T1-11 or ????

[kendogg]

I'm prepping to build a shed soon, and was in Home Depot today doing some price shopping and building a small spreadsheet so I can budget this build. I see T1-11 siding is $33.91/sheet at my local HD. I saw some similar looking stuff that looked to be made of some kind of composite for about $10 cheaper per sheet. Since I'm going to be using about 10 sheets, a $100 savings would be nice, but....IDK much about it. It was labeled siding, but I forget to get a product name for it. It was on the rack right next to the T1-11. Looking at the abckside of it, I couldn't tell if it was some kind of particleboard-type composite, or some sort of poly. Anybody know anything about these??

It might have been one of these 2 products:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-96-in-Composite-Panel-Siding-29055/202190402

http://www.homedepot.com/p/SmartSide-96-in-Composite-Panel-27874/100055901

 

[pattenp]

That stuff is fine for a shed. It's kinda like Masonite siding. Just paint the **** ends and edges before installing to prevent moisture from wicking into the ends and edges.

 

[Mike in Ohio]

My humble opinion, the composite is good, it is pretty well weatherproof.

The real stuff is 5/8 thick I think, and actual plywood, also good but you must keep up on the paint or stain.

The other option is a cheaper version that is osb based (flakeboard) and has a wood grained veneer. This is usually thinner and you really have to keep up on the paint/stain. I don't like to use osb anywhere that moisture can get near it.

Again just my opinion! Good luck with you build.

 

[kendogg]

That stuff is fine for a shed. It's kinda like Masonite siding. Just paint the **** ends and edges before installing to prevent moisture from wicking into the ends and edges.

My humble opinion, the composite is good, it is pretty well weatherproof.

The real stuff is 5/8 thick I think, and actual plywood, also good but you must keep up on the paint or stain.

The other option is a cheaper version that is osb based (flakeboard) and has a wood grained veneer. This is usually thinner and you really have to keep up on the paint/stain. I don't like to use osb anywhere that moisture can get near it.

Again just my opinion! Good luck with you build.

Thanks guys! Ya, I can see OSB being pretty bad for shed siding. Thats why I was hesitant on this stuff and wanting more info. Thanks a bunch, the savings will easily pay for some paint!!

 

[geologist]

The real stuff holds up well. I'm currently building a shed, and thought about using the stuff from Lowes, but noticed some of the faces delaminating. Your mileage may vary.

 

[p_mori7]

You could also look into rough sawn lumber from a local sawmill...that's what I finished my garage with.

Link is in my sig below if you wanna see the pics.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Have you considered spend a few bucks more than the T1-11 and going with a cheaper vinyl siding to match your house ? Use some regular 7/16" to sheath the exterior and some cheaper in stock siding. You won't need to worry about painting it either.

 

[Thumper68]

I believe the cheaper stuff you mentioned is "Smart Siding" And if that is the brand I can highly recommend it, I have used 100's of sheets of it and it will out last traditional T1-11 by a long shot. It has a factory applied primer, ie.. it is a baked on finish that will out last anything that you can apply in the field. Just prime any exposed edges and make sure to use a nail gun to attach it.

 

[glider]

The Smart side is the product I use. Pre primed non rot material.

 

[kendogg]

Have you considered spend a few bucks more than the T1-11 and going with a cheaper vinyl siding to match your house ? Use some regular 7/16" to sheath the exterior and some cheaper in stock siding. You won't need to worry about painting it either.

My home is a mixture of wood/hardiplank siding. I just bought the home about a year ago. Some of the siding is in poor shape, and I haven't quite figured out what to do about it yet. I'd love to do vinyl on the whole house, but I'm not sure I can afford it, everything I've found (haven't spoken to anybody personally who's had vinyl installed anything recently) has shown like $15k to re-side the house, which seems a bit extreme. It appears that it was originally all wood, but has been spot-repaired with hardiplank, and painted to match. You can't tell which is which unless you're up close. The hardiplank is in great shape, and I may do the same, fix any neglected pieces and repaint. This home was a HUD foreclosure at a great price that needed some work, and in 4-5 years is going to be turned into a rental property, so I do have to keep cost/value in mind. What I'd give to rip out this kitchen and start over, but.....it's a great kitchen for a rental house, damn electric stove and all

I believe the cheaper stuff you mentioned is "Smart Siding" And if that is the brand I can highly recommend it, I have used 100's of sheets of it and it will out last traditional T1-11 by a long shot. It has a factory applied primer, ie.. it is a baked on finish that will out last anything that you can apply in the field. Just prime any exposed edges and make sure to use a nail gun to attach it.

The Smart side is the product I use. Pre primed non rot material.

Thanks guys. I think this solidifies it then, I'm going to go this route. I'll prime any edges before it goes on. You recommend nails over screws? It seems fairly thin, how about 1.25" staples?

 

[NUTTSGT]

My home is a mixture of wood/hardiplank siding. I just bought the home about a year ago. Some of the siding is in poor shape, and I haven't quite figured out what to do about it yet. I'd love to do vinyl on the whole house, but I'm not sure I can afford it, everything I've found (haven't spoken to anybody personally who's had vinyl installed anything recently) has shown like $15k to re-side the house, which seems a bit extreme. It appears that it was originally all wood, but has been spot-repaired with hardiplank, and painted to match. You can't tell which is which unless you're up close. The hardiplank is in great shape, and I may do the same, fix any neglected pieces and repaint. This home was a HUD foreclosure at a great price that needed some work, and in 4-5 years is going to be turned into a rental property, so I do have to keep cost/value in mind. What I'd give to rip out this kitchen and start over, but.....it's a great kitchen for a rental house, damn electric stove and all

It might cost you $15K to have some one side your house but it would be way, way cheaper if you did it yourself. If you can build a shed, swing a hammer, read a level, use some snips and do some basic angles, you can do siding.

