switches/boxes too deep.

[iibgdi]

We have a cabin that we did some remodeling to.

There are 2 Decora /rocker switch lights (triple switches) that we put in the dining area that are too deep. The box was mounted too far in and now there is a gap between the switches and the covers. One is really bad. The other isnt as bad but still noticeable.

What options do we have to fix this? Is there an extension for the boxes? Or something like that?

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[The Cobbler]

put a bushing over the screw so that the switches are sitting flush with the drywall where they're supposed to be . Electrician I know does this all the time and he uses a pc of insulation of of say a #8 or so cable cut to proper lenght

 

[cat06]

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbrande...-2/202708650?keyword=electrical+box+extenders

 

[jhelrey]

Outlet spacers found at any home improvement store...

https://www.google.com/search?q=out...1%2F03%2Fboard-and-batten-complete%2F;453;480

 

[Norcal]

Take a scratch awl & wrap some 14 AWG bare copper around it to make a spiral of sufficient length, then w/ a pair of dykes it can be adjusted to support the device. Another method is use longer 6/32 screws w/ a 6/32 nut behind the yolk of the switches to hold it in place, one of my pet peeves is sloppy setting of boxes resulting in floating devices, not as much of a problem with switches as there are other ways to make it work, but a huge problem with receptacles & the plate shattering the first time a plug is inserted, would love to see a inspector make them rip out every piece of Sheetrock® & make them reset the boxes at final inspection, that action would be more painful then thumbscrews & the rack. Just a rant on my part.

 

[Zeke]

All the spacers in the world won't bring a deep set box up to code. And I doubt it's UL approved but you can make box extenders any depth or angle with some plastic boxes and a hacksaw. Remember, the idea is to contain sparks should they occur.

 

[Norcal]

Arlington makes some non-metallic extension rings, & there are metallic ones also, Bowers catalog number is 220-EXT if my memory serves me correct, but there is a requirement that a box not be set back more then 1/4" on non-combustible material, wood or other combustible material must be flush, per 314.20.

BTW, UL does not approve anything, they list it.

 

[bill in in]

Last time I looked, code said 1/4" of the surface if fire resistant. Box extensions are not real cheap, but will solve your problem for under $10.00.

 

[iibgdi]

My wife just asked where we are going to find some dykes at this time of night......im not sure she understood the response. .......

 

[James_B]

We went through that at the place we renovated in Newfoundland. The house was only 30 years old when we moved in, but the electrics were a mess.

My guess is that more than 50% of the boxes in the house appeared to have been mounted before the sheet rock went in, and were flush with studs/back of the sheet rock. The few boxes that were actually set right usually had 1/2" or more gaps all the way around the the face of the box (the sheet rock around the boxes looked like it had been trimmed using a rabid weasel). When we moved in, where the previous owners had bothered to fit the face plates, a standard face plate wouldn't cover the gaps, and the majority of switches and outlets had no face plates at all.

We went through the house and replaced every switch and outlet, and as we did that we put in box-extenders and did a lot of patching of the sheet rock around the boxes. Unfortunately, the metal box extenders are single gang, and didn't work for double or triple width boxes, so in those cases, it was a case of open up the wall, and remount or replace the box.