Table saw vs circular saw + straight edge

[theoldwizard1]

Anyone ever use a Eurekazone Smart Saw Base with their track system ?

A whole lot cheaper than the Festool track saw !

 

[Gummi Bear]

I was in college before I used a table saw with any regularity. I worked in a cabinet shop to pay my way through. It had a nice long fence, and a huge table, so one man could use it safely. My boss was big on making things work smoothly and getting repeatable results.

The one I own now is much more basic, and suits my needs fine.

When I was a kid, Dad made a “chute board”

It was a piece of lauan, with another piece glued and stapled to it. We would make our mark at each end of a sheet of plywood, clamp it down, and run the circular saw along it.

It worked great for about 25 years. It finally dried out and cracked in two when I went to use it a few years back, I was sad to see it go. I really should make another, but haven’t had a big wood work project to justify building one.



I went to the woods because I wished to live deliberately...

Henry David Thoreau

 

[rlitman]

Interesting ! This guys says he never trusts factory edges and always cuts 2 new edges (he uses a cool looking 3-4-5 triangle).

Now the odd thing is, framer ALWAYS TRUST factory edges when installing full sheets (4'x8') like floors or roof decking. If the area does not come out square, it is likely someone screwed up the framing underneath !

Framing and cabinetmaking are worlds apart when it comes to tolerances.

 

[MarkG]

I really need to try that foam idea one day.

The saw horse lack of support is why I use my patio table most times. With a long sheet, as the sheet wants to sag between supports, the saw plate can slip under the straight edge, with disastrous results. The patio table works to prevent the sag, but you need to pay close attention to the blade path.

This is another good reason to use the jig I previously described----it's impossible for the saw to do that with this design, besides the other benefits I've described. I suspect that many old sign painters know this 'trick'. Straight is straight-----no one will tell that it wasn't cut with a million dollar 'Festool'.

 

[Git]

Interesting ! This guys says he never trusts factory edges and always cuts 2 new edges (he uses a cool looking 3-4-5 triangle).

I have that triangle - but I never felt it was accurate enough. I mean it's great for framing, but there is a little slop in it due to the way it fits together, for really accurate work.

For me, one of the main advantages of a track saw (other than a really straight cut) is the splinter guard. The splinter guard is an adhesive backed, rubbery material that is attached to the edge of your track. The saw blade cuts through the guard the first time you use it so you know exactly where the blade is going to cut. You make a couple of marks on your plywood, line up the edge of the splinter guard and you can guarantee a straight cut on those lines. (and it helps prevent splitters because the blade is coming up through the wood and guard on top of the wood helps keep things in place)

 

[mike93lx]

Interesting ! This guys says he never trusts factory edges and always cuts 2 new edges (he uses a cool looking 3-4-5 triangle).

Now the odd thing is, framer ALWAYS TRUST factory edges when installing full sheets (4'x8') like floors or roof decking. If the area does not come out square, it is likely someone screwed up the framing underneath !

Framing and building furniture are very different. The factory edge is also often a little beat up and a nice clean edge will look nicer. Not a problem for a subfloor or roof deck

 

[Farrier]

OP, I cut like that all the time and have good success. I have a very nice Delta table saw but I don't have the table extensions to support and safely cut 4x8 sheets.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Framing and cabinetmaking are worlds apart when it comes to tolerances.

If you have a large area covered by 4x8 sheets of plywood, even 1/8" out of spec will add up and you will be short/long at the end.

 

[rlitman]

If you have a large area covered by 4x8 sheets of plywood, even 1/8" out of spec will add up and you will be short/long at the end.

Framing requires gaps between the sheets. Plus odds are more likely that random errors cancel than add.

 

[tarbellb]

Framing and furniture are worlds apart. You dont see many dovetails in framing...

Ive seen both trades do amazing work with their intended materials and goals, but a sheet of ply is considered rough dims in furniture.

 

[2Big2Ride]

I don't care what anyone says, I have done the 'straight edge' method with an aluminum guide for years and it just doesn't really work out - at least it did not for me. It would always seem the blade would drift a little away from the guide for some reason, especially over longer cuts. I even had a special saw that I used - the classic Porter Cable 314 that used a 4 1/2" blade.