Think of it this way, if you do plan on siding your own house and aren't afraid of heights (if you have a 2 story home) siding your shed is the perfect place to learn how to do it.

One thing you may want to do is put a general location in your profile, it'll help the other members give you advice for your area.

 

[kendogg]

It might cost you $15K to have some one side your house but it would be way, way cheaper if you did it yourself. If you can build a shed, swing a hammer, read a level, use some snips and do some basic angles, you can do siding.

Think of it this way, if you do plan on siding your own house and aren't afraid of heights (if you have a 2 story home) siding your shed is the perfect place to learn how to do it.

One thing you may want to do is put a general location in your profile, it'll help the other members give you advice for your area.

I hadn't even noticed that, sorry!! Fixed now And while that does sound like a novel idea, I am scared to absolute death of heights. I outright refuse to go onto my roof. And my yard is sloped away from the house, so I'm not sure I could use a manlift to do the job either.

 

[RedBKM]

I used the Hardi brand fiber cement panels. The panels are primed and have held paint great. They also make trim boards etc. The 4x8 panels are around $30 each.

My only complaint is the stuff is very brittle compared to T111. If you bend it far enough it will crack. It also requires a special circular saw blade to cut properly.

 

[where2]

I live in the land of rain and humidity, and I wouldn't waste my time with T-111. I've resided the garage in Hardie, and resided the entire second floor in Hardie (after ripping off what Aluminum siding Hurricane Frances didn't rip off herself, and ripping off the rotten T-111 that was under the aluminum siding). Once you get prepped to hang it, Hardie lap goes up quick.

 

[theoldwizard1]

The real stuff holds up well. I'm currently building a shed, and thought about using the stuff from Lowes, but noticed some of the faces delaminating. Your mileage may vary.

What kills T1-11 is moisture. Wicking up from the ground if it is located too close, from grass/shrubbery and worst of all, snow piled up against it. Vertical seems need "Z" flashing.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I hadn't even noticed that, sorry!! Fixed now And while that does sound like a novel idea, I am scared to absolute death of heights. I outright refuse to go onto my roof. And my yard is sloped away from the house, so I'm not sure I could use a manlift to do the job either.

Then it might be a smart idea to let somebody else do it then. . . . unless you want to overcome your fear.

 

[GreenNV]

I just built a 8 x 12 shed to keep some of the non-essentials out to the garage.

I used SmartSide 48-in x 96-in Structural 1 Aspen Treated Wood Siding that was purchased from Lowes. It is pre-primed, has a 50 year lifespan, and a textured face with 8-inch grooves to resemble planks. It is strong, lightweight, and much cheaper than T1-11. I also used the non-grooved sheets to rip the trim boards.

I was very satisfied with the product.

 

[glider]

Thanks guys. I think this solidifies it then, I'm going to go this route. I'll prime any edges before it goes on. You recommend nails over screws? It seems fairly thin, how about 1.25" staples?[/QUOTE]

I use a Galvanized ring shank nail. Do not set them too deep.

 

[kendogg]

Thanks guys. I think this solidifies it then, I'm going to go this route. I'll prime any edges before it goes on. You recommend nails over screws? It seems fairly thin, how about 1.25" staples?

I use a Galvanized ring shank nail. Do not set them too deep.[/QUOTE]


I was just thinking, since it's only 3/8" thick, I have an air staple gun/brad nailer that would work great for this.

 

[GreenNV]

Since the sheets are 4’ x 8’, you are fastening into the studs. The gables fasten to the trusses. I used Grip-Rite Countersinking-Head Polymer-Coated Star-Drive Deck Screws except for the plywood flooring; 2 ½” & 3” screws.

This was my first shed so I make some mistakes. The screws are easy to remove and reuse. They cost more but hold stronger, can straighten warpage, and are more forgiving.

 

[kendogg]

Well, it's settled then on that too. I'm going to use staples. It's faster, easier, and I already own them. And if it's a concern - I can just use more of them. My gun will fire these staples fully seated into sheets of MDF, so this should be no big deal at all.

 

[BillK]

KD,
I am getting ready to replace some of the T-111 on my detached garage and have decided to use the Smart Side. Their web site has all of the installation instructions. They make it in a thicker version but I am having a problem finding anyone that carries it You have to use the thicker version on any larger structure that requires a shear wall rating. You can use the thinner stuff but you have to double nail it for the shear rating.

The T-111 actually is pretty good stuff. My attached garage on the house has it on part of it and it has only been painted once since the house was built in 1978. It is due for paint again but otherwise is holding up great. The part on my detached garage that I am having to replace is my own fault. When we built the garage we did not have enough overhang and the rain would splash up on to the siding an pretty much ruined the lower 2 ft. I have addressed the overhang situation so it should not be a problem again. If I cant find the thicker Smart Side, I may just use T-111 again.

 

[kendogg]

Hey guys, just giving an update. Just bought some lumber on Sunday, and I ended up going with the siding linked below. For the price, I decided it couldn't be beat. It's a shed, it's not a garage or anything special, just a place to store my lawn tractor and other **** to get it out of my garage. I plan to coat a ~6" wide edge on the backside with Kilz, and coat and scraped spots on the edges. Install, and paint over in white barn paint. Should be good enough. I'll post some pictures once I get started. I'm hoping to st least start a little bit on Sunday.


http://www.lowes.com/pd_15601-132-2...L=?Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&facetInfo=

 

[coljar]

I used the Smart side on some of the interior of my garage and it looks and worked great.