Table saw reccomendation

[IlliniBone]

I searched for this and haven't seen new recommendations for about a year, so hoping to get some up-to-date help on picking out a table saw. I am looking for something that is fairly precise (build cabinets, bookcases, etc.) but not looking to spend the money on a $1k cabinet saw. Something that can cut dados, rip 4'x8' sheets if necessary, accurate cuts. Preferably, I would be under $500.

I've always been partial to Craftsman tools (good price, decent quality for a DIY'er like myself) but their table saws do not have the best reviews. This is the one I had been looking at: http://www.sears.com/craftsman-10in...p-00921807000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1

I know there is a coupon or 2 I could use and also I have around $15 in SYWR points.

There are 2 Ridgid versions that HD carries, the professional model for $549 and the portable model for $499. My local HD has honored the 25% HF coupon in the past, so if thats still the case I have been leaning towards a Ridgid saw.

Theres also a couple Dewalt and Porter Cable compact job site saws for a good price at HD or Lowes (such as... http://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-1...Table-Saw-DW745/100497987?N=c29i#.UsRk0PRDsuA )

I dont have a problem building an outfeed table for these to sit on, seeing as they will only be moved around my garage. Any recommendations/comments/suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Edit: Also forgot to mention, I would rather buy new than used

 

[LEVE]

I have the Rigid Portable Contractor's table saw. It does everything I need it to. I like it because of my newly moved into smaller garage. I can fold it up and roll it against the wall and it doesn't take much space.

I found it on Craig's list for $50, it needed a new motor. The owner was honest and posted it as needing the motor. $200 later with a new motor it's been purring along ever since.

I'm soon going to invest in some dado blades. I bought it for the same reason you did, making accurate cuts for shelving and cabinet work. For the price I have invested in the saw, I couldn't go wrong. I'd buy a new one in a heartbeat if I needed one.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Around here there are always 5-10 older Craftsman table saws available on CL for under $200. The best bang for your buck will be a 10", with belt drive, a cast iron table and cast iron extensions. Don't worry about rust. Steel wool and it will look like new.

The Bosch saw with the folding stand are very good also, you just don't see them on CL very often.

 

[zkling]

If I was you I'd read through some of the many hobby wood working table saw reviews. At your price point and wanting to purchase new, that is going to be your best option to learn about what is currently out. Probably a Ridgid, but honestly I don't know enough about those types of saws to make a good recommendation.

I will add this though. If you can get away from the new aspect. The older, all metal, craftsman saws that pop up for ~$100 at most. Are really nice running saws.

 

[exmaxima]

I don't even know where to begin----any Sears table saw built in the last 15 years is just junk. In fact, I would buy one newer than 30 years old.

Look for a used Delta Contractor Saw with a belt-drive and cast iron top. Should be able to get one for less than $200 with some blades. It will run much smoother/quieter, have more power, and you can always get you investment back when you upgrade to a Unisaw later on

I checked CL in Denver, and most of Contractor saws appear to have either direct drive (not belt), or a blade size less than 10", which is not what you want. But a bit further out is a belt model that represents what you should seek. It does include the rip fence (not shown): http://boulder.craigslist.org/tls/4246205442.html

I'd avoid any direct drive/plastic/Chinese table saw at all cost!

 

[Bunk]

I bought the Ridgid R4511 saw when they were on closeout a couple few years ago...I picked it up for $350 or something like that. I am completely happy with it and I bought it for satisfying needs very similar to yours. A full on cabinet saw was out of the question, but I wanted something more than a folding contractor saw.
I'd say make the stretch and go for the R4512.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I had the Cman saw you have linked. It lasted about 2 years before the switch kit working.I put a different switch in it and it gave me about another 5 years before it burned it. I think it stalled out about 5 times and tripped the breaker during that time. It's direct drive like a router, which is what it sounds like when you turn it on.

Personally, if you gave me a new one, I'd tell you no thanks and give it right back to you.


Like a few other members have mentioned, find an older belt driven, cast iron table Cman on CL.

EDIT: This is a link to the saw that I found on CL, luckily, they had a bandsaw that I picked up also.

http://garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=115965

 

[A_Pmech]

You can buy a used Unisaw for 500 bux...

 

[woody 73]

Funny story but I have a Craftsman Table saw from 82, that is over 30 years old and it is great shape with little rust, but I can find no takers for $125.00 dollars. Oh well maybe one day I can call it a rare object like myself...

Keep looking on CL for an older saw one will pop up from time to time in your part of the Denver area.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Woody how about picture of the saw to show the OP what he can find on CL ? I know another member here (luke7734) has been looking for a saw.

