Surely this isn't code compliant

[zr52002]

Hey all. Just had an electrician add a few 240v circuits in my garage condo. I feel like this isn't quite right.

All of the receptacles are Leviton 2620's - NEMA L6-30R.

Two of them are fished through the wall with MC cable. They run to fairly shallow single gang boxes, though, and the MC cable isn't connected to the box - as pictured below. I'm guessing because box isn't big enough for the receptacle to physically fit with the MC cable connected properly. Assuming I should make the electrician return and replace that with a double gang box?



I'm not sure if this is a code issue, but this is gross too. I've never seen somebody use a mud ring and wall plate like this.


For wall plates, they just took blank single gang plates, drilled out a big hole, then screwed the wall plate on through the ears in the receptacle. I provided the receptacles (at electrician's request since I wanted a locking receptacle) so I'm sympathetic to them not having the right covers on hand, but I'd rather they told me to order the right covers than just cobble it like this.

I think the right things to do here are:

1) Make them come replace the in-wall boxes with double gang boxes. (edit: Or just a deeper box - ironically I just looked at an identical receptacle I put in my garage and it fits in a deep single-gang box fine, and correct cover is readily available)
2) Get factory double-gang covers for those receptacles.
3) Swap out the mud ring and field modified covers for a metal cover for the 4" square boxes that's meant for a single 30A receptacle.

thanks,

Joe

 

[Neggy]

JFC where did you find that Electrician, I have seen first year Voke students do better.

 

[zr52002]

JFC where did you find that Electrician, I have seen first year Voke students do better.

This guy's crews wired the building originally as well as all the newer buildings in the complex.

 

[510ebl]

I am not an electrician, but ought a 30a receptacle be mounted to a box installed in drywall using Madison bars? Seem not too…secure. I guess I thought they were more for switch boxes.

 

[eejack]

The madison bars are not an issue, however, not snapping in the mc connector is. Instead of a snap in, the electrician could have used one with locknut. If you are concerned about the box depth, they make those boxes up to 3 1/2 inches deep.

As far as the mud ring ...ummm... situation. The box is called a 1900 box and they make a cover for that receptacle and that box. This would be an example of such...

Steel City 2-Gang 4 in. Square Metal Electrical Box Cover for Single Twist Lock Receptacle (Case of 10) RS4-10R

www.homedepot.com

but lots of folks make them, and they make them in all sorts of configurations.

If you are gonna do any of this yourself, test before you touch any wires.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

thats some sloppy work. definitely make him come out and fix it.

Did he use 10/2 MC? almost looks like #12.

what are these outlets going to be used for?

 

[alfredeneuman]

I agree that it looks like #12.
A twistlock in any box supported with only drywall or plaster is less than desired because the box is likely to come loose because of the twisting motion.

 

[Terry D]

That connector on your first picture was not pushed all the way in when installed. They will not push out when installed correctly. Only way to get them out is to pop off the retaining ring. Plus he did not bond the box

As far as the mud ring being used on exposed work, I have seen it done , I think it looks like ****. For one it violates the 1/8 inch max gap around a cover. We have some jurisdictions here that will fail a install like that. I'm sure he did not have the proper raised cover on his truck.

 

[zr52002]

thats some sloppy work. definitely make him come out and fix it.

Did he use 10/2 MC? almost looks like #12.

what are these outlets going to be used for?

A couple over the outlets are #12 and on a 20A breaker, I'm running s smaller lathe, mill, and bandsaw on those. A couple are #10 and 30A breaker for welder and air compressor. I just had him use the 30A receptacles on everything because that's what's already on all the equipment (was previously running them at home all off a single 30A receptacle and an extension cord).

 

[zr52002]

That connector on your first picture was not pushed all the way in when installed. They will not push out when installed correctly. Only way to get them out is to pop off the retaining ring. Plus he did not bond the box

I'm guessing they didn't snap those in (or took them back out) because the boxes used aren't real deep and you probably can't physically get the receptacle in if it's snapped in.

