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Switch For a 5HP Compressor

Augus7us

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I know this topic has been discussed but I could not find the thread.

My compressor will be in the far corner of the shop, opposite the man door. I would like to install a switch next to the door to shut the compressor off when I close up the shop at night.

Compressor is 5HP. I'd prefer a switch with a light letting me know its on. Do you all have a recommendation?
 
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sberry

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Depending on your shop you could be required to have a local switch too. There is some tendancy to want to include every great idea a guy has ever heard of, the internet makes it even more acute.
I usedto do **** like that, there are a couple things I learned about it. Not to lose all the little prts, save the instructions and a real hard one is to start simple.
I am acutely aware of this and its also a reason I am somewhat passionate about economy when appropriate. It doesnt mean undersized buried pipebut what it does mean is some salvage on occasion on the other end, some simple manual operation, dont get so caught up in the what iff to only do it once idea.
There are a lot of air options, I have done this wrong, dun it under and over and overkill by large margins is not always the best way. I got no problem with some of the new air pipe, continious is good and might use it for home runs but on the ends I just as soon go to screwed steel pipe fittings, the most common stuff. Get a can of pipe dope and have at it and dont be scared to change,,, figure out where what is and tailor for convenience and proper operation. I like 1/2 in these class garage and shop especially if its not a truck tire service center. A main run of longer pipe is ok especially if its full of turns but I was amazed in my last remodel how many turns I could remove, be patient with design and take it one step at a time.
To start with,,, if you can see the panel within 50 ft simply wire it up and use the breaker. If it doesnt leak it can be turned on/off a thousand times with no load. Only time it needs to start under load is the first if it doesnt have a starter.
Put a ball valve on the comp at the tank, this is the disconnect fpor system air and if some kind of cooling or piping scheme was involved might get creative with a solonoid to service light or even a simple ball valve to isolate a bunch of connected equipment if I had it.
What helps as much is a little detail to leaks, if you are busy with it the cost isnt much but it does cause it to run at some point. If its in good shape and operates correctly occasionally is not a big deal.
My main is live 24/7 and I have a couple stations with old stuff used only occasionally so we put a service valve ahead of it in handy spot and simply turn it on/off, I check once in a while last lap for stuff we use during the day and its not a deal if it gets missed on occasion, it functions but a valve is a little easy insurance. We tried turning other things on and off but they used so regular that we live with a little risk and have a lot of lapping hours someone is thru.
Risk could be mitigated easily in hobby/home simply due to limited connected equipment. My Bud use the same outfit a whole career and had a simple ball valve he shut in and the comp was aired at 175 for 2 years after he died.
My own just came on for the morning, used it once already and some minor leaks cause a cycle or 2 most days. This winter I am going to fix a couple parasitic leaks and things that bug me a bit,,, nothing that really makes a function difference, mostly ocd issues on it, simply bugs me I could have done it a bit different/better.
 

sberry

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Skip the hydrant theory, reason 2 have 2 stage is for any transmission losses, 1/4 fittings on 3/8 hose are sposed to be there. I like fixed whips and hose reel leads all screwed and the only coupler at the user end. If a guy needs to move a hose to a hydrant then he needs a hose there, I dont like to move them. There is no reason to have several sizes pipe in a small garage, a 1/2 will meat max load demand from the work can be done 5 hp.
There is some common thought that sandblast is the big critical demand, its not, its impacts. a guy really only can effectively blast at the output of the machine, 20 cfm max from 5 hp and about 20 cfm, can be handled 3/8 hose and auto grade fittings for that matter. 3 sizes pf pipe means a guy ends up with extra stuff he never needs in 3 sizes, inch/3/4 and 1/2, he still needs one he doesnt have anyway. 1/2 is easy to plumb and replumb. Using 2 stage is easy to make up the 1/2 or 1# drop difference in size, all that **** just aint worth it.
 

sberry

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I was plumbing a start up shop, owner ******* about the cost of materials and it was difficult to splain that not every station needed 1 1/2 pipe cause we had a 20 hp comp or whatever it was. I returned 300 ft and got 300 3/4, used 1 large stick for a dist manifold and water drain and we had a die for 3/4.
Seemed to grasp it better compared to 200A electric,, we got that coming in and lots of 120V 20A , no 200 outlet in the building.
 