If you can, step up to a real track saw - something like the Makita. If you can't then you will have to make do with what you have

I use a pair of sawhorses - Stanley Fat Max, that has a couple of notches that will hold a 2x4 on its edge. I use them with my 'cutting table' - just some 2x4's that are notched so they fit together yet come apart pretty easy for storage and they don't take up a lot of room. (I use a real track saw now and the difference is like night and day)

This is what it looks like broken down (no fasteners are used) Two long 'main' supports and 5 cross pieces

Thank you for the cutting table idea. Threw one together today and it worked great.

 

[BWS]

Cutting sheetgoods;

Straight edge method for onsite precision.

Table saws,to include beam and sliders for masochist's.

XY verticle panel saws(Streibig) for professionals.

Built our panel saw,FINALLY.... about 10 years ago.We have a small army of tablesaws to include a mid stroke slider and a 14/16" as a big boy.Screw a TS for busting down sheets of plywood!Now we park'm on the vert,which is WAY more adjustable for precision than a slider BTW(it's a gravity thing).... cut,then off to a TS.The part that was the most enlightening was the almost ZERO floor space the vert panelsaw takes up. Don't want to give away too many details but,if you have a decent floor to about 8' high storage unit,then you have the beginnings to a panel saw. I will never be without one,they are that fast/accurate.

 

[lilscorpion]

The part that was the most enlightening was the almost ZERO floor space the vert panelsaw takes up.

I’d build one if I had the wall space. What I like about them is you never have to “flip up sheets” to cut one. They can all stay on end.

 

[tapered-pin]

The part that was the most enlightening was the almost ZERO floor space the vert panelsaw takes up.

in every shop i've ever had, wall space was at a premium, not necesarily floor space.


I love the festool fanboys when they chime in with their "go buy a circular saw that cost more than your table saw" answers.

OP, just make a saw guide as several others have suggested. I have one that is a piece of 1X3 oak, glued/screwed to a 12" wide piece of HDF. it cost me less than $20 and I've used it for almost 10 years now..

 

[03protege]

I made mine. An long piece of 3/4 ply about 8 inches wide with a vertical piece on top of it, dadoed in and glued.

Then run the circular saw along the vertical fence and cut the extra off. You now have a fence that you can put the edge right on your line. Have the good edge of your plywood down so the blade cuts up into it.

Clamp on the off side of the fence.

You can get excellent straight, long, cuts from sheet goods with a very simple DIY guide.

Basically two pieces, sandwiched, gives a "zero" line every time.

https://www.familyhandyman.com/tools/saws/two-essential-saw-cutting-guides/view-all/

As for a support, if you are cutting enough pieces its worth buying a sheet of insulation foam (3/4"+) and laying it on the ground or large work surface.

2x4's laying underneath is another option, just a little trickier.

Best way for nice straight cuts on a budget. It's important to use good straight stock for the "upper" part the saw rides up against.

 

[lilscorpion]

I love the festool fanboys when they chime in with their "go buy a circular saw that cost more than your table saw" answers.

Now-a-days there are many track saw options. Dewalt, triton, makita, and a bunch of the “off brands” (wen, shop fox, grizzly, etc). All of them are cheaper than the Festool track saws however I have zero experience with anything other than the Festool ones. If all of the options out there were available when I was in the market I might not have bought a Festool.

If your table saw costs less than my track saw, and my table saw costs 3x my track saw, then clearly we’re talking about two very different table saws. [emoji4]

OP - to answer your question directly - using a straight edge works well maybe even better than a table saw. For years I used a 9’ piece of angle iron I had as a fence and cut many sheets of plywood that way. The biggest issue I recall was supporting the to be cut material over the whole sheet when cutting with saw horses. If you don’t, the sheet saga in the middle and the straight edge won’t be sitting flush in the material which makes it impossible to get the saw to ride along it the whole way. As a result, I‘d screw a few 8’ 2x4’s perpendicular to my horses when I needed to cut so the sheet would be supported. Worked very well.

 

[Lelandwelds]

I just use a piece 2 X 3 square tubing or larger with a skill saw. A track saw would be nice and save a lot of clamping. A bit of help and a huge out feed table works just fine with a tablesaw.

