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T-handled hex key advise

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kippieland

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Hi All. I need the collective wisedom of the board again. I am looking to buy a set of T-handled hex keys and I noticed there are two different types of heads out there. The sets I am looking at are a Wiha (ball at the end of the head) and Klien (traditional hex end.) I saw something that said the ball is good for tight spaces but not good for torquing things tight....true or not? What type is better and are there any other brands that I am overlooking? Thanks!
 
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afazz

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The ball is good for access, but that's correct it isn't good for high torque. Another big disadvantage to ball-end t-handles is that you can't spin them down fast. Check out Eklind, Bondhus, Snap-on, Beta, and Facom. I have all of them and they're all pretty good. Stay away from Allen and Craftsman, they're junk.
 
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larry_g

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If you have only one set I would say go with the straight, no ball. Yes the ball end are weaker. That said why are you getting T-handles? The basic L wrench will do most of the work. At one time I had 17 different sets of hex head turning tools. I usually defaulted to the L wrench set first with the ball ends. The rest were called into play when needed. I also worked in an industry where 90% of the fasteners were female hex head screws.

lg
no neat sig line
 
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WR250F

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I have the set of Kleins, they are excellent. Pricey, but excellent. I picked up the 11 piece set with the stand a couple of months ago.

CMan ball ends are ****. CMan silver handle non ball ends are excellent, heavy duty in every respect. These may have changed as the set I have is about 15 years old.

For a folder set in the truck box where space is at a premium, I went with the Husky folding set. Chicom, and they are fairly short, but they have held up well and I have no complaints whatsoever for the $5 invested.
 
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kippieland

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larry_g said:
If you have only one set I would say go with the straight, no ball. Yes the ball end are weaker. That said why are you getting T-handles? The basic L wrench will do most of the work. At one time I had 17 different sets of hex head turning tools. I usually defaulted to the L wrench set first with the ball ends. The rest were called into play when needed. I also worked in an industry where 90% of the fasteners were female hex head screws.

lg
no neat sig line
Click to expand...
I mainly work on a dirt bike and there are tight areas where you can't use the L-shape. Also, there are spots where its just faster to use them (ie handlebars, levels etc.)
 
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kippieland

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WR250F said:
I have the set of Kleins, they are excellent. Pricey, but excellent. I picked up the 11 piece set with the stand a couple of months ago.

CMan ball ends are ****. CMan silver handle non ball ends are excellent, heavy duty in every respect. These may have changed as the set I have is about 15 years old.

For a folder set in the truck box where space is at a premium, I went with the Husky folding set. Chicom, and they are fairly short, but they have held up well and I have no complaints whatsoever for the $5 invested.
Click to expand...

Do you use them on your bike? I am making an assumption by your name. The area where I was thinking the ball-end would be helpful is when I am trying to loosen the airbox behind the carb (full injection). My YZ frame interfers just enough where I can't get a super straight shot. Just curious
 
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kv501

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kippieland said:
Hi All. I need the collective wisedom of the board again. I am looking to buy a set of T-handled hex keys and I noticed there are two different types of heads out there. The sets I am looking at are a Wiha (ball at the end of the head) and Klien (traditional hex end.) I saw something that said the ball is good for tight spaces but not good for torquing things tight....true or not? What type is better and are there any other brands that I am overlooking? Thanks!
Click to expand...

I'm sure I'm in the minority here, but if it comes down to using T-handles I go straight for a ratchet with an extension and hex socket.
 
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tjmonsen5

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While it may be true that Ball ends are not as strong... your wrist is probably not strong enough to break them with a T handle. With a ratchet handle.. yes.
 
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kythri

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tjmonsen5 said:
While it may be true that Ball ends are not as strong... your wrist is probably not strong enough to break them with a T handle. With a ratchet handle.. yes.
Click to expand...

I'm not worried about breaking the ball end, I'm worring about rounding out the fastener.

I've got a set of ball-end Craftsman L wrenches, and a set of non-ball-end Husky T-handle wrenches.

Both have served me pretty well.

I will agree with the other poster, though - ratchet and hex socket when at all possible.
 
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kruegdr

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Got the Wiha ball end T-handles from McMaster for use here at work. Outstanding stuff.
 
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kv501

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tjmonsen5 said:
While it may be true that Ball ends are not as strong... your wrist is probably not strong enough to break them with a T handle. With a ratchet handle.. yes.
Click to expand...

When I tighten something I like to think that I can estimate torque at least well enough to know when to stop. Sure, there's more leverage, but.............don't turn it as hard. Save your hands and use that ratchet and bit set that you made half a mortgage payment on! :beer:
 
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rlitman

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tjmonsen5 said:
While it may be true that Ball ends are not as strong... your wrist is probably not strong enough to break them with a T handle. With a ratchet handle.. yes.
Click to expand...

It happens. I broke the ball end off a Bondhus L key a while back.
Anyway, yes, rounding the fastener is the more likely scenario.
 
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WR250F

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kippieland said:
Do you use them on your bike? I am making an assumption by your name. The area where I was thinking the ball-end would be helpful is when I am trying to loosen the airbox behind the carb (full injection). My YZ frame interfers just enough where I can't get a super straight shot. Just curious
Click to expand...

