T&G Over drywall ceilling

[PCustoms]

Not garage, but house (above the garage). Drywall ceilling is 8' sheets covered in popcorn, you can see every joint in the light. **** joints across main living area are terrible. I've also got 4 spots where I've had to patch from ripping out walls, plenty of extra mud from the corners there that would never feather right. Not interested in scraping and fixing, did that in the smaller rooms and it looks good but too much effort here.

Plan is to cover with edge and center beadboard, perpendicular to my rafters due the orientation or the room. This means I can't nail to the existing strapping.

1. 3/4 board, 1/2 drywall, 3/4 strapping and then rafter. Assuming I nail through the tongue, do you think a 2 1/2" nail will have enough grip? I have doubts
2. What if I add liquid nails? Con: this destroys drywall if someone ever takes the T&G down.
3. Any thoughts on thin strapping? I'm 6', ceiling are just under 8', trying not to lose another 1.5"

 

[Kaizen]

Rip down the drywall. Sorry but it will be destroyed anyway with the five hundred nails you will be using. Then determine how level the bottom of the joists are. If ok attach right to floor joists. Make sure you lay out the room well so you don’t have a thin piece at the finished end. Strongly advise adding crown moldings to cover the ends.


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[PCustoms]

Drywall stays, as it has 4" of closed cell stuck to the back.

Obviously going to center everything in the room, and using moulding around the perimeter. Just haven't decider on nailing method yet.

Got 1800 lineal feet to start finishing later today.

 

[Jazzman442]

I am looking at doing the same ting on a porch. Popcorn falling off so I am scraping it smooth then want to recover with Plastic Bead Board TG. Post pictures of before and after would like to see how it went.

 

[yeldogt]

If it's not level you will see the waves == TG is easy if it's level. Pick the low spot and work from there -- do you laser it ?

 

[alexb2000]

Scrape the popcorn, wipe down with damp sponge to remove dust form wood and drywall, GOOD adhesive (PL Premium), plus nails or trim screws. I would use something like PL premium because it can fill any gaps caused by a less than flat ceiling.

I wouldn't tear down the drywall because of the mess it would make.

Agree, you'll probably have to add crown.

 

[GMCGarage]

The 70's look is coming back!

 

[PCustoms]

The 70's look is coming back!

Not really. Edge and center beadboard painted clean white looks pretty classy. House did have **** though.

Appreciate everyone's advise and opinions regarding how to hang it, but this isn't my first time. I've done enough and fixed a few ceillings in this house already that I'm not concerned with how to do this or how it will look.

Just wondering if I've missed some trick, as I'm fairly sure my nails are too short.

I'll post a pic of the bathroom later, used pvc there due to the moisture and it came out great

 

[Falcon67]

We didn't do the project, but our old house had a similar issue in the kitchen with some fiber ceiling tiles and nothing much level, flat or plumb. My plan was to use a laser level and 1x3s with shims to try and get the ceiling as flat as possible. In an old house, that's not as critical IMHO because nothing much else runs true LOL. We eventually decided not to mess with it.

>The 70's look is coming back!
No, that would be the popcorn which is on the way out in this situation

 

[Kaizen]

Main reason I said take it down is because of nail depth. I prefer to nail through the tongue with air nailer. To get a nail that long it increases size and tends to be issues with splitting the tongue.
I don’t like using adhesive. Still say **** it up and cut it down to do it right. Good luck


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[The Cobbler]

strap again , perpendicular to what's there . nail the T&G to the new strapping

 

[mike93lx]

Check for asbestos before scraping popcorn! I don't know the exact cutoff, but my 1970 ranch has asbestos is the popcorn that covers ever ceiling in my damn house

 

[PCustoms]

Main reason I said take it down is because of nail depth. I prefer to nail through the tongue with air nailer. To get a nail that long it increases size and tends to be issues with splitting the tongue.
I don’t like using adhesive. Still say **** it up and cut it down to do it right. Good luck


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Would be nice if I could take it down. Read my post again, 4" of foam stuck to the back. Didn't have any lights in until after the insulation was replaced, so didn't see the shadows from the ****** tape job from 30 years ago.

I am air nailing, with 16 gauge 2.5 nails, through the tongue. Didn't split any of the last batch I did.

Just need to decide if I'm chancing glue and nails, or strapping again and loosing height

 

[APEowner]

I don't know. If it were me I think I'd add strapping. I know you don't want to loose the height but I'm not confident of enough nails going into something solid and glue just means that your T&G is hanging from the drywall which seems kind of sketchy. I'd add strapping, making sure to fasten to the rafters. That'll give you an opportunity do reestablish level before putting up the T&G.

 

[PCustoms]

I don't know. If it were me I think I'd add strapping. I know you don't want to loose the height but I'm not confident of enough nails going into something solid and glue just means that your T&G is hanging from the drywall which seems kind of sketchy. I'd add strapping, making sure to fasten to the rafters. That'll give you an opportunity do reestablish level before putting up the T&G.

I've been lean ingredient this way, just in denial hoping I am missing something. Any ideas on thin strapping? Although I suppose saving a 1/4" isn't going to make a difference.

200 sqft or so primed on the deck. Gonna run out in a bit and get another set or saw horses and and work Platform I think.

 

[dave_dj1]

2.5" nails through the sheetrock will be fine. Don't overthink/overcomplicate things.

 

[doublearon98]

I wouldn't glue since you'd basically be gluing to the paper on the sheetrock. 2.5" will be fine

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[PCustoms]

I mocked up some scrap, 2" nails would give me about 3/8" into the bottom cord of the rafter.

Odd this is what I had on hand, I guess it works as the PVC in my bathroom and the nickel gap in the laundry are holding up fine, albeit those are more like 5/8" thick

 

[PCustoms]

I mocked up some scrap, 2" nails would give me about 3/8" into the bottom cord of the rafter.

Odd this is what I had on hand, I guess it works as the PVC in my bathroom and the nickel gap in the laundry are holding up fine, albeit those are more like 5/8" thick

Tried this again with 2.5" nails and just wasn't comfortable with the penetration, and knew it would be a pain to hit the hidden rafter every time.

Strapped 24" O.C., screwed through to the hidden strapping. Going to get a laser and shim everything flat, there's a noticeable hump in a few spots.

 

[Kaizen]

Tried this again with 2.5" nails and just wasn't comfortable with the penetration, and knew it would be a pain to hit the hidden rafter every time.



Strapped 24" O.C., screwed through to the hidden strapping. Going to get a laser and shim everything flat, there's a noticeable hump in a few spots.

It will be a lot easier and you know it will stay up there.


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[PoorOwner]

1) check for asbestos, there are companies where you follow instructions take a sample and send it in.

2) Sounds like alot to add lowering overall ceiling height. I assume you have that style of ceiling you have 8' ceilings probably 95.5".
I think I would notice the shorter finished height of the ceiling you proposed, and it would bother me.

3) I have waited for the popcorn to come back in style, however it doesn't appear to be.. (hey I can dream)
newer houses likely won't ever have that popcorn ceiling finish again.