Swivel Sockets, Different Lengths Necessary? Shallow, Semi Deep, Deep

[M6erfan]

Oh man I thought your recommendation for semi deeps and mid depths was a joke. That’s disappointing.

Because I left something out?

 

[Fedwrench]

It all depends on what you work on. Sometimes, a certain length swivel socket will work without having to remove a bunch of stuff. I have shallow impact swivel socket sets in 1/4, 3/8, & 1/2 drive. I have 3/8 drive Matco deep impact swivel socket sets that are more like semi deep. I also have 3/8 deep impact swivel sockets but, rarely use them. The Matco's do the trick for what I work on.
In 1/4 drive I have shallow chrome swivel socket sets along with nut grip (my favorites). I have different lengths of 1/4 10mm swivel sockets. that's about it for me.

 

[bigfunwmu]

Man, there's a bunch of universal/swivel sockets missing from that list of swivels in the OP...

Sunex 1/2 and 3/8 impact hex (allen) swivels:

1/2" Dr. Metric Universal Hex Drive Impact Socket Set 8-Piece - SUNEX Tools

We are the industry leader for individual sockets - The Right Socket for Every Job. Stay up to date on product releases, latest developments, and more!

sunextools.com

1/2" Dr. SAE Universal Hex Bit Driver Impact Socket - SUNEX Tools

We are the industry leader for individual sockets - The Right Socket for Every Job. Stay up to date on product releases, latest developments, and more!

sunextools.com

3/8" Dr. Metric Universal Hex Bit Driver Impact So - SUNEX Tools

We are the industry leader for individual sockets - The Right Socket for Every Job. Stay up to date on product releases, latest developments, and more!

sunextools.com

3/8" Dr. SAE Universal Hex Bit Driver Impact Socke - SUNEX Tools

We are the industry leader for individual sockets - The Right Socket for Every Job. Stay up to date on product releases, latest developments, and more!

sunextools.com

Sunex 12 point driveline swivel sockets:

1/2" Dr Metric 12pt Driveline Socket Set 9-Piece - SUNEX Tools

We are the industry leader for individual sockets - The Right Socket for Every Job. Stay up to date on product releases, latest developments, and more!

sunextools.com

1/2" Dr SAE 12pt Driveline Socket Set 7-Piece - SUNEX Tools

We are the industry leader for individual sockets - The Right Socket for Every Job. Stay up to date on product releases, latest developments, and more!

sunextools.com

Sunex universal spark plug sockets:

4 pc 3/8" Dr. Universal Spark Plug Socket Set - SUNEX Tools

We are the industry leader for individual sockets - The Right Socket for Every Job. Stay up to date on product releases, latest developments, and more!

sunextools.com

Astro extra long 6 point impact swivels

10pc 3/8" Dr 6Pt Pinless Universal Torque-Saver Impact Extension Socket Set | Astro Pneumatic Tools

• No-skip set from 10mm to 19mm, 9” long 3/8” drive 6-point pinless impact universal extension sockets • Heavy-Duty TORQUE-SAVER design utilizes overbuilt j ...

www.astrotools.com

VIM e-torx swivels:

UJET400 - VIM Tools

Universal Joint E-Torx 1/4" drive Set, Inverted Torx drivers E4 thru E16

vimtools.com

Can't forget the Koken Torx and E-torx universals:

1/4" Chrome Sockets - Ko-ken USA

- Ko-ken USA

kokenusa.com

Or the Koken impact swivels, including extra long hex/allen swivels:

3/8" Impact Sockets

We are the North American Source of Ko-ken Tools from Japan. Our parent company, Ko-ken Tools, is a fourth generation family owned and operated business in Japan, with 140+ employees. The focus of the business is entirely on Sockets and Socket wrenches.

kokenusa.com

 

[threewood]

Did you look at the OPs list?

I don't have a problem with 1 or even 2 sets, but 36 full sets of swivel sockets is cuckooland

Hmmm. I didn't realize the OP was suggesting to buy every damn one of them. That is crazy. I suggested the shallow set of chrome as that is what I use the most.

 

[YoshiMoshi3]

First off, your socket length descriptions are wrong.

Here is the proper list . . .

