So I'm wanting to make swinging fence for access to the backyard and for trailer parking. I saw somebody else posted something very similar to what I was wanting to do but can't find after a day of searching so hopefully somebody can help point me in the right direction. It was a metal frame with wood fence hung on it and swung open for access seemed very nice and well done.
swinging fence backyard access
- Thread starter SEV22XS
- Start date
bigbubba
Well-known member
Could you not just buy a pipe gate and attach the fence boards to it?? Be a lot easier than building the whole thing. Plus gates are cheap!
mtwaterguy
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 16, 2007
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You missed the "very nice and well done" part.
bigbubba
Well-known member
Nope saw it just fine,If it's a wooden fence that's boarded on both sides you would never see the pipe gate. If only on one side you could paint the gate to blend in.
I couldn't really where talking a thirty foot span I want do double gates also to add to the difficulty there is a slope involved as well and an HOA.
edsauto
Well-known member
Try this search, "Show us your wooden gate and fencing"
That thread, go down to post # 8, I am just guessing.
Dan.....
That thread, go down to post # 8, I am just guessing.
Dan.....
bigbubba
Well-known member
They have those gates down to an entry sized gate,For that matter you can buy pre-made chain link gates fairly cheap as well.
The only difference in that, and what Bubba described is square tubing instead of round pipe.
That is basically it but no the post I was thinking of. It was manually operated gate but very similar to that.
JimVonBaden
Well-known member
koditten
Well-known member
I wonder f it was my gate? I'm doo drunk to go look at my old posts.
JimVonBaden
Well-known member
p_mori7
Well-known member
You will need to offset the total weight of the gate by the concrete the post is set into, otherwise it will always want to sag in the middle.
So, if the gate is made out of a braced 2x3.5x1/8 tube steel frame, 5' tall and 15' long, just the steel will weigh about 275 pounds, + the wood boards will weigh about 150 pounds ... total weight for 1 side will be about 400 ~ 450 pounds.
If it were me, I would be looking a using double that weight in concrete to set the post, so 800 ~ 900 pounds.
A cubic foot of concrete weight about 150 pounds, so 6 cubic feet of concrete per post.
So, if the gate is made out of a braced 2x3.5x1/8 tube steel frame, 5' tall and 15' long, just the steel will weigh about 275 pounds, + the wood boards will weigh about 150 pounds ... total weight for 1 side will be about 400 ~ 450 pounds.
If it were me, I would be looking a using double that weight in concrete to set the post, so 800 ~ 900 pounds.
A cubic foot of concrete weight about 150 pounds, so 6 cubic feet of concrete per post.
F16CrewChief
Well-known member
What are you parking back there that needs a 30ft span? single lane of highway is 13ft. Double 6ft gates is plenty to back a car hauler trailer.
F16CrewChief
Well-known member
Hahahahaha
KCarGuy
Well-known member
I Just Built My Driveway Gate this weekend.
It is 12 foot wide and each section is 6 foot each.
I started with sinking my 6x6 corner posts 4 feet down (4 foot out)
Using 240 lbs of Concrete to set each one.
I welded up 2 sections of 1.5x3" steel tubing that were 22x72"
welded some "Tabs" to it (to attach wooden fence section)
Added my Copperwood fencing to match the rest of my Fencing.
And drilled/Tapped the steel tubing to attach all my Latches and Hardware with Stainless Steel Allen Button Head Bolts.
It opens and closes so Smoothly.
If I was Going Bigger or Wider...I would go with Steel Corner posts dug deeper and with much more Concrete.
It is 12 foot wide and each section is 6 foot each.
I started with sinking my 6x6 corner posts 4 feet down (4 foot out)
Using 240 lbs of Concrete to set each one.
I welded up 2 sections of 1.5x3" steel tubing that were 22x72"
welded some "Tabs" to it (to attach wooden fence section)
Added my Copperwood fencing to match the rest of my Fencing.
And drilled/Tapped the steel tubing to attach all my Latches and Hardware with Stainless Steel Allen Button Head Bolts.
It opens and closes so Smoothly.
If I was Going Bigger or Wider...I would go with Steel Corner posts dug deeper and with much more Concrete.
ahab
Well-known member
Most farm gates stop around 15'. Some pretty big equipment can fit through a 15' gate.
Hey k car have any pictures ? Good point ahab the house sits at an angle on the property line I was just thinking if I did two gates I would be able to get next the house or the fence.
67carl
Well-known member
My neighbor was looking to put a swinging gate in her wood fence large enough to drive a car through. Adjust A Gate is what we found and it's got good reviews. It's a kit that contains the metal frame and hardware that you bolt the wood to. Different heights and widths are available. Doesn't sag.
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=adjust+a+gate
Is this what you were looking for?
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=adjust+a+gate
Is this what you were looking for?
Attachments
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Slednut
Well-known member
I've posted this before, it's my 11 foot wide auto gate that you can also open like a non-auto gate. There is a post in the center that can be removed and another 10 foot gate on the other side.
Here's a video.
Here's a video.
