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Table saw safety tips

Ol'WhiteCap

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I've never used a table saw, and would appreciate any tips on how to use it (and keep my fingers). I've used saws in the past, skill saw and radial arm saw, and I've just acquired an older table saw.
I will be wanting to rip long boards and plywood. Do you have any helpful tips before I get started making sawdust?
 
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gungatim

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well, every woodworking book I have ever seen always starts out with a section on safety, so that's where I would start first.

I do a lot of woodworking but not going to give a 100% comprehensive list, but here's a few things NOT to do:

never freehand cut on a table saw.

make sure fence is properly aligned with the blade, pinching can give kickbacks - and don't stand directly behind the blade, stay off to the side just in case.

don't crosscut with the fence using the miter gage, it can pinch and trap the cut-off and shoot it out. (if you need the fence as a length stop, clamp a short piece to it that stops BEFORE the blade to eliminate the potential).

use sharp blades with proper tooth count and style for the type of cutting/material you are doing, don't force feed faster than the blade is designed to cut.

use the guards.

use push sticks, keep fingers away from the blade.

don't work when tired, carelessness causes most accidents.

I am sure others will have hundreds more....
 

turbowoodworker

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Tell us what specific TS you have so that we can know that you have a decent safe fence, miter gauge or sled, horsepower, etc.
 

turbowoodworker

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I strongly agree that you will get more comprehensive info on youtube and wood working mags than any of us have time to type.
 

LB-1911

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I've never used a table saw, and would appreciate any tips on how to use it (and keep my fingers). I've used saws in the past, skill saw and radial arm saw, and I've just acquired an older table saw.
I will be wanting to rip long boards and plywood. Do you have any helpful tips before I get started making sawdust?

Does this older table saw have an out-feed table / extension?

Cabinet saw or a portable?

:see:

turbowoodworker;5872721[B said:
]Tell us what specific TS you have so that we can know that you have a decent safe fence, miter gauge or sled, horsepower, etc.[/B]

I strongly agree that you will get more comprehensive info on youtube and wood working mags than any of us have time to type.



:thumbup:


posting picture thread link
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=169618
 
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Mark in Indiana

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Ol'

Welcome to the group.
If you have experience on safely using a radial arm saw, you are most of the way there.

I vote to watch some YouTube videos also. Many of them do a good job of showing the hazards.

The only thing I can add is:
* Only use a sharp blade. A dull one will bind up and shoot a piece of wood at you. Learned from experience. I keep a small stock of HF 10" blades. They're inexpensive and are fine for my woodworking needs.
* Unplug your table saw (use the locking switch if equipped) every time you walk away to where you're out of sight of it.
* Tell your family & friends/teach your kids: Don't bother the saw operator while he's working. I saw a guy get his hand beat up on a lathe by being distracted.
* When cutting full sheets of plywood or long boards, use stands to hold the ends that hang off the table or get a friend to help you.
 

Kin Creed

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I'm a newer user to a table saw and I'm just getting to know the limitations of the tool. It's such a versatile machine that I find myself pushing the limits some times and that's when the trouble can start.

Anything you do that can cause the stock to bind or grab against the blade is gonna go south before you have time to react. That's the issue as I see it, by the time you know there is a problem it's usually too late.

That said I am just finishing rebuilding some rotted window sills and using the table saw almost exclusively for ripping, cross cuts, bevels etc and I have felt pretty safe and the saw has performed really well.

For me a zero clearance throat plate has been nice for making small cuts. Cross cutting long stock with a flimsy miter gauge is probably the most sketchy thing I have done, need to either upgrade the gauge, build a cross cut sled or use a miter saw/circ saw to be safer.

When do doing finicky custom work like window sills some free hand cutting is almost unavoidable. But that's limited to nibbling away small pieces and such and as long as you have a feel for keeping the stock from binding/grabbing I think it's been relatively safe.

