Table saw vs circular saw + straight edge

[FastKat]

I need to make some long 8' plywood cuts for a cabinet installation project. I am cutting 3/4" plywood to make a toe kick base for the cabinets that I have. If things go well I might make some shelves as well.

I don't have a table saw so I am considering putting the plywood on horses and using a circular saw with a straight edge (like a piece of steel flat) clamped to the wood and letting the steel flat bar guide the guide plate on the circular saw. I imagine I'll need someone to support the cut piece as I make the cut. Is this comparable to cutting with a table saw? Is there a downside to this method or something I have not considered?

 

[Hot Rod Grampa]

The torque of the saw can steer it, and while you can counter it, it will not be as straight as the line. Kregs has a saw guide that looks good. Have only seen the commercials. Or, Buy the plywood from a box store and let them make the cuts on their panel saw?

 

[McFarmer]

I made mine. An long piece of 3/4 ply about 8 inches wide with a vertical piece on top of it, dadoed in and glued.

Then run the circular saw along the vertical fence and cut the extra off. You now have a fence that you can put the edge right on your line. Have the good edge of your plywood down so the blade cuts up into it.

Clamp on the off side of the fence.

 

[johnnyradiant]

For just the kick that would likely work because the edge against the floor I'm guessing will be caulked and the top edge would only be seen when you are on your knees. As for shelves likely you'd only be able to hope for utility grade at best. If you have a router make a slightly oversized cut as you proposed and then setup the router and straight edge and trim your edges to width. A lot of my cabinets had the toekick finished by applying 1/4" hardboard or p lam. By using 3/4 I am guessing your using it for your structure and finish all in one. Sometimes that can pose a bit of a problem getting a level cab and dealing with a not quite flat and or level floor. Depending on the plywood you might be able to run it through a jointer and recover your edge that way but without a table saw I can't imagine you have a jointer. If you did I would be tempted to set the jointer 1-2° off square - taking a little more off the backside, for a better chance of a crisp line on the face.

 

[tarbellb]

You can get excellent straight, long, cuts from sheet goods with a very simple DIY guide.

Basically two pieces, sandwiched, gives a "zero" line every time.

https://www.familyhandyman.com/tools/saws/two-essential-saw-cutting-guides/view-all/

As for a support, if you are cutting enough pieces its worth buying a sheet of insulation foam (3/4"+) and laying it on the ground or large work surface.

2x4's laying underneath is another option, just a little trickier.

 

[MarkG]

Been doing it this way for years in my sign shop! Besides not having to maneuver full 4 x 8 sheets through your table saw, a big benefit is being able to cut a long, perfectly straight angled cut as well. (not beveled----just cut at an angle)

The precision of a guide like this relies a lot on how straight you make your guide edge, so do it carefully! But once you make that initial cut, you will always know precisely where your cut will be, as long as you use the same saw and blade you made your initial cut-off of the guide with!

 

[theoldwizard1]

To make cross cuts you will need 4 sawhorses. Also attach a sacrificial 2x4 to the top of the sawhorse you that the saw can nick it without concern.

4x8 sheets are very difficult to deal with single handed. Consider paying the cut charge to get then broken down into more manageable sizes that are still suitable for the job.

 

[Richard Cranium]

most box stores will not rip a sheet of ply wood in two, They will make cuts, just will not rip them.

 

[rlitman]

most box stores will not rip a sheet of ply wood in two, They will make cuts, just will not rip them.

First off, you don't rip ply, but I do understand what you meant.
Second, I've been to plenty of box stores that refused to cut ply, but if they have someone cutting, I have never had a problem having them turn the saw sideways.

However, box store panel saws do not make quality square cuts on ply. I ALWAYS get my sheets cut with at least an inch of edge for me to cut off later.

As for handling sheets on a tablesaw, that's crazy unless you have an 8' sliding saw. The circular saw against a straight edge method will always give straighter cuts if you're careful about how you do it, and have a good straightedge. It won't plunge like a track saw, but the end results for a few cuts will be close enough.

 

[Git]

I don't care what anyone says, I have done the 'straight edge' method with an aluminum guide for years and it just doesn't really work out - at least it did not for me. It would always seem the blade would drift a little away from the guide for some reason, especially over longer cuts. I even had a special saw that I used - the classic Porter Cable 314 that used a 4 1/2" blade.

If you can, step up to a real track saw - something like the Makita. If you can't then you will have to make do with what you have

I use a pair of sawhorses - Stanley Fat Max, that has a couple of notches that will hold a 2x4 on its edge. I use them with my 'cutting table' - just some 2x4's that are notched so they fit together yet come apart pretty easy for storage and they don't take up a lot of room. (I use a real track saw now and the difference is like night and day)

This is what it looks like broken down (no fasteners are used) Two long 'main' supports and 5 cross pieces

 

[njhoudini]

My local Lowes will do multiple cuts of plywood for free. Any direction, any dimensions. The local Home Depot has a bitter man working in lumber and he seems to intentionally run the blade across your wood twice just to add extra chip out to both sides. YMMV.

