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Switch neutral with power to switch box, not fixture box

Zeke

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Aug 13, 2009
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17,176
Location
Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
Simple stupid question but I'm hung up a bit — my mind isn't functioning today.

So, here's the scenario: we have two single pole switches in a 2 gang box and power to that box rather than 2 runs to the 2 fixtures to be switched. In order to meet the requirements of a neutral at a switch location, I'm figuring on running the hot lead to each switch via a jumper, switch the black in a 2 wire with ground cable to each fixture and return the completed circuit back to the switch box on the white and tie all the neutrals together.

One reason for this is that there is an available circuit 4 feet from the 2 gang. The other is that in this situation it uses a LOT less wire.

Is that correct? The way I've done this in the past is to use 3 wire w/ ground cable with power at the fixture box for the leg going to the box with the switch. That's a lot more wire and requires me to bring both types of wire to the job. That would be a 3rd reason for my approach. A 4th reason might be if there are to be several fixtures to be switched at one location (likely to happen). Again, less wire.

I'll go see if I can find my brain while youz guys set me straight.
 
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Zeke

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Aug 13, 2009
Messages
17,176
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Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
Oh, and there is a 5th reason. Although the owner of this project hired a license electrician, the spark ignored the neutral at the switch location rule. He did a bang up job in all respects and the work was nice and tidy. The thing is the owner wanted to make changes after the work was completed and the spark couldn't come back right away and I have insulation and drywall scheduled for next week. On top of that, the owner is cheap and my carpenter rate of $45/hr is a damn sight less than what the spark gets.

No inspection, we are putting a bootleg office in a garage so he can escape his infant children. But I still work to code in all respects.
 

PCustoms

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Jul 23, 2011
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VT
You're good with what you posted.

Power at the box w/ neutral, 14/2 w ground to each fixture, hot leg switched at the box.

Nut the neutrals rogether, nut the grounds together and stuck in towards the back.
 
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Zeke

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17,176
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Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
Thank you. I thought so but my mind is not where it should be these days. I'm due for a shoulder replacement ASAP and the pain has got to me. I can't let go — I've been a working stiff since I was 16 and I'm 73 now. So I keep on truckin' until they put the anesthesia in.

I'll be back much better in 2019 at some point, IDK.
 

theoldwizard1

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Feb 22, 2011
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43,662
Location
SE MI
The way I've done this in the past is to use 3 wire w/ ground cable with power at the fixture box for the leg going to the box with the switch.
Just buy yourself a spool of 14/3 and carry it. It will make life easier.
 
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