 

[zr52002]

Thanks, everyone, for confirming what I thought. I picked up the right covers at Menard's today so I'm set there.

I'm gonna send him pics of the MC not being snapped in and see what he says. Does make me wonder if he actually pulled the building permit I got charged for.

 

[sparky 1971]

He probably couldn't get the connector snapped in. The snap in connectors are a real ***** in an old work situation. Sigma makes a type that will snap in from inside the box, I'm sure other manufacturers have them too. It's what I use, and if I don't have any, I use the old style with a locknut.

 

[Neggy]

call the inspectors office and ask,

also tell him you want a copy for your records

 

[alfredeneuman]

Does make me wonder if he actually pulled the building permit I got charged for.

There is supposed to be a card that the inspector signs after each passed inspection posted "conspicuously" on the job.
It's required

 

[zr52002]

There is supposed to be a card that the inspector signs after each passed inspection posted "conspicuously" on the job.
It's required

That varies regionally, I think. I've pulled permits for work at my own house before and never had such a card to post.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

A couple over the outlets are #12 and on a 20A breaker, I'm running s smaller lathe, mill, and bandsaw on those. A couple are #10 and 30A breaker for welder and air compressor. I just had him use the 30A receptacles on everything because that's what's already on all the equipment (was previously running them at home all off a single 30A receptacle and an extension cord).

What's the HP rating on the compressor motor? IF more than 3HP it should be hardwired not cord and plug connected.

 

[alfredeneuman]

IF more than 3HP it should be hardwired not cord and plug connected

Have you forgotten already?
NEMA 14-60 is rated 3.5 HP
EDIT: any motor can be cord connected but it's prohibitively expensive

 

[zr52002]

What's the HP rating on the compressor motor? IF more than 3HP it should be hardwired not cord and plug connected.

It's under 3HP - that might actually just have a 20A breaker on it but I had him run 10 gauge wire so I have more options when this compressor needs replaced.

 

[alfredeneuman]

30Amp twistlock receptacles and plugs are rated 2 HP Max

 

[u2slow]

Depends on the motor. You can buy ~3HP tools that come with factory-attached 6-20p cords.

 

[Meursault74]

...

 

[nadogail]

Apparently your "electrician" has no shame.

 

[Syberia]

I'd be embarrassed to have done that for myself, let alone for someone who paid me to do it right.

 

[alfredeneuman]

Depends on the motor. You can buy ~3HP tools that come with factory-attached 6-20p cords.

Wouldn't cutting the plug off and replacing it with one meant for a larger circuit violate the listing (UL or an equivalent)?

 

[u2slow]

Wouldn't cutting the plug off and replacing it with one meant for a larger circuit violate the listing (UL or an equivalent)?

Probably. Doesn't matter much. 6-20R is widely used in my shop.

An adapter cord is another route... then you're only violating your own principles.

 

[alfredeneuman]

6-20R is widely used in my shop

A 6-20R is also rated @2HP

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Have you forgotten already?
NEMA 14-60 is rated 3.5 HP
EDIT: any motor can be cord connected but it's prohibitively expensive

those are not stocked at any of the big box stores or supply houses here. special order....

sure any motor can be cord and plug connected but i highly doubt most on this forum will want to spend that kind of money so i dont bother mentioning it....

Depends on the motor. You can buy ~3HP tools that come with factory-attached 6-20p cords.

those are factory listed. a NEMA plug on the store shelf will not have the same HP rating

Wouldn't cutting the plug off and replacing it with one meant for a larger circuit violate the listing (UL or an equivalent)?

yes that would violate the listing...most dont care

 

[alfredeneuman]

those are factory listed. a NEMA plug on the store shelf will not have the same HP rating

But the receptacle is only rated for 2HP

 

[u2slow]

But the receptacle is only rated for 2HP

3HP machines rarely (if ever) have that rating marked.... mine says 'SPL' instead. The UL/CSA listed manufacturer gets a loophole.