Stock support for long rips and cross cuts is also key, if you are half way through a cut and start wondering how the pieces are going to fall once it's complete that's not so good. Think ahead. It's a much more precise and powerful tool than a circ saw but also much less forgiving of poor technique.

Good luck with the saw, I wish I had learned how to use this tool a long time ago, it's been great and is one of the more satisfying tool purchases I have made in a long time.
 

aka Larry

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When cutting full sheets of plywood or long boards, use stands to hold the ends that hang off the table or get a friend to help you.

I'd say just don't do this altogether if it can be avoided. In my case, I built a fence for my skill saw and ripped the 4'x8' sheets on the floor into manageable pieces first.
 

TMcCay

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I picked this little tidbit up when I bought my first Woodworker saw blade. Include in all the care instructions was to align the front of the fence out (I don't remember the exact amount, I use 1/16") to help prevent binding, burning and kickback. I still have the old style fence on my saw that has individual locks for the front and back. I set the fence to the blade then lock the front down. I then measure to the edge of a miter slot to the fence at the front of the blade and add the 1/16" to the measurement when I lock the front of the fence down.
It works and I have not noticed any ill effects on the finished cut.
 

MoonRise

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Google "table saw safety".

Google found over 11 million hits in 0.42 seconds for me just now.

In no real particular order, some links regarding table saw safety :

http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/video/0,,20504307,00.html

http://www.woodcraft.com/articles/317/two-dozen-table-saw-safety-tips.aspx

http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/safety/tablesaw-safety

http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/9542/safety-manual-tablesaw

http://www.rfcsc.k12.in.us/cms/lib07/IN01000885/Centricity/Domain/105/Table_Saw_Safety_Rules.pdf

http://www.thesharpcut.com/safety-features/

http://www.kcma.org/Uploads/file/Table Saw Safety Tip Sheet Final.pdf

http://www.shopsmith.com/getting_started/table_saw_safety_rules.htm

https://amtrustgroup.com/AmTrust/me.../Loss Control Docs/TableSawInstructions-1.pdf

http://www.familyhandyman.com/tools/table-saws/how-to-use-a-table-saw-ripping-boards-safely/view-all

http://www.waterfront-woods.com/Articles/Tablesaw/tablesaw.htm

No free-hand cuts, use push sticks/blocks to help keep your hands and fingers away from the blade, no 'trapping' the workpiece between the miter gauge and the rip fence, use jigs or work holding fixtures (cross cut sled, etc), use featherboards to help hold workpieces down to the table and to the rip fence and keep pieces from kicking back, don't stand right behind (in line with) the blade, use a sharp blade of the appropriate type for the type of cut being done, no wearing gloves or long sleeves, wear eye and hearing protection, don't over reach, keep stable footing, support the workpiece properly (use outfeed tables as needed), make sure the saw is adjusted and 'tuned' well (rip fence parallel to the blade and 'stable', blade mounted properly, etc), hold or support the workpiece firmly (front to back, side to side, and also firmly down to the table!), concentrate on the task at hand and don't get or be distracted.

A 10" table saw blade spinning at 5000 rpm is moving at 149 mph (at the tooth tips). You can not 'react' fast enough if something starts to go wrong. So use the jigs and fixtures and workpiece hold downs and sleds and featherboards and so forth to not let things go 'wrong' (workpiece lifting off the table means imminent kickback, workpiece binding on the blade or twisting means kickback, kickback launches the workpiece or cut-off at blade speed and also can push or pull things into the blade in an instant, so keep hands away from the blade at least 4-6" and firmly holding onto or supported by something like the miter gauge or rip fence or cross sled or similar).

That should be a start.
 

Lassen Forge

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NEVER let your hand get near that blade until it's been dead stopped (and the saw's unplugged) for at least 5 seconds. Sounds ****, but it's a rule a woodshop teacher forced us to follow - so we wouldn't end up with a right hand (like his) with 2 fingers, or a left hand with 3.