In situations like that I remove the sub frame. I've been into a rear boot without doing so and changed pilots/leak jets. While this is doable, it is as much a PITA as removing the sub frame and having proper clearance. I take great care to not trash or break a fastener and working in a really tight space just increases the possibility of doing that.

kv501 said:
I'm sure I'm in the minority here, but if it comes down to using T-handles I go straight for a ratchet with an extension and hex socket.
Click to expand...

This :beer:

kythri said:
I'm not worried about breaking the ball end, I'm worring about rounding out the fastener.

I've got a set of ball-end Craftsman L wrenches, and a set of non-ball-end Husky T-handle wrenches.

Both have served me pretty well.

I will agree with the other poster, though - ratchet and hex socket when at all possible.
Click to expand...

Me too. Especially since getting to a fastener is sometimes a PITA. Having to extract or remove a trashed fastener is something I avoid where I can.

I use the t-handles for convenience like removing plastics, seat, oil filter cover, handle bar controls etc.. anything easily accessible.

Otherwise I grab a ratchet and remove what I need to remove to allow the best access.

Additional fasteners aren't usually easy to find, and replacing them with OEM costs a small fortune.
 
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kippieland

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WR250F said:
In situations like that I remove the sub frame. I've been into a rear boot without doing so and changed pilots/leak jets. While this is doable, it is as much a PITA as removing the sub frame and having proper clearance. I take great care to not trash or break a fastener and working in a really tight space just increases the possibility of doing that.



This :beer:



Me too. Especially since getting to a fastener is sometimes a PITA. Having to extract or remove a trashed fastener is something I avoid where I can.

I use the t-handles for convenience like removing plastics, seat, oil filter cover, handle bar controls etc.. anything easily accessible.

Otherwise I grab a ratchet and remove what I need to remove to allow the best access.

Additional fasteners aren't usually easy to find, and replacing them with OEM costs a small fortune.
Click to expand...

I agree with you both. I have all the ratcheted type hex drivers but I was looking for something for the easy parts. I definitely use the ratchet if I need to get down on it.

WR250f: I totally agree with you about removing the Subframe for jetting...much easier to get and with these Aluminum frames..they are PITA! But the situation I described, to get the Subframe off you have to loosen the airboot (which is fairly tight with frame in the way.) I was wondering if a ball-type would help out that much or not? I am not sure what year you have, but mine has a allen instead of a screw like it use to be.

Thanks everyone. It sounds like its easier to get both and see which will work for the given situations...I like buying new tools!
 
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TreePointer

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The T-handles really shine over L-wrenches when attempting to remove tough bolts/screws. It's easier to get more torque on the bolt head without leaning off the screw axis. This comes in handy with small engine cylinder bolts that have thread locker on them.

And you can't use an extension + socket because they won't fit the narrow diameter through the cylinder to get to the cylinder bolts.

The Wiha hex and torx I've been using have served me well so far.
 
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WR250F

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kippieland said:
I agree with you both. I have all the ratcheted type hex drivers but I was looking for something for the easy parts. I definitely use the ratchet if I need to get down on it.

WR250f: I totally agree with you about removing the Subframe for jetting...much easier to get and with these Aluminum frames..they are PITA! But the situation I described, to get the Subframe off you have to loosen the airboot (which is fairly tight with frame in the way.) I was wondering if a ball-type would help out that much or not? I am not sure what year you have, but mine has a allen instead of a screw like it use to be.

Thanks everyone. It sounds like its easier to get both and see which will work for the given situations...I like buying new tools!
Click to expand...

Oh, I know the exact fastener you are referring to EFI 2012 model. I have used a flexible drill shaft 1/4 drive with a bit to get to those. The first thing I did both times was replace the fastener with a std head and rotate the clamp as much as possible to turn it up so I could get to it under the seat. Yes, I drilled the air box for pass thru access ;)

If using an allen wrench, you're almost going to have to use a ball end due to proximity of the frame.

I run a 2011 WRF and a 2006 steel frame WRF, (as you know) both carb'd. I figured I would wait to go EFI when mapping on the fly becomes an option.
 
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Sage55

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I like Wiha as well, in fact I considered getting them but went with the Bondhus set instead.
 
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kippieland

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WR250F said:
Oh, I know the exact fastener you are referring to EFI 2012 model. I have used a flexible drill shaft 1/4 drive with a bit to get to those. The first thing I did both times was replace the fastener with a std head and rotate the clamp as much as possible to turn it up so I could get to it under the seat. Yes, I drilled the air box for pass thru access ;)

If using an allen wrench, you're almost going to have to use a ball end due to proximity of the frame.

I run a 2011 WRF and a 2006 steel frame WRF, (as you know) both carb'd. I figured I would wait to go EFI when mapping on the fly becomes an option.
Click to expand...

Thanks! That's exactly what I was needing. I still think I will probabley get both. Mapping on the fly would be sweet...I guess Suzuki is almost that...the 12 comes with three color coded plugs for three different mappings. But it would be nice if they could make it with a push button...but you know what that would do the price.:(
 
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racer1735

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+1 for Motion Pro. Have had a set of metric t-handles for years now. Will admit that my first impulse is to grab a socket wrench and hex socket, but for plastics and things that don't need torqued down, a t-handle is nice and convenient. Motion Pro are heavy duty and not all that expensive. Easy to find at most bike shops, too (or online).
 
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wxm

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Perfect timing. I have just finished building a rack for my T-handle sets:

DSCN7280.JPG


DSCN7281.JPG



DSCN7323.JPG
 
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kippieland

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