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Table Saw Recomendations

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kf4zht

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Getting back into woodworking and rather enjoying it. Right now I have one of these Ryobi ones http://www.ryobitools.com/catalog/power_tools/all_saws/RTS30
I got it cheap and at the time it fit nicely in my small shop. Changing the blade did wonders, however the fence has to be aligned on both sides, the built in miter push attachment leaves a lot to be desired and the direct drive motor is easy to stall if you are not being super careful (and then slings the piece back at you)

I want to upgrade to something nicer. While a sawstop or full size cabinet saw would be nice the budget doesn't allow that. Also my new shop doesn't have a huge woodworking area, so I need to be able to roll it in and out of the work area during a project.

It looks like the Ridgid models are very well thought of but CL around there they disappear at $300-350. I can get the newest one for $475 brand new from home depot after coupon (more if they will take a HF coupon).

What other brands/models are good in the "Contractor Style but accurate" zone? I know sears has a pile, but no idea which are good.

Also: Wings - I see cast iron solid, cast webbed, and steel. should I look for any? Avoid any?
 
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strutaeng

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That's funny, because I'm in the opposite boat in woodworking: downsizing.

I had one of those Rigid table saw (TS3650?). I posted it on craigslist and everyone wanted it. It sold the same day. It is a great saw.

I think Craftsman offers a similar model (they look identical except the paint color). Really in a table saw you want a smooth operation, good power, and a good fence. Everything else is extra.

I think the much older Deltas are also good.

Also, get a good blade and miter gage.

Good luck
 
OP
K

kf4zht

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strutaeng said:
That's funny, because I'm in the opposite boat in woodworking: downsizing.

I had one of those Rigid table saw (TS3650?). I posted it on craigslist and everyone wanted it. It sold the same day. It is a great saw.

I think Craftsman offers a similar model (they look identical except the paint color). Really in a table saw you want a smooth operation, good power, and a good fence. Everything else is extra.

I think the much older Deltas are also good.

Also, get a good blade and miter gage.

Good luck
Click to expand...

Yeah, I saw a ridgid 24XX pop up the other day for 350. I held off since several threads indicated they went less than that on clearance. Checked that night and it was already gone.

I have several good blades (no forrest, but close). No miter gauge since my saw lacks one, but I plan on picking up an incra or similar.
 
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t4runner

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I would look for a used Delta Unisaw it worth the search and you can find them for a very reasonable price. Once you go this route you wont be sorry. Im not a big fan of contractor or hybrid saw's but thats just me. I got my saw for I think $150 [ it was a while ago ] I installed a new fence system and it needed a really good cleaning but all and all it cost me $600. It will be the last saw I ever buy. Powermatic are also very good but tend to be pricey even used.
 

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Ross/Kzoo

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If you come across a cast iron table saw for ~$200 on CL then go for it. The saws w/cast iron tops would be 20+ years old.
 
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zkling

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Depending on space, power available, ability to transport and possibly budget. An older Delta unisaw or a powermatic 66 would be a lifetime saw.

The problem with the lower end and some of the older saws is the stock fence. Ususally on the new side in the <$500 range a ridgid variant is the best bang for the buck. Read through some hobby wood working magazines for up to date table saw reviews.

I personally like the older craftsman all metal saws. Even the 8" units are nice. However they can take up the same amount of floor space as the full cabinet saw due to the motor position and the stock fence can be pretty annoying.

For the wings Solid CI>webbed CI>reinforced steel>stamped steel>flat aluminum>webbed aluminum.

woody 73 said:
Oh how I wish I had the Web back in early 1980's...

This is what you need to search for:

http://akroncanton.craigslist.org/tls/4209218347.html
Click to expand...

Just a heads up, that is a 3ph machine. Re powering a large HP cabinet saw can get expensive.
 
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James-W

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I have a Craftsman with a cast iron table and it works pretty decent. The motor was only 1 hp and that just wasn’t enough power for me. It worked alright, but you had to cut pretty slowly or the motor couldn’t handle it, especially if you are ripping a 2X4 edgewise. I ended up buying a 3 hp 220 volt motor for it and that solved the power problem.

The way the table saw comes, you can only cut 24 inches between the saw blade and the rip fence. I modified the table rip fence setup so I can now cut 48 inches between the rip fence and the blade. I seldom need to do that, but on occasion I do have that need.

All things considered, the Craftsman table saw isn’t a bad buy, but it is certainly not the best table saw out there. In my opinion, the Craftsman table saw is fine for the DIY guy to use on home projects, but if you want to get into some serious cabinet making and stuff like that, you want to get a really good high quality table saw. It will cost quite a bit more money, but it will be worth it in the long run. I would also recommend getting one with a 12 inch blade rather than a 10 inch blade. For most projects you will not need a 12 inch blade, but on those occasions when you do need one, you will happy that you have it.
 
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Trey T

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When you say accurate, it has to be the Dewalt with rack-and-pinion fence. It doesn't get any more accurate than that out there and you can roll it in a out.
 