NO LOOSE CLOTHES! like Neckties, sleeves, shirttails, loose coats, hoodie drawstrings, neckties, even your shop apron can grab in that spinner and get you to meet Mr. hi-speed Slicen-screamin up close and personal.

NO JEWELRY - while you shouldn't be wearing jewelry around power or industrial tools anyway, NO JEWELRY near the Amputat-o-matic.

TONS OF LIGHT! If you can't see what you're doing, you can't see what's going to get thrown at you by whirleyflinger. And have a remote way to shut everything down (I have a n anchored rope tied to the plug (which is overhead), and close enough to grab and unplug if need be.

Finally - SWEEP UP YOUR SAWDUST, and CLEAN OUT YOUR SAW WHEN DONE. Sawdust piled is both slippery and a fire hazard, and all it takes is one errant spark in the wrong place to catch your saw, and then your shop, and then your home, and then the neighbors home, and then the neighborhood, and the forest, and so forth and so on. Another rule from High School Shop - take the last 20-30 minutes of your work time to do nothing but clean up. It's not as fun as the project, but it's even less fun working in a messy, or filthy, or hazard-filled shop. Plus you catch problems (frayed belts, bad plugs, etc.) when you do this.

That's all I got... for now... :D
 

Mike F

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Long Island, NY
That's a good list of recommendations right there. I would juts like to stress the point that you should never get distracted from what you are doing.It's a recipe for potential disaster. Always push through the cut and never try to "back a piece out" halfway. Also, and I think it goes without saying but I'll say it anyway...Alcohol and power tools don't mix, ever!
 

ford33

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Feb 26, 2011
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Chicago, IL. USA
I don't cut plywood larger than 24 x 24 on a table saw. It is too difficult for me to handle safely. When I cut something the task has my full attention and I stop and think before every cut.

I cut plywood into smaller pieces using a circular saw and have the plywood on the floor on top of a piece of insulation foam board.
 
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cgrutt

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Some of these may have already been mentioned I try to stick to a few basics when running a table saw, in no particular order:

Set you fence slightly wide towards rear of blade (very slightly) to prevent binding

Try not to use a helper if possible - use an outfeed table or roller stands, etc. If you have to have a helper instruct them to just lightly support the workpiece and never lift or pull on it.

Avoid standing directly behind the workpiece between blade and fence.

Use a zero tolerance or sacrificial throat plate that leaves a minimal gap between table blade and table.

Try to set blade just high enough to cut work piece although sometimes you need to raise it higher for better cuts.

Always lower blade beneath table surface when you're finished with cut.

Use good, sharp blades and accessories (miter gauges, etc.)

Sometimes a piece of wood twists when cut. If this happens and it binds blade, it might help to put a wood shim in cut behind blade to prevent binding.

Use a good start stop switch - start should be designed to require a conscious effort and minimize chance of starting accidently. However, you should be able to stop saw easily such as bumping with leg/hip in event you need to keep hands on work piece until saw stops.

Probably going to catch a lot of heat for this one, but I tend to work without saw guards or rifing knifes when I use table saws - find they get in the way and cause more harm than good. Just for the record I tend to keep guards on almost every other power tool and I'm not recommending that anybody else removes any guards from their saw, just stating how I run mine.

Good luck and stay safe!
 

ilovevocs

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Rule #1: Don't put your finger where you wouldn't put your ****.



I'm glad I haven't tried to teach my boy to use s table saw yet. This will certainly be the first advice I give him!!!!

First rule of fight club........


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

rharman

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I haven't seen anyone mention a riving knife and blade guard. Riving knife can save your bacon.

Push sticks, feather boards, eye and ear protection too.
 

FullRaceMerc

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I'll throw some thoughts on the pile, but spending a little time with a careful woodworker to learn the basics is probably a better approach. Ask a friend, find an old woodworker in the neighborhood with 10 fingers, or take a class.

