Surface mount LED fixture - replaceable tubes with cover

[Shovelhead]

Looking for quality LED fixtures that are surface mount, have replaceable tubes with a diffuser lens / cover.
Probably a 3 bulb fixture. Most I see are all exposed bulbs that won't get along too well when a feller flips an 8 or 10 foot board.

This area of shop is 16w x 30d, 10' ceiling.
Wiring will be within the joists.
Ceiling will be WOOD. Likely beadboard or similar.
Would be nice to not have to run wire to boxes, just fixture to fixture.
Probably 3 rows running the 30', each row switched.

Yes, I've read the famous lighting sticky, does me not much good.

Thanks

 

[The Cobbler]

I would ( and have) used fluorescent fixtures, remove the ballasts, rewired and used LED ballast by pass bulbs.
you may or may not need to replace the tombstone , depending on the requirements of the LED bulbs

 

[Shovelhead]

Don’t want to repurpose old fixtures.
New shop, new lights.
I can re-rig with the best of em, but not for this deal.

 

[Firebrick43]

There are no new led lights with replaceable tubes. The tubes were made to retrofit florescent lights
Take that back there are a few.

https://www.prolighting.com/t442ssubcxx00p0-18w5k.html

https://www.superbrightleds.com/t8-...860&utm_content=Bing General Shopping Adgroup

 

[sparky 1971]

Don’t want to repurpose old fixtures.
New shop, new lights.
I can re-rig with the best of em, but not for this deal.

You don't have to buy old lights. You can buy new florescents with a wrap around lens cheap. Then install ballast bypass lamps. If it were mine, I'd roll with the florescents and wait till the ballasts fail before making the conversion.

I personally wouldn't use this one because the lenses break too easily, but it's an option.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lithoni...ty-Light-Wraparound-3348-2L32W-WRAP/100654395

This is a better lens.

Lithonia Lighting SB 2 32 120 GESB 4 ft. Wraparound Fluorescent White Ceiling Fixture SB 2 32 120 GESB - The Home Depot

Use this UL listed Lithonia Lighting Wraparound Fluorescent Ceiling Fixture for residential and light commercial applications.

www.homedepot.com

 

[The Cobbler]

^^^ that's what I did in my shop. got a deal on new fluorescent fixtures. was going to retrofit them, but then got a deal ( free) on new bulbs from a building I used to work in. they converted to LED & were tossing the fluorescent tubes spares
At this moment I have little desire to replace them for LED , unless they fail. the payback is long in to the future IMO

 

[Shovelhead]

This is one of the few I’ve found but don’t know about the quality.

4ft LED Strip Light Fixture with Diffuser Lens - 3 18W T8 Tubes Included - 6900 Lumens - 4000K / 5000K

The 4-foot LED ready strip light fixture has non–shunted sockets to operate single-end Type B T8 tubes, which are included. Replace traditional fluorescent fixtures using three 32-watt fluorescent bulbs, lowering energy and maintenance costs. The included diffuser lens creates a uniform light...

www.superbrightleds.com

 

[sparky 1971]

This is one of the few I’ve found but don’t know about the quality.

4ft LED Strip Light Fixture with Diffuser Lens - 3 18W T8 Tubes Included - 6900 Lumens - 4000K / 5000K

The 4-foot LED ready strip light fixture has non–shunted sockets to operate single-end Type B T8 tubes, which are included. Replace traditional fluorescent fixtures using three 32-watt fluorescent bulbs, lowering energy and maintenance costs. The included diffuser lens creates a uniform light...

www.superbrightleds.com

That type that has the lens tuck inside the fixture are a pita. It won't require removal for lamp changes very often, but when it happens it's harder than it looks without cracking the lens. The type where the lens hooks outside the fixture are much more user friendly. Apart from that, a fixture is a fixture. It's just sheet metal, sockets, and some 16 gauge wire. They are all pretty much the same.

 

[Shovelhead]

Rather not start off with fluorescent simply because of the cold temperature performance.
And I’d be having them bastards treed daily just waiting to make them in to what I want to begin with.
No re-rigging is what I prefer.

I may wind up with fixtures similar to the Maxlite integrated LED I installed in the main shop area. They were high dollar but they sure are nice. For now.
Some say they will fail and then yer stuck trying to match them someday. Who knows.

Thought I may opt for the type I could put new bulbs in.

 

[The Cobbler]

LED bulbs & tubes will fail . guaranteed. be it 2 yrs, 5 yrs, 10 yrs, whatever
I think going with replaceable bulbs is a good move for the long term.

 

[Shovelhead]

That type that has the lens tuck inside the fixture are a pita. It won't require removal for lamp changes very often, but when it happens it's harder than it looks without cracking the lens. The type where the lens hooks outside the fixture are much more user friendly. Apart from that, a fixture is a fixture. It's just sheet metal, sockets, and some 16 gauge wire. They are all pretty much the same.

