jesselyons2002
Well-known member
Was wondering what you use to removing and install oem bushing from suspension component.
Suspension bushing
- Thread starter jesselyons2002
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csp
Well-known member
Depends on what kind of component it is and what kind of bushing it is.
ZRX61
Well-known member
You still working on that? 
e3pres
Well-known member
I'm assuming you are talking about rubber bushings in steel A-Arms. If not, this may not be very useful.
I've used two methods:
1. Torch out the old rubber bushing. Nasty as hell.
2. Drill through the old bushing all around the perimeter, then man-handle it out of the sleeve.
Neither are very appealing, but they both work.
In the past, I've left the old shell in the A-Arm and just replaced the rubber. If you are going to do the shell too, you'll almost definitely need a press and you'll have to be careful not to tweak the A-Arm as you press out the old shell.
I've used two methods:
1. Torch out the old rubber bushing. Nasty as hell.
2. Drill through the old bushing all around the perimeter, then man-handle it out of the sleeve.
Neither are very appealing, but they both work.
In the past, I've left the old shell in the A-Arm and just replaced the rubber. If you are going to do the shell too, you'll almost definitely need a press and you'll have to be careful not to tweak the A-Arm as you press out the old shell.
Ign
Well-known member
I generally drill the rubber in a ga-zillion places until I can get most of it along with the inner eye out. Then the outer sleeve which housed the rubber is usually cut out w a sawzall. Doesn't really matter if you gouge the ID where the OD of the new bushing will go, just keep it minimal.
Ideally it should all be pressed out, just as it is pressed in during installation. In reality this is rarely possible.
Like many people I generally replace w poly but this comes with it's own set of problems: usually poor fit and noise.
Ideally it should all be pressed out, just as it is pressed in during installation. In reality this is rarely possible.
Like many people I generally replace w poly but this comes with it's own set of problems: usually poor fit and noise.
johno
Well-known member
This works well for MII A arms, I just did it.
Chuck it in a vice, hit the inside of bushing with a hammer, or hammer and cold chisel whichever allows best access, about 2-3 whacks and it's out.
If not
Heat rubber with torch, then you should be able to remove rubber and iner sleeve with a hammer and chisel or punch of some sort,. Leaving the inner sleeve,, if need be you can cut this with hacksaw and out it comes.
But first method works pretty good.
Chuck it in a vice, hit the inside of bushing with a hammer, or hammer and cold chisel whichever allows best access, about 2-3 whacks and it's out.
If not
Heat rubber with torch, then you should be able to remove rubber and iner sleeve with a hammer and chisel or punch of some sort,. Leaving the inner sleeve,, if need be you can cut this with hacksaw and out it comes.
But first method works pretty good.
ZRX61
Well-known member
OP
jesselyons2002
Well-known member
Anyone got a way of installing the bushing back ???
78Bird
Well-known member
yeah, a press.
That's pretty much it.
That's pretty much it.
johno
Well-known member
You can again use a hammer. Press is best tho.
With hammer method use a socket or similar that just fits over rubber and onto the outer sleeve, hammer on that, use anti sieze.
If you make a spacer of some sort, to place between/inside A arm ends, it will reduce bounce and remove chance of deforming A arm.
I made a tool out of 1 1/2" pipe I had laying about.
If you do that make sure you can get it out once both bushes are in.
With hammer method use a socket or similar that just fits over rubber and onto the outer sleeve, hammer on that, use anti sieze.
If you make a spacer of some sort, to place between/inside A arm ends, it will reduce bounce and remove chance of deforming A arm.
I made a tool out of 1 1/2" pipe I had laying about.
If you do that make sure you can get it out once both bushes are in.
buick64203
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 25, 2010
- Messages
- 184
I use an air chisel more times than not. You just have to be careful you dont gouge the A arm. They dont come out easy that for sure.
Kent Moore made a very nice remover/ installer for control arm bushings. Came with a half circle spacer so you didnt collapse the A arm. Ive seen home made spacers, drivers and receiving cups made from pieces of pipe.
As far as installing them, I use Morgan bushing knockers and a hammer. They fit the lip of the new bushings perfectly.
Jason
Kent Moore made a very nice remover/ installer for control arm bushings. Came with a half circle spacer so you didnt collapse the A arm. Ive seen home made spacers, drivers and receiving cups made from pieces of pipe.
As far as installing them, I use Morgan bushing knockers and a hammer. They fit the lip of the new bushings perfectly.
Jason
ZRX61
Well-known member
Want to use my press?
ZRX61
Well-known member
So I guess ya got it sorted?
mobetta
Well-known member
air chisel for removal.
I have used PVC plumbing fittings, old pipe, etc, along with some all-thread to make a "press" to draw in/ out bushings too. an assortment of fender washers is good to have on hand.
saw off the rubber lip(hacksaw, sawzall, etc) so that the rubber will fit inside a short length of pipe. run allthread thru the bushing, thru the pipe, and use big fender washers, plate stock, ect on end of pipe, tighten nut on all thread to draw bushing out...
and a large C frame ball joint press is handy too.
I have used PVC plumbing fittings, old pipe, etc, along with some all-thread to make a "press" to draw in/ out bushings too. an assortment of fender washers is good to have on hand.
saw off the rubber lip(hacksaw, sawzall, etc) so that the rubber will fit inside a short length of pipe. run allthread thru the bushing, thru the pipe, and use big fender washers, plate stock, ect on end of pipe, tighten nut on all thread to draw bushing out...
and a large C frame ball joint press is handy too.