Low profile
Shallow
Mid-length
Semi-deep
Long
Deep

What is the difference between Low profile and shallow? What is the difference between mid-length and semi-deep? I thought one company calls the sockets between Shallow and Deep "Mid-Length" while others call them "Semi-Deep", but in the end are referring to the same thing. What are "Long" sockets? Never heard of that one before,

My question was if there is an application for deep universal sockets? Based on the responses, it seems like the answer is yes. Swivel sockets are used in tight clearance situations when the thickness of the head of your ratchet/impact gun/breaker bar does not allow the square anvil to be directly over the fastener your trying to remove, and can only be over the fastener at an angle. Deep well universal sockets add extra length, but would this extra length mean that you have the clearance to just use a regular socket, and can be directly over the fastener.

Generic brand 3/8 universal impact deep sockets are about 3 inches or so, while stubby 3/8 impacts might be around 30 mm or about 1.2 inches. So we are talking the difference of maybe two inches or so depending on what brand you use. There are a lot of ratchets/breaker bars whose head thickness is less than 2 inches in height. This was my initial thought process, that deep universals seems unnecessary, but it seems like deep universals may have an application in which a regular stubby socket simply will not work??

 

[AEAdam]

Low profile are non standard specialty sockets. Either the broach is shallow like Koken, or the socket has a full depth broach, but has a shallow anvil on the ratchet like Snap On.

Normal shallows use regular ratchets and feature broaches at least as deep as a nut.

I thought @M6erfan was joking about semi deep and mid depth sockets. I think they are different terms for the same concept, a socket depth inbetween shallow and deep. Different manufacturers offer different variations in heights, so the names aren’t super descriptive.

Some manufacturers make very short shallows like Snap On, which can get you out of jambs. Sometimes they are so short, you don’t have clearance to comfortably swing your ratchet handle, which is where semi deeps become favorable.

There are rare times when a nut is threaded on an all-thread rod (like battery hold downs or starter connectors). In these cases, a deep socket is convenient. Otherwise deeps are often used as shallows+short extension for additional clearance.

So again, shallow shallows are nice. I chose semi deeps over real deeps for 1/4” drive. I’d start with semi deeps. Shallow swivels are probably the most useful and I feel are must haves.

Impacts are similar. Guys use deeps just for clearance to the nose of the gun. Shallows, something deep and shallow swivels are the most useful. BTW, from the YouTube testing I watched recently, the reviewers found the heavy duty impact sockets were better at removing stuck hardware than thin walled models.

 

[oldschoolcraft]

Normal shallows use regular ratchets and feature broaches at least as deep as a nut.

Hey Adam,

You are a genius with the science around this stuff. I'm wondering if clearance isn't an issue. Suppose you're taking an axle off the car. Would using a shallow versus a deep make a difference with respect to torque delivery? Either if using an impact wrench or a ratchet?

It would seem like unless you need to use a deep socket, then using a shallow socket is better, because by virtue of the deep socket being further away from the anvil of the tool, if the fastener only seats in the last 1/3 of the socket, then the force coming from the anvil is going to be coming from further away as compared to a shallow socket where the anvil is basically smooshed up against the fastener head.

If I'm correct, then you'd want to lose the least deep fastener possible to achieve appropriate contact around the fastener.

 

[YoshiMoshi3]

Has anyone ever been in the situation where:

Semi-Deep Swivel Socket OR Deep Swivel Socket, was your only way to remove a fastener, and a universal joint + socket was to deep?

I've been in the situation before, where shallow was to short and a deep was to deep. This was for a water pump pulley, where I had to go through the pulley to get to it. Needed a 14 mm socket whose overall length was between 30 mm or 38 mm in overall length in 3/8" drive. Shallow was to shallow, deep was to deep and I was up against the firewall. However, a semi deep in 3/8" is typically 45 mm in overall length. So even a semi deep wasn't able to save me, so I had to use a 14 mm socket in 1/2 drive whose overall length was 30 mm, and a thin 1/2 ratchet.

Meaning I ALMOST was in a situation where a semi deep would have been the only way for me, in this one situation, to remove a fastener. I have found 3/8 drive 14 mm sockets whose overall length was between 30 mm and 38 mm, but they are not to common semi deep lengths.