Thanks for the heads up on that. I really didn’t study how the lens attached.
I agree with the rest.

 

[Shovelhead]

Appreciate y’all’s input, really do.
Keep it coming. I’m fixing to hit the hay. There’s fish that need caught in the morning.

 

[roc_on_the_rocks]

These are not replaceable tubes, but are high quality, that's what I'm planning for my 2-car garage:

Lithonia CSS LED Strip Light

 

[sparky 1971]

Rather not start off with fluorescent simply because of the cold temperature performance.
And I’d be having them bastards treed daily just waiting to make them in to what I want to begin with.
No re-rigging is what I prefer.

I may wind up with fixtures similar to the Maxlite integrated LED I installed in the main shop area. They were high dollar but they sure are nice. For now.
Some say they will fail and then yer stuck trying to match them someday. Who knows.

Thought I may opt for the type I could put new bulbs in.

Modern T8 fluorescents don't have much of a problem with cold starts. I'm in Iowa and below 0° nights are fairly common in January/February. My lights have all been converted to LED, but when they were fluorescent, it was less than a minute before they were full bright. You would be looking at years before having a ballast fail, and you could start off with ballast compatible tubes. The tubes I use will work with or without a ballast and single or double ended. I've supplied them for businesses that had the maintenance man swap out with the existing flourescents, then, when the ballast fails, I go in and rewire the fixture using the same lamps.

 

[Cougar]

Modern T8 fluorescents don't have much of a problem with cold starts. I'm in Iowa and below 0° nights are fairly common in January/February. My lights have all been converted to LED, but when they were fluorescent, it was less than a minute before they were full bright. You would be looking at years before having a ballast fail, and you could start off with ballast compatible tubes. The tubes I use will work with or without a ballast and single or double ended. I've supplied them for businesses that had the maintenance man swap out with the existing flourescents, then, when the ballast fails, I go in and rewire the fixture using the same lamps.

I like this idea.
What tubes do you use.

 

[sparky 1971]

I like this idea.
What tubes do you use.

The mcled in the bottom left of page 4.

Edition Not Found :( :(

sitler-supplies.dcatalog.com

 

[Shovelhead]

The tubes I use will work with or without a ballast and single or double ended. I've supplied them for businesses that had the maintenance man swap out with the existing flourescents, then, when the ballast fails, I go in and rewire the fixture using the same lamps.

What exactly is required when the ballast fails as far as rewiring?
Cut the ballast loose and then what?

Thanks

 

[sparky 1971]

What exactly is required when the ballast fails as far as rewiring?
Cut the ballast loose and then what?

Thanks

Connect all of the wires at one end to the neutral and all of the wires at the other end to the hot. It really is that simple. It takes longer to get the cover off and the old lamps out than it does to retro it to led. This is the only place I use Wago connectors because it's lightning fast.

 

[Shovelhead]

Thanks. Well that tells me the LED lamps require no type of “driver” .
All they require is the correct fitting base(tombstone).
I reckon no different than replacing incandescent bulbs in standard lamp bases.

I haven’t studied it but from seeing posts on here it seemed there was more to it to “convert” the old ballast fixtures.

 

[sparky 1971]

I haven’t studied it but from seeing posts on here it seemed there was more to it to “convert” the old ballast fixtures.

This is GJ, where the simplest of tasks becomes a contest to see who can come up with the most difficult way to accomplish it.

 

[billconner]

Thanks. Well that tells me the LED lamps require no type of “driver” .

It's built into these lamps, just like most LED retrofit lamps. Which is too bad since the LEDs will likely not fail but the driver will.

 

[Shovelhead]

This is GJ, where the simplest of tasks becomes a contest to see who can come up with the most difficult way to accomplish it.

LMAO !

 

[Shovelhead]

Like to revisit this about using a brand new fluorescent fixture and using ballast bypass LED bulbs.

Without cutting the ballast lose, it will still be in service with the LED tubes, right?
So you could still get the ballast noise , if any, and slow start up or flickering, eventually, right?

If the ballast will eventually be a problem, due to failure, noise, or slow to start, then it seems I just as well cut the thing lose before installing the fixtures. That being said, ain't that a waste of perfectly good ballasts? Like throwing money away to me.

I'm starting with a clean slate, new installation. It will drive me nuts to put something up with the mindset of re-rigging it all when it craps out.

Back to my original question. Are there no surface mount fixtures available like I'm looking for with the repalceable LED bulbs?Or is it simply less costly to re-rig the brand new fluorescent fixtures.

