Swing joint required for anodeless riser ?

[danbuff]

I am preparing my gas line run to my barn, and have a question regarding the need for a swing joint.
I live in the north-east, and we do have a frost line of 42 inches.
I am tying into the meter output via anodeless riser, with underground run of MDPE pipe.
I see some folks using swing joints to tie the riser into the meter, and at the destination.
I can see the logic of using this arrangement, but then I read where folks are saying to periodically check for leaks, as the joints could loosen.
So I am questioning the "need" for this swing joint?

Any folks here have experience with swing joints for outside gas?
Necessary in cold climate?
Anyone experience leaks after period of time?

Thanks.
Dan

 

[The Cobbler]

probably be different by area, but here I wasn't required .

 

[danbuff]

We are in same climate area.. so unlikely I would need one

 

[Jackfre]

Swing joints are a good idea, especially if you have a long straight run of pipe.

 

[danbuff]

Swing joints are a good idea, especially if you have a long straight run of pipe.

How would the length of the underground pipe make a difference in whether to use swing joint or not? I thought a swing joint for use at the meter was to ameliorate the effects of frost heave or ground motion?
Trying to understand these joints better.

Where I live there is always frost heave concerns, which could lead to motion of the riser relative to the meter. Not sure if this would be issue for me though.

Thanks for the inputs, I appreciate them.
Dan

 

[shooon]

I was required to have swing joints on my risers. There are a couple different styles that are acceptable- I'll see if I can find a picture.

I believe the idea behind it is if the ground settles or heaves you don't want to create pipe strain by having the riser / gas line pulling down or heaving up.

If you use a good flexible pipe thread sealant you aren't likely to develop leaks from a small range of movement in the swing joints. It never hurts to double check with soapy water a few seasons after though once the ground has settled or if you notice a change in alignment of the joints. Also keep in mind most domestic gas pressures are typically 7 in. w.c. ( 0.25 PSI).

I'm assuming you've figured out your underground pipe size based on distance, btu load and pressure already? Don't overlook those details.

 

[danbuff]

I was required to have swing joints on my risers. There are a couple different styles that are acceptable- I'll see if I can find a picture.

I believe the idea behind it is if the ground settles or heaves you don't want to create pipe strain by having the riser / gas line pulling down or heaving up.

If you use a good flexible pipe thread sealant you aren't likely to develop leaks from a small range of movement in the swing joints. It never hurts to double check with soapy water a few seasons after though once the ground has settled or if you notice a change in alignment of the joints. Also keep in mind most domestic gas pressures are typically 7 in. w.c. ( 0.25 PSI).

I'm assuming you've figured out your underground pipe size based on distance, btu load and pressure already? Don't overlook those details.

Thanks for your input. It wont take much more effort to include the swing joint.. I am planning on using pipe dope.

I do have another recent post discussing pipe size, etc.

If you can find those swing joint style pictures, I would appreciate that.

Dan

 

[shooon]

With regards to Jackfre's comment about length-
When you have solid pipe or material in straight runs it will exhibit thermal expansion and contraction. The longer the run and type of material will impact how much length will be gained or lost because of temperature.

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Here's the swing joint diagram my inspector sent me.

 

[danbuff]

Thanks shooon, I appreciate this.
Nice to see the thermal expansion numbers too..

 

[danbuff]

Here is my swing joint connection to the meter..