 

[skruft]

Here is my limited personal experience.

I use a Powermatic 66 cabinet saw, which is very expensive and probably overkill for me.

Also I still have a Craftsman contractor saw with a cast iron top, probably 25 years old. This was my first table saw. When I first got it, it was all right except that it vibrated too much. I added a linked belt and the vibration completely stopped. This saw then worked just fine within its limitations.

If I had to do it all over again I would probably get one of the used Delta Unisaws that show up fairly often.

However, you do not need a fancy saw to make cabinets. For instance my uncle made new cabinets throughout his house with a very simple portable table saw. Clearly it was slow and he had to use great care, but it did work. I suspect that he cut plywood sheets in some other way.

 

[exmaxima]

Also I still have a Craftsman contractor saw with a cast iron top, probably 25 years old. This was my first table saw. When I first got it, it was all right except that it vibrated too much. I added a linked belt and the vibration completely stopped. This saw then worked just fine within its limitations.

I have a POS Craftsman saw at work like you described---vibrated bad. I fitted multi-vee pulleys and flat belt from a belt-drive Ridgid saw and it made a world of improvement. I think some of the Ridgid saws still use them.
Still working on a similar scheme for my 1963 Unisaw, if I can get my machinist friend to make the pulleys for me (the hard parts are the keyways).

 

[WQ59B]

My issue with table saws is the fences. They tend -on most brands- to have too much wobble as they lock down, IE; they don't lock consistently parallel to the blade. Even a geared fence (forget what brand) I looked at a few years ago still had too much wobble IMO.

I have an early '90s Makita 2708, passed to me by my brother. What makes it work is the table has machined grooves across it's top, enabling anyone with a good eye to get perfect fence alignment. So while the fence doesn't work any better... vs. those table saws with smooth tops, at least alignment is.

http://media.liveauctiongroup.net/i/7751/9342801_1.jpg?v=8CC97EB9AA6D1D0

 

[woody 73]

A picture of my same model (although mine is in A-1 shape):

http://columbus.craigslist.org/tls/4218233902.html

Another one they are giving away for free on the curb...see maybe I am asking too much money

http://columbus.craigslist.org/tls/4220040727.html

 

[ctb]

The best table saw you will find for your price is going to be used. Get used to that. Nothing made in the last 20 years has the accuracy that an old delta contractors saw has for the price.

They are the best buy on the used market today, backed up by a good parts supply.

You can adjust that saw to cut as well as a cabinet saw, the only difference being the obvious - lack of horsepower. 11/2 vs 3hp on the cabinet saws. I never saw this as a problem on the saw I owned, just kept a sharp blade on it.

The fence is the key. A unifence or a biesemeyer will give you consistently accurate cuts. One of these fences will turn a 60's or a 70's sears table saw into a winner.

Other than that, if you can find an old unisaw, or powermatic, or general that is in good shape you will have the cats' ***.

 

[mjozefow]

Buy a Unisaw or Powermatic 65/66.

I've got two big Northfield 16" saws as well as a portable Bosch. The 66's I have used would be my pick for a good all-around saw. I wouldn't trade though...

 

[exmaxima]

You can buy a used Unisaw for 500 bux...

In the Chicago area, there is one on CL for $200!! If I didn't already have one, I'd grab that in a heartbeat!

http://chicago.craigslist.org/nch/tls/4263860454.html

 

[Regnar]

All very good suggestion but just want to make sure you have considered Track Saws. I know guys who build great looking cabinets and furniture with a Router and a Track Saw.

 

[Kev442]

I would not buy a direct drive saw to do cabinet builds. Jet had a great rep when I went shopping 15 years ago, I could not believe the runout on the arbor shaft, same with the Cman direct drive.
I was getting frustrated until I discovered that HD had taken over the Emerson saws when Sears got too cheap to sell them anymore. I got the Ridgid 2424LS with the flat belt and am a happy camper. I see them on CL now for $250 or less as they are three generations old now.

 

[alinc100]

In the Chicago area, there is one on CL for $200!! If I didn't already have one, I'd grab that in a heartbeat!

http://chicago.craigslist.org/nch/tls/4263860454.html

The dust door and the art deco switch can be parted off this saw and sold on EBay for close to $200 essentially making the saw free!!!

I have a secondary switch/safety device that makes my(factory) switch unnecessary ,but in interest of trying to keep the parts together have not sold my switch and I don't have the original dust door.

 

[cagullett1]

I was in the exact same boat a few weeks ago. Chose the Ridgid R4512 because it's base is movable, cast iron top, belt driven, and doesnt take up a TON of space when not in use.