I do use a sheet of rigid insulation with my jigsaw.

 

[tapered-pin]

If your table saw costs less than my track saw, and my table saw costs 3x my track saw, then clearly we’re talking about two very different table saws. [emoji4]

Looks like you've got a history of spending more money than you need to.

well..

*than needs to be spent..
(maybe you DO need to spend that much to yield the same results others can do spending far less.)

 

[k-os]

$40, order a Kreg rip cut, you will never look at sheet goods the same way again.

I used a Kreg Rip Cut with my Dewalt saw to cut all the panels for my headboard project. It worked really well. Would I have preferred a table saw? Only if I had a big outfeed table on it as well!

 

[royce]

There is more than a few ways to skin a cat.
I bought a Mafell track saw a few years back, mostly because of allergies.
The Mafell has great dust collection and is superbly engineered.
By the time a added the price and accessories,I could have bought a good used table saw, which I already have a Powermatic 66, a 16" Oliver and a 10" Delta contractor saw.
Yes, I could have kept cutting with a straight edge and not spent a penny, but the dust control, convenience and precision makes me smile every time I use it.
I have never regretted the purchase.
Now then, I just stumbled onto a GMC Panel saw and purchased it for less than the Mafell track saw.
4HP, 6'-2"V x 10'-5"H x 2" capacity, Italian made.
It was purchased by Conoco and was never assembled, then surplused.
I bought it thinking there may be a chance to make a little money.
By the time I got it home, assembled and test drove, I fell in love with it.
It has fantastic dust collection, precision, repeatability and convenience.
In the end, I think everybody can do whatever works best for them.

Royce

 

[tarbellb]

Dang royce, I shouldve know you had some Mafell in your collection. And that panel saw looks like some oil money well spent

The real beauty to a DIY track or track saw (ie Festool, Makita, etc... ) is the ability to lay the track on the actual cut line.

I also for years used a nice piece of extruded aluminum for my fence, but measuring off the 2.5" inches every time is another step to slow you down and potential inaccuracies (+account for blade kerf, fence deflections, ect..)

There is a reason a dozen companies are making plunge style track saw, they are excellent for certain jobs, one of them is breaking down sheet goods, period.

I stand by my foam board and DIY track method on budget, I think the 2x4 platform posted is genius for anybody doing repetitive cuts, and a track saw or panel saw the cat meeeeeow.

 

[royce]

Tarbellb,
While I would not think twice about buying more Mafell, other than cost, the only other tool I have of theirs is a jig saw and boy is it choice.
The Mafell tools are sure enough ritzy, but dang they are fine.
A couple other things about a track saw is the scoring feature, which eliminates any splintering and the plunging feature that allows starting a cut anywhere along a board, with out any worry of staying on line or kick back.
The Mafell even has a gauge that shows the start and stop of a cut at any depth.
There ain't much that can't be built with a axe,draw knife,bench plane and a set of chisels, but I choose to invest in tools that make it easier on me, helping me be more productive, successful and satisfied.
I've worked for contractors that would eat their own children, before spending $100 on a tool and I never understood it.

Royce

 

[tarbellb]

royce,
All very good points. Thats why I have a Makita plunge saw. Love it.

As for money spent on tools, there has got to be a healthy middle ground, but we are not likely to find it on this site

 

[Weird Tolkienish Figure]

Next time I need a straight cut of plywood I'm getting this on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073PFYN4T/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Gets good reviews. Biggest complain is that it's a tad flimsy (which may explain the price).

 

[stioc]

^ I have the Kreg saw guide. It's OK, I guess I don't have the technique down because at the end of the cut as the edge-guide is mostly off the plywood it drifts pretty easily. Their Accu-cut track https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073PGP96S/?tag=atomicindus08-20 sounds better.

However, the easiest and pain-free method of breaking down the plywood for me is the good ole home-made fence I made out of MDF several years ago (same as the one pictured above in the Handyman link). After that my Ryobi BT3100 table saw does the rest of the work. For bevel, angle, Dado etc I don't see myself ever getting by without a table saw and I'm not even really into woodworking all that much.