 27, 2007
Messages
13
Location
Las Cruces, NM
I could see that in a humid environment, but here there is about no humidity and only searing heat. in any case, the floor prep was completed early Friday afternoon. I started laying the first coat of paint down around 8pm on Saturday. The floor 'seemed' dry; I hope it was dry enough. If not, that's a helluva a lesson learned. haah.

The floor is "done" now (fingers crossed). The glaze coat is drying. I'll post the rest of the install and some more pics tomorrow.
 

bmwpower

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NM?.....You might be okay.

I want to see those picts!

I could see that in a humid environment, but here there is about no humidity and only searing heat. in any case, the floor prep was completed early Friday afternoon. I started laying the first coat of paint down around 8pm on Saturday. The floor 'seemed' dry; I hope it was dry enough. If not, that's a helluva a lesson learned. haah.

The floor is "done" now (fingers crossed). The glaze coat is drying. I'll post the rest of the install and some more pics tomorrow.
 
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slonova

Member
Joined
Aug 27, 2007
Messages
13
Location
Las Cruces, NM
First Coat

FIRST COAT

First, let me mention I have never really painted anything before. I've shot plenty of things with rattle can primer and made a few touch-ups here and there, but I've never used a paint roller for anything... with that in mind, here we go!


I mixed the "Part A" resin with the "Part B" color choice with the included mixing stick and poured about 1/3 of it into a disposable paint tray. I used a 3/8" non-shedding nap roller as directed by the instructions.

My wife was kind enough to use a brush to get into the edges while I started rolling it out. I just put it on the roller as evenly as possible and rolled it out as evenly as possible. I wasn't sure how thick I should be laying it so I sorta winged it and I ended up putting it on thin enough to cover the entire 485sq ft garage floor with a single, thin coat.


Being applied:
floor007.jpg


FYI: I didn't bother to tape off around the concrete footer because I plan on adding a black vinyl type baseboard later (for mostly aesthetic purposes).

After drying approx 16 hours:
floor013.jpg


floor014.jpg
 
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slonova

Member
Joined
Aug 27, 2007
Messages
13
Location
Las Cruces, NM
Second Coat

SECOND COAT

Well you could tell the first coat was laid pretty thin. There were some brush marks evident from where I put it on a little thicker in some sections.. I went into the second coat hoping to even it out significantly and eliminate the brush marks. I also added the included deco-chips at this point.

Rolled it out pretty much the same. It took a lot less for the second coat than the first (as would be expected) and you could tell right away the color was going to come out very rich after the second coat started; unlike the first coat pictures where it's kinda skyish blue.

I ended up using about 1/2 of the bag of deco-chips and here's what it ended up looking like after drying about 12 hours:

floor015.jpg


floor016.jpg


floor017.jpg


This last picture shows the difference from first coat to second coat, because we didn't go back around the edges with a brush for the second coat. We just rolled it out.
 

mhoffm911

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Sep 3, 2007
Messages
511
Pics look good. Few questions:

1. Why did you choose blue? Are you doing a theme around it?

2. How would you rate the install on a scale of 1-10?

3. What would you have done differently if you could have?

4. Does it feel slick or slippery?

5. Are you satisfied with the results?

6. Any areas peeling up or looking like they might?

Thanks in advance...I am looking at doing mine with the same product in the next few weeks.
 
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slonova

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Joined
Aug 27, 2007
Messages
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Location
Las Cruces, NM
1. Why did you choose blue? Are you doing a theme around it?

No theme going in, really. I had planned on doing a gray when I decided to do the floor. When I started researching products I checked out a lot of different peoples garage pictures and saw one that was done in a blue. I liked the way it looked and figured I'd just do it. I have black tool boxes, a black wall cabinet, black workbench, and I'm going to add a black vinyl baseboard. I think the black on blue will end up looking good.

2. How would you rate the install on a scale of 1-10?
8; going into this never having painted anything before I feel it went pretty easily. The instructions (http://www.supercoat.us/infocenter.aspx) were very detailed and I just went along with them. I had some difficulties with the glaze coat. It was just weird rolling on. It was like a watery milk and I had trouble determining what sections I had already gone over. Doing smaller sections would have probably helped this, and I'd chalk up my problems mostly to inexperience. BUT since I had two kits, I just went over the glaze coat again the next day and it solved my small missed spot problem.

3. What would you have done differently if you could have?
Well, let me floor dry and air out a big longer, I guess. Overall I am happy with how everything went.

4. Does it feel slick or slippery?
No, not at all. The deco chips make it un-slick by themselves, but I added the "non-slip additive" in the glaze coat also.


5. Are you satisfied with the results?
I am so far, but it's still early. I'm going to wait until Monday or so before I park the car in it.

6. Any areas peeling up or looking like they might?
Nope, not yet!
 
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slonova

Member
Joined
Aug 27, 2007
Messages
13
Location
Las Cruces, NM
Indeed a good deal, I think. Thanks for the comments!

Here's my (approx) associated costs:

- 2 Supercoat Super Kits w/ shipping (Samsclub.com) - $160
- 1 1500psi Electric Powerwasher (Home Depot) - $50
- 4 3/8" non-shedding nap rollers (Home Depot) - $14
- 1 paint roller w/ extended handle (Home Depot) - $7
- 1 Disposable paint tray pack (Home Depot) - $5

TOTAL APPROXIMATE COST: $236

Not too bad, I don't think.

I started parking on it on Monday. Still showing no signs of failure.. I'll post a couple pics with the glaze coat. It doesn't look -too- much different from the 2nd coat pics.
 

cw_racefan

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Joined
Feb 7, 2006
Messages
254
I also used Supercoat about 2 years ago. My only complaint is the glaze coat lifts and discolors with hot tires (at least mine is). I get tire tread marks where the hot tires sit. It also isn't gas resistant. The epoxy itself seems to be holding up very well though. For the price, I would use it again.

They have great customer service too. I had a couple of questions when I was applying it, and their email response time was great.
 
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slonova

Member
Joined
Aug 27, 2007
Messages
13
Location
Las Cruces, NM
So we're at what, about a year and a half since I did this, and it still looks great. No failure from hot or wet tires. No stains. I've put some scratches in it by dragging some furniture across it (oops), but other then that.. flawless!
 

Groceryhauler

Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2009
Messages
5
Location
Iowa
Great!! Thanks for the update...It's always nice to hear how a floor turned out after years of use. A pretty good investment for $236!!
 

SUPERCOAT

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Joined
Aug 11, 2009
Messages
75
Location
Oklahoma City, OK, USA
Glad to hear your floor is doing well!

I have not heard many complaints about the Residential Glaze Coat (that comes in the Super Kit at Sam's Club) coming off due to hot tires. However, being an acrylic, we are aware that it doesn't have the wearability of the epoxy and we recommend stripping and re-coating with the glaze every couple of years to maintain the gloss.

Another option is to use our Industrial Glaze Coat, which is a two-part waterborne urethane. It holds up to virtually anything!

http://www.supercoat.us
 
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