Norcal

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contactor with a 120v coil


If the compressor has a magnetic starter, a switch connected to the control circuit works. Some low end compressors (cheap) use a 5 HP rated pressure switches, in that case, the quoted suggestion is good.
 

wyliesdiesels

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Does the compressor have a contactor/motor starter on it already?

How far away is the compressor from the electrical panel and is it within sight?
 

1Garageman

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How many amps is the breaker your air compressor is on? I am guessing 30amps?

Homedepot
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-30-Amp-Industrial-Grade-Heavy-Duty-Double-Pole-Pilot-Light-Toggle-Switch-Red-3032-PLR/301447111


30 Amp Industrial Grade Heavy Duty Double-Pole Pilot Light Toggle Switch, Red
red-leviton-light-switches-3032-plr-64_1000.jpg
 

sberry

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I plumbed one all not too long ago, the owner got the materials, had a box of inch fittings and a bundle of new inch pipe. I said,,, yup, similar to what dr clyde might do, had made up his mind that any savings would be minor and had the ability to do it all at cost, wasnt worth any fussing for economy and I totally agreed with him, made it easy. A service valve and used 5 of the 6 valves he bought, one each drop each bay in a remodel.
The comp was modest 10 hp but they use inch impact
 

exranger06

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I have a contactor on my compressor with a 240V coil. I wired a toggle switch to the coil with a 120V indicator light. I just had to run a neutral wire to the switch/light box. I drew a crude diagram in Paint to show how it's wired; it's easier than trying to explain it in words. The indicator lights up any time the toggle switch is on, whether the compressor is actually running or not.
 

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wyliesdiesels

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sberry

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This type of thing should be produced and sold as an accy for the diy gang. Make a whole package, drain too. Could even add after cooler.
 

jeepxj

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This type of thing should be produced and sold as an accy for the diy gang. Make a whole package, drain too. Could even add after cooler.

alexa i'm going to the shop

lights on
fan on
compressor on
AC/heat on

:shocking:
 

Wrench97

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Yea and many years ago when I was first married my wife use to go out and start my car in the winter while I was eating the breakfast she made me..........................then I woke up.
 
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strutaeng

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I know this topic has been discussed but I could not find the thread.

My compressor will be in the far corner of the shop, opposite the man door. I would like to install a switch next to the door to shut the compressor off when I close up the shop at night.

Compressor is 5HP. I'd prefer a switch with a light letting me know its on. Do you all have a recommendation?

Does your compressor have a magnetic switch/starter? Do you have a pressure switch with that little lever for "Auto or Off?"

Oops, didn't see the later posts? Only first few...same questions as have been asked.
 
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lmalcomb

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OP
A

Augus7us

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Sorry guys, forgot I posted this until I was out in the shop tonight...

The compressor has a mag started per the website, its a quincy qt5.

I was looking at this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PS6BXLR/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Per the manual is rated for 10HP. My compressor is only 5HP. And would I need to add a ground lug or can I connect those to the switch terminals like I would the two hots? Thanks!
 

Don1357

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Wouldn't it be better to fix all the leaks in your system so it doesn't go off when not in use? :D
 

nadogail

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Wouldn't it be better to fix all the leaks in your system so it doesn't go off when not in use? :D

IMHO, it is better to fix leaks. On thing that might be a Consideration is the contraction of compressed air in tanks as the ambient temperature drops.

The addition of a remote Start / Stop station with an indicator lamp, seems to me to be a pretty basic problem for any student of Motor Control.
 