I like the clamped 2x4's idea since it is going to give you more of a surface to push your circular saw against. If you have enough clamps, you can clamp the plywood to your horses, but I would think any table, even folding, might be sturdier. A desk would also probably suffice.

 

[rlitman]

I don't care what anyone says, I have done the 'straight edge' method with an aluminum guide for years and it just doesn't really work out - at least it did not for me. It would always seem the blade would drift a little away from the guide for some reason, especially over longer cuts...

I've seen many cheap aluminum circular saw guides, and never liked a one. The ones that can be put together aren't stiff enough at the joint. The ones that work like a long clamp (the HF type) don't have enough clamping force to keep from moving.

And they all have too much flex to really keep the saw on track for much more than a 3' span. The HF style is only ok for a 2' long cut, IF you clamp it down on both ends. Otherwise, if you use enough force to ensure that the saw stays on track, the guide either flexes or moves.

I have several straightedges I like. One that I have a two of is a pair of antique wooden wallpaper straightedges with metal edges. For whatever reason, the mahogany is stiffer than any cheap aluminum track I've seen, and holds up to 4' spans well. Then, I've got a steel formed bed rail that's just under 7' long, that I use for 6' cuts. I don't recall the last time I needed a sheet cut longer than that that I had to do myself.

 

[Git]

I think you summed it up pretty well

 

[Cooter Brown]

Remember that if you use the straightedge/circular saw method to put the good side of the plywood down instead of up as you would with a table saw.

In both cases this means that the the leading edge of the saw blade is making a down cut thru the good side of the veneer. You'll get a much cleaner cut this way.

 

[theoldwizard1]

However, box store panel saws do not make quality square cuts on ply. I ALWAYS get my sheets cut with at least an inch of edge for me to cut off later.

Concur !

 

[theoldwizard1]

Breakdown 4x8 panels, up to 3/4" think, is where "small" (< 7") battery operated circular saws really shine. Just make sure you have a GOOD carbide tipped blade.

 

[ilovevocs]

For a few cuts farm it out.

If not watch YouTube and setup your home woodworking shop in lieu of spending your money on women and whisky.

 

[marineman]

$40, order a Kreg rip cut, you will never look at sheet goods the same way again.

 

[southalabama]

I'm a fan of kreg. When I win the lottery I'll buy a festool

 

[sreeb]

After trying the straight edge and circular saw approach and screwing up two $80 sheets of veneer plywood, I decided that a track saw wasn't really that expensive...

 

[ford33]

Lay the panel on a sheet of 1" thick foam insulation on the floor and cut it. Using a straight edge and kneeling on the sheet will give you greater control of the cut. However, you will not get a very straight cut unless you have excellent eye hand coordination.

Depending upon how accurate you need the edge, an investment in an 8 foot clamp guide or cutting the panel into shorter lengths may be more appropriate.

Do you know anyone with a quality table saw who will cut 4 foot long pieces?

 

[bigguns69]

Before I got a good dewalt table saw I would free hand cut to a line and then use a belt sander to get perfect.

 

[nutjob]

https://www.finehomebuilding.com/2018/05/11/break-plywood-track-saw

https://www.finehomebuilding.com/2018/05/08/need-track-saw

Need to be a member to read online but basically the guy stopped using the table saw and is now using the track saw for all plywood cuts

Kevin

 

[BMW Rider]

With care and a good straight edge it is possible to get smooth accurate cuts with a circular saw. The one thing no one has mentioned yet is that you need to be sure to use a high quality fine tooth blade. If you use the typical circular saw blade, you will never get smooth chip free cuts.

 

[SlappyWhite]

I won't have the "store" do any finish cuts any more, way too often the blade is dull and you end up with way too much chipping. Same experience big box and speciality.

I have used the straight edge with really good success. I have a jig and a dedicated circular saw set up for the jig. Never had any issues as long as I take the time to set it up properly.

Also have a table saw, running large sheets through it is a challenge. Usually takes two people to do it well.

It will depend on how many pieces I need to cut and what I am cutting, no difference as far as outcome with either method for me.

I have dedicated blades for each purpose for the table saw and circular saw, this is very important (right blade for the job).

 

[mike93lx]

To make cross cuts you will need 4 sawhorses. Also attach a sacrificial 2x4 to the top of the sawhorse you that the saw can nick it without concern.

4x8 sheets are very difficult to deal with single handed. Consider paying the cut charge to get then broken down into more manageable sizes that are still suitable for the job.

So much easier to just use a sheet of insulation board and cut it on the ground

 

[bradw100]

I've had good success with an inexpensive 2-piece aluminum straight edge and a circular saw. I've found that the straight edge (fence) will deflect at the joint when you place pressure against it at the middle of the cut. The work-around is to clamp a scrap board at 90 degrees to the joint on the edge of the fence that you're not running the saw against. This eliminates the deflection.

I've also gotten good results cutting multiple sheets at once when possible. I've cut a lot of 3/4" melamine covered particle board two sheets at a time. The advantage is that the bottom sheet will have little to no chipping. If you're cutting something like 3/4" veneered baltic birch your saw may not have the power to cut two sheets at once.

