To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Table saw motor won't stay running

jumpstart

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 11, 2009
Messages
401
Location
Central MA
I've got a Delta table saw I set up a few weeks ago. Been new in the crate for years in a heated basement. Never been used before.

I set it up and started using it to finish the trim on the shop windows. After only maybe a dozen cuts, I noticed it slowed down, then tripped the breaker.

20amp so I know the circuit is sufficient. I tried using an outlet on a different circuit. Same thing. It starts and runs at a slower speed then trips the breaker. Regular breakers in the panel, not gfcis.

So basically brand new motor. There are 2 capacitors on the outside of the motor. Should I just replace those and see what happens? I don't really know much about electric motor diag.
 

Attachments

  • 20240413_115103.jpg
    20240413_115103.jpg
    682.3 KB · Views: 27
  • 20240413_114825.jpg
    20240413_114825.jpg
    452.1 KB · Views: 28
  • 20240413_114634.jpg
    20240413_114634.jpg
    553.1 KB · Views: 28
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

BukitCase

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 11, 2017
Messages
1,075
Location
Oregon
Been new in the crate for years in a heated basement
That's your clue - those are both electrolytic capacitors, one is the "start" capacitor, the other is the "run" capacitor - electrolytics do NOT like to be un-powered for long periods of time, their "electrolyte" will dry out and seriously lower the REAL capacitance - The white one is your "run" capacitor and is likely the main problem, but BOTH are no longer what they say they are.

Your switch is probably fine... Steve
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
J

jumpstart

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 11, 2009
Messages
401
Location
Central MA
That's your clue - those are both electrolytic capacitors, one is the "start" capacitor, the other is the "run" capacitor - electrolytics do NOT like to be un-powered for long periods of time, their "electrolyte" will dry out and seriously lower the REAL capacitance - The white one is your "run" capacitor and is likely the main problem, but BOTH are no longer what they say they are.

Your switch is probably fine... Steve
Totally makes sense. I'll swap out both capacitors with new and see what happens. Thanks
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom