Table Saw recommendation..

[rwil23]

I'll start by saying I'm still not over missing out on the clearance price Dewalt DW745 from last year..prob would've done me just fine.

Anyhow, been using my father in laws old table saw for jobs at home and tired of having to run back and forth to use it while getting things done mid-project..

I'd like to stay around a few hundred dollars..

That being said - I found an old Craftsman 137.218300 on CL for $100. Seems to have everything and be in good shape. Could someone tell me if I'm crazy for even considering that? Just wondering if anyone has experience with that saw and could shed some light on that.

If that's ridiculous - could someone point me in the right direction in regards to what features are absolutely necessary to look for when buying a table saw, etc? Every appliance has it's "musts" - hoping that those with more experience with these could help me out.

Thanks!

 

[Mark in Indiana]

Perfectly good table saws go for 50$ - 150$ on CL all the time. You will get a much higher quality saw if you buy an older one and clean it up, than a new one. Unless you want to spend over 1000$. Just be sure that what you look at is in good working order. I only paid 20$ for my 1969 C-Man 100 at a yard sale and restored it to look like new for another 30$.

Edit: I'm not sure, but if the model that you mentioned is a direct drive, I'd avoid it. Belt driven ones are better. Easier to repair, built heavier and you can adjust blade speeds (in my experience).

 

[fury9]

Does anybody research the post before they offer advise?That Saw will be just fine. Obviously standard procedure is to offer as little as possible IN PERSON, not by phone,text,email,etc... If the blade ***** offer lower and use that as a starting point, a decent blade is going to start around 60 bucks

 

[TexasT]

http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/lis_pdf/OWNM/L0409535.pdf

Looks like a nice little saw.

 

[rwil23]

http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/lis_pdf/OWNM/L0409535.pdf

Looks like a nice little saw.

Thanks, TexasT.

Had been glancing that over today - unless I'm missing something - the specs on it are quite similar to the Craftsman job site table saw that they currently have up on Sears.com in the $500ish range.

I know the saw is probably about 10 yrs old (since it was released I think - will get more info from owner tmrw if worth it) just don't know if I am crazy for considering it if I could have it for $100 tops.

 

[NUTTSGT]

http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/lis_pdf/OWNM/L0409535.pdf

Looks like a nice little saw.

If that's the saw I think it is, all pastic, with a direct drive motor that normally sells new for about $200, I wouldn't waste my time with that thing. I had one and the switch failed after about the first year and burned up after maybe 3 years of use. Forget about ripping 2x stock with it.

Honestly, you couldn't give me that saw but you could pay me to take it and I'd leave the tailgate down on the way home.


Find a Cman belt driven saw from the 70s or 80s.

 

[rwil23]

If that's the saw I think it is, all pastic, with a direct drive motor that normally sells new for about $200, I wouldn't waste my time with that thing. I had one and the switch failed after about the first year and burned up after maybe 3 years of use. Forget about ripping 2x stock with it.

Honestly, you couldn't give me that saw but you could pay me to take it and I'd leave the tailgate down on the way home.


Find a Cman belt driven saw from the 70s or 80s.

Hard to tell from the pics.

I have this..

Don't know if that'll help anyone figure this out a bit more.

Thanks for all the input already, guys - appreciate your time.

 

[kctyphoon]

I'm sure any portable will work fine,, but if you have the room consider a contractor type.. I got a GREAT deal on mine used off CL

 

[NUTTSGT]

Hard to tell from the pics.

I have this..

Don't know if that'll help anyone figure this out a bit more.

Thanks for all the input already, guys - appreciate your time.

Not the same exact saw I had, but same basic design. Mine had regular legs and wasn't a contractor version. Here's a CL ad like the one I had.
http://columbus.craigslist.org/tls/5358925895.html

Personally, I would keep looking on CL for a better used one. Here's a link to the one I found a couple of years ago. It's an older saw but hands down, IMHO, it's a way better saw. Sorry for the pics.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=115965



BTW, you might want to update your profile with a location, nothign specific but just a general location. It'll help your fellow members answer your questions better when you ask them. Also, there may be another member in your area that knows of a deal on a table saw that he can pass off to you.

 

[MushCreek]

I like a bigger saw if you have the room. I have a Ridgid that HD was dumping for $350 a few years ago, but I see used ones on craigs all the time. Especially good if it comes with a mobile base so you can move it around. The other key with any saw is to adjust it, align it, and set it up properly. Then, invest in decent blades. My saw has been dead-on since it came out of the box.

 

[ratdoggy]

Picked up a new Skil table saw on sale last year at Lowes I think I paid $199...
It has extensions that slide out to handle bigger stuff and it does all I need...
Basically I am not doing fine furniture..
It doesn't seem as if they have the one I bought on their website
I did look on CL but didn't see anything worth checking out...
I went to Sears,HD,Lowes and Menards in my quest

 

[DonPowers]

If that's the saw I think it is, all pastic, with a direct drive motor that normally sells new for about $200, I wouldn't waste my time with that thing. I had one and the switch failed after about the first year and burned up after maybe 3 years of use. Forget about ripping 2x stock with it.

Honestly, you couldn't give me that saw but you could pay me to take it and I'd leave the tailgate down on the way home.


Find a Cman belt driven saw from the 70s or 80s.

I agree with NUTTSGT.

Something else, the specification says 15 amp motor and beside it they say 4.4 Maximum Developed and I presume because it isn't shown HP.