JakeKohl
Well-known member
I don't want to automatically throw myself into "well done"...but here are the gates I built for my shop. I wanted something that I'm not going to have to mess with other than periodically maintain the wood. The hinge posts are schedule 40 pipe. The rest is 1.5" .06 wall square tubing with some strategic reinforcements. I dropped them off at a local galvanizer where they did a really nice job (although, it cost me more than I anticipated - $250 to do the gates and the two posts). I was still missing a couple of pickets in the last picture. Two years later and it's really held up well. I haven't had to do anything with it. The grease fittings on the hinge blocks were total overkill ;-)...and I don't advise welding while wearing shorts. It's one step removed from welding while wearing flip flops.
I've also got actuators for these but I never got around to installing them....probably a project for this winter.
DSC_2371 by Green Room Graphics, on Flickr
hinge blocks welded by Green Room Graphics, on Flickr
installing the gates by Green Room Graphics, on Flickr
installing the gates by Green Room Graphics, on Flickr
DSC_2616 by Green Room Graphics, on Flickr
I've also got actuators for these but I never got around to installing them....probably a project for this winter.
DSC_2371 by Green Room Graphics, on Flickr
hinge blocks welded by Green Room Graphics, on Flickr
installing the gates by Green Room Graphics, on Flickr
installing the gates by Green Room Graphics, on Flickr
DSC_2616 by Green Room Graphics, on Flickr
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KCarGuy
Well-known member
Hey Jake wow that is super nice mind if I ask what you have into just the frame and post themselves ? Also do you have any kind of drawing of what you did and how you did or did you just wing it ? It looks super sturdy how is it holding up ?
I don't want to automatically throw myself into "well done"...but here are the gates I built for my shop. I wanted something that I'm not going to have to mess with other than periodically maintain the wood. The hinge posts are schedule 40 pipe. The rest is 1.5" .06 wall square tubing with some strategic reinforcements. I dropped them off at a local galvanizer where they did a really nice job (although, it cost me more than I anticipated - $250 to do the gates and the two posts). I was still missing a couple of pickets in the last picture. Two years later and it's really held up well. I haven't had to do anything with it. The grease fittings on the hinge blocks were total overkill ;-)...and I don't advise welding while wearing shorts. It's one step removed from welding while wearing flip flops.
I've also got actuators for these but I never got around to installing them....probably a project for this winter.
DSC_2371 by Green Room Graphics, on Flickr
hinge blocks welded by Green Room Graphics, on Flickr
installing the gates by Green Room Graphics, on Flickr
installing the gates by Green Room Graphics, on Flickr
DSC_2616 by Green Room Graphics, on Flickr
JakeKohl
Well-known member
I had some pencil sketches but that was about it. I probably had $80 in the upright posts and probably something around $100 in the rest of the steel bits. I cut most of everything by hand with a side angle grinder (a metal cutting chop saw is much preferred and now in my arsenal). Galvanizing was around $250. It was mostly time - it took a while to put everything together. I bought some gate latch hardware from home depot for about $35 and incorporated that into the welded fixtures - that was the hardest part of the whole thing.
It's holding up perfectly. It's been a little over two years and I haven't had to touch them at all. No squeeks, no rattles. The only issue I had is that I was leaving for the Florida Keys one January and the snow and ice piled up behind the gates. I had to break that up and scrape it away so I could get my boat out. ;-)
The curved fence portion isn't perfect. It has sagged a little over time and if I did it again (or when it gets to the point of needing repair), I'll probably double up the posts that hold the curved stringer.
DSC_2572 by Green Room Graphics, on Flickr
DSC_2578 by Green Room Graphics, on Flickr
bczygan
Well-known member
I didn't read every post, but how about putting a wheel under the free end of each 15' swinging panel?
I put a 6x6 on each side of the driveway, then mounted an 8' galvanized cattle gate on them. The cattle gates just barely touch in the center. I took fence boards and bolted them to the cattle gates with galvanized bolts. From the road driving by, it looks like a fence. Behind it, I can have a car torn all apart and you can't tell.
DangerousDan55
Well-known member
Beautiful ideas & gates guys!
I also used a farm gate, drilled holes & used SS wood screws.
I see so many people using 4x4 posts for the gate & they WILL sag in a short time.
ALWAYS USE AT LEAST 6X6 POSTS. I used 8x8, 4' in the ground.
I love your work guys!
I also used a farm gate, drilled holes & used SS wood screws.
I see so many people using 4x4 posts for the gate & they WILL sag in a short time.
ALWAYS USE AT LEAST 6X6 POSTS. I used 8x8, 4' in the ground.
I love your work guys!
DangerousDan55
Well-known member
Also. 3 months ago. ..
My son in law had two 4' metal frame gates with wood facing.
They used 4x4 posts, & guess what..... yep, he has to lift the gates up to get them open. SAGGING!!!!!
MORAL OF THE STORY........ you fill in the rest.
My son in law had two 4' metal frame gates with wood facing.
They used 4x4 posts, & guess what..... yep, he has to lift the gates up to get them open. SAGGING!!!!!
MORAL OF THE STORY........ you fill in the rest.
Eagle Point
Well-known member
TEXACMAN
Well-known member
My Dad had a set of the galvanized cattle gates with fence pickets screwed to it, each had a wheel on it . They looked nice from inside and out.