T8 bulbs recommendation - high CRI & lumen

[bochnak]

Looking to buy all new tubes, need 24 total.

So far these top my list:

https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/56690/F-32L359.html#BVRRWidgetID

Specs:
Litetronics L-359 - F32T8CB50
32 Watt - T8 - 36,000 Hours - 3,200 Lumens - 5000K Full Spectrum - 900 Series Phosphors - CRI=90

It will be about $90 shipped, or $3.60ea.

I'm picking 5000k since it would work pretty good for my video camera (I do youtube videos on MC repair)

Any thoughts?

 

[Platonic Solid]

For video purposes, I would suggest digging deeper than CRI rating and obtain more detailed info looking for high R9 red value.

 

[bochnak]

For video purposes, I would suggest digging deeper than CRI rating and obtain more detailed info looking for high R9 red value.

I dug a little deeper (specs sheets) and they do not state anything regarding the R9 value.

I know that Kino Flo probably do as you describe, however not looking to spend $14/bulb.

I want to stay at about $3ea.

 

[Denwood]

Bulbs I can recommend (we have about 300 installed) are the Philips TL950. High CRI of 98 at 5000K and 2000 lumens. Cinevate's entire space uses them. We also use them occasionally under our photo light table. Most of our studio light comes from a couple of ProPhoto 800 HMIs and a collection of light shaping tools.

My shop uses them as well as I do some automotive paint work there.

 

[bochnak]

Why bother asking then. You've already made up your mind to cheap out.

Let me clarify my situation.

I did cheap out the first time and bought buyers choice bulbs - 4100k - 58CRI - 2500 lumens. They just look weird.

Since I will be hanging 3 more fixtures, I need 10 more bulbs. Might as replace the total of 24 that I will have.

I mentioned video, however is not the primary reason for the bulb change. Just looking for something better, and not 14 per bulb.

Here is a look at how my most current video looks. I do have a light on the tripod:

 

[bochnak]

Bulbs I can recommend (we have about 300 installed) are the Philips TL950. High CRI of 98 at 5000K and 2000 lumens. Cinevate's entire space uses them. We also use them occasionally under our photo light table. Most of our studio light comes from a couple of ProPhoto 800 HMIs and a collection of light shaping tools.

My shop uses them as well as I do some automotive paint work there.

Thanks for the reply.

I picked up 2 bulbs just to see if I will like the 5000k. The bulbs are sylvania octron, 90 cri, ~2000 lumens or so. I did not like them. The light was too blue, and did not feel too bright. The photo below shows the buyers choice 4100k, 58cri, 2500l on the left and the sylvania on the right.

 

[pablo94sc]

Not enough light to use the 5000k bulbs. You need to determine the total light you plan to have in your space in lumens and convert it to lux. Take the lux you expect and compare it to the Kruithof curve. That will give you a range of color temperature to use for best results.

Edit - My garage is around 580sqft. I have six 2-lamp T8 fixtures. The greatest possible lumens I can have is 2900 lumens x 12 lamps (bulbs), or 34800 lumens. Convert that and I have 645.8346 lux. Another option is to multiply lamp lumens by total lamps and divide by sqft to get foot candles. LLxTL/SQFT = FC Then you can use this link to find lux.

http://www.rapidtables.com/calc/light/fc-to-lux-calculator.htm

Based on the Kruithof Curve I need lamps in the 4100K range to keep them from looking yellow or blue. The problem is fluorescent tubes are omni-directional so the thing to remember is that max lumens is nowhere near what you'll actually get on the ground. I like to cut whatever the bulbs nominal lumen rating is by at least 30% or more depending on your fixture type.

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipe...of_curve_2.svg/978px-Kruithof_curve_2.svg.png

Using 35% I'm down to 39FC, or 419.792 lux. Based on that, 3500K lamps are the way to go for a pleasing, clean white look. 4100K will tend to have a blue shift and 3000K a yellow (jaundice looking) shift. If I use lower wattage bulbs with 2400 nominal lumens, I could almost drop to 3000K lamps for a more relaxing, warm feel which I prefer for working at night without the light looking yellow.

All said, it depends on how many foot candles you want or need. Link below is for recommended levels, but 20-30FC is good for puttering around in the garage with additional task lighting available.

http://www.bristolite.com/Interfaces/media/Footcandle Recommendations by IES.pdf

Note: I like 800 series Osram Sylvania and Phillips lamps, but am going to try TCP since they are cheap.

 

[cybrdyke]

2875 lumens, 4100k:http://www.homedepot.com/p/Philips-4-ft-T8-32-Watt-Cool-White-4100K-Alto-Linear-Fluorescent-Light-Bulb-30-Pack-434530/205477883

 

[Platonic Solid]

Not enough light to use the 5000k bulbs. You need to determine the total light you plan to have in your space in lumens and convert it to lux. Take the lux you expect and compare it to the Kruithof curve. That will give you a range of color temperature to use for best results.

