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Switching from black pipe to Galvanized in air line layout

mikhett

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Sep 21, 2007
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107
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jackson nj
Ok,Ive disconnected my copper 1/2 air lines in my old garage and I'm setting up new layout in new shop.Compressor is two stage 80 gallon I've had for about 10 years.The black pipe ******* and elbow going from my flex hose was all full of rust!I run a SHARPE F 88 FILTER AND REGULATOR 35 FEET DOWNSTREAM AND NEVER had a moisture problem.I am switching to Galvanized.
 
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glentre

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May 21, 2016
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Gloucester, Virginia
Unless you have a proper vise, cutter and threading equipment, why not continue with copper, using some of the pipe taken out of the old garage? Would seem like a lot less trouble. Agree that black pipe is a rust pit if water gets in the lines. Perhaps your old system was installed such that condensation accumulated where it should not at the ******* and elbow. Properly installed and pitched piping should not be a problem with moisture accumulation.

Glen
 
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mikhett

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jackson nj
Im going with 1/2" copper for the trunk lines and drop-offs(1) but galvanized ******* and elbows.
 

Falcon67

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Merkel, TX
I mix and match because seems no store has the thing in the type you want at that moment. I only use filters or traps at point-of-use. No problems. When I laid this out, copper was way big $$$. I use cheap fittings and if I don't want leaks, I use JB weld on the connections. If that section needs service, I have a sawsall - pipe is cheap.
 

lakeroadster

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Central Colorado
Ok,Ive disconnected my copper 1/2 air lines in my old garage and I'm setting up new layout in new shop.Compressor is two stage 80 gallon I've had for about 10 years.The black pipe ******* and elbow going from my flex hose was all full of rust!I run a SHARPE F 88 FILTER AND REGULATOR 35 FEET DOWNSTREAM AND NEVER had a moisture problem.I switching to Galvanized.

It happens.. and it always will unless everything from the compressor air inlet through to the outlet of every device is made from a non-ferrous material.

Steel stuff rusts... even those galvanized pipes and pipe fittings will have machine cut threads and machined surfaces that will be exposed in the air stream that aren't galvanized.

Has the rust ever caused you a problem in all the years you have used your shop?
 

moneypit_k5

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Aug 13, 2014
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Near portland or
Going galv seems like a real pain. Your stuck with precut lengths. And pretty big cost.
Seems to me it really doesnt matter how rusty my pipe is so long as i have a good filter.
Going galv wont negate the need for a filter so how does the end result change?

I am intrigued by the copper run. Seems you wouldnt have any concern of leaks any more. That is one complaint with my steel pipe, seems theres always some parasitic loss and i can never seem to find it.
 

bigcreek

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May 11, 2013
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Idaho
I have around a couple hundred feet of black pipe in my shop and it is tight as a drum. No pressure loss at all that I can tell.
 

LXCam

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AZ
You don't loose pressure, you loose volume.
Becomes a problem when you need lots of air for things like spray painting or sandblasting.


Are you trying to say that size for size between two different types of pipe you're going to see some measurable amount of loss???
 

csp

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Franktown, CO
You don't loose pressure, you loose volume.
Becomes a problem when you need lots of air for things like spray painting or sandblasting.

Interesting comment when there's no mention of size whatsoever.

BTW, it's lose, not loose (opposite of tight).
 
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sberry

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You don't loose pressure, you loose volume.
Becomes a problem when you need lots of air for things like spray painting or sandblasting.

Neither one of these take huge volumes of air, a 3/8 hose will drain a 5 hp comp in a hurry. About the only place a small shop would ever see a delivery issue is using very large air guns most don't even own, 3/4 and inch tools. Even then 1/2 pipe will serve 3/4 well. Almost all the losses in these types of systems are down the final hose. 2# loss on a 1/2 main and 35# loss down 50 ft of 3/8 hose with a heavy 1/2 gun. And about .06 difference on the main between 1/2 and 3/4
 

soapii

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SE Michigan
I did my whole shop with galvanized pipe, has worked great for years with zero issues and zero rust.

--Joe
 

moneypit_k5

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Near portland or
You are not stuck to precut lengths of black pipe or galvanized if you have a pipe threader :thumbup:

--Joe

Somehow it didnt occur to me that Galv could be bought in 20' sticks as well.

Doesn't make sense seeing as the cuts would be bare steel, defeating the purpose of galv.

Btw I have a threader. It doesnt **** to own :)
 

ddawg16

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S. California
I did all of my garage with 3/4" copper. Yea, it's more expensive....but it's easier to fit into certain places....doesn't rust....doesn't flake....
 

FrancisJ

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Mar 18, 2015
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Lessons learned from my 100 ft / 175 psi system>

Initially used RapidAir but the fittings starting leaking badly roughly 3 months after install. (And that was after a "bubble" leak test during installation)

Replaced with 1/2" galvanized, but vol wasn't enough to drive a media blaster I have at the "end of the line".

