Surface mount fixtures on Hardie plank

[jmarkwolf]

I need to install 6 fixtures (coach lights, flood lights, external outlet) on my new 2-story garage. The siding is Hardie plank.

I want to avoid cutting big rectangular holes to accomodate "internal" electrical boxes 6 times, particularly for the two flood lights that are about 25feet up.

The shallow "surface mount" fixture boxes would require only 3 quick round holes to mount. Would this be a practical and reliable alternative?

Would toggle bolts, or standard nuts and bolts, through the underlying 3/4" OSB be adequate and pass inspection as a mounting method?

 

[kd3pc]

Depending on your AHJ, you may be able to do what we do in TN....a 3/4" hole with a bushing for the electric cabling to pass through to your light fixture. Then either toggles or appropriate sheet metal screws to attach the fixture mounting plate.

In our area, as long as it is "firmly" attached, you are good to go.

 

[Falcon67]

This is backed up by a bit of 2x and uses a 3/4" hole to pass the power.

Backside

Basically the same deal on my security light under the eves - was not in the mood to try and cut or drill 4" holes for boxes in Hardi. It was hard enough - and costly (three hole saws and a bunch of saber saw blades) - to cut the vent holes in the eves.

 

[Fyrme]

I need to install 6 fixtures (coach lights, flood lights, external outlet) on my new 2-story garage. The siding is Hardie plank.

I want to avoid cutting big rectangular holes to accomodate "internal" electrical boxes 6 times, particularly for the two flood lights that are about 25feet up.

The shallow "surface mount" fixture boxes would require only 3 quick round holes to mount. Would this be a practical and reliable alternative?

Would toggle bolts, or standard nuts and bolts, through the underlying 3/4" OSB be adequate and pass inspection as a mounting method?

Yes, you could use what are called pancake boxes. They are about 1/2" thick and you could toggle them through the hardie and the OSB backer and surface mount them. Drill a 1" hole through the siding and install a plastic romex bushing into the box, push your romex through and mount and wire it up. That should make it NEC compliant.

 

[Fyrme]

This is backed up by a bit of 2x and uses a 3/4" hole to pass the power.

Backside

Basically the same deal on my security light under the eves - was not in the mood to try and cut or drill 4" holes for boxes in Hardi. It was hard enough - and costly (three hole saws and a bunch of saber saw blades) - to cut the vent holes in the eves.

What you have done IS legal because your terminations are in a UL rated junction box. The coach lights in question require a enclosure to mount to. You can not just mount it to a unrated surface (ie; the siding)

 

[jmarkwolf]

Anybody have any experience with this product?

This one is the Arlington model # 8131-1. They claim a "built-in box", and have several models to choose from for fitting a variety of siding configurations. They say it is UL approved, but make no comment of NEC approved.

 

[Fyrme]

I've never seen one of those, butI don't see why it wouldn't work. You will probably never see a electrical product say it is NEC approved. Most UL products are accepted by NEC. NEC is more of a regulation on how you are to use and install materials.
This is a Pancake box It should fit inside the trim of the coach light allowing the trim to sit flush to the wall. There is a chance that it will not fit completely inside the trim and be somewhat exposed. You could also use a deep cut in box and cut through the siding where ever you want it.

 

[matt8828]

Before you star cutting through the siding, you need to check with the install guidelines for James Hardie on penetrations. It will affect your warranty.