table saw vs track saw for DIY

[mslim]

I've been mucking about using aluminum bar stock and semi-straight 1x2's for circular saw guides when cutting plywood and pegboard. The results have been less than satisfactory.

MY most likely application would be long rips for shelves and light to medium weight plywood for crate and storage box panels.

I've been on the lookout for a used Bosch 4100 saw w/ the cool folding stand on Craigslist but I haven't found one in my $400 price range. Lately I've been seeing reviews on track saws. The Festool is the king but way out of my price bracket. The Makita looks good and Dewalt makes one too. I could buy the Makita with the 55" guide but the long guide (100+ inches) is another $210 bucks!

I realized that Bosch would probably need some add-on extension arms to handle 4x8' sheets accurately. I don't have any experience with track saws so I thought I'd post here for some sage advice.

 

[guy48065]

The answer depends on how much sheet goods you break down.
I have a Unisaw with rear and side extensions so ripping ply is safe & controlled--but it's still a ***** handling 3/4 MDF alone.

BUT

I don't do much in 4x8 so my Dewalt track saw & 110" guide has only been used a couple times since bought.

I've seen posts on a woodworking forum from guys who do a lot of cabinet jobs and work alone who would give up their tablesaw before their track saw.

 

[mslim]

<snip>I have owned numerous ligher weight consumer grade saws. None of them will do the precise stuff that I rely on my Unisaw to do. So, that's the tradeoff: The table saw is much more capable, but you have to have a good one.

The panel saw will rip large sheets easily. It won't do so with a lot of precision. The panel saw takes up a lot of wall space.

No doubt Dave the Unisaw is the best tool for this application. I don't have room for one in my garage. I have used the panel saw at Home Depot to precut panel goods. I was talking about the comparatively new track saws with a plunge saw coupled with an extruded aluminum guide track.

 

[Max]

Back when I had a contractor’s saw (have a 3 HP Unisaw now ) I used an aluminum saw guide for my circular saw. This wasn’t just bar stock, it was a guide built for the task so it was straight and didn’t deflect. It was not expensive, and I was able to get accurate and clean cuts.

It’s critical that you have a good blade of the right type on your saw. If you have this, then it’s straightforward to follow the guide and get a good cut. The only advantage of a dedicated saw is that it forces ypu to follow the track, but with a little practice I think you’ll like this much cheaper option. Note you’ll need a good blade for the track saw anyway to get a good cut...

Max

PS. A shoutout to ssdave who gave you some very good observations...

 

[Sal Bandini]

I own the 4100 with the extensions and would never consider ripping entire 4 x 8 sheet goods on it. Honestly, you should be able to rip down sheet goods with a good straightedge and saw. A "straight" 1 x 2 is not suitable. You need a wider and more accurate edge to begin with. At the very least, rip the pieces a little oversize and then finish on the table saw. That will be more manageable.

 

[Chucktin]

I bought a 2 piece aluminum guide (96"+) bar from HD. I think the brand name is Empire (?). Since I only do an occasional rip that long it's "good enough". I'll be buying 3 - 4 4x8 plywood shortly and my trade will go where they can rip it down to 24" for me.

 

[Toolfool]

Build yourself a circular saw guide : https://www.bing.com/videos/search?...44CD9926DF6B67040D6944CD9926DF6B&&FORM=VRDGAR

 

[Damon L.]

Build yourself a circular saw guide : https://www.bing.com/videos/search?...44CD9926DF6B67040D6944CD9926DF6B&&FORM=VRDGAR

This. I built one, and break down sheet goods with that rather than on my Unisaw. Trying to feed 4x8 anything on the uni is a kickback waiting to happen (I do not have outfeed/extended side tables for mine yet).

 

[jonshonda]

Just build yourself a track out of 1/4" and 3/4" plywood. A few youtube videos show you how to do it. I did and it works well for me.

 

[Prospecter]

As others have stated. I have 4 circular saw guides (1', 3', 5', 8') that I made out of scrap ply. I also have an older General tablesaw that works great. However, for breaking down unwieldy material, I use the circular saw guides. They are dead accurate, and much easier to manage. Free was a nice price for the guides. Older Unisaws, and equivalent around me range from $300 to $1000, but $500 shows up frequently. I also treated myself to a new circular saw with a brake. Did not need to, but I was making the guides, and the new saw is a pleasure to use. (Dewalt replacing Skilsaw consumber grade.)

 

[osumet]

Grizzly makes a track saw that’s less expensive than the brands you’ve mentioned. I’ve been wanting a track saw for years. I tried using a standard circular saw and a straight edge but the cut was poor. The problem with a standard circular saw is that the bases aren’t rigidly secured to the saw. All of the saws I looked at in the store had bases that would still flex or wobble at the hinge points even when locked. This issue aside, it can be a good way to roughly break down large sheet goods so that they can be handled much more easily at a contractor/cabinet saw.

 

[TLCObsession]

Track saw is really nice to have when working in the field. I do some remodeling and its a great tool for site building cabinets or cutting things like counter tops. I use it to break down sheet goods before I use my table saw.

