support garage doors

[mike's48]

Hey guys , Im trying to figure out the best way to support the track that hangs from the ceiling 5' and 10' away. anybody got any picts or ideas?
Thanx ,
Mike

 

[nova65ss]

We usually use punched angle iron.

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=41183

 

[Torque1st]

I second that. It can be picked up at the local home box, hardware, or farm store.

 

[mike's48]

Thanx guys,
I just went and bought 10' perf. angle iron from lowes @ 15.00 per stick. I need 12 pc. Couldnt I use 2x4s cheeper for the same reason and match the interior of my garage?
Thanx,
Mike

 

[kbs2244]

I would guess that you could make a square truss, like the ones they use for flooring joists. Maybe skin it with ply to stiffen it.
I would want to screw and glue it when making it and to the real structure though.
It will see more vibration than a normal wall.
The far end will need left to right bracing also.

 

[kenfath]

The "pro" who installed two doors at my son's home used 1/2" thin wall conduit (EMT) for supports. He had a vice and small drill press mounted on a portable work table. He cut the EMT to the needed length, flattened the ends using the vise, then drill holes for short 5/16th inch carriage bolts or lag bolts. I was skeptical when I saw what he was about to do but it became quickly apparent he knew what he was doing. The finished result was as good as the punched angles.

 

[nova65ss]

Thanx guys,
I just went and bought 10' perf. angle iron from lowes @ 15.00 per stick. I need 12 pc. Couldnt I use 2x4s cheeper for the same reason and match the interior of my garage?
Thanx,
Mike

I would think for a 10' drop or even 5' the 2 x's will want to warp over time. They did use 2 x's back in the day though when the drop was only a couple of feet.

On another note though you do not want to buy angle at Lowes or the Depot unless you want to pay triple than the supply houses.

 

[mike's48]

Thanx guys,
Im headed back to Lowes tomorrow for a refund. I think if I build a stiff-back from a 2x6 and 2x4 it will keep it from worping and twisting and lumber is cheeper than steel now!
I think I will build a truss system with screws and glue
that should make the inspector happy..I'll find out when he gets here.

 

[Torque1st]

Nevermind I see you have to drop a long way...

 

[mike's48]

Finally got a picture to come up... now u c what I have to do. Thanx for any help/picts or whatever.
Mike

 

[blkhonda1991]

Finally got a picture to come up... now u c what I have to do. Thanx for any help/picts or whatever.
Mike

that is quite a distance...how come you didnt add a second floor with all of that vertical space?

 

[kbs2244]

With all that open wall above the door I would go higher before I made the bend and went horizonal.
Do a search. We have had lots of guys do this.
It takes different springs, but it gives you a lot more of virtical space close to the door.

 

[timgr]

I would build/buy a L-shaped truss to go across the ends of the tracks and back to the end wall. Then I'd hang the outer corner from the ceiling. Whatever you hang the corner with would only see a tension load - you could use a couple of lengths of the punched angle for that.

 

[Qman]

i would build a storage loft then hang it off that......

 

[Junkman]

Damn..... I just clicked on the picture, and when it opened, it started to download something to my computer. I don't know what it was, but I couldn't even close the window the picture was in. I had to manually shut the power to my computer to stop it. Has anyone else run into this?

 

[Charles (in GA)]

I'd be inclined to raise the header and make that door at least one panel higher. That extra height will be handy on occasion. Otherwise, as others have noted, I'd reconfigure the tracks to run up further before they run horizontal, why waste the space.

Charles

 

[mike's48]

Im installing a 2 posted lift on one side so I wanted the overhead space. I also like the open space. I like the idea of a shelf above so I might build a shelf/support and see how that does. If I need storage ,I can always build a floor on one side for that, but now it will stay open.
Mike
sorry junkman, hope you didnt get anything from my pict!

 

[rufcar]

I am a builder. restorer and millworker.WE even Manufacture our our garage doors to look like carrage house doors! First, are you planning to ever build a 2nd floor? If not just get tracks and lifts for a vertical door! Most of all my garages have that! 2nd if you do not plan to build a 2nd floor Id lower your collar ties (the horazontial beams) at the top! By code there suppose to be 1/3 of the way from the top roof rafters to the to bottom wall plate! Other wise a good snow load will crush your building by causing the downward load to push out the side walls! Good luck. Jim Facinelli

 

[mike's48]

Thanx Jim,
No I do not plan on putting a second floor and my ties are 1/3 on the rafters for our code here also, but thay are still 10' and 5' on both doors.
Mike

 

[nissan_crawler]

I would be bracing it to the wall, not the ceiling. Just brace the end of the tracks to the track supports up by the collar ties, then brace those braces to the center support up by the collar tie.

 

[rufcar]

Mike, I know its a pain but based on the design and finished product Id make the doors 4'-6' higher! Id install a new header just below the top vertical wall plate. (Someone else also suggested this!) You will thank us a 1000 times over ! Trust me! Then you can attach the right side to the rafter and then install the necessary right angel material either wood or punched steel on the left side! Jim

 

[mike's48]

kant do Jim .The headers will have to stay put. this is why :

I think I will either use kindorff strut or build a strongback
from 2x4s and 2x6s to span the width of my Garage then sttach the perf.angle that came with the door.
Mike

 

[nissan_crawler]

 

[Charles (in GA)]

You could easily raise those headers by one more door panel in height. At least one of the doors. I know the angle of the pic distorts the view, but it looks like your van will just barely clear the door, what happens when you decide to add a roof rack?

My place is a little different, it was primarily built as an aircraft hangar, but my garage door is 14 ft high, just like the aircraft doors on the other end. The height is nice, very useful.

Charles

 

[Junkman]

I had the normal 7' doors on my garage, and it was fine when we had normal cars. When I got my first ambulance, I learned then that it wouldn't fit into the garage unless I drove around back to the rear door, which was a 9' x 9'. That didn't work well, so I had the front door raised to a 10' x 10'. I only wish that I had done this during the construction phase because it would have been a lot faster and less costly. The house even looks better with the higher door. You can never have a garage door that is too high!!

 

[rufcar]

I agree with "Charles", you can still raise the header a good 2-3'! Then tie off as "Crawler" says and shows on his sketch! That way if you do historic trim like I do you can still add the heavy moldings under the over hangs and still have a higher door! "Dont forget the recessed spots centered over the doors in the over hang! jim

 

[mike's48]

I thank you all so much for your time and input over my delima! I am already in the hole with the price of lumber and other things(not added in) so I think I will do like nissan crawler is reccomending. My van will fit even with a rack because my drive hasen't been leveled yet, the gravel is still pilled up and that will be another expence to fix my drive, but thats just part of it all.
Thanx again for all your help. Hope to send picts as I go along.
Have a great week,
Mike