Now doing a section by section replacement with 3/4" galvanized. Observations:

(1) Tried the Oatey PTFE-based thread sealant (white, non-hardening, setting) -- interim leaks tests showed approx 15% of the fittings leaking. I've used an almost identical product in the past from RectorSeal with similar issues. Moved to Oatey FasTape and Oatey Megatape (both 3.5 mils thick) and "bubble" tests are coming back with no leaks across the board. It's important to wrap the tape in the direction of the threads.

(2) coupling.jpg While these work, they make disconnects/mods difficult later.

(3) union.jpg These have been useful as they provide you a means to "break into" a section easier. I did have one fail a leak test --- probably a quality control problem with the manufacturer.

(4) Filters are critical as galvanized "flakes" are possible. I have Parker 40 micron filters in each section along with a Parker 5 micron filter at the port feeding the spray gun.


Warning: multiple internet sites recommend AGAINST galvanized pipe for the aforementioned "flaking" issue. Many are actually run by the alum pipe players trying to push product. Galvanized and or black pipe (rust prone) both work fine provided you insert filters to protect tools, spray guns, etc from contamination.
 

FrancisJ

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Mar 18, 2015
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MoneyPit, I did not measure, simply resized my system (26 SCFM @ 175psi) per the compressor manufacturer's recommendation below (which I should have read before I installed it in the first place).

Minimum Pipe Size For Compressed Air Lines
(Pipe size shown in inches)
Length Of Piping System
SCFM 25 ft. 50 ft. 100 ft. 250 ft.
20 3/4 3/4 3/4 1
40 3/4 1 1 1
60 3/4 1 1 1
100 1 1 1 1-1/4
125 1-1/4 1-1/4 1-1/2 1-1/2

https://www.eatoncompressor.com/manuals
 

isb cornbinder

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Nov 3, 2010
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Pacific South West, BC, Canada
I installed black pipe air lines in my shop in 1989. I admit that there is some rusting inside the pipes but I do not care since I like to run some sort of filter at the 12 or so outlets around the shop. No, each outlet does not have a permanent filter/water separator, I have about 6 units with Milton "M" 1/4" fittings and I can move the filters around as needed.
I have two outlets set up for large Milton "M 3/8" with a 50 foot 3/8 hose.
My brother has a very large shop of over 2500 square feet. He had large copper soldered lines installed and he does not have a storage tank. His compressor is an http://www.ingersollrandproducts.co...act-cooled-air-compressors/4-11kw-5-15hp.html
I run an Ingersoll T30 on an 80 gallon tank.
 

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BD1

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north side
Not sure of current specs , but on the compressed air piping jobs galvanized was not allowed. If you want a nice clean system go to copper and use Propress fittings.
 

sberry

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Brethren, Michigan
MoneyPit, I did not measure, simply resized my system (26 SCFM @ 175psi) per the compressor manufacturer's recommendation below (which I should have read before I installed it in the first place).

Minimum Pipe Size For Compressed Air Lines
(Pipe size shown in inches)
Length Of Piping System
SCFM 25 ft. 50 ft. 100 ft. 250 ft.
20 3/4 3/4 3/4 1
40 3/4 1 1 1
60 3/4 1 1 1
100 1 1 1 1-1/4
125 1-1/4 1-1/4 1-1/2 1-1/2

https://www.eatoncompressor.com/manuals

So you didn't measure, did it not work or did you read the chart and assume it wouldnt? Does the comp run continious, shut off?
 

Moose364

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Oct 21, 2014
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282
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East Texas
Rapid air Maxine, never another problem. I have had it for 4 years and not a leak. Plus If I decide I want a drop somewhere else in my shop, it take's 10 mins to add one, it comes with a drain at every drop. Northern tool sells it also amazon
 

like2wheel

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Oct 29, 2014
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On an as needed basis
Interesting comment when there's no mention of size whatsoever.

BTW, it's lose, not loose (opposite of tight).

Sorry, I thought we were still talking about about rust problems inside black pipe.
I've had connections swell enough to cause problems from restriction.
 

lakeroadster

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Jan 19, 2015
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5,166
Location
Central Colorado
We built a new shop in 2005. When we moved in 2015 I disassembled some of my "black pipe" air lines and brought them with me for the new shop.

I ended up not using any of the salvaged black pipe for the new air system, it had quite a bit of internal rust. And we lived north of Denver Colorado where it is arid.

That being said, I never had any issues with the rust. An inline filter regulator is installed at the end of the piping run, and the system used drop legs with blow downs.

When installing the new system in 2016 I went with 3/4" galvanized pipe and galvanized fitting feed lines.

 
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