Anyways, has anyone come across the situation where a semi deep or deep swivel socket was the only way you could remove the fastener, and a universal joint plus a semi deep or deep was to long in overall length?

Looking at snap on catalog in 3/8 drive:
RFSM14 = 3/8" drive low profile 14 mm socket in 6 point Chrome Overall Length = 18.7 mm
FSM141 = 3/8" drive shallow 14 mm socket in 6 point Chrome Overall Length = 25.4 mm
FSMS14 = 3/8" drive semi-deep 14 mm socket in 6 point Chrome Overall Length = 41.3 mm
SFSM14 = 3/8" drive deep 14 mm socket in 6 point Chrome Overall Length = 60.3 mm
FSUM14A = 3/8" drive shallow 14 mm socket in 6 point Chrome Universal Overall Length = 45.5 mm
SFSUM14 = 3/8" drive Deep 14 mm socket in 6 point Chrome Universal Overall Length = 61.1 mm
FU80B = 3/8" drive Universal Joint Chrome Universal Overall Length = 1 11/16" = 42.8625 mm

 

[T444e]

Semi-Deep Swivel Socket OR Deep Swivel Socket, was your only way to remove a fastener, and a universal joint + socket was to deep?

Yes, I had an instance on an exhaust stud where a deep swivel impact was the only thing that would work. Horrible angle and couldn't get leverage with a ratchet. Didn't try a universal (if memory serves me right, the combo would be too long) as I do not have, and will not buy any impact universals. So I did the right thing and bought a 1/2 drive deep metric swivel impact socket set, for a single socket to remove (2) hex nuts.

 

[AEAdam]

Has anyone ever been in the situation where:

Semi-Deep Swivel Socket OR Deep Swivel Socket, was your only way to remove a fastener, and a universal joint + socket was to deep?

No. Swivels are good to have. I feel like the shallow swivels are the most useful. The deeper the swivel is, the easiest it is to just use a wobble or a uni. This assumes you don’t need a deeper socket due to a deep counterbore or thread protrusion.

I've been in the situation before, where shallow was to short and a deep was to deep. This was for a water pump pulley, where I had to go through the pulley to get to it. Needed a 14 mm socket whose overall length was between 30 mm or 38 mm in overall length in 3/8" drive. Shallow was to shallow, deep was to deep and I was up against the firewall. However, a semi deep in 3/8" is typically 45 mm in overall length. So even a semi deep wasn't able to save me, so I had to use a 14 mm socket in 1/2 drive whose overall length was 30 mm, and a thin 1/2 ratchet.

What vehicle has water pumps on the back of the engine? My land rover had belts on both ends of the engine, but pretty sure no water pump, and no 14mm.

Some cars need special tools. Maybe that was the situation you were in. Not sure I’d buy a set of sockets based on that one situation.

Recommend a set of shallow swivels 10-17mm at least (my SO set has a couple skips IIRC. Haven’t missed them). Then a good set of wobble extensions or lock wobbles. Last, a universal joint, Tho, I never use mine. 99%, wobble extension save my ***. OnLy 1% do I turn to swivels, tho this depends on the vehicle.

The Honda I worked on today is a good and very popular car. But it’s kind of a pain to work on, The engine bay is super cramped. And Honda really focuses their efforts on exactly what their customers want and absolutely nothing else. The engine is crammed between the front keels/(inner fender). Undoubtedly to save pennies, the ac lines run diagonally over the top of the serpentine belt. And there’s a certain form of ****** where, immediately adjacent to the cramped area where you need to work, are sharp plastics or sheet metal, thin razor sharp **** that cut my hands and arms.

(I guess that’s a power steering line at top. It was right in the way).

For these vehicles, and the many others like them, you really need all the trick tools you can get. I used the heck out of my locking extensions and my SO FLL80, not for torque but for reach.

Skippable Honda anecdote: my first car was a 76? civic. Piece of ****, but still have a soft spot. 25 or 30 yrs ago, I had a job interview in Marysville (home of the Civic etc). Interviewer read my resume which was all aerospace. I talked about parts and materials because I couldn’t say too much about programs. I’ll never forget my interviewers response to my resume: “we don’t use exotic materials at Honda, we use cheapest materials possible!”

 

[humber2]

I see that there are swivel or universal sockets of different lengths, just like normal sockets. Shallow swivel, semi-deep swivel and deep swivel sockets.

