Switches and outlets

[T56 Impala]

So I’m cleaning up the old shop. Several of the switches and outlets are damaged. I’m going to replace them but am not happy with the quality of the available units being sold at the big box stores. Can anyone suggest a brand of good quality? Hopefully I can buy on line?

 

[Falcon67]

Not here, bought the cheap 10 packs and haven't had any problems. The "20A" units appear to be more robust than the generic 15A but in 7 years of use no problems.

 

[kd3pc]

leviton, hubbell, etc...most any electrical supply house has name brand outlets and switches.

Several dollars each, instead of $.49-.89...

 

[theoldwizard1]

leviton, hubbell, etc...most any electrical supply house has name brand outlets and switches.

Several dollars each, instead of $.49-.89...

Most of the "name brand" products have cheap receptacle and switches (typically labeled residential") and better receptacles and switches. As stated the better are more expensive and also have "side clamps".

Leviton residential 15A duplex receptacle 5325 $0.68
Leviton commercial 15A duplex outlet BR15 - $1.99

 

[rlitman]

leviton, hubbell, etc...most any electrical supply house has name brand outlets and switches.

Several dollars each, instead of $.49-.89...

+1 for Hubbell. They've got the BEST stuff out there.
Leviton has good stuff, and they have cheap stuff. 95% of what's in the box stores is the cheap stuff, but the "spec grade" parts are really good.

That being said, today's cheap outlets are superior to spec grade parts from 20 years ago, and I'm generally pretty happy with the cheap stuff nowadays.

 

[PhysicsDude]

For garage use I only use commercial or industrial rated devices. Not too pricey if you order them 10+ at a time online.

I used these in my garage and am happy with them:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N1VQ2MA/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[sberry]

I use the cheap stuff, have hundreds and can't even remember the last time I replaced one.

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

When you look at the big box store (I usually buy electrical stuff at HD because its close), you'll see lower and higher priced options. I think you get pretty much what you pay for. I used 20amp receptacles in the race shop when I wired it. Make sure you get receptacles that allow you to "back wire" (NOT "back stab", there is a huge difference). All my outlets are back wired.

 

[MikeF2316]

Both Lowes and Home Depot have outlets and switches for less than a buck, and some that are $5-7. The more expensive ones certainly look better, but the price differential is ridiculous. But since I buy so few, so infrequently, I buy the more expensive ones. The trick is they're not side by side on the shelf, you have to look through the whole section to see their complete selection.

 

[sberry]

When I started this I felt different and needed special ones, like I needed something better than most people. 40 years later I found it doesn't make much difference.

 

[rlitman]

When I started this I felt different and needed special ones, like I needed something better than most people. 40 years later I found it doesn't make much difference.

40 years ago, most outlets were **** compared to what you find today. Perhaps the improvements in across the board over that time have influenced your shift in opinion.

They ALL used to have awfully brittle face plates, and only ones will full steel back straps riveted to the body were safe. It used to be that cheaper outlets had thinner metal parts inside that would loosen up over time to the point that you'd get a high resistance connection to the plug, leading to plugs overheating.

I remember when I used to pay a premium for outlets with unbreakable nylon face plates. Nowadays, that's all you can get, and even the 49 cent variety are shatterproof. Plus, with full thermoplastic bodies, they now ultrasonic weld the cases, which IMNSHO is superior to the riveting of yesterear.

All of this has been through incremental improvements in UL standards. I find it unfortunate that most of this is hidden from the public view behind their paywall, but even if the changes are unseen, at least we get to reap the benefits.

 

[Stuart in MN]

I use the cheap stuff, have hundreds and can't even remember the last time I replaced one.

I've had to replace several of the cheap receptacles in my house over the years. The plastic they're made of is hard and brittle, and can chip easily if a power cord isn't plugged or unplugged carefully. I also had a switch that failed - I'd turn it off but I could hear it buzzing and arcing internally.

As for finding better quality switches and receptacles, the big box stores do sell them. They are just in a different part of the electrical aisle. There are several 'levels' of them - you probably don't need to buy the most expensive ones, but look for ones that are made with higher grade materials.

 

[EOC_Jason]

Check with a local electrical supply house for some heavy duty switches / receptacles?

 

[nh_yota]

Never use the back-stabs on receptacles because they are prone to failing, especially in shops or garages which see frequent temperature changes. Always use the side screws or back clamps. Most back-stab receptacles only accept 14 gauge wire so it's a moot point for most of us who are wiring shops or garages.

I tend to use the commercial-grade receptacles because they are better than the cheap ones but don't cost $6 apiece like the industrial/spec-grade ones. The easy way to tell the difference between residential and commercial-grade receptacles is that the commercial ones have a brass self-grounding tab on the bottom mounting screw because they are designed to be used with EMT and metal boxes.