I have read that most serious woodshop injuries happen on the table saw. One theory was that every woodshop has one, so the odds make it more likely. The other theory was that since every woodworker spends a lot of time on a table saw, they become less cautious around the saw. Don't allow yourself to become lax as you grow comfortable with the saw.

If something seems unsafe, it probably is. Listen to that little voice inside. Find another way. Build a jig, use another type of saw, something. A common thing mentioned by injured woodworkers is that they thought "this isn't quite safe" before getting into trouble.

Never put any part of your body in line with the blade. Before or after the blade. Before the wood may have a soft section & feed unexpectedly quickly. I saw a guy do that. It left a perfect 1/8" kerf in the fatty part of his thumb. After the blade can **** you back into the blade in a kickback situation. I can't think of any situation where you should be reaching to the kerf at the back side of the blade.

Hook a couple of fingers over the fence as you push the board thru. So if the board is kicked back you are holding onto the fence instead of the board. It also gives you a consistent reference point for your hand to travel along.

Set the blade height just a little above the thickness of your material. Too low & the work wants to climb up the blade. But too high leaves a lot of exposed blade with nothing there to cut but you.

Use a push stick whenever you get under a certain width. I draw the line at 3-1/2", but that is where I am comfortable & feel I have a margin of error. Others will use a different width. I'm probably the widest of the guys I have worked with. I saw one boss almost get cut in half while free handing plywood corner braces. And another lead man who never got seriously hurt, but scared the rest of us with the things he did & how close his fingers would come to the blade. That guy eventually set up his own shop & bought one of those saw stop saws (Hot dog saw video). He has had the brake engage a couple of times. After only working with the old style table saws I can still count to ten with my shoes on. Good Lord willing that will continue. Buy or make a good push stick that you are comfortable with. I like a boot shaped push stick. It's different than most. But the force applied isn't towards the blade. The "heel" catches on the back of the board. The "toe" holds the board down a little ahead. The "ankle" handhold is above the blade.

A blade that should be cutting wood can become a drive wheel when lumber gets loose or jammed. Keep your work tight to the fence. Keep control of it.

Be aware of a "trapped arrow". That's a narrow piece of loose wood between the blade & the fence. It can come back with amazing force. I worked with a guy who was cutting lots of repetitive pieces. He was using a push stick, but got careless & didn't completely clear the blade with the material before lifting the push stick. He took it hard in the hip.

Wow. I guess it never ends. I could keep going. I still think getting some instruction from an experienced woodworker is a better plan.
 
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kbs2244

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It has been said more than once.
But is hard to remember if your experience is with an radial saw.

You are moving the stock into the blade not the blade into the wood.

Use push sticks!!
 

gahrajmahal

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I teach adult Ed. Carpentry class and table saw safety is one of my main lessons. We now have Saw Stop saws, but when the class goes home they won't have as nice of a set up. Everyone ahead of me has given rock solid advice, but if you haven't taught never seen a table saw novices before you don't realize how much information the average handy type has already picked up. You learn so much just from watching Saturday morning home improvement.

Cutting sheet stock into more manageable pieces before hand is great advise. NOTE where the FACTORY EDGE is and guide that against the fence to get the best cuts.

Make a test cut. Once the saw width is set, do not watch the blade. Watch the fence and guide the board first by hand, then when the edge of the board reaches the table, switch to the push stick. I usually saw with the blade to the left of the fence as this is where most of the table space is. Doing that, your left hand guides the board against the fence, or, holds a small push stick for the purpose. That left hand goes no further on the table than it can reach with your thumb hooked over the edge.

When ripping a long board down, like a 2 x 4, the narrower of the strips should not be between the blade and the fence. I find describing the stance as you would stand when shooting pool. This helps the new student feel the board running flat on the table. Once again, don't look at the blade, look at the fence. Left hand with thumb hooked on edge of table keeping it far away from the blade.
 