My question is, is there really a need for 3 different lengths swivel sockets? I'd imagine if you could get a deep swivel socket on something you could get a regular non swivel socket on it as well? I see shallow ones are great, for when it is at an angle and for clearance issues.

If so it seems like a complete socket set for passenger vehicles (not heavy duty) would include

1/4 chrome shallow
1/4 impact shallow
1/4 chrome universal shallow
1/4 impact universal shallow
1/4 chrome semi deep
1/4 impact semi deep
1/4 chrome universal semi deep
1/4 impact universal semi deep
1/4 chrome deep
1/4 impact deep
1/4 chrome universal deep
1/4 impact universal deep

3/8 chrome shallow
3/8 impact shallow
3/8 chrome universal shallow
3/8 impact universal shallow
3/8 chrome semi deep
3/8 impact semi deep
3/8 chrome universal semi deep
3/8 impact universal semi deep
3/8 chrome deep
3/8 impact deep
3/8 chrome universal deep
3/8 impact universal deep

1/2 chrome shallow
1/2 impact shallow
1/2 chrome universal shallow
1/2 impact universal shallow
1/2 chrome semi deep
1/2 impact semi deep
1/2 chrome universal semi deep
1/2 impact universal semi deep
1/2 chrome deep
1/2 impact deep
1/2 chrome universal deep
1/2 impact universal deep

That’s about half the number of sets you might need, your truck salesman will gladly offer up both 6 and 12 point options.

YMMV

 

[CS454]

I have a 1/4" shallow

And some universal sockets

 

[mikey03]

different lengths of 1/4 10mm swivel sockets. that's about it for me.

damn man when i read this thread I thought I’m good with my 1/4 and 3/8 shallow universals. But maybe I should buy midlength and deep 10 mm universal because 10 mm is so common.

and also a nut grip universal

and here you go reading my mind

but I know what’s gonna happen if I do that. I’ll wind up also getting 12 mm too because that’s going to be second most common on alot of Japanese stuff. But 13 mm is the same m8 bolts as 12 mm head so I guess buy that too.

And if I’m getting all the major sizes for m8 bolts and smaller I guess 8 mm is good to have.

and if I get just 9 and 11 then I can have no skips

so it dont take long to start with 10 mm and justify having every size in every type

 

[Hannahranga]

Has anyone ever been in the situation where:

Semi-Deep Swivel Socket OR Deep Swivel Socket, was your only way to remove a fastener, and a universal joint + socket was to deep?

I've been in the situation before, where shallow was to short and a deep was to deep.

Call me a barbarian but I'd probably be taking an angle grinder to a (cheap) deep socket to make it the perfect length.

I can see the appeal of a deep set of swivels for exhaust work but that's just convenience

 

[terrific]

I have needed a swivel socket once in my entire life.

 

[mikey03]

I have needed a swivel socket once in my entire life.

Damn I needed it during half of the car work I’ve done this summer. And I’m just some driveway hack working on family members cars. No way to hit the angle on one or two fasteners for each job I did without a universal.

 

[msharley]

No. Swivels are good to have. I feel like the shallow swivels are the most useful. The deeper the swivel is, the easiest it is to just use a wobble or a uni. This assumes you don’t need a deeper socket due to a deep counterbore or thread protrusion.


What vehicle has water pumps on the back of the engine? My land rover had belts on both ends of the engine, but pretty sure no water pump, and no 14mm.

Some cars need special tools. Maybe that was the situation you were in. Not sure I’d buy a set of sockets based on that one situation.

Recommend a set of shallow swivels 10-17mm at least (my SO set has a couple skips IIRC. Haven’t missed them). Then a good set of wobble extensions or lock wobbles. Last, a universal joint, Tho, I never use mine. 99%, wobble extension save my ***. OnLy 1% do I turn to swivels, tho this depends on the vehicle.

The Honda I worked on today is a good and very popular car. But it’s kind of a pain to work on, The engine bay is super cramped. And Honda really focuses their efforts on exactly what their customers want and absolutely nothing else. The engine is crammed between the front keels/(inner fender). Undoubtedly to save pennies, the ac lines run diagonally over the top of the serpentine belt. And there’s a certain form of ****** where, immediately adjacent to the cramped area where you need to work, are sharp plastics or sheet metal, thin razor sharp **** that cut my hands and arms.

