Suspension Rebuild and Mods

[Stanger]

I'm going through the front suspension on my '66 Mustang now that finals are finally over. I don't like the original lower ball joint design since you have to replace the whole lower control arm just to replace the ball joint. So, to fix that, I picked up a couple of AFCO screw in ball joints and sleeves. I'm getting the "while I'm at it" bug pretty bad. Oh well.

Original:

Sleeve tacked in:

Sleeve welded in:

Final Product:

 

[5wndwcpe]

You might look into relocating the upper arms while you're at it.

http://www.vintage-mustang.com/topics/faq/controlarm.html

 

[Stanger]

You might look into relocating the upper arms while you're at it.

http://www.vintage-mustang.com/topic...ontrolarm.html

Thanks for the tip man, but I'm one step ahead of you. The template is already taped to the shock tower. I'm getting some poly bushings, and 550# 1" lowering springs too.

 

[russlaferrera]

Excellent job.. Very impressed with your workmanship.

 

[rsanter]

very nice
one problem with the lower control arms is that they are kind of flimsy and they are in an area where they can be tweaked of you hit something with them.
to help this you will want to 'box' the bottom of the arm to strenthen it.
I have a few of these plates for doing it or you can cut out some of your own.

there is also an issue with the inner bushing sleve on the lower contol arms. the sleve is only pressed in and under hard driving they can slip. you should put a couple welds on them as well and you can replace the bushing part with a poly replacement.
another option that works well is to get a couple of the correct size heim joints and the correct size 'coupling nut' (you know the ones, they look like a regular nut but they are about 3 times as long) and then you will have another adjustment point there as well.

one question...where did you get the sleve and the ball joint?
what are the part numbers?

thanks

bob

 

[Stanger]

Thanks for all the kind words and tips guys.

Bob, here is a link to the ball joints and sleeves. The sleeves I used are actually UB Machine since that is what the local speed shop had in stock.

http://www.afabcorp.com/AFCO_Dynate...e=20034&Category_Code=ct_standard-ball-joints

http://www.afabcorp.com/AFCO_Dynate...roduct_Code=20043&Category_Code=ct_bj-sleeves

 

[Red Green]

Speedway Motors also sells the sleeves http://www.speedwaymotors.com/ProductSummary.aspx?free_text|12/20/2008%2011:20:19%20PM=ball+joint+sleeves&deptId=0

 

[Bob Paulin]

Speedway Motors also sells the sleeves http://www.speedwaymotors.com/ProductSummary.aspx?free_text|12/20/2008%2011:20:19%20PM=ball+joint+sleeves&deptId=0

Speedway Motors just bought AFCO....

 

[Stanger]

Small update. I did the other LCA today.
I disassembled the old ball joints, which was a real PITA, and cut out the heavy reinforcement plate. I trimmed it and welded it back in its original place. Now there is no question about the strength of the ball joint(my dad had doubts, but he's pleased now).
Mark for trimming:

Fitting after trim:

Reinforcement plate welded:

Finished, side by side:

I still need to paint them to match the uppers.

 

[rsanter]

good job on the last modification. I was a bit worried about the same thing

bob

 

[Stanger]

good job on the last modification. I was a bit worried about the same thing

bob

Thanks. The guy that I borrowed the idea from didn't have anything to strengthen that area and it worried my dad and I. Once the welding was done, we were pretty confident that it would be OK, but decided to weld the plates in just in case. Disassembling those ball joints was a real PITA. It's clear that no one ever intended for those to be taken apart.

 

[rsanter]

I have seen the replacement lower control arms done a couple of ways.
the original lowers and some of the replacements use a thin material and have the lower ball joint with the extended plate that will tie into the strut rods.
the other type of replacement arm uses thicker material and uses a press in type ball joint that is tac welded in place.

what I want to do is build a one piece lower control arm with adjustment at both pivot points.

by the way, I still think you need to look at boxing the lower control arms. it will be an easy and cheap task for you based on what I seen your ability to be.
if you are going to drive the car really hard you should also weld T-A plated into the inside of the towers

bob

 

[e-tek]

VERY IMPRESSIVE mods and welding!!!

 

[55dude]

those ball joints look like stock mopar ones? nice fab work.

 

[Bob Paulin]

Small update. I did the other LCA today.
I disassembled the old ball joints, which was a real PITA, and cut out the heavy reinforcement plate. I trimmed it and welded it back in its original place. Now there is no question about the strength of the ball joint(my dad had doubts, but he's pleased now).

<<<SNIP>>>

I still need to paint them to match the uppers.

And, you probably need to ream the tapered hole in your Ford spindle to match the taper on the MOPAR ball joint.

IIRC, the taper on the OEM Ford spindle and ball joint is 2 inches-per-foot (approximately 10° ), while the taper on the new ball joint is 1-1/2 inches-per foot (approximately 7-1/2° ).

If you put it together this way, you WILL snap ball joint studs, because the stud taper will only be contacting the hole in the spindle at one small point near the top - not the whole length of the taper - and the bottom of the ball joint stud will have clearance to bend back and forth.

A quick measurement of the old ball joint stud against the new one will show the differences.

BTW, what you have there is a rugged, popular setup that is used in most of the upper-level Late Model divisions of oval track racing in the country - which explains the ready availability of parts and how a ball joint from the late '50s continues to sell so well. It took Moog a while to figure THAT one out.

If you have an oval-track chassis builder nearby, he'll probably have both reamers available....Some oval track teams also have the tools.

If you were closer to me, I also have both reamers.

B.P.

 

[zuspiel]

Very nice work! Makes me wish I had a welder and knew how to use it...

However, that will give a reason to take the 'stang back apart sometime down the road

BTW, you had mentioned in another thread that you use epoxy paint. By now, I'm sitting on a pile of cleaned up parts that I need to paint (black). Which epoxy do you use? Thanks.