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Swing out doors?

Tamper84

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Ok, so my garage has a building inside of it. Its a 30x30 pole building, and the previous owner put a 21x27(roughly) shop inside of it. It created a loft for storage. I dont have a basement or an attic in the house. So unfortunate for me, its staying as is.

Now to the question, Im finishing off of the shop side of it, insulating and putting osb on the ceilings/walls. But it still has a sliding door on it. I was thinking of getting rid of the slider and just putting swing out doors on it. I know that they arent as good as a regular garage door, but I would like to get rid of the slider to seal up the place a little better.

Should I do that or just keep the slider? I dont use the slider hardly at all. Once in a blue moon it gets opened. Im putting my lathe and hopefully a mill in there. And also my leather tools, not too much wrenching will happen in there.

Thanks,
Chris
 
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Tamper84

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Ok heres a picture. The left side where the slider is, is what I am talking about. Im thinking of just sealing off the loft part, and putting the swing out doors where the shop space is.
photo.jpg
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jkwilson

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Big swing out doors aren't going to seal as well as a well-installed slider, and they are a pain in wind or snow. There's a reason you don't see them anymore.
 
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Tamper84

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Could put a man door *in* the sliding door portion so you have the best of both.

Whoops I screwed up again. I forgot to say there is a man door around the corner from the slider.:lol_hitti

Big swing out doors aren't going to seal as well as a well-installed slider, and they are a pain in wind or snow. There's a reason you don't see them anymore.

Very very true. Although my slider isnt very well installed lol. Do you have any tips about sealing them up?

Thanks,
Chris
 

Mike in Ohio

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Maybe just frame the whole opening closed with a 6' double door to get your equipment through. Unless you need more than 6' by 6'8" to get stuff through.

This might the cheapest route although framing and a 9x7 rollup door might not be much more expensive.
 
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Tamper84

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have you considered taking out the slider, framing part of the opening in and installing an overhead door ?

Hmmm..Now thats a thought. I suppose I could make the door go up into the loft and save head room below. Thanks!!!
Maybe just frame the whole opening closed with a 6' double door to get your equipment through. Unless you need more than 6' by 6'8" to get stuff through.

This might the cheapest route although framing and a 9x7 rollup door might not be much more expensive.

That would work as well. I only have a 7' ceiling to work with down there. I know it isnt any thing near perfect, but its what I have to work with.

Thank you guys,
Chris
 
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NUTTSGT

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Hmmm..Now thats a thought. I suppose I could make the door go up into the loft and save head room below. Thanks!!!


Thank you guys,
Chris

Just keep in mind Chris, that when the door goes up into the loft, you'll lose some storage area in the loft. That is of course you install a tall overhead door that goes up to the ceiling/rafters like normal.

Just curious, where is clarington oh.

Just a quick Google search. :dunno:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clarington,_Ohio
 

upndown

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Not sure how much room you have above the loft..but you could go with a full vertical lift door. That would give you a full 7' opening and not loose any space above, Door runs straight up the wall. :thumbup:
 

kbs2244

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Most sliders can be pulled up tight against the frame with the big, turnbuckle style, hooks.
I have seen various over center toggle style hooks also.

Then some of the brush style weather strips should seal it up.
Or maybe install the bottom of a garage door style seal vertically at the door opening to pull the door against.
 
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Tamper84

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Not sure how much room you have above the loft..but you could go with a full vertical lift door. That would give you a full 7' opening and not loose any space above, Door runs straight up the wall. :thumbup:

I have about a 4 foot head room up there. And from the concrete I have 12 feet to the bottom of the rafters.

Most sliders can be pulled up tight against the frame with the big, turnbuckle style, hooks.
I have seen various over center toggle style hooks also.

Then some of the brush style weather strips should seal it up.
Or maybe install the bottom of a garage door style seal vertically at the door opening to pull the door against.

Brush style weather striping? I do have turnbuckles on the slider now, in the middle. I have thought of adding some at the top and the bottom to tighten it up.

Thanks,
Chris
 

Thruxton

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Big swing out doors aren't going to seal as well as a well-installed slider, and they are a pain in wind or snow. There's a reason you don't see them anymore.

Sorry, just the opposite. Have both on the farm, and the sliders are MUCH harder to make weather tight. Now admittedly this is in the mild climes of Virginia, but my barn in Central NY had "swing-out" doors, partly for their insulation capability. The reason you don't see them as often today is it takes a little work and some not-cheap hardware to construct them properly. IMHO.
 

HoosierMark

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I have roll up doors on my storage units. They could roll up above your loft and not take up much room. I have also seen a local builder put sliders on the inside. It keeps the tracks clean and it allows you to pull the doors tight against the wall when they are closed.
Also wondered if you were to leave the door as is but hang a painters tarp or something similar from the loft to create an air barrier similar to the plastic curtains you see hanging between refrigerated rooms and work areas.
 
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Tamper84

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Sorry, just the opposite. Have both on the farm, and the sliders are MUCH harder to make weather tight. Now admittedly this is in the mild climes of Virginia, but my barn in Central NY had "swing-out" doors, partly for their insulation capability. The reason you don't see them as often today is it takes a little work and some not-cheap hardware to construct them properly. IMHO.

How do you suggest to build them? I figured wheels on the ends so they wouldnt sag and tear at the hinges. Any other ideas?

Chris
 
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