15 amp at 120 volts = 1800 watts.
1800 watts = 2.4 HP considering a 100% efficient motor.
With losses, its more like 1.8 HP

Which gets us to it would have a hard time ripping a 2x stock.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Things to look for in a table saw

• Cast iron table (unless you need to haul it around to job sites)
• Cast iron left and right extensions (same caveat as above)
• Solid legs
• 10" blade capacity (assume you will have to buy 1 or more blades)
• A "good" fence. One that will lock truly parallel to the blade. Premium aftermarket fences can get ridiculously expensive (more than the saw).
• Belt drive

Don't worry about surface rust on the table.

 

[beakie]

I agree with NUTTSGT.

Something else, the specification says 15 amp motor and beside it they say 4.4 Maximum Developed and I presume because it isn't shown HP.

15 amp at 120 volts = 1800 watts.
1800 watts = 2.4 HP considering a 100% efficient motor.
With losses, its more like 1.8 HP

Which gets us to it would have a hard time ripping a 2x stock.

math aside, HP does NOT determine cutting abilities.

countless old Rockwel Delta, etc, cabinet saws came with 3/4HP motors and were used for decades cutting 8/4+ hardwoods.

I just sold a 4HP Rockwell 34-450 that will chew through 2x wood all day with a shat blade on it simply because it's 4HP...
or it will purr through 10/4 white Oak like it wasn't there with a nice Forrest blade on it (or any other sharp ripping blade)





for OP

figure out;
what you expect/want to do with your saw
how much room you can dedicate (or not) to/for it
how much you want to spend

if you want portability find a used Dewalt/Ridgid/Bosch compact/folding/contractor unit. try it first, 5 cut method to check for blade/mitre slot alignment, and check fence

if you have room, get a cabinet saw, buy a good fence and away you go

 

[DonPowers]

math aside, HP does NOT determine cutting abilities.

countless old Rockwel Delta, etc, cabinet saws came with 3/4HP motors and were used for decades cutting 8/4+ hardwoods.

I just sold a 4HP Rockwell 34-450 that will chew through 2x wood all day with a shat blade on it simply because it's 4HP...
or it will purr through 10/4 white Oak like it wasn't there with a nice Forrest blade on it (or any other sharp ripping blade)





for OP

figure out;
what you expect/want to do with your saw
how much room you can dedicate (or not) to/for it
how much you want to spend

if you want portability find a used Dewalt/Ridgid/Bosch compact/folding/contractor unit. try it first, 5 cut method to check for blade/mitre slot alignment, and check fence

if you have room, get a cabinet saw, buy a good fence and away you go

I agree with you on the HP and the saws you referenced were belt drive, which is something Eric suggested and I agreed with. I just have a problem with companies that overstate HP which is something that CMan does on a regular basis.

 

[Toolfool]

Look for a Delta Contractor saw on craigslist. I see them frequently for $150 - $250. I have one that's still running strong after 25 years of hard use.

 

[Maexle]

I got this one and really like it, precise cuts and easy to maneuver if needed:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000S5S5CW/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[dacan23]

I always wanted that one but didnt want to pay over $500. I got a Dewalt DWE7491 w/ rolling stand shipped for $492. They are pretty much equally rated.

OP - The limitation of the DW745 is that I dont think you can use a dado in it, I eliminated it from consideration despite the decent reviews and price for that reason.

I got this one and really like it, precise cuts and easy to maneuver if needed:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000S5S5CW/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[davewo]

A jobsite saw is like a circular saw with a table.
It makes the rated HP because the little motor is screaming on the RPMs before it enters the gear-reduction box. It "makes" 4.4 hp because of the amp-draw right before stalling.

I would love to recommend a cabinet saw as I have a 5hp Powermatic, but I think if the OP is looking at a jobsite saw, then that's what he needs.

 

[Casey69]

my old craftsman table saw (like the one pictured above) ***** & is a disaster waiting to happen. it'd be fine for ripping trimwork & small jobs, but it's very easy to tip over if you have a sheet of osb/plywood or any larger & heavy items. ideally, the rickety stand should be bolted to the floor to keep it stable, but i don't use it very often.

 

[rwil23]

My bad, guys - went MIA for a couple of days..

I appreciate all of your info/time - prob thought out from every angle.

I think I came to my senses a bit - if I'm going to find a deal on Craigslist, it will be for a much better saw. I looked up some Delta and other contractor-grade saws and they can be had for reasonable prices - just need a bit of luck to find them.

Hope this doesn't sound crazy - decided to pick up a Dewalt DW745 for the time being. Seems to get good reviews, is portable so I can use it inside/outside, will have a warranty if I have any issues, etc. also, grabbed it at $229 and got 5% off the top - not bad. Waiting to see if they clearance them out like last year as it was marked an 'inactive' SKU in the HD comp.

A couple of things I'd like to do - upgrade the blade - prob grab a Diablo.

Also, decide how I'd like to mount it - don't know if anyone could weigh in on that. I've seen Dewalt sells a rolling stand that fits this saw that can be had for around $145 - if anyone has experience with that or another way to mount the saw for use, I'd be interested in knowing what the deal is.

And, again, thanks for all the info and time!



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[jwvess00]

Hi there!

For a saw you won't be hauling around to construction sites, theoldwizard1 has it right -- *flat* iron table, belt drive.

For general work, for a table saw a Forrest Woodworker 2 blade is the best choice, but it is not cheap. I have a Forrest WW1 in my radial arm saw and love it. My second choice is a Freud blade. I had a Freud before the Forrest, and it did pretty well. I used it enough that I had it resharpened.

Ripping takes a lot more power than crosscuts, so if you're going to be doing a lot of rip cuts, get a dedicated ripping blade.