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skippy24

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If you can get a older style Delta Unisaw or something similar then that would be preferable if you have the space and time to restore it if you can find one. Myself, I have a new Ridgid 4512 and have been more than happy with it. No issues ripping plywood or 8/4 hardwood yet. it's on casters so can move it around my garage when needed. I was able to use the HF 20% coupon with it so it was very reasonable. Plus it has a lifetime service agreement so that is another plus. The stock fence is okay and I plan to upgrade to something better when funds permit.
 
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7th Kahuna

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I have a DeWalt 744 that has worked well for me but the saw definitely has it's limits. If I were to replace it today, I would replace it with a Bosch 4100. I have seen a number of really positive reviews of this saw in various magazines. In general, Bosch seems to offer a quality product. Other options would include 50s and 60s Craftsman and Delta / Rockwell benchtop saws. If you like the Delta Unisaw but think it would be too big or too expensive watch for a Jr. Unisaw, early 60's Craftsman Floor Saw, or similar smaller Walker Turner cabinet saw.

Junior Unisaw
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.

Craftsman Floor Saw
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Walker Turner Cabinet Saw
9470-A.jpg


Any of these may take a while to find but the Craftsman and Walker Turner can be picked up cheap. I acquired a Craftsman Floor Saw for $100 in complete working condition. Shortly there after I saw a Walker Turner for $70 that may have needed some work (stored outdoors). The handles on the Craftsman are light weight but the innards appear comparable to the Unisaw. I have read that it is the best saw Sears ever sold.

As much as I like the DeWalt 744, newer versions have been severely cheapened (the newest version looks like a 'demo version' with a cut away cabinet) and I have always had an issue keeping the fence parallel to the blade and DeWalt allows very little in the way of adjustability. Too bad as it was the market leader.
 
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A_Pmech

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The owner of Saw Stop is a world-class *****.

I'd gnaw though a board with my teeth before I bought one of his machines.
 
Z

zkling

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BQuicksilver said:
Or you could use those woodworking skills and upgrade a smaller saw.

198697-438x.jpg
Click to expand...

Buy the time you purchase that fence, materials, time building it, the additional space it takes up. It would be better to invest that additional effort and $ into a proper floor saw off the bat. IMHO of course.

Ross/Kzoo said:
Tell us what you really think. LOL
Click to expand...

I thought the same thing :lol: Come on AP let us have your full opinion of the saw stop. :rant:

Admittedly, we had one at school I used a few times. I really wanted to do the hot dog test, but the capture blocks ain't cheap and they wouldn't let me. I guess cheaper than a lawsuit the university figured. They aren't "bad" per say, just not necessary. I found no advantage over any other properly tuned cabinet saw. :dunno:
 
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ozyborn

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I just use my 1960 Craftsman table saw, cast iron top. Made my extensions for the one side, cast iron router table on the other. I have a drop in extension for the outfeed that is easy to put on and take off. Upgraded fence and motor.
I will not trade it for anything. Almost 7th Kahuna. I might have to travel to raid your garage. That Walker Turner needs a new home.

Sawstop? No thanks. Common sense goes a long ways and use push sticks with riving blade.
 
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zkling

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ozyborn, what router table do you have on your craftsman saw?
 
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MN4x4

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SawStop is rumored to be coming out with a contractors saw in the next months. If you don't find what you want used at a good price, I'd wait for the SawStop.
 
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ez-duzit

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t4runner said:
I would look for a used Delta Unisaw...
Click to expand...

Good advice. A Unisaw or Powermatic 10" cast iron table saw. The older, the better. These have been in production for many decades. Many of them have seen little use. Look for a 3.0 hp/220 model. If no 220, watch for the 1.5 hp. I have both, a coarse, carbide ripping blade with Beismeyer fence on the 3.0, and a fine carbide finish blade on the 1.5 hp. These are good machines and a giant step above those portable saws.

Attached alongside my 3 hp Unisaw, on a common rolling base, and sharing the long fence, is a 10" Rockwell contractor's saw with 8"x1/2" dado and 1.5 hp motor. This is quite a good machine, but not up to cabinet saw standards. Still, useful for low $.

Obviously there are many other brands, some obscure, that will do an equal or better job. But, because of the shear numbers produced and their basic goodness, Unisaw and Powermatic offer excellent used value and parts and accessory availability. Depending mostly on condition plus how good a fence and what blades and accessories come with it, a really excellent one might cost you $500-$800 but be money well spent. My 3 hp came to me with a carbide blade, a mobile base, table extension and Unifence, in near new condition, for ~$800.

One need not be an expert to look at a used machine and tell how much and how badly it was used. But a proper inspection can be made if you are willing to prepare yourself to do it. I would bring my own piece of wood with which to demo, if you have any doubts. If you are patient and determined you could save many 100'$
 
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A_Pmech

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zkling said:
I thought the same thing :lol: Come on AP let us have your full opinion of the saw stop. :rant:
Click to expand...

No, I've said my piece. I'll sit on my hands now.

The article Woody posted will provide a little background as to why I said what I did.
 
7

7th Kahuna

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brianpgriset said:
Is this for real? :confused:

I'd be pretty mad elected officials are waisting their time on this if I lived in CA.
Click to expand...