 

[sparksftball69]

I have the rigid granite top table saw…its heavy as sh!t and its a beast but its worked flawless for a few years now…bought it new…when they a had a rigid fathers day sale…got the saw, compound miter saw, sander, and router for less than a 1000

 

[IlliniBone]

I am leaning toward a new Ridgid table saw but might take a look at the used route.

It seems many would recommend a saw like this... http://denver.craigslist.org/tls/4236395215.html instead of going the new route? Thanks everyone for the suggestions.

 

[Jcc76]

IlliniBone,

Buying a table saw nowadays is a challenge. You've got the high-end stuff which is completely out of your price range, and then the low-end, made out of plastic, portable saws.

I'll tell you right now that Ridgid saw is going to be hard to find. If your local Home Depot doesn't already have one, you MIGHT be able to order it, but expect to pay the shipping price (even if you have it shipped to the store) and also expect it to be backordered with no estimated date for arrival. Buying Ridgid woodworking products nowadays is somewhat equivalent to buying goods in the old Soviet Union. Everything's on display in the shop window, but nothing is actually available for sale!

That being said, I'm told the Craftsman table saw which is usually $599 is the identical saw to the Ridgid one. And if you look at a couple of Sears stores, you might be able to find the high-end Cman Professional model on a deep discount. About a year ago, they had one in my area, brand-new in the box, marked down to $500 (an almost 50% discount!!).

Otherwise, the Porter-Cable contractors saw sold at Lowe's comes very highly recommended, and you may be able to get it on clearance. It's also made in Taiwan, rather than China, if that's important to you.

If you decide to go the "used" route, I'd be patient. My table saw was a brand new in the box Craftsman from 1995 which some guy on Craigslist sold me almost 2 years ago. He'd kept it in his garage since the 1990's and just never opened it. Had I passed on it, there was a Ridgid from 2002 which was being sold on Craigslist several months later. Brand-new in the box, "Built in USA", and perfectly preserved in some guy's paid storage locker for the last decade or so.

Lots of people buy these big power tools for one reason or another, and never get around to opening the box. Then they just want their money back. I'll tell you, there's nothing quite like opening some new old stock, and seeing something perfectly preserved like a time capsule. Sometimes there's even old advertisements and catalogs included. And then you get to build it, the entire time thinking that what you're putting together is so much better made than what you could be buying now. It's awesome.

So, the deals are out there. I'd just be patient over the next few months and see what you can get.

 

[PugetDude]

Unless you want a stationary cabinet saw, I recommend BOSCH...
I sold off my POS Craftsman Contactors saw a few years ago and upgraded to the BOSCH... smooth as silk, and the gravity rise stand is great for moving it around. One of the best tool upgrades I ever made.

 

[exmaxima1]

It seems many would recommend a saw like this... http://denver.craigslist.org/tls/4236395215.html instead of going the new route? Thanks everyone for the suggestions.

That saw is a Direct Drive, which is not as powerful or durable as a belt drive model. In your area the best bet is:

http://boulder.craigslist.org/tls/4246205442.html

I contacted the seller and it is in Lafayette, not too far from Denver. It is a solid saw for only $165 (or less).

 

[ez-duzit]

Get a real table saw.

From this thread.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=3628103#post3628103

Good advice. A Unisaw or Powermatic 10" cast iron table saw. The older, the better. These have been in production for many decades. Many of them have seen little use. Look for a 3.0 hp/220 model. If no 220, watch for the 1.5 hp. I have both, a coarse, carbide ripping blade with Beismeyer fence on the 3.0, and a fine carbide finish blade on the 1.5 hp. These are good machines and a giant step above those portable saws.

Attached alongside my 3 hp Unisaw, on a common rolling base, and sharing the long fence, is a 10" Rockwell contractor's saw with 8"x1/2" dado and 1.5 hp motor. This is quite a good machine, but not up to cabinet saw standards. Still, useful for low $.

Obviously there are many other brands, some obscure, that will do an equal or better job. But, because of the shear numbers produced and their basic goodness, Unisaw and Powermatic offer excellent used value and parts and accessory availability. Depending mostly on condition plus how good a fence and what blades and accessories come with it, a really excellent one might cost you $500-$800 but be money well spent. My 3 hp came to me with a carbide blade, a mobile base, table extension and Unifence, in near new condition, for ~$800.