 

[rrich1]

If you are using it to break down plywood a track saw is phenomenal. I would use a track saw over a job site saw any day of the week. With a nice 90 degree attachment you will get consistently straight cuts. The only thing is repeatable cut widths.

I have the Makita cordless and love it. Bosch is coming out with a cordless version later this year. They already came out with a corded version. Not sure where you live but Menards masterforce brand now has a track saw for pretty cheap. You can buy smaller tracks and hook them together for longer cuts but it isn't as nice as a longer rail.

Other options for saws are DeWalt, grizzly, wen, triton, and of course festool. Check kreg out as well as they just announced a track saw system of there own earlier this month. Triton would be my cheaper pick of those options.

Makita, triton, festool all use the same rails so interchanging them if found for a cheaper price is ok.

A circular saw with a guide rail works great but the cut isn't nearly as nice as a dedicated track saw.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

[mautotech]

I've got the dewalt flexvolt tracksaw and love it.
I bought it to do lots of precision angular cuts on 4x8 plywood when I raised the roof on my garage.
I tried a circular saw and straight edge, which worked okay but was a pain in the ***. The track saw worked awesome and made it easy.

 

[Zewnten]

Another vote for a track saw or upgrading your saw guides.

 

[bugnut]

I picked up the Kreg 48" and put it on an old Craftsman saw, I like it but have only made a dozen or so cuts. All sheet stock I get rough cut on the panel saw at HD, makes transportation and handling easier also. I had/have a homemade edge guide but not nearly close enough for me.

 

[manwithtools]

There is a big difference between a track saw and a circular saw with a homemade or aftermarket guide. The track saw will plunge, has anti-kickback features, a riving knife and an anti-splinter system built in. Most are variable speed and have more precise arbor bearings than a circular saw. Dust collection is better than all but the most sophisticated (expensive) table saw setups.

Until one has used a track saw system, it's really hard to understand their versatility. Add a router to one and you can do nearly everything a table saw can. I've had everything from 5 hp cabinet saws to portable table saws. I now own the Dewalt and Festool track saws, have yet to use the Festool, but l expect not to be disappointed in it.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I don't know how any non-professional can justify the cost of purpose built track saw like a Fein. IMHO, they are RIDICULOUSLY over priced.

There are multiple "add-on" track saw "like" attachments for circular saw. Sure the are missing the features manwtithtools, but you can buy 2 or 3 or more saws for what Fein wants. Take the money you save and buy a battery operated "panel" saw, something <7". Buy a decent carbide blade. You will be amazed how handy these are.

Breakdown 4x8 sized sheet goods, with a table saw is difficult without in-feed, out-feed and side tables.

For a DIYer, have your 4x8 panels cut down at the yard. I know they don't guarantee their cuts to be closer than 1/4"-1/2" but then you can use a table saw to cut them for width. If you don't have a "panel cutter" MAKE ONE ! The best tool for cross cutting on a table saw.

 

[Ryan]

I need both... I use the track saw to break down full sheets and the table saw to cut stuff to final dimensions.

The table saw could be used for both, but I'm too scared of my table saw to use it that way. A 4x8 sheet of baltic birch is heavy and awkward to hold. I just can't see myself running a full sheet through the table saw.

I guess a track saw could be used for both too... you would just have to be real patient - measure twice, cut once type of deal.

 

[RKA]

I love my track saw and wouldn't be without it. It only requires the footprint of piece you are cutting down. Lay down some foam board so the blade stays encapsulated during the cut and dust collection if phenomenal with zero tear out. I do have some aftermarket bits that allow you to set the track at dead 90 and allow you to set the track for repeatable rips and crosscuts. These accessories are usually marketed to the Festool crowd (google TSO Products), but they are compatible with Makita tracks, so that would be my recommendation if you're primarily dealing with sheet goods. These accessories do add to the cost, but if you want to get things done quickly and precisely, it may be worth it. For smaller parts and pieces (rips or crosscuts less than ~7"), it's fussy because you always need to support the length and width of the track which can be awkward. So I would still want a table saw for ease of set up in those instances. But for larger pieces you need adequate space for infeed and outfeed and a 4x8 sheet requires support and care to do safely. Obviously the table saw is useful for so many other things as well. Most would be hard pressed to give up their table saw unless space considerations didn't allow for one anymore.

You have to look at the type of work you'll be doing and decide which tool fits better if you can only have one. There is overlap between the tools, but each has very particular applications where it excels.

 

[ez-duzit]

I paid $350 for my Festool track saw kit on c/l. Way worth it.

 

[todd_fuller]

There is a big difference between a track saw and a circular saw with a homemade or aftermarket guide. The track saw will plunge, has anti-kickback features, a riving knife and an anti-splinter system built in. Most are variable speed and have more precise arbor bearings than a circular saw.

Until one has used a track saw system, it's really hard to understand their versatility. Add a router to one and you can do nearly everything a table saw can. I've had everything from 5 hp cabinet saws to portable table saws. I now own the Dewalt and Festool track saws, have yet to use the Festool, but l expect not to be disappointed in it.