Funny how that works, a simple failure to read or follow directions, followed by sensationalized media reports, resulting in societal fear and unnecessary do-good legislation. Where have I heard that before. Oh, and it never hurts to throw in a lawyer or two. We have that process mastered around here.

Same problem with radial arm saws. I repeatedly see people point out how dangerous they are, 'wouldn't have one in my garage', 'those things should be banned'. Yet the most common problems are people using the wrong :shocking: blade and not keeping their work areas clear. Nothing wrong with the saws at all, except they take up a lot of space. Used properly I'd say they are safer than a table saw in many respects. Your material is fixed in one place against a fence and the saw's movement is limited by a track.

Sawstop is a great technology but if he cares so much about everyone's safety, he should make the technology freely available and let the market decide. As it stands now, licensing the technology would apparently make saws so expensive that the entry level market would disappear (this is why HomeDepot and Lowes are fighting the legislation). I suspect the result would be more DIYers strapping skillsaws to the bottom of plywood tables the way they did 50 years ago. In general we would see more skillsaw use. Now which is more likely to result in an injury in the hands of a (semi) careless individual, a stationary table saw or a handheld skillsaw (with or without the guard wedged back).

You can't legislate away carelessness.
 
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7

7th Kahuna

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For those who just thought to themselves, 'Wrong Blade???'


PUBLIC SERVICE ANNOUNCEMENT

Please be sure that your Radial Arm Saw is fitted with a Blade the Teeth of which having a Neutral to slightly Negative Pitch. Use of Blades with Teeth of a Positive Pitch (ie chopsaw or table saw blades) may result in an overly aggressive cut and loss of control of the saw and / or a rapid acceleration of the saw motor across the material.

Be Safe Everyone and have a Happy New Year.



HA, no legislation required. :D
 
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imagine44

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Interesting discussion on the Saw Stop. Would I get one? Absolutely.. If it was easily available on the saw I wanted. Should it be legislated? No. I live in CA, so I've run into all sorts of regulations that are meant to keep me safe.

I started woodworking with a year of wood shop in middle school. We had safety training, and were seemingly "let loose on radial arm saws, jointers, table saws, drill presses, lathes, planers, and sharp chisels etc." In reality, we were given projects that gradually introduced us to all the tools. All of it was industrial equipment with names like Tannewitz, Delta, and Oliver. Those were invaluable lessons, and memories. At the end of the year, all the students still had their 10 fingers. Were there a few mishaps?.. yep. I remember one kickback on the table saw, several projects coming loose from the lathes, and someone not clamping their work to the drill press table.

Those shop classes don't exist in CA anymore as far as I know. It's an absolute shame. I've got a son in middle school now, so I am trying to recreate that experience in the garage with him. We are working on projects that introduce different tools in stages. So far he's good with the scroll saw, jigsaw, disk sander, drill press and a range of hand tools. Table saw is next up.. Need to get that blade guard back on.. I can still hear my shop teacher 30 years ago.. "Slow down and check your set ups. Have a healthy respect for the tools." :)
 
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Jcc76

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I'm not sure where I read this, but since the saw industry mandated plastic blade guards on all new table saws (about 2006 or so), there have been ZERO injuries from table saws which were so equipped. Has anyone heard this? If so, it would mean that the "Sawstop" is perhaps not as necessary as originally thought.

That's not to say there hasn't been table saw injuries since 2006, but they've been from saws without the Guard, or perhaps from the "circular saw mounted on plywood" device".

Steve Gass cares about getting rich. He'd love to force the entire industry to adopt his technology...at a premium price, no doubt. His saws start at about $1200 or higher, and they're Made in China, at least the ones I saw at my local high-end tool store.

People on this Board turn up their noses at wrenches made in the PRC. How would you feel about the Sawstop device made by the same folks??
 
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Ross/Kzoo

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Correct me if I'm wrong but I was of the understanding that safety device is a "one shot" deal. After it has been activated it costs many $$$$$$ to return to service.
 
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pacmktg

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Don't for get a new blade too. So if you are using a Forrest Blade, the cost is around $200. If I was buying a new cabinet saw, it would be a Sawstop. I like my fingers. I have been a woodworker for many years and have not had an accident but it only takes one to screw you up for life.

Bob
 
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ez-duzit

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70 now, and still have all my digits. I never use a guard. And I think they are mostly in the way and dangerous because you can't see where the blade is. Certainly they get in the way of many operations on small stock.

If at first you don't succeed, then use a guard. But for competent hands, it's a hindrance.
 
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BQuicksilver

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I concur that Sawstop is owned by an arrogant *****. Are the nice saws? sure, but they DO have occasional false fires, that will always cost ~$75 + blade cost. Just be careful AND USE THE RIVING KNIFE and you'll be safe. Your jointer is probably the most dangerous tool per cut anyway.

Old saws are great, but they do tend to have no riving knife, which gets people into trouble. Modern riving knife >>> sawstop IMO. I find it hard to do good work with the guard intact.

I have a Dwwalt 744. It's a nice and accurate saw, but on larger cuts I do wish I had more table. Of course most of the time my garage appreciates the small footprint. The lack of table space before the blade makes my miter gauge useless on most cuts.
 
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