One need not be an expert to look at a used machine and tell how much and how badly it was used. But a proper inspection can be made if you are willing to prepare yourself to do it. I would bring my own piece of wood with which to demo, if you have any doubts. If you are patient and determined you could save many 100'$

 

[msgross]

http://www.lowes.com/pd_89913-PCB220TS_0_?productId=3163783

I have this one and it works great, plus folds up in the corner when not in use. Bought it on CL for $200, like new

 

[IlliniBone]

Found this table saw on CraigsList today...can anyone give me a review or if its a decent deal for $250? Would need it to accept dado blades and make fairly precise cuts. Might offer $225 with pickup...

 

[ez-duzit]

Yeah, I have that exact saw with an 8" dado on it. It isn't a Unisaw but should be worth the money if it hasn't been used up.

 

[IlliniBone]

Thanks. Think I'll go look at it tomorrow.

 

[exmaxima1]

Thanks. Think I'll go look at it tomorrow.

That is exactly what you should be looking for! It would nice if it had cast iron extensions, but the sheet metal ones work fine. The fence is even better than virtually any Craftsman saw.

Lay $200 cash on it and see if the seller goes for it...

Good Luck!

 

[pattenp]

Have you seen the new Delta contractor table saw at Lowe's? Item #: 510897 | Model #: 36-725

 

[k1rodeoboater]

Have you seen the new Delta contractor table saw at Lowe's? Item #: 510897 | Model #: 36-725

The one I saw in their store seemed pretty cheap in regards to construction, though the monkeys that assembled it really did a piss poor job. The base wasn't set up right or didn't fit, nor was the fence properly installed (didn't lock down in the rear but slid smoothly).

Have yet to find an actual review on it online though, so this may be an isolated case or it could very well be indicative of the model.

 

[fury9]

In the Chicago area, there is one on CL for $200!! If I didn't already have one, I'd grab that in a heartbeat!

http://chicago.craigslist.org/nch/tls/4263860454.html

That unisaw is sold! and not to me. To the OP keep an eye out for a good ol unisaw they are very nice.

 

[Doradoguy]

The best table saw you will find for your price is going to be used. Get used to that. Nothing made in the last 20 years has the accuracy that an old delta contractors saw has for the price.

They are the best buy on the used market today, backed up by a good parts supply.

You can adjust that saw to cut as well as a cabinet saw, the only difference being the obvious - lack of horsepower. 11/2 vs 3hp on the cabinet saws. I never saw this as a problem on the saw I owned, just kept a sharp blade on it.

The fence is the key. A unifence or a biesemeyer will give you consistently accurate cuts. One of these fences will turn a 60's or a 70's sears table saw into a winner.

Other than that, if you can find an old unisaw, or powermatic, or general that is in good shape you will have the cats' ***.

Yep....What he said.

I have a biesemeyer fence with an extend table it's priceless. I have a Delta anniversary white addition. With that said, I have purchased several other toy saws. I'll use them for a single job and either give it away or return it. My Delta is too big to bring to job site. I built some pretty bitchin **** with a 100.00 table saw. The key is sharp blade, be patient and if the fence ***** use a square and clamp down your own fence. I would have bought a powermatic but I wanted brand new, when I purchased, think I spent 1200 for the delta with the goodies and powermatic was twice the price. I would by a used one and save your money for a nice fence. Try to find a home owner that used it occasionally vs. a cabinet shop. good luck.

 

[DennisR]

Another vote for the Unisaw.

 

[pattenp]

I didn't see any issues with the one (Delta 36-725) set up on display in the Lowe's I was in. It looked decent for the price ($599). It's not a high end saw by no means. I looked for reviews on it, but it is so new there aren't any. One main thing I liked about it was it's belt driven. As they say... you get what you pay for.

The one I saw in their store seemed pretty cheap in regards to construction, though the monkeys that assembled it really did a piss poor job. The base wasn't set up right or didn't fit, nor was the fence properly installed (didn't lock down in the rear but slid smoothly).

Have yet to find an actual review on it online though, so this may be an isolated case or it could very well be indicative of the model.

 

[ew1]

I bought this from Sears.
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-prof...p-00921833000P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2

I've had it for over a year and have not had any problems with it. The fence is better than what I have used berfore, it has enough room to rip plywood, and I like that it has wheels which makes it easy to move around. The one thing I did change was the blade. Mine came with a 45 tooth blade which was complete garbage. I replaced it with a 90 tooth diablo and it cuts much smoother.

 

[IlliniBone]

Wish I had the space (or money) for a nice Unisaw. I havent seen any posted on Denver CL for under $1k.

I bought a used Ridgid 2412 last night off CL for $130. Runs very smooth, quiet and I love the fence on it. So much more stable than any of the portable big box TS's I've looked at recently.