(I guess that’s a power steering line at top. It was right in the way).

For these vehicles, and the many others like them, you really need all the trick tools you can get. I used the heck out of my locking extensions and my SO FLL80, not for torque but for reach.

Skippable Honda anecdote: my first car was a 76? civic. Piece of ****, but still have a soft spot. 25 or 30 yrs ago, I had a job interview in Marysville (home of the Civic etc). Interviewer read my resume which was all aerospace. I talked about parts and materials because I couldn’t say too much about programs. I’ll never forget my interviewers response to my resume: “we don’t use exotic materials at Honda, we use cheapest materials possible!”

Ahhhh! So!!

 

[msharley]

I have needed a swivel socket once in my entire life.

Invest in a lottery ticket.

 

[Hannahranga]

Invest in a lottery ticket.

No need, I suspect he's just cursed himself

 

[Semi-hole mechanic]

A 1/4 drive deep swivel would have come in handy changing the thermostat on my ‘92 Taurus. But I made do with a deep socket and a universal adapter. Also had to put it at the end of a short extension so I could have a little more room to turn my ratchet. Rarely use my swivel adapters and this is the only case where a swivel socket would have really helped, but I was able to do it with a little effort.

 

[john.k]

You need a swivel socket for the underneath fasteners on the D9H intercooler ..........and no other swivel but a CAT branded one will fit .....only a few thou in it ,but nothing else will fit.

 

[cherrybomb]

You need a swivel socket for the underneath fasteners on the D9H intercooler ..........and no other swivel but a CAT branded one will fit .....only a few thou in it ,but nothing else will fit

This had to be frustrating for you and a WTH was that engineers thinking

 

[username2]

I hate to admit how many years I was good with a small set of Craftsman 3/8" regular 12 pt SAE sockets-in-a-tray and then expanded to their metric equivalents when I went through a bunch of Datsun 510s. There was a mostly unused 1/2" set. Still have them.

I fully admit that a professional mechanic working on the modern brand o' the day where everything is insanely crammed in there probably needs a drawer-full. Newer cars just make me want to cry, so the only needed tool is a handkerchief.

 

[AEAdam]

Call me a barbarian but I'd probably be taking an angle grinder to a (cheap) deep socket to make it the perfect length.

This sounds like a popular idea, but in reality, it’s not so easy to saw off a socket. They are pretty hard. You will likely destroy the temper so the remaining tool could be one time only.

Additionally, not all deep sockets have deep broaches. Craftsman did, Snap On never has. And more and more manufacturers of cheap sockets are copying snap on designs. So it’s not a given that you could saw off a deep socket.

In the end, I think what you would do, what most of us would do and have done is use wrenches, or simply remove more of the car. Having done that, and modified tools as you suggest, I think many of us have come to the conclusion that even a set of expensive specialty sockets is worth having, even for those rare occassions.

Back to the core of this thread, if you go back and read what a pro like @2ndGearRubber has, he has just about every size and shape of socket there is. For pros, that’s not just efficient, it’s essential. Not being a pro, I do not have everything. I would say for people like me, I rely on high quality basic tools. I have and depend on a few “specialty“ tools that really aren’t special at all, which is the whole point here. Wobble extensions, swivel sockets, swivel torx, and a few fancy wrenches (e.g. Snap On “high performance” DBEs) will get you through almost every job.

 

[john.k]

If you have the standard Caterpillar toolkit,there is nothing on a Cat that is difficult to do .......there is always clearance for a spanner to remove fasteners without removing other items for access .

 

[2ndGearRubber]

This sounds like a popular idea, but in reality, it’s not so easy to saw off a socket. They are pretty hard. You will likely destroy the temper so the remaining tool could be one time only.

Additionally, not all deep sockets have deep broaches. Craftsman did, Snap On never has. And more and more manufacturers of cheap sockets are copying snap on designs. So it’s not a given that you could saw off a deep socket.

In the end, I think what you would do, what most of us would do and have done is use wrenches, or simply remove more of the car. Having done that, and modified tools as you suggest, I think many of us have come to the conclusion that even a set of expensive specialty sockets is worth having, even for those rare occassions.