Thanks

 

[The Cobbler]

I hear what you're saying re the tossing the ballasts , but electricians often used to by fixtures just for the ballast because they could get them cheaper , and toss the fixture

 

[cybrdyke]

There are many manufacturers that make no-ballast fixtures that are pre-wired for LED tubes. TechBrite, Eiko, Maxlite all do it. You can get strips, troffers, highbays, vaportights and more. Look for the term "LED-ready" or "Tube-ready" when searching for them. Buying a ballasted fixture just to tear the ballast out is a waste of time and money.
Frankly, if you're doing new construction, get new fully integrated LED strip fixtures. They outperform and outlast tubes by a mile. They are available in very small profiles. The cost has come down alot, so they're competitive with the cost of LED-ready fixtures + the cost of the tubes. Plus, they're controllable.
Good luck,
CD

 

[Shovelhead]

Hey cyber, I appreciate your suggestion on the powpak gizmo. I am very very pleased.
Used it on the high bays in the open part of my shop. Here’s an action photo. LOL

Take care

 

[Shovelhead]

There are many manufacturers that make no-ballast fixtures that are pre-wired for LED tubes. TechBrite, Eiko, Maxlite all do it. You can get strips, troffers, highbays, vaportights and more. Look for the term "LED-ready" or "Tube-ready" when searching for them.

Man I have searched. In fact just searched tech bright led ready and all i see with a diffuser, lens, cover, whatever the hell the correct term is, are those vapor tight outfits that look like they belong in a submarine, or a Substation battery room.

 

[sparky 1971]

Like to revisit this about using a brand new fluorescent fixture and using ballast bypass LED bulbs.

Without cutting the ballast lose, it will still be in service with the LED tubes, right?
So you could still get the ballast noise , if any, and slow start up or flickering, eventually, right?

If the ballast will eventually be a problem, due to failure, noise, or slow to start, then it seems I just as well cut the thing lose before installing the fixtures. That being said, ain't that a waste of perfectly good ballasts? Like throwing money away to me.

I'm starting with a clean slate, new installation. It will drive me nuts to put something up with the mindset of re-rigging it all when it craps out.

Back to my original question. Are there no surface mount fixtures available like I'm looking for with the repalceable LED bulbs?Or is it simply less costly to re-rig the brand new fluorescent fixtures.

Thanks

The new electronic ballasts are pretty much noise free. If you decide to go that route and use LED tubes in them from the start, make sure they are ballast compatible AND will also work as a ballast bypass for when the ballast decides to quit. There is no slow start to the LED lamps, no flickering either. If I were in your shoes and definitely wanting to go with a wrap around fixture, I'd get T8 fluorescents and use the fluorescent lamps until the ballast quits. It should be years before you have to do anything with them.

It all really comes down to how much money you want to spend. Personally, I wouldn't use the wrap around fixtures and would get strip lights that are already set up for the ballast bypass lamps. I understand about being concerned about smacking the fixture with a piece of lumber, but if that happens, the lens is a goner anyway and then you have an oddball fixture with no lens. The tubes I get are plastic and Lord knows I've dropped plenty. The only times there was an issue with them being dropped was when the lamp landed on the end and bent or broke the pins.

 

[cybrdyke]

Man I have searched. In fact just searched tech bright led ready and all i see with a diffuser, lens, cover, whatever the hell the correct term is, are those vapor tight outfits that look like they belong in a submarine, or a Substation battery room.

https://techbrite.com/surface-wrap-led-tubes-2/

STRIP—LED TUBES | TechBrite

techbrite.com

https://websvc.maxlite.com/api/items/documents/LSU2XT8USE4806?type=datasheet

 

[Shovelhead]

Thanks Sparky. Good point about smacking the lens and busting it. Can’t disagree with that. My last shop had a much smaller woodworking room with a 10’ Sheetrock ceiling and in 27 yrs had no mashed fixture lens or holes poked in the ceiling, so I must not be too wreckless. LOL

 

[Shovelhead]

https://techbrite.com/surface-wrap-led-tubes-2/

STRIP—LED TUBES | TechBrite

techbrite.com

https://websvc.maxlite.com/api/items/documents/LSU2XT8USE4806?type=datasheet

Man yer hell when yer well ain’t ya.
I never looked at those companies websites. I was searching at a few vendors.
I like that surface wrap, after my search abilities on it I’ve found it at one place. Warehouse lighting.

Going to call a couple places today or tomorrow and see about the two TechBright you have listed. Strip fixture will save me some dollars for sure.
Made in USA

 

[Shovelhead]

Done deal, got 8 of these on the FedEx stagecoach headed to Texas.

https://www.prolighting.com/brands/...ures/led-ready-stp/t443ssubcxx00p0-18w5k.html

Thanks again for y'alls input.

 

[Cougar]

The mcled in the bottom left of page 4.

Edition Not Found :( :(

sitler-supplies.dcatalog.com

Thanks