Motofixxer
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 10, 2009
- Messages
- 681
Back story I bought a used IR compressor a few years ago. For a couple months it's made a bit of a hiss when running. Finally checked it...head gasket. Try to find parts...not real easy averaging $50 for the head gasket then all the other gaskets needed, it's old...ugh. So after a lot of research and brainstorming. I decided to swap a different pump. Good reviews on the Harbor Freight. So here's all the info and process for specifically this IR but applies to installing the pump on any other tank. Sorry if this has too much technical info...there's not much that comes up in searches for these. I ended up learning a lot about pulleys, vbelts/sizing and technical info on this unit so kinda compiling it here in case anyone else needs it.
IR model T21560V1 5hp 240v 22a 175psi pump speed 1125 RPM's 14cfm@175 from the early 90's
Motor pulley 4.7, Belt A61(original, now using a Dayco A59)
Motor 5hp 240v 3450rpm 22A, Part 8-182685-01, Type- CP, Form KHH, Time- CONT, Code G, Serial BL4-022
Motor pulley 4.7” TaperLock 1 groove 7/8" bore “A” or “4L” v-belt pulley, Belt A61(original, now using a Dayco AP59)
Pump Head Gasket-- 32257263 Original # is 97508337
Make your own gasket using a material such as Klinger Ferrofex SP/AF-II
aircompressorservices.com
As a replacement I chose the $180 HF but there's some 5Hp V-twin pumps available on Ebay/Amazon that claim 21cfm for about $300
5HP 145psi V style #60754, 67698 Harbor Freight
Pump is manufactured by Nuair a division of an Italian pneumatics company also includes FINI in the US. Rumors of parts sheets available if you can find em. It's a common pump.
HF pump outlet is reported 3/4" JISX 30deg hydraulic flare, but 3/4" NPT seemed to fit right on but both pump heads is 3/4" NPT
1.5qt of SAE 30 non detergent oil, Belt is A style V-belt
Turns Counter Clockwise pg 7 manual
NEEDS a REAL 5HP 240v motor of 22A to operate properly not the 5-7 Peak Hp they claim from a 15A motor. Which is really about a 3-3.7HP
Drain plug is 3/8" NPT, add a 3/8" x 5" pipe ****** with Blue Loctite works great with a cap to drain oil cleanly
Bolt pattern 5 1/4" by 10" center to center
Real Dimensions 15" High, 13" Deep and 18.5" Wide at filters
At 70deg ambient temp after 30min of break in run with open air no belt shroud, cylinder temps were 158deg
60 gal tank at 1min 50psi, 2:30 min 100psi, 4:10 145psi, 45sec cycle 115-145psi, 1:15 cycle 105-145psi
Parts 1-800-444-3453
13989 AIR FILTER ASSEMBLY 7 $14.39
13991 AIR FILTER ELEMENT 2 PK 9 $4.33
14002 CYLINDER GASKET 2 PK 18 $2.06
Good rule is change oil after 30min break in, then run for a couple more hours under normal operation and change oil again. Then refill to proper level. There's also hour meters available to record/indicate when to change oil.
Pulley-- Original has 1 belt, unknown if 2 are actually needed, I would guess no
4.5” pulley would be ideal for a 3450 Rpm motor and this 1050 Rpm pump
Pulley Sizing-- 14.5" this Pump pulley diameter x 1050 pump RPM = 15,225 then / motor RPM (commonly 3450) = motor pulley diameter in this case 4.4 or a common 4.5"pulley. So 14.5 x 1050 = 15,225 / 3450 = 4.4”
There's a pulley size and belt length calculator https://www.blocklayer.com/pulley-belteng The belt calculator also figured by input the length between pulley centers. Match the A V-belt actual belt length indicated NOT the A V-belt number.