Back to the core of this thread, if you go back and read what a pro like @2ndGearRubber has, he has just about every size and shape of socket there is. For pros, that’s not just efficient, it’s essential. Not being a pro, I do not have everything. I would say for people like me, I rely on high quality basic tools. I have and depend on a few “specialty“ tools that really aren’t special at all, which is the whole point here. Wobble extensions, swivel sockets, swivel torx, and a few fancy wrenches (e.g. Snap On “high performance” DBEs) will get you through almost every job.

Specialty options certainly do help. Not only to get the job done, but keep your blood pressure in check and the skin on your hands/arms. Do a lot of work, and you start to really prize keeping the outer layer of skin in one piece as those deep scrapes and cuts just make the next job worse. It's just a graph with effort/aggravation versus $$$.

If you're not making a living with it, or you limit your scope of work in some way, you can limit what you "have" to have. Few people have the tools to re-sleeve a semi truck, rebuild a Hyundai DSG trans, pull a dash in a Honda, timing chain on an Audi, then setup a differential on a Model T. It simply isn't in the scope which most people expose themselves to. Thank god, because you'd need a golf cart to travel the multi-acre complex of toolboxes. Bringing that extreme example back to hand tools, one can almost always get away without the magic special hand tool. IMO, it's better to slum it occasionally and decide what your time and money are worth. I would not suggest a $60 1/4 swivel E10 socket to change one thermostat on a Cruze. If you're doing 30 of them? Buy the socket. Sometimes it's just better to waste 1 hour on some BS than try to anticipate all the variables of what you could need.


I think we get hung up on "right" or "correct". There's the bare minimum, most would agree that's deep/shallow in the 3 drive sizes. We can go back and forth about if impact/chrome are needed per drive size, but as a base you can do a lot with that. I did a lot with that. After the base, it's really about what you're willing to spend, what extra time you're willing to take, and possible consequential damage you're willing to accept. I wouldn't call my socket choices essential, but it certainly makes things easier. What's your time worth? Your blood pressure? How important is the $100 or $500 you'll spend on the solution?

 

[Cruzan80]

Still trying to find a better solution than the $60 SnapOn swivel for the Subaru Brake Calipers... All ears if someone has an idea. Don't have a lift, so only have so much leverage with a DBE on it.

 

[dchawk81]

Still trying to find a better solution than the $60 SnapOn swivel for the Subaru Brake Calipers... All ears if someone has an idea. Don't have a lift, so only have so much leverage with a DBE on it.

Sell the Subaru.

60 bucks sounds cheap chips to me.

 

[Cruzan80]

Yeah, I just have one Subaru, and have needed it once/twice total. Annoying design, for a home mechanic. And the fact that nobody else even has an option to fit it bugs me. Also, since I don't have a driver, SO's website has been in/out of stock on it, and I have to think about it ahead of time to make sure it would be here when I actually need it.

Not so much the price, but the "principal" of the thing. It is my wife's car, so can't sell it. Otherwise, it has been fairly good to us (9.5yrs, 85K, not too much in repairs that wasn't self inflicted).

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Still trying to find a better solution than the $60 SnapOn swivel for the Subaru Brake Calipers... All ears if someone has an idea. Don't have a lift, so only have so much leverage with a DBE on it.

You other options are:

1) 3/8 drive stubby socket, not shallow, on a wobble extension to get you past the strut bolt
2) Long zero-offset wrench (my preference for removal without the socket)
3) Remove lower strut bolt, body of the strut is still mostly in the way.
4) Torque adapter at 90 degrees from the ratchet.

All of these kind of ****. My coworkers thought I was a fool to buy that socket. I did 3 or 4 front axles of rust belt subaru brakes in 1 day, and that socket paid for itself easily.

EDIT:

Depending on brand of wobble extension I believe a stubby 1/2 on a wobble extension can break it free, but cannot fully remove the bolt.

 

[Cruzan80]

May try a stubby w/a wobble extension. Options 2 and 4, I don't have the leverage on jack stands to muscle it free. They haven't been touched in years, and even in CO, it does tend to "lock" in place. And we live on a dirt road, so dust gets everywhere under there.

