This is for my house, and also garage. I am looking to put siding on and looking for a budget siding. I know T1 11 is certainly the cheap option, but Im worried about the maintenance and rotting. What I like most is that not only is it cheap, but easy to install. Im wondering what other siding options would be cheap and easy to install, but have a better look and easier maintenance than T1 11?
T1 11 siding vs something else
- Thread starter johnny43
- Start date
The Tool Tyrant
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Wow...so many options and wide range of cost. In my 32 years (past life) as a carpenter/ framing contractor, I've installed a wide range of WOOD siding and I know as far as aesthetics, it's a personal thing. With any wood product, you'll never get away from some type on maintenance, but there are things you can do to minimize it...keep it up and away from water splash / sprinklers by using a brick or stucco wainscot with siding above it.
There is much less waste with lineal (1X6X 16' for example) vs 4'X8' sheets, especially if you have many openings (doors. windows).
Siding is pretty, but it comes with a cost. Weight your options.
There is much less waste with lineal (1X6X 16' for example) vs 4'X8' sheets, especially if you have many openings (doors. windows).
Siding is pretty, but it comes with a cost. Weight your options.
The Tool Tyrant
ALLIANCE MEMBER
NO, T-111 is designed to be installed vertically. What you have pictured is 5/4 (pronounced five-quarter) beveled siding (by appearance, I'd guess Western Red Cedar) which is designed to be installed horizontally.
https://www.amerhart.com/product/western-red-cedar-rabbeted-bevel-siding-5-4-x-8-random
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bob15
Well-known member
No with T1-11. What you are looking at is lap siding. Maybe this website will help you: https://sidingauthority.com/wood-siding/
For you reference, below picture is vertical T&G.....6" x 12'L boards
For you reference, below picture is vertical T&G.....6" x 12'L boards
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theoldwizard1
Well-known member
Hard to beat the price but if installed in the "wrong place" it will rot QUICK ! (see Tyrant's comments).
Cheap insurance. Buy a hand pump garden sprayer or a handheld airless sprayer. Mix boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits thin enough that it will spray (50/50 ?). Spray the BACK, at least 2 coats. Wait until the first coat is just tacky before the second coat. Then spray the front, 2 coats ! It will take 24-48 hours to dry. If you make any cuts, make sure to recoat. Also, where one sheet "stacks" about another, make sure to use "Z" flashing.
Another tip. Install a "belly band". 1x6 bottom trim that the T1-11 sits on. Again, Z-flashing between the bottom of the T-11 and the trim. You can use plain 1x6, but I would prime BOTH SIDE with an oil based primer. You can use PT, but you will have to wait a year before you can paint it. The best ($$$) is PVC rim.
If you are going to paint it wait at least a month for the linseed oil to "cure". If you are going to stain, use an oil based stain. Skip the last coat of plain linseed oil, but mix about 1 qt/gallon into the stain. It might be too thick for an airless sprayer so thin it down, but you will have to do 2 coats.
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matt_i
Well-known member
With this information, vinyl siding is easy to DIY, with a few critical details to master. Then long period of maintenance-free.
There are a couple of pricepoints on thickness, after that there are more exotic patterns up to a shake-shingle look.
Personally Id choose a common color where you can easily match with trim coil to finish up any parts that don't come in vinyl.
The Tool Tyrant
ALLIANCE MEMBER
First off, 3' to 6' ?? that would be an awful lot of end joints!
Second, smooth finish doesn't hold stain/ paint as well as rough finish.
For any exterior application, I would pass for sure.
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bob15
Well-known member
For exterior use, no. Too many joints. I want to side something with as few joints (potential leaks) as possible.
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roc_on_the_rocks
Well-known member
My house (1969) has something like a T1-11 siding... and my two words for you are, specially considering you're in Oregon: run away
toolchaser
Well-known member
One option would be the 4`x9` Hardie type t1-11 it's around $50 per sheet pre-covid-price hike
jerry67
Well-known member
My house has T1-11 siding and also the garage that has been there 40 years, the house is 1 story, the siding on the house is about 1 foot off the ground all around, in the back of the house the siding is getting bad at the bottom from splash but the front is still good after 40 years because its under a 5 foot roof over hang, the garage is two story block and brick with the T1-11 up high on the gable walls and also under a roof overhang and still in good shape for 40 years old, so I would say, if protected T1-11 can survive a long time dependent on its exposure to the weather.
nadogail
Well-known member
I am a fan of Hardee Plank, they lend themselves to DIY, if you invest in the special Saw Blade and Gecco Clamps.
sberry
Banned
They aint as cheap and easy to install.
OP is in the PNW, which means fire risk -- and a lot more fire risk in the future.
Hardee board is not going to be as pretty as wood either, but it is pretty fire resistant.
If I was him, I follow Calif. codes as why they were dealing with is what Oregon is now dealing with...
Hardee board is not going to be as pretty as wood either, but it is pretty fire resistant.
If I was him, I follow Calif. codes as why they were dealing with is what Oregon is now dealing with...
Dumber than lumber
Well-known member
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That Hardie product is awesome. A little bit more work to install than the T1-11 product. If long term results are important you will want to use flashing, and a high quality caulk.
Just my opinion.
T1-11 works for my situations. (5/8" thick, all plywood - no MDF top layer).
On the house, it starts a good 2' off the ground. I'm in the process of stripping off old lap siding, cladding in 1.5" rigid foam, and T1-11 over top.
When I use on sheds/outbuildings, its instead of sheathing, and gives a finished look that matches the house. It also has a very similar look to steel siding from 20-30' away. (Shop has steel.) If any of it begins to deteriorate... I can go over it with steel later.
On the house, it starts a good 2' off the ground. I'm in the process of stripping off old lap siding, cladding in 1.5" rigid foam, and T1-11 over top.
When I use on sheds/outbuildings, its instead of sheathing, and gives a finished look that matches the house. It also has a very similar look to steel siding from 20-30' away. (Shop has steel.) If any of it begins to deteriorate... I can go over it with steel later.
OP has been banned for spamming the site and starting a second account. The second account was starting threads asking about T111 also with near identical user profiles.
johnny43
Ronnyboy43
The thread will remain open for future reference of T111 information. However, Spamming OP's links have been removed, including in quotes.
johnny43
Ronnyboy43
The thread will remain open for future reference of T111 information. However, Spamming OP's links have been removed, including in quotes.
CraigStu
Well-known member
Thank you. I was wondering why it seemed people were reacting to things I wasn't seeing. Glad you figured it out. I have to wonder why someone would do that.
36truck
Well-known member
I was just looking into T1 11 for a shed I'm going to build in AZ. The belly band sounds like a good idea to keep the T1 11 up higher from the ground. The boiled linseed oilis also a good idea.
It was hard to tell by the linked site but I'm guessing it was a small business. Something like you would see on CL.