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T8 v/s t12

Charliekilo

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Jan 16, 2012
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91
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Ca
I was given several 4ft fixtures from a tear down along with quite a bunch of tubes both T8 & T12s. All fixtures are 3 bulb. Some have T12s some have T8s and some are a mixture. the T8s all appear to be 32 watts and theT12s 40 watts.
Will the12s & 8s have equal light out put ? What should I do to maximize the light per unit. I do realize that bulb color will make a perceived difference . All the bulbs I have seem the same.They also have plastic dimpled light defusers in the fixtures. Good or bad?
Any education will be appreciated
 
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bareass172

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Aug 5, 2012
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N'awlins
I don't know how much this will help you in your process, but I can tell you that in my last garage I installed eight 4' double T12 fixtures to light overhead and two 4' single T12's as task lighting over my bench. In my new garage (similar size to my last one) I installed six 4' double T8 fixtures but I sprung the extra cash for the brighter bulbs and it made ALL the difference. I just checked the box and I installed 2800 lumen bulbs with 6500K color temperature. There may be better available now (I installed these 4 years ago) but I've been very pleased with them. All in all I installed 2 less fixtures but feel the difference in bulb quality makes the space seem brighter.

My fixtures also have the light diffusers and, in my space, I feel it helps prevent sections where the light is too bright or harsh.

Hope that helps!
 

transam77

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Joined
Jan 12, 2014
Messages
1
Location
TX
If you are doing refinish work on cars you will want a full spectrum light. Pick one with a CRI of 90 +. 600K in color. Look at the specs for paint booths, this will be the best light for detail work. I used these T8 lamps while sanding and buffing clear coat on a new paint job. It made all the difference in the world.
 

ADSR

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Jan 12, 2013
Messages
10,713
T12's are pretty cheap if you're on a budget. I'm going through the same ordeal with my new add on.

Going to price out the T8's as well.
 
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Delta74

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May 6, 2011
Messages
320
Location
Peachland B.C. Canada
save your money, and spend a little more now and get the T-8's the 12 still work, but the tubes are getting harder to find, price is going up, and when the ballast goes, well good luck, just get the T-8's now and be done with it, and no worry when the ballast craps out.

other side note, the 12's typically don't like to light up as well in colder temps, and will take longer to reach there full brightness.

on a Big kids note, put on your wool socks, shuffle around on the carpet and while holding one end of the tube with the pins digging into your palm, touch the other end of the pins to someone, or something grounded, and watch the lamp flash, yes do it in a dark room.
 

2ManyProjects

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Jul 18, 2013
Messages
757
I was given several 4ft fixtures from a tear down along with quite a bunch of tubes both T8 & T12s. All fixtures are 3 bulb. Some have T12s some have T8s and some are a mixture.

This all sounded like a pretty familiar tune, until you got to the part about having BOTH T8 and T12 tubes in the same fixture. That is decidedly odd, and probably far from ideal for several reasons. At the very least, you should check the ballasts in those fixtures to make sure they are "dual rated" for both tube types.

the T8s all appear to be 32 watts and theT12s 40 watts.

That's fairly normal; but the F40T12s are antiques, which are not even made any more (tho' some remain in the distribution chain, as of right now). Odds are that before long the best you're going to do in terms of replacement tubes is the so-called "Energy Saver" F34T12 types.

Will the12s & 8s have equal light out put ?

No. Not even close.

A typical F32T8 tube will produce about 2700-2800 lumens (some high-output variants will go significantly higher), on a nominal 32 watts; and after they age, they'll lose maybe 5-10% of their initial output.

Meanwhile, F40T12 tubes vary somewhat; but these are typical:

http://www.1000bulbs.com/product/6348/F-40T12DX.html
Lumens (Initial): 2180
Lumens (Mean): 1770

http://www.1000bulbs.com/product/4660/F-40T12DXALTO.html
Lumens (Initial): 2325
Lumens (Mean): 2025

Note that not only do they use more power to put out less light, they also degrade more severely over time.