Weird Tolkienish Figure

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Ya' know, there's some dark humor online about shop teachers having missing fingers. And I thought about Mr. Miller, who was my 7th grade shop teacher and he was actually missing fingers! What is it with shop teachers and missing fingers?
 

Zeke

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Ya' know, there's some dark humor online about shop teachers having missing fingers. And I thought about Mr. Miller, who was my 7th grade shop teacher and he was actually missing fingers! What is it with shop teachers and missing fingers?

That's when they quit the trade and proceeded to teach it.

No. 1 rule on the TS for me is to not cut anything that you think might be a risk. However, the problem with that is that new users don't know those parameters. A quick Zeke guide:
  • No cuts wider than longer by a factor of 2 (2 times the length vs. width)
  • No cuts taller than 3X the width
  • No cuts when the portion against the fence is less wide than the waste (turn the work around)
  • There are a few more but those are the main 3
 

bob_mp

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Excellent advice given in the above posts.

I highly recommend reading "Tauton's Complete Illustrated Guide to Tablesaws," by Paul Anthony. It's a very good reference on how to safely use a tablesaw for all types of cuts. Equally important, it does a good job of building intuition about what's risky and why.
 

KMinAF

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Safety glasses or face shield no matter how short or quick the cut. Nothing worse than having to close your eyes halfway through the cut because a chip of wood hit you in the eye. ( I've never done this of course, only heard of it happening to the "other guy")
 

Fixed

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My grandfather gave me (I think) every piece of advice that has been extended here so far, when he gave me his TS.

I think the one that stuck with me the most is to respect it.

I've got a fair number of grinders, circular saws, miter saws, etc, and the only one that I would say I still have some fear of is the table saw.

It'll take half your hand off and not even slow down if you aren't careful. But if you respect it and approach it in a safe way it's just an incredibly useful tool.
 

Marctrees

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I picked this little tidbit up when I bought my first Woodworker saw blade. Include in all the care instructions was to align the front of the fence out (I don't remember the exact amount, I use 1/16") to help prevent binding, burning and kickback. I still have the old style fence on my saw that has individual locks for the front and back. I set the fence to the blade then lock the front down. I then measure to the edge of a miter slot to the fence at the front of the blade and add the 1/16" to the measurement when I lock the front of the fence down.
It works and I have not noticed any ill effects on the finished cut.

I know some do this.

BUT 1/16 seems wayy too much to me.

That would extrapolate to 1/8 to 3/16 along the fence length.

I would think target difference closer to like 1/32 max.

Interesting to note - Biesemeyer manual says perfectly parallel.

But for damn sure, at the other extreme of NO theoretical gap, and least FOR SURE not closer to the blade than the infeed side.

Just my thoughts and experience. Marc
 
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Marctrees

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well, every woodworking book I have ever seen always starts out with a section on safety, so that's where I would start first.

I do a lot of woodworking but not going to give a 100% comprehensive list, but here's a few things NOT to do:

never freehand cut on a table saw.

make sure fence is properly aligned with the blade, pinching can give kickbacks - and don't stand directly behind the blade, stay off to the side just in case.

don't crosscut with the fence using the miter gage, it can pinch and trap the cut-off and shoot it out. (if you need the fence as a length stop, clamp a short piece to it that stops BEFORE the blade to eliminate the potential).

use sharp blades with proper tooth count and style for the type of cutting/material you are doing, don't force feed faster than the blade is designed to cut.

use the guards.

use push sticks, keep fingers away from the blade.

don't work when tired, carelessness causes most accidents.

I am sure others will have hundreds more....


Very good list.

VERY important points.

Never forget them, or you will be quickly reminded.

Just add to the above the neccessity of a riving knife, somekida splitter.

Observing all above will eliminate like 95% of accidents.

Marc

OH... And Re: the beer post.

I suggest finishing the beer totally before cutting.

No worries about sawdust in it then. :beer:
 
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