Can't agree more here. I have a track saw + a Bosch 4100 with a Rousseau table and wings. I bought the track saw a couple years later. I wish I spent the money on the track saw rather than the Rousseau table.

I personally prefer the track saw where it makes sense. I feel it's a lot safer. No fence to pinch the wood against the blade. If there was a kick back, the wood isn't going flying and the saw will retract back.

The few times I pull out the Bosch is when the stock is thinner or smaller.

From what you're saying you want to do... track saw is a good option. You don't need to drink the Festool kool-aid either. Makita is an excellent option.

To illustrate:
Table saw for this:

Track saw for this:

 

[guy48065]

I don't know if the cheaper versions all have guides with the same great qualities. I can't stress enough how awesome it is to set the guide down on 2 little pencil lines at the ACTUAL cut line, start the saw, plunge thru the panel & push it to the other end. Done. No clamps. No tape needed to prevent thin veneer from splintering. No scoring the line with a utility knife & straight edge first.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I need both... I use the track saw to break down full sheets and the table saw to cut stuff to final dimensions.

The table saw could be used for both, but I'm too scared of my table saw to use it that way. A 4x8 sheet of baltic birch is heavy and awkward to hold. I just can't see myself running a full sheet through the table saw.

I guess a track saw could be used for both too... you would just have to be real patient - measure twice, cut once type of deal.

You are using both tools for the purpose they were designed for. I still say, have your lumber yard cut down your panels to "close" to final dimension and then do the finish cut on a table saw.

 

[Voi]

Track saw for this:

Todd, what carcass material and hinge did you use for the murphy bed?

And what joinery did you use for this? I'm not seeing pocket holes or rabbets.

 

[Jim_No_Garage]

Track saws and table saws each have their own "sweet spots". The dreaded radial arm saw has a specialty also - but lets not get distracted.

The first major project I did a few years ago was to build bookcases in a basement office. Due to the room configuration we couldn't use off the shelf cases.

I bought a bunch of 3/4" oak veneer plywood and 3 sheet of 1/2" oak ply for the backs. I cut and built a 8' long "guide rail" from one of the 1/2" sheets and some aluminum angle. I used that to make the rest of the cuts on the project.

I subsequently bought a table saw but don't have room for infeed and outfeed tables to handle sheet goods so 99% of my sheet good work is done with my trusty cutting guide.

I might pop for a true "track saw" down the road but haven't yet. I do plan to upgrade my table saw in the future but still see having a track saw.

Cheers

Jim

 

[rharman]

I rarely need to rip the long dimension of a 4x8. For the 4' width, I use a straight clamp like the Bora.

I have a 2-piece extruded straightedge I bought a jillion years ago if I do need to rip the long dimension. Similar to the Empire from Home Depot. It's very light so I do put in a backer perpendicular to it at the half-way point when I use it. Otherwise, it has just enough flex to cause problems.

A track saw has been on my radar for a while just for the speed/convenience. Just can't bring myself to pull the trigger for a good one (not Festool - could never justify that).

 

[todd_fuller]

Todd, what carcass material and hinge did you use for the murphy bed?

This was a Rockler kit and being a n00b at the time, I just followed the directions. In hindsight, I'd do a lot differently. Regardless, this was 3/4" hardwood plywood with some oak internals. Pivot is all steel. It's a beast.

And what joinery did you use for this? I'm not seeing pocket holes or rabbets.

Boxes use 4mm dominos in 1/2 prefinished plywood. I'd also do these a little differently, but mainly because the prefinished plywood is terrible, top veneers are very thin. Domiplate made this cake BTW.

 

[Trapps]

Looks like a new option to Festool on the horizon; based on price at least which is waaaaay up there:

https://www.toolnut.com/power-tools...-225l-6-1-2-track-saw-with-l-boxx-4-case.html

I have been using the Empire solution for a few years, but this thread has me look at al track saw options.

http://www.empirelevel.com/straight-edges.php

 

[Voi]

This was a Rockler kit and being a n00b at the time, I just followed the directions. In hindsight, I'd do a lot differently. Regardless, this was 3/4" hardwood plywood with some oak internals. Pivot is all steel. It's a beast.

Thanks for the reply. We have a pretty nice cherry Murphy bed at our cabin that we really like & I think I want to make a much more simple one for our guest/exercise room. Leaning towards using the Menards "Baltic Birch" ply & leaving edges exposed.

I didn't get my hinge for the cabin bed from Rocker but it might be the same exact product.

 

[racingtadpole]

You are using both tools for the purpose they were designed for. I still say, have your lumber yard cut down your panels to "close" to final dimension and then do the finish cut on a table saw.

My timber supplier charges $5 a cut an has a stated tolerance of +/- 10mm for cutting sheet.

 

[My Old Tools]

Just buy an 8' steel stud, plenty straight for good rips. Second on buying a good blade. Even with my PM66, throwing around 4x8 sheets isn't much fun.