 

[Lelandwelds]

40 years ago, most outlets were **** compared to what you find today. Perhaps the improvements in across the board over that time have influenced your shift in opinion.

They ALL used to have awfully brittle face plates, and only ones will full steel back straps riveted to the body were safe. It used to be that cheaper outlets had thinner metal parts inside that would loosen up over time to the point that you'd get a high resistance connection to the plug, leading to plugs overheating.

I remember when I used to pay a premium for outlets with unbreakable nylon face plates. Nowadays, that's all you can get, and even the 49 cent variety are shatterproof. Plus, with full thermoplastic bodies, they now ultrasonic weld the cases, which IMNSHO is superior to the riveting of yesterear.

All of this has been through incremental improvements in UL standards. I find it unfortunate that most of this is hidden from the public view behind their paywall, but even if the changes are unseen, at least we get to reap the benefits.

Never use the back-stabs on receptacles because they are prone to failing,

.

+1

Also, dont shop at big boxes so much. Meeting a price point to sell to the uninformed is not a strategy for quality.

 

[Git]

Lowes and Home Depot have decent outlets - you just have to look

I just bought some "Pass & Seymour" 20 amp outlets from Lowes for a reasonable price. They are 'Back and Side Wire' which is what I prefer

I think this is them, but mine were in gray. They work for me...
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Pass-Seymo...r-Duplex-Wall-Tamper-Resistant-Outlet/3364978

 

[Bert_]

Some people are making it seem like you need 20A outlets. Do you have any tools with a 20a plug? because that's the only reason to use them. Fact is, within the same product line, 15 and 20 amp outlets are exactly the same except for the little slot on the face. The 20 amp outlets usually carry a little higher price tag than a 15 amp version of the same outlet.

Please not that I am not comparing a 20 amp "commercial" grade outlet to a cheap 15 amp residential grade one.

I usually use P&S stuff and the commercial grade line is good quality for the price point. The devices are easily spotted by the part numbers which begins with CR (commercial receptacle) or CS (commercial switch)

 

[ard]

I like the leviton 5252



You can rear wire them, but it is a positive clamping action with the screw, NOT the spring clamp

 

[79rallysport]

Hubbell Industrial is the best in my opinion. The electrical supply houses around here don't carry the Hubbell Industrial because of the price. People want cheap cheap cheap. You get what you pay for.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LE6N56/ref=psdc_6291365011_t1_B000LEZZJ6

 

[Git]

Hubbell Industrial is the best in my opinion. The electrical supply houses around here don't carry the Hubbell Industrial because of the price. People want cheap cheap cheap. You get what you pay for.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LE6N56/ref=psdc_6291365011_t1_B000LEZZJ6

Well - why you 'cheaping out' then, shouldn't you be buying the hospital grade one for $17.26 per outlet? Remember, you get what you pay for

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LEHL52/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Or you can go all out and buy this beautiful orange colored, 20 amp Hubbel outlet for $44
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNQRYVO/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Here - you can save some money. 10 of them for only $356
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OA46C9U/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Matt Matt]

I’ve built dies for contacts and connections for AB, LG, HB and most recently GE. They all use different materials different melting points. I will first and foremost caution everybody even electricians, do not use the stab! Under load tests they fault or fuse at 2-3 times Amp rating. A side screw if properly installed and torqued Will handle 10xA rating.

The Stab is a knife edge contact, It is usually not allowed in industrial situations. This is why it’s not available on industrial outlets, and you’ll pay A few dollars more than $.69.

Take apart two plugs, You’ll Quickly see the difference.

If there’s actually A few different mainstream outlet, i’m willing to test them.

 

[Crazyjake8493]

The big box stores should have multiple grades of switches and receptacles. Usually the $5-10 boxes for lower quality, and then $2-5 per device in single boxes up on the shelf somewhere for the higher quality.

I've used many, many of the 10pk cheap devices and never had an issue, but I do agree they feel less substantial. I often compromise and use the cheap ones for areas that do not see as much use, and use the higher quality in main hallways, living room, bath room, areas that see a lot of use.

 

[sberry]

I don't add much to old work, I replace everything I can but better recepts are handy in old boxes where clamp on make for good feed thru without adding pigtails and wire nuts.

I've used many, many of the 10pk cheap devices and never had an issue, but I do agree they feel less substantial. I often compromise and use the cheap ones for areas that do not see as much use, and use the higher quality in main hallways, living room, bath room, areas that see a lot of use.

Same here but I really started using them everywhere. I kind of graduated to that. I put some on my main bench, the duty was high for a while. They worked as well as any other I ever used. I replaced a lot of old broke ones with them and they still work.

 

[Toothaker]

Nah! Ya gotta get them gold plated ones.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07573WGYR/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Yes, $164 each.