Table saw rust.

[Andy Griffith]

I’ve got some rust developing on the top of my table saw (older craftsman contractor type saw).

What should be used to clean the rust off, and then what do you recommend to coat the top with to help keep the rust at bay?

This particular saw will not be used for another year or thereabouts, so it could be coated with something that is longer lasting if that makes any difference.

Thanks

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,.... In both cases, Fluid Film,.....

 

[Cope]

I use 4/0 steel wool with either Marvel Mystery Oil or WD-40. Once it is clean, I wipe dry and wax with Min-Wax.

 

[A_Pmech]

I use Johnson's Paste Wax on all my woodworking machinery. It keeps the table slick, and doesn't cause any finishing issues.

 

[Honu425]

And if MinWax isn't readily available, use Johnson's Paste Wax. Get it in the grocery store.

 

[Corndoggeh]

Rough steel wool to get the rust off and then fine steel wool as a "polish" granted that the rust is not heavy and is lighter surface rust spots (not the whole table). Otherwise a wire wheel would be best for the whole table. After derusting, use a paste wax and glob and really work the wax on the metal and do not buff the wax off until your ready to use again, that should protect the top for atleast 1-2 years at minumum. Ive seen some people have the wax on for over 5 years (the husband/father passes away, etc) and with no rust developed under the wax.

Any parts where you cant get the wax into, use ballistol or coat with grease (for the gears)

 

[PelicanPines]

I have a strange situation with my cast iron topped saw... I would clean it... polish it with minwax... but I would still get CAT FOOT PRINTS that would rust on the surface... so... I now clean the top with 4/0... minwax it... then I cut a sheet of 1/4 plywood that matches the top and is now used to cover the surface...

Since I started this... no more foot prints.

My X/Y table on my drill press is coated in fluid film but can't take myself to use that on my table saw.

 

[IowaDon]

I use WD-40 and my hook & loop random orbit sander with maroon Scotch-bright pads cut into 6" squares to clean. Follow up with Johnson's.

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[Git]

Johnstons here also (you can get it at Lowes)

I just saw today that MLCS has a magnetic table saw cover that is worth considering and is on sale ($15 off)

https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/magnetic_table_saw_cover.html

 

[6PTsocket]

Ayuh,.... In both cases, Fluid Film,.....

Just bought Fluid Film l. Have not tried it yet. Up to now it it has been WD40 and 0000 followed by Boeshield T9. For long term storage leave it on thick and waxy. Wipe off excess when ready to use. Starrett A1 is a good protetective spray, too.

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[tarbellb]

I use WD-40 and my hook & loop random orbit sander with maroon Scotch-bright pads cut into 6" squares to clean. Follow up with Johnson's.

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This ^^^ or even 180/220 grit.

 

[Bondo]

Just bought Fluid Film l. Have not tried it yet. Up to now it it has been WD40 and 0000 followed by Boeshield T9. For long term storage leave it on thick and waxy. Wipe off excess when ready to use. Starrett A1 is a good protetective spray, too.

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Ayuh,... It's pretty cool stuff,....

One of those, "How did I ever live without it" things,....

 

[bob15]

Clean it with a scotch-brite pad and coat it with Butcher's Wax

 

[Eric29]

I have never had luck with fluid film in removing rust. It coats tools so that rust doesn't form, but when I put it on a tool with rust, it seems to just sit on top of the rust. I tried it on the base of my drill press, which used to look like the top of my table saw in that it's cast-iron and was very shiny. I wiped it down after I put it on, and it made no difference. It's been on there now for about three weeks and still isn't eating away at the rust.

I wouldn't suggest fluid film. I used a kit from Rockler with boeshield and two other chemicals to shine my tablesaw up and protect it. Looks great now.

Ayuh,.... In both cases, Fluid Film,.....

 

[6PTsocket]

I have never had luck with fluid film in removing rust. It coats tools so that rust doesn't form, but when I put it on a tool with rust, it seems to just sit on top of the rust. I tried it on the base of my drill press, which used to look like the top of my table saw in that it's cast-iron and was very shiny. I wiped it down after I put it on, and it made no difference. It's been on there now for about three weeks and still isn't eating away at the rust.

I wouldn't suggest fluid film. I used a kit from Rockler with boeshield and two other chemicals to shine my tablesaw up and protect it. Looks great now.

Fluid film was never intended to remove rust. It is a protective coating, like Boeshield T9 to protect against rust or more rust. One of the other items in the Boeshield kit is phosphoric acid, like NavalJelly and a mess if other rust converters. Even Coke works because it contains phosphoric acid.

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[visiting guest]

not hijacking the thread
my table saw is rusty too.
but my main complaint is i can't read my measurement tape on the fence any longer.
i post a pic shortly so you can see

 

[cheechi]

Johnstons here also (you can get it at Lowes)

I just saw today that MLCS has a magnetic table saw cover that is worth considering and is on sale ($15 off)

https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/magnetic_table_saw_cover.html

wax paper with magnets to hold it down is what I was always taught. That is a pretty convenient way to do it though.

I have used the scotch brite stuck on sanders before and it's a great way if you have a light touch to do a lot of misc things easily.

paste wax is cheaper but more work than boeshield. but it's what I use.

far as the rust removal when I was taught it was straight kero we used but since wd40 is usually what I grab first. Friend of mine says he uses CLR and next time I need to I'm going to try that.

 

[Mowerdoctor]

Maroon scuff pad and carnuba (not sure if I spelled that right) wax is what we use at work


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[visiting guest]

saw rust pix

 

[rrich1]

For protection on my table saw I use polyurethane m works great.

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[TMcCay]

I use a product called Slip-it. It has been around forever and developed for woodworking tools. Will not transfer to wood and ruin your finish. The only other thing I would use is the Johnsons paste wax. Do not use anything with silicone in it, it will transfer to your wood and ruin your finish.

 

[6PTsocket]

Maroon scuff pad and carnuba (not sure if I spelled that right) wax is what we use at work


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Doesn't matter. Many can't spell here, including me.

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[6PTsocket]

saw rust pix

Ouch!! Terrible thing to happen to a nice 66.

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[My Old Tools]

Johnsons Paste Wax on everything. It will make your old handsaw feel like it has a cord. Makes planes easier to use. Jointer tables, tablesaws, planer beds. If your little lunch box planer sticks the wood, wax the bed.

 

[TNBurban]

Avoid the rust. Just use an actual table!

 

[Dave Cav]

saw rust pix

Try steel wool or Skotchbrite pads and some kind of light lube like WD 40, ATF/Kerosene mixture, etc and scrub it off. If it's too heavy or stained, get a single edge razor blade scraper and the light lube (above) and it'll scrape off pretty easily. You'll probably need to change the razor blade several times, but it's the best way to get heavy rust off.

 

[Andy Griffith]

Thanks for the replies.

I've got the paste wax, wd40 and I think some of the maroon scotch-brite pads around here. Ordered one of those magnetic covers as well.

I'll start with that and see how it goes.