Notgrownup
Well-known member
Whatever you do , get a very good quality blade, it makes the saw a bit better.
Table saw suggestions
- Thread starter mds5951
- Start date
+1
Using a good (and appropriate for the application) blade makes a huge difference. Should plan on a decent rip blade in addition to several crosscut blades for solid wood and laminates.
Another thing to seek is a belt drive employing a flat multi-v belt (like serpentine belts). Those belts run far smoother than standard v-belts, and transmit more power than those hokey link belts. Some of the Ridgid saws have them, or you can sometimes find retrofit kits like I added to a CM saw at work.
Mark in Indiana
Well-known member
I use an older 10", Craftsman 100 contractor saw for everything from cutting, dado and shaping. It's heavy and has a cast iron table.
With the dado & shaping blades, you can buy or make throat plates with different size slots for different size blades.
With the dado & shaping blades, you can buy or make throat plates with different size slots for different size blades.
This. I love my former cabinet maker Jet table saw. Very stable, excellent machine.
Last thing you want in a table saw is something wobbly.
jgromada
Well-known member
I have an older Rockwell saw. Just that statement there dates it pretty well. It is heavy and pretty solid. The fence is just ok. My biggest complaint is that it is a 9 in saw which is not a real common size. I did find some NOS fine cutting blade(s).
But for most of the projects i am doing I get more use out of my sheet cutting table constructed from saw horses and a folding sheet frame. I also have a Veritas power tool cutting guide. http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=41707&cat=1,240,45313&ap=1 Great for breaking down sheets
But for most of the projects i am doing I get more use out of my sheet cutting table constructed from saw horses and a folding sheet frame. I also have a Veritas power tool cutting guide. http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=41707&cat=1,240,45313&ap=1 Great for breaking down sheets
I have a mid 80’s vintage Delta “Contractors Saw” which has the basic cast iron guts of the Unisaw. It has a 2hp America. Made motor which likes 220v. It is one owner and in very good shape. When I wanted to sell it a couple years back, I had no interest in it at $275. I figured it is actually worth more than that to me and kept it. I don’t be woodwork.
The trunnion assembly ("guts") on a Unisaw is MUCH different from the Contractor saw. On a Unisaw, it is supported by the cabinet, and the top also bolts to the cabinet--they are not connected. Contractor saw has a trunnion assy hanging onto the top casting like most homeowner Craftsman/Ridgid saws. Unisaw employs 3 belts while I've rarely seen more than one belt on a Contractor saw. $275 for a 80's Delta Contractor saw with standard "Jet" fence would be a very fair offer IMHO.
This is the only GJ thread that comes up when searching "Powermatic 64B". Does anyone have this saw? I saw a review of the Delta 36-725 after 3 years of use and the table had warped into a bowl shape. Couldn't get square cuts on both sides of blade and front to back, it was .35 lower at the blade than edges. I'm thinking it might just be what a table mounted trunion does on modern **** cast iron. I'd hate to spend $2k+ and end up with a warped table. At least the Powermatic has a 5 year warranty and a decent network of service centers. Delta doesn't even publish their network. Any input on all this? TIA
Ton ton
Well-known member
My family runs a 10" Makita. Piece of junk. The motor is weak. Just get something better.
I have been using a compact Jobsite saw from Skilsaw and an Osborne miter gauge. The two together make for accurate cutting. The DC is excellent. I just need a larger table; especially in front of the blade. I just don't want to take a step backward in precision as it seems the Delta 36-xxxx series could be; especially wrt the motor problems and warped table. So I am interested in more about the Powermatic 64B. TIA
ez-duzit
Well-known member
W--the warranty you will never use. Just buy a used Unisaw or PM in excellent condition.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
You do know that powermatics/jet are made for them in a factory in Taiwan now? They are not the powermatics made in the usa of old.
That being said they are still decent products but at the 2700 dollars they want for one is insane. Just profiting of the name of old.
While I would still get an older Unisaw or powermatic 66, the Taiwanese made grizzly 1023 is a decent cabinet saw(better than a contractor powermatic) for less money. Hell you could get a 1023 with a cast iron router wing and still have 400-500 dollars left over.
ez-duzit
Well-known member
Actually I would avoid the Grizzly saw. A used PM or Unisaw is vastly superior.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
I don't disagree, seems like he is wanting new.
Why avoid the Grizzly?
----
There are really just a few options that make sense when looking at table saws, all of which are based around intended use and budget.
jobsite saw- Dewalt w/ rack n pinion or similar (corded 10" is getting very hard to find?!)
contractor saw- Sawstop- better quality then just about anything else, oh feature finger saver
cabinet saw-
USED- good luck, a nice PM or Uni would be sweet
NEW- Grizzly is as good or better then anything Delta/Jet/PM/etc.. are pumping out at a better price OR a Sawstop
or jump into the big boy leagues and you now have sliding saws, euro brands, etc..
ez-duzit
Well-known member
Because it is so far beneath the used PM and Uni.
Thanks all. You are correct, Grizzly and Shop Fox not an option. I've been watching CL and Offer up but only a tired PM 66 listed a year ago. In looking at the details, the PM is indeed nothing special. For less dollars, the Jet 725000K trunnion is cabinet mounted. So the PM is out. Also looking at the Laguna F2 which is full sized cabinet with trunnion on cabinet, cast extensions and 1.75hp that can be upgraded to 220v. Downside is the fence rail is aluminum. It's always something. 
ez-duzit
Well-known member
You're not even trying.