surfacing brake rotor

[BrianJ]

Have a shimmy when applying brakes....

Is flex-hone an option to sand down high spots or 3M roloc abrasive disc a better option? Combination of both?

I'm anticipating that I'll need to do this more than once as regardless of the rotor or pads, shimmy will return.

 

[signcrafter]

I believe those are just for sanding down surface rust and cleaning up the mating surfaces. Not for actually truing up a rotor. So if your problem is due to some **** between the rotor and the hub then those will work but if it's a problem with the rotor itself then I don't think they will work. The hone you linked to says it's for cleaning up new or re surfaced rotors. So it's not to do the actual resurfacing. More like honing an engine cylinder, you bore out the cylinder to fix any surface problems and then hone it to create hatch marks for a good seating surface for the piston rings.

 

[astroracer]

When was the last time the brakes were looked at? You may have to replace the pads and have the rotors trued up on a brake lathe. (or replace the rotors if they are bad...)
Mark

 

[billymade]

I would just replace the rotors if they are warped; most of the time when I have turned warped rotors... they just end up warping, pulsating again (hard spots). If the rotors are just grooved and you can turn them; still be with the specification stamped on the rotor itself... you will be ok. Seems that allot of the newer cars; replacing the rotors are the way to go... I think older cars had allot more metal, allowed you to be able to turn them quite a few times. I don't think this is the case as much any more.

 

[SMKS]

That brake rotor hone appears it would be good for putting a non-directional finish on rotors after they're turned, but a hone probably won't fix your problem.

As others have said, you need to look for why they're pulsating.

Likely you have a problem caused by runout, pad deposts or something like a sticking caliper. Depending on the vehicle, it sometimes doesn't make sense to turn rotors anymore, for a variety of reasons.

I'm going to guess something related to runout. Perhaps rust under the rotor or perhaps the rotors had too much runout to begin with. That will cause them to wear unevenly and lead to brake pulsation over time.

Anyway, You'll need to take everything apart and check it out. HF has a runout gauge if you want to get really in depth.

http://www.harborfreight.com/clamping-dial-indicator-93051.html

 

[joe_padavano]

NOTHING that's a free-hand device will solve a warped rotor or pulsing problem. If anything, it will make it worse. The hand-held rotor surfacing tools are only for breaking glaze or removing machining marks after turning. Either have the rotors turned or replace them.

 

[BrianJ]

A bit of a back ground.

Pulsing occurred on the stock rotors & pads as well as aftermarket (powerstop) rotors and pads. They have ~15-20k miles on it. Rotors are slotted, thus, not many shops want to take it...

I'll be taking a dial gauge to see the if any issue with the face of the hub.

 

[TheJohn]

You will never be able to make them true with that. Anything hand held is just to prepare the surface after turning them on a lathe. Buy better quality rotors and just replace them.

 

[mayday0017]

You say both the stock pads had the pulsing and so do the aftermarkets? Did the aftermarkets have this pulsing from new or did they develop it? IF they had them from new pull them off and try to clean the hub with a Roloc pad. If that doesn't work and you can check the runout check it... but I doubt you have a pulse from 2 sets of rotors made from two different manufactures. If it was there from the day you bough the new rotors then something else is causing the pulsing....

 

[MattPersman]

It's usually the drivers habits that cause that I am sure there will be arguments about it but its from excess pad deposits in one or more spots many times due to heat then keeping pressure applied on the pedal at the stop light just beds it in

Some brake systems seem a bit undersized and or use crappy pads so they can't shed heat quick enough then you start forming deposits and it builds up

The way most people are out driving now a days it's rush rush rush floor it to the last second then floor the brake pedal it's hard on brakes

 

[BrianJ]

Did the aftermarkets have this pulsing from new or did they develop it?

The pulse developed. No issues when new. The rotors were properly bedded in.

 

[GTA Matt]

If a shop doesn't want to turn rotors because they are drilled or slotted, then they are stupid. Makes no difference at all, I do them all the time, even did my own personal ones.

 

[mayday0017]

Those are cheap rotors I wouldn't waste my money getting them turned... buy better quality they won't warp as soon on you. But getting those turned if you thought they warped fast the first time then you should see how fast they are gonna warp this time....

Plenty of good brands out there, what kind of car are they on maybe we can make some recommendations that are more car specific. If no then Wagner or Zimmerman would be first two I would tell you to go with.

 

[Coach James]

I would take the rotors to Sears and demand they give you new ones. Also tell them you want NEW not rebuilt and they better not be made in China!!

Coach

 

[BrianJ]

Those are cheap rotors I wouldn't waste my money getting them turned... buy better quality they won't warp as soon on you. But getting those turned if you thought they warped fast the first time then you should see how fast they are gonna warp this time....

Plenty of good brands out there, what kind of car are they on maybe we can make some recommendations that are more car specific. If no then Wagner or Zimmerman would be first two I would tell you to go with.

Car is Gen3 Odyssey. Rotors were ~$100 per, so, they weren't cheap (for me at least)....

 

[glenmore]

Looks like there are decent Brembo rotors for about $45 each at Autohausaz.com.

Free shipping and probably no tax too!

 

[mayday0017]

You put cross drilled and slotted rotors on a mini van? That is awesome!

Agree also that u should buy the brembo blanks he is speaking of they will work better and last longer.

 

[scarney1988]

Do you have a micrometer?
Do you have a dial indicator?
Do you have access to the brake specs for your car (minimum thickness, etc...)?

If not, inspect all related brake parts: calipers, hoses, slides, etc... and replace the rotors with OEM or quality aftermarket. I also recommend removing any corrosion or buildup from your hubs before installing your rotors. Torque wheels to spec in a star pattern.

 

[keithwvd]

my powerstop rotors had a lifetime warranty, lucky because they warped in 11 months

 

[MystralHawk]

I agree with many of the people on here and recommend just replacing the rotors. I would also recommend replacing the pads at the same time so you get two fresh surfaces for optimum seating.

Rockauto has Centric Premiums for $40 a rotor. I've run these rotors on all my cars and friends cars. They're not slotted, but they're high quality and come with a powdercoated center and lip so that you don't get rust on the hub area or on the outside circumference of the rotor. There are also a few 5% off coupons for Rockauto floating around the internet that you can find. If you need one, just PM me.

I've used the same rotors on a 2006 Odyssey along with some Akebonos or Centric pads and it stopped really well. Keep in mind that since I was doing the brakes myself, I fully seated the pads by burnishing them in. Otherwise you may or may not get the best braking performance. I felt that the brakes feel better when I burnish them in as opposed to just letting them seat naturally.

What are you doing with your Odyssey that you need slotted rotors? Blanks should work just fine!

 

[joe_padavano]

Rotors are slotted,

And that's your first problem, right there. No need for that on the street.