AP514

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Wouldn't it be better to fix all the leaks in your system so it doesn't go off when not in use? :D

:beer: :+1:

Maybe he has PVC as Piping and does not want his compressor to run all night when that dangerous **** Blows. :flamethro

Opps Sorry back on Topic....

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/album.php?albumid=3821&pictureid=43404
This is what I did..was going to wire and put a 120v lite on the front of panel but never got around to it. Run the lite off of 1 leg.
When the switch is on the lite is on....that way if you turn off the shop lites and see that one on you will know.
 
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Augus7us

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Fella's my system has no leakage. Not one single atom of oxygen will leak at all, no matter the temperature. I know this because my compressor is still sitting on a pallet with no wiring!

I won't be using this thing much. As of right now I own a grand total of two air tools and a blower. I don't see a reason to leave it on for days or weeks without it being used.

AP, that switch setup looks exactly like the one I linked, which I believe will do what i want here. Question for you, how would I pull the 120 for the little coil light? Would I put both the 8awg and 14 or whatever for the light in the same terminal? Is that code compliant, if not would I need to pig tail them? I would be installing the light into the switch box, yours look like its closer to the compressor.
 

Norcal

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Fella's my system has no leakage. Not one single atom of oxygen will leak at all, no matter the temperature. I know this because my compressor is still sitting on a pallet with no wiring!

I won't be using this thing much. As of right now I own a grand total of two air tools and a blower. I don't see a reason to leave it on for days or weeks without it being used.

AP, that switch setup looks exactly like the one I linked, which I believe will do what i want here. Question for you, how would I pull the 120 for the little coil light? Would I put both the 8awg and 14 or whatever for the light in the same terminal? Is that code compliant, if not would I need to pig tail them? I would be installing the light into the switch box, yours look like its closer to the compressor.


You could always use a 240V indicator/pilot light they are available up 480V so sourcing one should not be too hard the OEM starters supplied with compressors have 240V coils anyway.
 

Git

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I am a big believer in switching off the air not the electricity. That way when you do want to use your compressor, you don't need to wait until it comes up to pressure

Several ways do this - I was inspired by the RapidAir Remote Air Shut Off Valve - I believe this one just plugs into a 120v outlet. I found a similar one that uses a simple low voltage transformer about 1/2 the price on Amazon
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/raa-cp-0190

On my system I use a z-wave outlet that is controlled usually by my Amazon Alexa, but there are a number of ways to do it using wifi outlets, etc.

attachment.php
 

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exranger06

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I have a contactor on my compressor with a 240V coil. I wired a toggle switch to the coil with a 120V indicator light. I just had to run a neutral wire to the switch/light box. I drew a crude diagram in Paint to show how it's wired; it's easier than trying to explain it in words. The indicator lights up any time the toggle switch is on, whether the compressor is actually running or not.

Since some others brought up air leaks and shutting off the air instead, I just thought I'd add that my system is 99% leak-free, and even if I left the switch on 24/7, the compressor would basically never turn on unless I was using an air tool. But I like to keep it shut off when not in use just in case something ruptures or springs a leak; it'll keep the compressor from running continuously and burning up.
 

csp

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I don't see a reason to leave it on for days or weeks without it being used.

That's the thing, it's not on until the pressure switch makes contact.

This idea of it being "on" is akin to shutting off a breaker in your panel to a room that isn't used much.
:headscrat
 

Wrench97

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Shut it off when you are not in the shop, nothing like having a line blow on a holiday weekend and coming in Tuesday morning to fine the compressor running and block broke and the cylinders moving up and down instead of the pistons because it ran for 3 days straight................................
 

Mr_fixit

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Wouldn't it be better to fix all the leaks in your system so it doesn't go off when not in use? :D

So I have about 15 quick connect couplings in my garage. That pretty much means it's impossible to have a leak free system. And leave something connected... like an air hose, or tire machine, or even have some retractable hose reels... with their connections, it's not really practical to be leak free.
 
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