The more common F34T12 tubes are even worse:

http://www.1000bulbs.com/product/6346/F-40T12CWXSS.html
Lumens (Initial): 1925
Lumens (Mean): 1656

Still using (slightly) more power than an F32T8, but producing MUCH less light.

What should I do to maximize the light per unit.

Throw them away and buy better lights?

I'm only half kidding. Those old T12 fixtures & tubes were free for a reason: They are essentially worthless. The T8s MIGHT be salvageable; but I frankly would not even waste my time installing the T12s.

I do realize that bulb color will make a perceived difference . All the bulbs I have seem the same.

But what, exactly? This is another area where old T12 stuff tends to fare VERY poorly by comparison to more modern stuff.

They also have plastic dimpled light defusers in the fixtures. Good or bad?

Depends to some extent on the particular fixture, and to an even larger extent on how they will be used and in what sort of environment. Fixtures with diffusers are generally better for relatively low-ceiling applications, where the lights will be mounted below perhaps 10-12 feet or so. If you're mounting the lights higher than that, you probably don't really need the wider light distribution such diffusers produce, nor the impact protection they can provide. You've told us NOTHING about your application, so it's anyone's guess.

Any education will be appreciated

Consider what can be bought for about $22:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_163697-337-WP232RLU_0__?productId=3181895
080083518647.jpg


That's actually a pretty nice piece, with a Residential-rated (i.e., low EMI/RFI radiation) ballast; and the two F32T8 tubes it uses will put out about the same amount of light as THREE F34T12 tubes (more, after the tubes have aged), while using only about 60% of the power to do it.

T12's are pretty cheap if you're on a budget.

NO WAY.

Look at the examples I cited above. F32T8s are even cheaper, starting at about $1.50 each (cf.http://www.1000bulbs.com/category/f32t8-fluorescent-tubes); but that is beside the point. The problem is, you need three F34T12s to get roughly the same light output as two F32T8s, and so you will be using more than half-again the electricity in the process. THAT is the "killer"; because in ALL cases, the operating costs utterly swamp the purchase costs of the tubes AND the fixtures, in the long run.



Something funky is going on here. First, when I look up that exact model number (C 2 96T8 120 GEB) on the non-Canuckistan HD site, I get:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lithonia...ip-Fluorescent-Light-C-2-96-120-GEB/202329356

Which, as you will note IS a T12 fixture. It would appear that one webmaster or the other has screwed up.

But it really doesn't matter, because in EITHER case, the fixture in question would be a pretty horrible choice.

At $40.78 (US price), it's not particularly cheap. See above for what you can get for about half that.

But far more problematic than the initial purchase price are the tubes required. Depending on which web site you believe, that's either F96T8 (cf. http://www.1000bulbs.com/category/t8-single-pin-instant-start-linear-fluorescent-tubes/), or F96T12 (cf. http://www.1000bulbs.com/category/f96t12-fluorescent-tubes/). Either way, they're horrid: At about 96 lumens/watt, the F96T8s are slightly more efficient than standard 4-foot F54T5HO tubes; but that's where the advantages end. They remain significantly more expensive, and a real PITA to safely transport and store without breaking them (not to mention disposal). And having to switch on eight feet of light at a time makes for inflexible switching schemes.

The F96T12s are also expensive and difficult to deal with; but as an added bonus, are MUCH less efficient (about 58-60 lumens/watt).

 
Last edited:

ezzzzzzz

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Jan 25, 2012
Messages
359
T12's are going away. Dollar for dollar the T8 is your best bet. I run 13 8' 4 tube T8's using 5000k bulbs. These are on seven different switches to illuminate the area I'm working in only. Even in temps down to single digits (the hvac isn't complete yet) they come on immediately and at full output. It's like daylight.
 
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