For reference about 15" pulley to pulley center. I needed a Dayco AP59 V-belt for my Ingersoll Rand unit, which is 61.5" to get back to beginning or closest to pump of motor slot. Belts will only stretch
A58 or a 4L600 = 60" ½" wide V-belt
A59 or a 4L610 = 61" ½" wide V-belt
A60 or a 4L620 = 62" ½" wide V-belt
A61 or a 4L630 = 63" ½" Wide V-belt
Pulley Option 1 Standard V-belt pulley
On the 3450 Rpm motor the original 4.9” or so pulley should be spinning pump at 1175 Rpm or 125 over rating of pump
1A 4.75” pulley like the Tb Woods Ak4978 would spin it at 1130 Rpm or 80 Rpm over rating of pump
1B 4.45” pulley like the Tb Woods Ak4678 would spin it at 1055 Rpm or pretty close to the 1050 rating
Available from like Zoro Tools, or a 4.5” is 1070 Rpm
Pulley Option 2
Or there's a pulley closer to the original a single or double groove cast iron pulley/sheave with 7/8" bore and the “A” or “4L” style V-belt. It has a 2-piece pulley with multiple outside diameters and is designed to be used with an H style bushing or Taper lock sheave. 2 bolts squeeze bushing and pulley together on the shaft clamping it in place. To remove, remove bolts and place them in the 2 other holes to push 2 sections apart. Carefully remove without losing the key in shaft.
Available from like Compressor-Source
2A. Masterdrive 2AK46H/H-7/8 Cast Iron 4.5" 2 Groove Dual Belt A Section 4L Pulley With 7/8" Sheave Bushing
2B. Masterdrive 2AK49H/H-7/8 Cast Iron 4.75" Dual Groove Belt A Section 4L Pulley w/ 7/8" Sheave Bushing
Once you have pulley mounted and belt estimated with distance between pulley centers
Mounting-
Will probably have to custom drill holes etc. Pump uses 3/8” bolts about 1.5” with locknuts is a good idea. Need to line up pump pulley and motor pulley in a straight line and square to mounting plate. I used a piece of threaded rod laid in the grooves. Mark and drill holes, install bolts.
Then install belt(s) after pulley is on
Then the infamous output port. I found it to be threaded like ¾ NPT, older reports it's ¾ Jisx 30deg Japanese hydraulic flare. The included brass adapter threaded on perfectly to 3/4” NPT, I could thread a ¾ female NPT on it about ½ way with no resistance. The port is slightly coned similar to a flare. Others in past reviews welded an NPT fitting on, some used a ¾ FIP to 1/2” OD (flare) and used 1/2” copper from there etc. I used a ¾ Copper Water Heater hose 24”. I Removed the rubber washers, don't trust it at 160deg or higher. Then placed some pipe dope on the threads and little on the coned portion. The fitting will push against the copper like a flare fitting with copper being soft it sealed fine so far. Other end just regular pipe adapters to get to 1/2” NPT into the tank valve. Pump vibrates a fare bit so a firm solid connection is NOT ideal, NEED some flexibility. So a loop or coil etc is preferred.
Fill with 1.5Qt of SAE 30 non detergent oil $5/Qt currently vs “compressor oil” same thing but $10+ Qt. Some later switch to a synthetic, good idea to wait for a while before using it.
After pump is mounted and connected belt is on it's time to break in for 30min under no load then pressure switch adjustment time. Make sure a large line is open and let it go for 30min minimum. I chose to change the oil at that time.
Original was a 175psi 2 stage pump. So pressure switch needs to be adjusted lower. I found the smaller stud and nut needs to be loosened most of the way so maybe 1/4” of threads showing to lower setting. That's upper cut off and should be 145max. Then the larger nut/stud should be also loosened a bit to lower to turn on at maybe 110psi or set to your liking, I did 115. Tighten raises and loosening lowers.
You should have it all set up then. If you find you don't have enough capacity. Consider looking on FB Marketplace for 30-80gal tanks to add inline. Use a larger 3/4” or higher line to connect tanks. Make sure to have a valve at each tank to isolate it. I recently seen a $3k or so SpeedAire looked like new for $400, needed a pump. One can't buy a motor for that these days. I seen another 60gal being offered for free and many in the $75-100 range. I've had a 25gal for a while I picked up for $25. Was a Porter Cable compressor but it constantly tripped breakers since new. He didn't wanna haul it in for repair tried to check it finally gave up ripped the motor off it and used it as an aux tank. Didn't want it anymore too big to lug around. Thing looks new. .
