Surface mount or flush mount

[hunterguy86]

I'm currently building a 24x30 detached shop. I have a 40 space, 80 circuit square d homeline load center that will be installed as a sub panel in the shop.

Way overkill for the 100 amps I'll be bringing in but more space in the panel is not a bad thing.

The shop will have finished walls but an open ceiling. Wall covering will more than likely be 1/2" plywood.

The walls are 2x4, 16" centers. Roof trusses are steel. Exterior walls and roof will be mueller r panel metal.

The home runs will be done in 12/2 mc cable and then 12/2 Romex in the protected wall spaces. I will be using the mc in the open attic space for the protection the armor provides from rodents and such. Bigger cable will be run to devices as required.

On to the question.

Would it be better to flush mount the panel or surface mount it? I want it to look decent but want easy access for future additions as required.

Thanks for any advice.


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[hunterguy86]

Here's a photo of where the panel will go. You can see the power pole/main panel in the back ground.





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[astroracer]

Up to you. With plywood wall covering it would be easy enough to make a couple of panels, top and bottom, as easily removed access panels. A few drywall screws and off they come...
Mark

 

[teamo]

If it is a finished wall then I would flush mount it. If you flush mount it I would put an access panel above or below the panel depending on where you bring the circuit cables in so you can get access to run new circuits in the future.

 

[cbogg]

You might be able to "semi" flush mount it too. Some panels, I didn't check the manual for this one, you can recess it a bit to bring stuff in behind the wall but have it out enough to add conduit or mc to it externally. That might be helpful if you were planning to add a 240 outlet nearby for a welder or compressor or something later.

 

[nadogail]

In my home, during a remodel project I cut a large, 12" high opening above the panel, between the two studs on either side of of the panel.

When it became time to repair the wall I used a nicely painted metal plate with washer headed screws.

This left me with a very professional access panel for the inevitable future work.

 

[simpler=better]

x3, recess it and make an access panel above it. You can even trim it with something purdy to keep it looking nice.

 

[Vegaman_Dan]

Since you have to keep a fairly large space around it clear for code clearance (24" in either direction for my area), you won't be saving any space for having it flush mounted versus surface. I think it's more a cosmetic issue- do you want to have exposed conduit running to it on the outside of the walls or will the wiring be in wall? That's the question that would decide it for me.

 

[hunterguy86]

I'm leaning towards flush mounting the box. It just ***** to block all those knock outs on the side of the box.


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[astroracer]

Don't block them. Frame in a box (like for a window) and mount the panel flat, to a sheet of plywood, fitted to the box. Leaves plenty of room around the box for wires.
Mark

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

Are you rocking the ceiling,will attic be accessable?
If youll have access to the attic later Id stuff a couple of pieces of 1 1/2-2" pvc from top of panel up through top plate of wall into the attic as a chase for future wires.
If you think youll need more than 40 spaces in your panel for some reason Id set a sub panel next to it,The price of a bunch of tandem breakers would more than pay for a sub panel and would look better.

 

[hunterguy86]

Don't block them. Frame in a box (like for a window) and mount the panel flat, to a sheet of plywood, fitted to the box. Leaves plenty of room around the box for wires.

Mark

I like this idea. Does code allow it to have a door or does the panel need to be visible?


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[hunterguy86]

Are you rocking the ceiling,will attic be accessable?

If youll have access to the attic later Id stuff a couple of pieces of 1 1/2-2" pvc from top of panel up through top plate of wall into the attic as a chase for future wires.

If you think youll need more than 40 spaces in your panel for some reason Id set a sub panel next to it,The price of a bunch of tandem breakers would more than pay for a sub panel and would look better.

There will be no ceiling in the shop, open steel trusses.


I strongly doubt I'll ever need more than 40 spaces but who knows. In my circuit plan, I'll have 23 spaces used as of now.

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[ddawg16]

Flush mount. It just looks a whole lot better.

Because if you do it right, you will add all the stuff you need plus extra before you drywall.

If you do end up needing to add stuff, unless you want to open up walls, it's going to be conduit on the outside of the wall anyway.

Besides all the outlets you know you need....don't forget welder outlets, compressor....and some in the ceiling...and by the garage door....as in if you decide to install Liftmaster at the door.

 

[hunterguy86]

Flush mount. It just looks a whole lot better.

Because if you do it right, you will add all the stuff you need plus extra before you drywall.

If you do end up needing to add stuff, unless you want to open up walls, it's going to be conduit on the outside of the wall anyway.

Besides all the outlets you know you need....don't forget welder outlets, compressor....and some in the ceiling...and by the garage door....as in if you decide to install Liftmaster at the door.

I don't have a big compressor yet but plan to add one in the not so near future. I was thinking of just pull number 6 to the location and just leave the red unhooked, giving me 120 for my current crapsman 20 gallon.


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