 

[aka Larry]

I built one rip and cross-cut sized fence using the Family handyman example as shown earlier in this thread. I laid my 4'x8' sheet goods over a sheet of 1" rigid foam insulation and started cutting. This method is much easier (IMO) than using saw horses because the entire sheet, both sides of the cut, is supported throughout the process. The only part that ***** is being down on your knees making the cuts, but it doesn't take that long.

 

[rlitman]

I built one rip and cross-cut sized fence using the Family handyman example as shown earlier in this thread. I laid my 4'x8' sheet goods over a sheet of 1" rigid foam insulation and started cutting. This method is much easier (IMO) than using saw horses because the entire sheet, both sides of the cut, is supported throughout the process. The only part that ***** is being down on your knees making the cuts, but it doesn't take that long.

I really need to try that foam idea one day.

The saw horse lack of support is why I use my patio table most times. With a long sheet, as the sheet wants to sag between supports, the saw plate can slip under the straight edge, with disastrous results. The patio table works to prevent the sag, but you need to pay close attention to the blade path.

 

[FastKat]

Thanks for the comments guys. There is way more information than I asked for... and I am very thankful for that. Lots of useful tips and ideas for me to try... too many for me to reply to each as pretty much every post has something to offer.

 

[Weird Tolkienish Figure]

Yeah I had a saw guard I bought from HF, didn't work too well. If your wood is at all bowed it doesn't work well. I definitely will be buying that Kreg saw guide. Gets great reviews on Amazon.

 

[aka Larry]

Yeah I had a saw guard I bought from HF, didn't work too well. If your wood is at all bowed it doesn't work well.

I bought the Lowes version and it didn't well either due to lack of clamping force.

I have tool envy when I watch Tom Silva use his Festool track saw on "Ask This Old House", but I don't do nearly enough wood working to justify that kind of coin.

 

[royce]

Something I think that needs mentioned is the plate on the skill saw needs to be parallel with the saw blade for cutting against a straight edge, other wise it is either walking into or away from the straight edge.
Same as a table saw and fence.
Worm drives are particularly sloppy but can be moved to parallel.

Royce

 

[gahrajmahal]

I have a good table saw, a home made clamp on straight Edge and a Kreig edge guide for your circular saw. The first work great if your plywood is flat, but if you are cutting something thin or lower grade that is wavy like a potato chip, the Kreig edge guide is the tool to use. I also always cut on a table with a flat sacrificial surface so your sheet will be supported when cutting. I find it is helpful to clamp your sheet your cutting so it doesn't move when using the saw guide. To get your cut straight you need to apply some pressure perpendicular to the edge as well as drive the saw down the board when making the cut.

 

[Finky198]

We have 3 table saws and I stiill prefer my 6ft level and my worm drive and I can get very accurate results. But when tight tolerance are really necessary a table saw is the best method... regardless of the method measure twice and cut ones and most importantly take your time.

 

[Firebrick43]

I have the dewalt tracksaw and have tried other methods but still use the track saw no matter what to break down sheet goods.

I use a sacrificial foam sheet on the ground most of the time as mentioned by others. Doing this with a real tracksaw gets you a near glue quality cut on the money as well. I can do a better job with this set up than any contractors saw.

Now that I own a unisaw (with a ridge carbide 40t and zero clearance insert) I still cut the first edge of a panel with the tracksaw reducing panels to manageable sizes and then cut the factory edge off with the unisaw. The blade on the Uni gives a slight better cut but the tracksaw is very good and it's a factory blade.

Two things not mentioned by others. A tracksaw used with foam and a vacuum get dust free cuts. In some places this is nessessary in others a nice convenience.

Second, many things in a house are not square, many way off. This results in needing to fit the panel to the size needed. Cutting a taper on a long panel can be difficult to impossible on a table saw. Easy with a track saw.

 

[FastKat]

You guys are really making me want to buy at track saw but I just can't justify the high price! I need to make some 8' cuts and all of the ones in that length are big bucks.

 

[Muttly]

I own a unisaw with a an 84" unifence, if i am making an 8 foot cut in 3/4" plywood, the I will rip it down to manageable size on sawhorses with plenty of 2x4's laid flat on top of the horses to support both sides of the cut and/or sacrificial osb, foam or other substrate. With a simple straight edge fence I get table saw quality cuts. the key is a good thin tooth carbide blade and a 15 amp saw with a heavy base. I use this saw:

 

[MarkG]

I'd put the method and jig I describe up against any high-dollar 'trac saw' any day! Easier to use besides! If it doesn't work flawlessly for you, you either have a poorly set up saw, or an improperly built guide! I've been cutting sign panels effortlessly and perfectly using this shop built guide for years.

Good luck with whatever you decide.

 

[theoldwizard1]

https://www.finehomebuilding.com/2018/05/11/break-plywood-track-saw

Interesting ! This guys says he never trusts factory edges and always cuts 2 new edges (he uses a cool looking 3-4-5 triangle).

Now the odd thing is, framer ALWAYS TRUST factory edges when installing full sheets (4'x8') like floors or roof decking. If the area does not come out square, it is likely someone screwed up the framing underneath !