Mostly concerned if a tire place accidentally strips the lug bolts (did it to another of our cars, but could replace those without too much trouble), or something else that I HAVE to free the caliper for to make it driveable.

Probably going to just spend the $60, and then if needed, sell the socket with the car.

 

[speed bump]

I've got some HF deep impact swivel sockets that are handy for suspension work when you want to use the impact rather than break out a ratchet. Not necessary but they were $20.

This sounds like a popular idea, but in reality, it’s not so easy to saw off a socket. They are pretty hard. You will likely destroy the temper so the remaining tool could be one time only.

Additionally, not all deep sockets have deep broaches. Craftsman did, Snap On never has. And more and more manufacturers of cheap sockets are copying snap on designs. So it’s not a given that you could saw off a deep socket.

Not working on cars I've modified a lot of sockets including, cutting, grinding, boring them out, welding on them and other than cracking the thin ones they have been fine. I've never found modifying a socket to be difficult no matter the brand.

 

[MovingAlong]

My question is, is there really a need for 3 different lengths swivel sockets?

Yes, there is.

Do you need them? You wouldn't be asking if you did, you'd already have them.

So, next question...

 

[2ndGearRubber]

May try a stubby w/a wobble extension. Options 2 and 4, I don't have the leverage on jack stands to muscle it free. They haven't been touched in years, and even in CO, it does tend to "lock" in place. And we live on a dirt road, so dust gets everywhere under there.

Mostly concerned if a tire place accidentally strips the lug bolts (did it to another of our cars, but could replace those without too much trouble), or something else that I HAVE to free the caliper for to make it driveable.

Probably going to just spend the $60, and then if needed, sell the socket with the car.

The reason they freeze in place is the shank rusts in place through the knuckle. I put anti-seize in that area, not the threaded area, to mitigate that. The other reason is torque. Some of those bolts are only 59ft/lb, but because of the large head I think people overtighten them. Of course as you've seen, getting sockets onto the hardware is tough so I can see why they're not torqued all the time.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

I've got some HF deep impact swivel sockets that are handy for suspension work when you want to use the impact rather than break out a ratchet. Not necessary but they were $20.



Not working on cars I've modified a lot of sockets including, cutting, grinding, boring them out, welding on them and other than cracking the thin ones they have been fine. I've never found modifying a socket to be difficult no matter the brand.

Cut-off wheel go BRRR.

 

[speed bump]

Cut-off wheel go BRRR.

As my grandpa said. Tools shouldn't get in the way of getting the job done.

 

[AJHD]

You need a swivel socket for the underneath fasteners on the D9H intercooler ..........and no other swivel but a CAT branded one will fit .....only a few thou in it ,but nothing else will fit.

What socket would that be? Do you have a part number?

If you have the standard Caterpillar toolkit,there is nothing on a Cat that is difficult to do .......there is always clearance for a spanner to remove fasteners without removing other items for access .

What is a "standard CAT toolkit"? Is this a premade kit you can buy from CAT? Do you have a part number?

When I started at CAT they gave me a spreadsheet with tools they wanted me to have. All the specialty stuff was bought on as needed basis or borrowed from the tool room.

 

[joel63]

May try a stubby w/a wobble extension. Options 2 and 4, I don't have the leverage on jack stands to muscle it free. They haven't been touched in years, and even in CO, it does tend to "lock" in place. And we live on a dirt road, so dust gets everywhere under there.

Mostly concerned if a tire place accidentally strips the lug bolts (did it to another of our cars, but could replace those without too much trouble), or something else that I HAVE to free the caliper for to make it driveable.

Probably going to just spend the $60, and then if needed, sell the socket with the car.

Buy the socket, you'll feel better when the job is done. Then
You never know, you might need it again in the future.

 

[dchawk81]

Yeah, I just have one Subaru, and have needed it once/twice total. Annoying design, for a home mechanic. And the fact that nobody else even has an option to fit it bugs me. Also, since I don't have a driver, SO's website has been in/out of stock on it, and I have to think about it ahead of time to make sure it would be here when I actually need it.

Not so much the price, but the "principal" of the thing. It is my wife's car, so can't sell it. Otherwise, it has been fairly good to us (9.5yrs, 85K, not too much in repairs that wasn't self inflicted).

I mean you could divorce her and make her keep the car.