IR model T21560V1 5hp 240v 22a 175psi pump speed 1125 RPM's 14cfm@175 from the early 90's
Motor pulley 4.7, Belt A61(original, now using a Dayco A59)
Motor 5hp 240v 3450rpm 22A, Part 8-182685-01, Type- CP, Form KHH, Time- CONT, Code G, Serial BL4-022
Motor pulley 4.7” TaperLock 1 groove 7/8" bore “A” or “4L” v-belt pulley, Belt A61(original, now using a Dayco AP59)
Pump Head Gasket-- 32257263 Original # is 97508337
Make your own gasket using a material such as Klinger Ferrofex SP/AF-II
Ingersoll Rand Gasket Replacement - 97508337
Air Compressor Services has the Ingersoll Rand Gasket Replacement - 97508337 and a wide variety of compressor parts specifically designed to help you keep your machinery moving. Order yours today!
aircompressorservices.com
As a replacement I chose the $180 HF but there's some 5Hp V-twin pumps available on Ebay/Amazon that claim 21cfm for about $300
5HP 145psi V style #60754, 67698 Harbor Freight
Pump is manufactured by Nuair a division of an Italian pneumatics company also includes FINI in the US. Rumors of parts sheets available if you can find em. It's a common pump.
HF pump outlet is reported 3/4" JISX 30deg hydraulic flare, but 3/4" NPT seemed to fit right on but both pump heads is 3/4" NPT
1.5qt of SAE 30 non detergent oil, Belt is A style V-belt
Turns Counter Clockwise pg 7 manual
NEEDS a REAL 5HP 240v motor of 22A to operate properly not the 5-7 Peak Hp they claim from a 15A motor. Which is really about a 3-3.7HP
Drain plug is 3/8" NPT, add a 3/8" x 5" pipe ****** with Blue Loctite works great with a cap to drain oil cleanly
Bolt pattern 5 1/4" by 10" center to center
Real Dimensions 15" High, 13" Deep and 18.5" Wide at filters
At 70deg ambient temp after 30min of break in run with open air no belt shroud, cylinder temps were 158deg
60 gal tank at 1min 50psi, 2:30 min 100psi, 4:10 145psi, 45sec cycle 115-145psi, 1:15 cycle 105-145psi
Parts 1-800-444-3453
13989 AIR FILTER ASSEMBLY 7 $14.39
13991 AIR FILTER ELEMENT 2 PK 9 $4.33
14002 CYLINDER GASKET 2 PK 18 $2.06
Good rule is change oil after 30min break in, then run for a couple more hours under normal operation and change oil again. Then refill to proper level. There's also hour meters available to record/indicate when to change oil.
Pulley-- Original has 1 belt, unknown if 2 are actually needed, I would guess no
4.5” pulley would be ideal for a 3450 Rpm motor and this 1050 Rpm pump
Pulley Sizing-- 14.5" this Pump pulley diameter x 1050 pump RPM = 15,225 then / motor RPM (commonly 3450) = motor pulley diameter in this case 4.4 or a common 4.5"pulley. So 14.5 x 1050 = 15,225 / 3450 = 4.4”
There's a pulley size and belt length calculator https://www.blocklayer.com/pulley-belteng The belt calculator also figured by input the length between pulley centers. Match the A V-belt actual belt length indicated NOT the A V-belt number.
