Table saw blade selection?

[SIVART0506]

GJ is normally my go-to reference for this stuff, but it seems like I'm systemically fubar'd on finding anything useful on this one, here's the breakdown.

I have a pretty nice, old craftsman 3hp table saw,(belt drive) and a random project for a friend that involves making 24"x24" panels out of 7/16" OSB board. The catch is that I need to do 45 degree chamfers on all the edges but only 1/8" in. So, the question is........... What's my best option in terms of blades? I'd really like to just run everything through the table saw rather than use a router or something else.

Disclaimer: The materials and design are NOT my doing, and this is basically a favor for a friend- although a potential PITA........

 

[jake00]

Custom blade made by a sharpening shop

 

[theoldwizard1]

Carbide tipped plywood/panel blade. The more teeth the better. You may have to yake the blade off a couple of times and clean it.

 

[jakemac]

I'm with wizard, more teeth = smoother cut.

 

[DMAR]

Get a Forest blade, expensive, but hard to beat the quality and results. A general purpose blade will have 40 teeth, and will work well for ripping, as well as cross cuts. Higher tooth count blades are great for the right applications, but I would not recommend one for an all-around blade.

 

[woody 73]

A good Forrest blade will set you back a lot of cash just warning you up front:

http://www.forrestblades.com/

 

[rsanter]

I think I would use an old school plywood hollow ground blade if you can find one.
In lieu of that go with the carbide with an many teeth as possible

Or go to a router table/shaper if you have one

Bob

 

[PJNJ]

A very good alternative to Forrest at a slightly lower price is Ridge Carbide -
http://ridgecarbidetool.com/saw-blades.html

I have a Ridge blade on my 12" miter and it is excellent. I also have a 10" blade for my table saw but have not used it as of yet (life got in the way for awhile).

Both very good companies. I visited both places a few years ago since I live in North Jersey (for only a short while longer).

The Ridge Carbide ts2000 series blades are very good.

 

[rick carpenter]

I'm impressed with Diablo blades, they are at HD.

 

[SIVART0506]

Everyone,
Thanks for the input! I'm going to see what I can come up with here- as I'm on a relatively tight schedule, so I need to come up with something in the next day or two....... Although I'll be looking for some of those spendy forresters though in terms of long term use.

 

[WoodShopDisaster]

You mentioned an older ts, is it right tilt? If so, I wouldn't run the panels with the fence to the right of the tilted blade. trapping work pieces on the ts is a recipe for disaster. If I were doing this project, I would keep the blade at 90, cut the panels to size, then chamfer the panels with a router and chamfer bit. If the work piece is properly supported, you can manage the chamfers with a hand held router, router table if you have the necessary support.

 

[Elginz]

Chamfer the panels with a router would be what I would do. A chamfer bit with a bearing.

 

[RivennHewn]

I can't think of a blade that wouldn't do what you need.

Set up will be more important. A good zero-clearance plate and possible a sacrificial wooden fence. Depending on your tilt.

Chamfering OSB with router won't give you a very nice, clean edge as the cut edge of the OSB usually isn't all that flat and smooth.

Matsushita blades aren't as expensive as Forrest, but better than Diablo or anything you'll buy at HD.
http://matsushitaamerica.com.p10.hostingprod.com/products.htm

 

[RAYJAY]

I'm impressed with Diablo blades, they are at HD.

x2 on the diablo we run them on all the saws we have

try amazon for the blades price is better than HD

 

[ahab]

A 60 to 80 tooth would do nicely for what you're trying to do. More teeth require more power so beware.

I picked up a variety of Diablo blades at a local liquidation outlet for HD returns at half price of what HD prices them at. They're way better than the stock blades for most saws.

I'd think a router table would be ideal for what you're trying to do though.

 

[southalabama]

I like Freud blades on my old craftsman.

 

[jetdawg]

Diablos are low end, forrest is somewhat gimmicky. Amana is top notch and less money, superb quality and lots of resharpening potential.

 

[retfr8flyr]

Here is your best bang for the buck for OSB. All the glue in OSB ruins a blade very quickly. I would get a few of these and just change to a new one when it starts getting dull.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Avanti-10-in-x-200-Tooth-OSB-Plywood-Saw-Blade-A10200X/202021698

This a decent blade that wont break the bank. I wouldn't spend a lot of money for a blade to cut OSB but if you do, then the more teeth the better with OSB.

 

[DonPowers]

I think I would use an old school plywood hollow ground blade if you can find one.
In lieu of that go with the carbide with an many teeth as possible

Or go to a router table/shaper if you have one

Bob

I'm with Bob on the hollow ground plywood blade.

 

[cgv69]

I have a pretty nice, old craftsman 3hp table saw,(belt drive)

Just so you know, those older CM contractor saws marked "3HP" are not 3HP. More like 1-1.5HP at best. Still fine for the job but try cutting some hardwood that is 4/4 or thicker and you will quickly see it start to bog down. Just an FYI.

The Forrest WWII is a great general purpose blade and will get the job done but for the chamfering job, I would probably go with an 80t finish blade and the Diablo blades are decent enough for the right price.

Keep in mind that with OSB, getting smooth finished edge cut will not be easy. I would suggest you make a zero clearance insert specifically for this job and set it up so that you are chamfering on the bottom. Meaning if you have a right tilt blade, you will want your fence on the left side of the blade with the edge to be chamfered down on the table. Obviously reverse that if you have a left tilt blade (which IIRC that is what the older CM saws have?). Also make sure you feed the work some what slowly but still steady.