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Surface mount scissor lift floor requirements?

cobrakillerta

Member
Joined
Dec 13, 2008
Messages
23
I have a tight garage that is 20’x20’ with double doors and a support post right in the middle, so lift choice is tough. I’ll just be doing regular DIY maintenance and tinkering.

With that, I’ve been doing research on surface mount scissor lifts and currently have my eye on the Twin Busch and Stratus units. I will most likely go with a ‘portable’ mid-rise lift which lifts around +-40” and does not require anchoring, or possibly bucking up the extra cash for a full rise unit that does require anchoring.

Some of the scissor lift instructions call for concrete floor requirements similar to a 2 post lift, 3000psi and 4”+

Is this truely required, do I need to fully test my garage floor?
If so, how do I go about doing that exactly?

I fully understand these requirements for a 2 post lift, but I’m thrown off with these requirements for a scissor lift. Let’s say each side of the scissor lift base is 18”x36” or so, that is a bit more surface area than the 4 tires of a vehicle and way more than the tiny contact points of 4 jack stands. So it throws me off a bit.

Is this just a liability statement for the manufacturers to cover themselves??
 
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ItsNemo

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Mar 5, 2016
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4,806
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Canada
Less than 4 inches might crack under the pressure when it's raised (the weight does end up fairly concentrated) but really as long as the concrete is in good shape, I wouldn't be too worried about it.
 
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cobrakillerta

Member
Joined
Dec 13, 2008
Messages
23
Let me recommend bolting it down. Mine would move on the floor when driving on and off. 2 tapcons made it better.

I have noticed the issues of these lifts sliding being mentioned

My idea was to drop a couple of those epoxy set flush mount anchors in so as to be able to flip the lift around if need be. This way I can easily un-bolt, spin it around and bolt it back down.

Technically these lifts do have a ‘front’. With my garage only being 20’ deep, having the ability to flip it around so the ‘front’ is towards my garage door seems like a good option...or maybe I’m overthinking this and will never move the lift at all :headscrat
 
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ItsNemo

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Mar 5, 2016
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Being able to flip it around would be nice if you ever need to use a cherry picker or whatnot in the engine bay.
 

fteufert

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Joined
Oct 24, 2013
Messages
382
Location
Near Scranton, PA
I have a SnapOn Wheeltronics mid-rise lift.

I have old concrete, maybe 3" thick.

While it might occasionally move on the way down, I don't have it bolted or secured to the cement.

I have 2x10's as ramps with a 2x4 wedged on the front edge of the lift to prevent it from moving sideways.

The rear roller wheels are on .190" aluminum plates that leveled it and make it easier to roll on my pathetically pot-mocked cement.

My lift doesn't care what direction I drive onto it
 

kaymccampbell

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Joined
Feb 27, 2015
Messages
29,582
Location
Upstate New York
I have noticed the issues of these lifts sliding being mentioned

My idea was to drop a couple of those epoxy set flush mount anchors in so as to be able to flip the lift around if need be. This way I can easily un-bolt, spin it around and bolt it back down.

Technically these lifts do have a ‘front’. With my garage only being 20’ deep, having the ability to flip it around so the ‘front’ is towards my garage door seems like a good option...or maybe I’m overthinking this and will never move the lift at all :headscrat

That'll work.
They do recommend putting the heavy end of the vehicle on the pivot end of the lift.
I realized that I moved mine so little, that I was able to pick a spot, after a bunch of tries, and flush mount it in the floor.
 
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