For reference about 15" pulley to pulley center. I needed a Dayco AP59 V-belt for my Ingersoll Rand unit, which is 61.5" to get back to beginning or closest to pump of motor slot. Belts will only stretch
A58 or a 4L600 = 60" ½" wide V-belt
A59 or a 4L610 = 61" ½" wide V-belt
A60 or a 4L620 = 62" ½" wide V-belt
A61 or a 4L630 = 63" ½" Wide V-belt
Pulley Option 1 Standard V-belt pulley
On the 3450 Rpm motor the original 4.9” or so pulley should be spinning pump at 1175 Rpm or 125 over rating of pump
1A 4.75” pulley like the Tb Woods Ak4978 would spin it at 1130 Rpm or 80 Rpm over rating of pump
1B 4.45” pulley like the Tb Woods Ak4678 would spin it at 1055 Rpm or pretty close to the 1050 rating
Available from like Zoro Tools, or a 4.5” is 1070 Rpm
Pulley Option 2
Or there's a pulley closer to the original a single or double groove cast iron pulley/sheave with 7/8" bore and the “A” or “4L” style V-belt. It has a 2-piece pulley with multiple outside diameters and is designed to be used with an H style bushing or Taper lock sheave. 2 bolts squeeze bushing and pulley together on the shaft clamping it in place. To remove, remove bolts and place them in the 2 other holes to push 2 sections apart. Carefully remove without losing the key in shaft.
Available from like Compressor-Source
2A. Masterdrive 2AK46H/H-7/8 Cast Iron 4.5" 2 Groove Dual Belt A Section 4L Pulley With 7/8" Sheave Bushing
2B. Masterdrive 2AK49H/H-7/8 Cast Iron 4.75" Dual Groove Belt A Section 4L Pulley w/ 7/8" Sheave Bushing
Once you have pulley mounted and belt estimated with distance between pulley centers
Mounting-
Will probably have to custom drill holes etc. Pump uses 3/8” bolts about 1.5” with locknuts is a good idea. Need to line up pump pulley and motor pulley in a straight line and square to mounting plate. I used a piece of threaded rod laid in the grooves. Mark and drill holes, install bolts.
Then install belt(s) after pulley is on
Then the infamous output port. I found it to be threaded like ¾ NPT, older reports it's ¾ Jisx 30deg Japanese hydraulic flare. The included brass adapter threaded on perfectly to 3/4” NPT, I could thread a ¾ female NPT on it about ½ way with no resistance. The port is slightly coned similar to a flare. Others in past reviews welded an NPT fitting on, some used a ¾ FIP to 1/2” OD (flare) and used 1/2” copper from there etc. I used a ¾ Copper Water Heater hose 24”. I Removed the rubber washers, don't trust it at 160deg or higher. Then placed some pipe dope on the threads and little on the coned portion. The fitting will push against the copper like a flare fitting with copper being soft it sealed fine so far. Other end just regular pipe adapters to get to 1/2” NPT into the tank valve. Pump vibrates a fare bit so a firm solid connection is NOT ideal, NEED some flexibility. So a loop or coil etc is preferred.
Fill with 1.5Qt of SAE 30 non detergent oil $5/Qt currently vs “compressor oil” same thing but $10+ Qt. Some later switch to a synthetic, good idea to wait for a while before using it.
After pump is mounted and connected belt is on it's time to break in for 30min under no load then pressure switch adjustment time. Make sure a large line is open and let it go for 30min minimum. I chose to change the oil at that time.
Original was a 175psi 2 stage pump. So pressure switch needs to be adjusted lower. I found the smaller stud and nut needs to be loosened most of the way so maybe 1/4” of threads showing to lower setting. That's upper cut off and should be 145max. Then the larger nut/stud should be also loosened a bit to lower to turn on at maybe 110psi or set to your liking, I did 115. Tighten raises and loosening lowers.
You should have it all set up then. If you find you don't have enough capacity. Consider looking on FB Marketplace for 30-80gal tanks to add inline. Use a larger 3/4” or higher line to connect tanks. Make sure to have a valve at each tank to isolate it. I recently seen a $3k or so SpeedAire looked like new for $400, needed a pump. One can't buy a motor for that these days. I seen another 60gal being offered for free and many in the $75-100 range. I've had a 25gal for a while I picked up for $25. Was a Porter Cable compressor but it constantly tripped breakers since new. He didn't wanna haul it in for repair tried to check it finally gave up ripped the motor off it and used it as an aux tank. Didn't want it anymore too big to lug around. Thing looks new. .
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