Edit - My garage is around 580sqft. I have six 2-lamp T8 fixtures. The greatest possible lumens I can have is 2900 lumens x 12 lamps (bulbs), or 34800 lumens. Convert that and I have 645.8346 lux. Another option is to multiply lamp lumens by total lamps and divide by sqft to get foot candles. LLxTL/SQFT = FC Then you can use this link to find lux.

http://www.rapidtables.com/calc/light/fc-to-lux-calculator.htm

Based on the Kruithof Curve I need lamps in the 4100K range to keep them from looking yellow or blue. The problem is fluorescent tubes are omni-directional so the thing to remember is that max lumens is nowhere near what you'll actually get on the ground. I like to cut whatever the bulbs nominal lumen rating is by at least 30% or more depending on your fixture type.

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipe...of_curve_2.svg/978px-Kruithof_curve_2.svg.png

Using 35% I'm down to 39FC, or 419.792 lux. Based on that, 3500K lamps are the way to go for a pleasing, clean white look. 4100K will tend to have a blue shift and 3000K a yellow (jaundice looking) shift. If I use lower wattage bulbs with 2400 nominal lumens, I could almost drop to 3000K lamps for a more relaxing, warm feel which I prefer for working at night without the light looking yellow.

All said, it depends on how many foot candles you want or need. Link below is for recommended levels, but 20-30FC is good for puttering around in the garage with additional task lighting available.

http://www.bristolite.com/Interfaces/media/Footcandle Recommendations by IES.pdf

Note: I like 800 series Osram Sylvania and Phillips lamps, but am going to try TCP since they are cheap.

Excellent Post

 

[bochnak]

Not enough light to use the 5000k bulbs. You need to determine the total light you plan to have in your space in lumens and convert it to lux. Take the lux you expect and compare it to the Kruithof curve. That will give you a range of color temperature to use for best results.

Edit - My garage is around 580sqft. I have six 2-lamp T8 fixtures. The greatest possible lumens I can have is 2900 lumens x 12 lamps (bulbs), or 34800 lumens. Convert that and I have 645.8346 lux. Another option is to multiply lamp lumens by total lamps and divide by sqft to get foot candles. LLxTL/SQFT = FC Then you can use this link to find lux.

http://www.rapidtables.com/calc/light/fc-to-lux-calculator.htm

Based on the Kruithof Curve I need lamps in the 4100K range to keep them from looking yellow or blue. The problem is fluorescent tubes are omni-directional so the thing to remember is that max lumens is nowhere near what you'll actually get on the ground. I like to cut whatever the bulbs nominal lumen rating is by at least 30% or more depending on your fixture type.

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipe...of_curve_2.svg/978px-Kruithof_curve_2.svg.png

Using 35% I'm down to 39FC, or 419.792 lux. Based on that, 3500K lamps are the way to go for a pleasing, clean white look. 4100K will tend to have a blue shift and 3000K a yellow (jaundice looking) shift. If I use lower wattage bulbs with 2400 nominal lumens, I could almost drop to 3000K lamps for a more relaxing, warm feel which I prefer for working at night without the light looking yellow.

All said, it depends on how many foot candles you want or need. Link below is for recommended levels, but 20-30FC is good for puttering around in the garage with additional task lighting available.

http://www.bristolite.com/Interfaces/media/Footcandle Recommendations by IES.pdf

Note: I like 800 series Osram Sylvania and Phillips lamps, but am going to try TCP since they are cheap.

Thanks for all that info. Given all that, I'm at about 1100 lux (I factored 30% loss).

I hung another row of 3 fixtures, and used the 3500k bulbs that they came with. I almost prefer the lighting under the 3500k versus the 4100k.

 

[pablo94sc]

Thanks for all that info. Given all that, I'm at about 1100 lux (I factored 30% loss).

I hung another row of 3 fixtures, and used the 3500k bulbs that they came with. I almost prefer the lighting under the 3500k versus the 4100k.

Glad the included lamps are working for you! 1100 lux is right on the warmer end of 3500K which is probably why you prefer it - especially if you're working at night.

Most smartphones can download an app that uses either the camera or light meter on the phone to report lux, FC, lumens, etc. This may help you pinpoint any places you need additional task lighting. You'd be surprised how much illumination drops off moving a few feet down and away from a lamp. That's why even though my work areas have fixture overhead and are in the 50+ FC range, I'm still contemplating adding some small halogen or xenon track lighting so I can have some moveable 100CRI spotlights for really detailed work (like electronics repair). Just something you may want to consider.